[ZSamuels28]

  As seen on here: http://www.razerzone.com/gaming-audio/razer-kraken-pro
 
The adaptor to the splitter, is the same size as all other normals.
 
It says "Connector: Analog 3.5 mm combined jack (headphone and mic) i assume the splitter is same size as the one i have. Is there any effective ways to tighten it fast?

Also, isnt there any solutions which isnt techflex which will just be a little bigger than the width of the cable? I'll try contacting Razer Support to know the width.

There are various sizes of adapters,

is obviously smaller than

 

[nimblue123]

  There are various sizes of adapters,

is obviously smaller than

http://www.razerzone.com/gaming-accessories/audio-mic-splitter-adapter-for-the-razer-electra

Check this, and scroll down to gallery. That's the ones i have.

 

[ZSamuels28]

  http://www.razerzone.com/gaming-accessories/audio-mic-splitter-adapter-for-the-razer-electra

Check this, and scroll down to gallery. That's the ones i have.

I don't know how wide that is... You'd have to measure it.

 

[nimblue123]

  I don't know how wide that is... You'd have to measure it.

I contacted Razer Support for help. Do you have reddit or skype or somewhere we can chat?

 

[ZSamuels28]

You can just message me on here, I check head-fi pretty frequently. You should just buy a caliper to measure it.

 

[Stillhart]

Hey folks, 
 
I've completed two headphone cables so far and I'm feeling pretty proud of myself.  Here are some lessons learned:
 

1. The cable part of the cable is not expensive.  If you are planning on individually sleeving the wires inside the cable anyhow, don't waste your time buying Mogami/Canare/etc.  Just buy the wire.  OMG, wish I'd done that.  Stripping the wires out of the cable takes almost as much effort as sleeving them.
2. Wear a glove on one hand when sleeving the cables, unless you have guitar-player calluses.
3. Panavise > Helping Hands but Panavise + Helping Hands > all
4. 95# and 275# paracord both work fine on 26 AWD wires, but 275 felt slightly easier to sleeve and didn't "shrink" as much as the 95
5. Twist the wires a bit while sleeving to inch it on easier
6. Test your TRS connectors to make sure they're connected normally.  The Neutrik ones I used last time were not pinned out the same way as the diagram I was looking at and I had to desolder and resolder correctly when I tested afterwards.

 
So yeah, I'm thinking about putting together a new cable for myself that's a bit longer.  My first one came out much shorter than I'd planned (due to nooby mistakes here and there).  I'm considering getting some higher end cable this time.  I know most folks in here aren't cable believers, and I'm right there with you.  But what better way to see for myself than making one (rather than spending stupid cash on one)?  
 
So with a healthy dose of skepticism, what's the next step up from Canare?  OFC copper?  Silver coated copper?  Unicorn copper?  Suggestions?
 
Question 2:  Mike from Woo Audio proved to me without a doubt that a $500 USB cable (Nordost Heimdall 2) makes a difference.  Anyone have any ideas on how I can make my own cable at that level?  Or does it require some crazy shielding techniques or something?

 

[Kamakahah]

Hey folks, 

I've completed two headphone cables so far and I'm feeling pretty proud of myself.  Here are some lessons learned:

• The cable part of the cable is not expensive.  If you are planning on individually sleeving the wires inside the cable anyhow, don't waste your time buying Mogami/Canare/etc.  Just buy the wire.  OMG, wish I'd done that.  Stripping the wires out of the cable takes almost as much effort as sleeving them.
• Wear a glove on one hand when sleeving the cables, unless you have guitar-player calluses.
• Panavise > Helping Hands but Panavise + Helping Hands > all
• 95# and 275# paracord both work fine on 26 AWD wires, but 275 felt slightly easier to sleeve and didn't "shrink" as much as the 95
• Twist the wires a bit while sleeving to inch it on easier
• Test your TRS connectors to make sure they're connected normally.  The Neutrik ones I used last time were not pinned out the same way as the diagram I was looking at and I had to desolder and resolder correctly when I tested afterwards.

So yeah, I'm thinking about putting together a new cable for myself that's a bit longer.  My first one came out much shorter than I'd planned (due to nooby mistakes here and there).  I'm considering getting some higher end cable this time.  I know most folks in here aren't cable believers, and I'm right there with you.  But what better way to see for myself than making one (rather than spending stupid cash on one)?  

So with a healthy dose of skepticism, what's the next step up from Canare?  OFC copper?  Silver coated copper?  Unicorn copper?  Suggestions?

Question 2:  Mike from Woo Audio proved to me without a doubt that a $500 USB cable (Nordost Heimdall 2) makes a difference.  Anyone have any ideas on how I can make my own cable at that level?  Or does it require some crazy shielding techniques or something?

1. I think you'd appreciate the wire from either DoubleHelixCables or Plussound audio. You'll find the softness and flexibility of the wire a very nice step up from the Canare. So much so that you might consider keeping it bare to appreciate its beauty.

I don't recommend the Litz wire as it doesn't matter for headphones and will only cause you added time and frustration for soldering, but feel free to give it a whirl. Every experience adds something, right?

Maybe play with a spc or pure silver to satiate your curiosity. Just know that pure silver gets real expensive very fast. Material enough for a four foot cable can run you up to $150-180 easily. Suddenly that Canare will seem like a steal at less than $3 for enough wire to make that four food cable.

Toxic cables is another option with lots of good DIY options available if you don't mind waiting for shipping from the UK.

2. Making a USB cable isn't hard at all, but I couldn't tell you what voodoo they implemented in theirs to achieve what you heard. Maybe if you ask them nicely they'll explain? Lol.

 

[PETEREK]

1. I think you'd appreciate the wire from either DoubleHelixCables or Plussound audio. You'll find the softness and flexibility of the wire a very nice step up from the Canare. So much so that you might consider keeping it bare to appreciate its beauty.

I don't recommend the Litz wire as it doesn't matter for headphones and will only cause you added time and frustration for soldering, but feel free to give it a whirl. Every experience adds something, right?

Maybe play with a spc or pure silver to satiate your curiosity. Just know that pure silver gets real expensive very fast. Material enough for a four foot cable can run you up to $150-180 easily. Suddenly that Canare will seem like a steal at less than $3 for enough wire to make that four food cable.

Toxic cables is another option with lots of good DIY options available if you don't mind waiting for shipping from the UK.

I don't find PlusSound's wire to be flexible at all compared to DHC. Their insulation is just too hard.

 

[Kamakahah]

I don't find PlusSound's wire to be flexible at all compared to DHC. Their insulation is just too hard.

.

I disagree. I suppose it depends on which wire you ordered. Not sure if they all use the same insulation.
The one I use from Plussound is currently out of stock and is extremely soft to the point that I need to alter my soldering technique for it.

I've had them side at a meet for testing,but again it may vary from wire type to wire type.

 

[Stillhart]

Yeah, looking over the options out there, silver seems to be at least $100 per 6'.  I don't think I'm willing to spend that much on an experiment unless I already have a buyer lined up afterwards, lol.  SPC seems to be about half that and OCC copper seems to be about the same.  I need to find the forums where cable believers live and figure out what the difference are supposed to be.  I recall reading that silver is supposed to be brighter?
 
Anyone have any idea what makes a $500 USB cable work?  Shielding between power and data lines or something?

 

[ThurstonX]

  Hey folks, 
 
I've completed two headphone cables so far and I'm feeling pretty proud of myself.  Here are some lessons learned:
 

1. The cable part of the cable is not expensive.  If you are planning on individually sleeving the wires inside the cable anyhow, don't waste your time buying Mogami/Canare/etc.  Just buy the wire.  OMG, wish I'd done that.  Stripping the wires out of the cable takes almost as much effort as sleeving them.
2. Wear a glove on one hand when sleeving the cables, unless you have guitar-player calluses.
3. Panavise > Helping Hands but Panavise + Helping Hands > all
4. 95# and 275# paracord both work fine on 26 AWD wires, but 275 felt slightly easier to sleeve and didn't "shrink" as much as the 95
5. Twist the wires a bit while sleeving to inch it on easier
6. Test your TRS connectors to make sure they're connected normally.  The Neutrik ones I used last time were not pinned out the same way as the diagram I was looking at and I had to desolder and resolder correctly when I tested afterwards.

 
So yeah, I'm thinking about putting together a new cable for myself that's a bit longer.  My first one came out much shorter than I'd planned (due to nooby mistakes here and there).  I'm considering getting some higher end cable this time.  I know most folks in here aren't cable believers, and I'm right there with you.  But what better way to see for myself than making one (rather than spending stupid cash on one)?  
 
So with a healthy dose of skepticism, what's the next step up from Canare?  OFC copper?  Silver coated copper?  Unicorn copper?  Suggestions?
 
Question 2:  Mike from Woo Audio proved to me without a doubt that a $500 USB cable (Nordost Heimdall 2) makes a difference.  Anyone have any ideas on how I can make my own cable at that level?  Or does it require some crazy shielding techniques or something?

 
Congrats, and kudos for wanting to keep improving.
 
I'll agree that the Litz wire adds a bit more to the process, as most (all?) has individually coated wires in each strand.  That means removing (burning or melting off) said coating.  I did it on multiple cables, and it's not that hard.  Sonically it's fine (I'd say great, but whatever), at least on par with the Mogami I've used.  Three of my four main cans use cables built on it, as do my interconnects in my Stack o' Schiit.  For headphone cables its best feature is being far more supple than Mogami.  My cables aren't stiff in the slightest and just float there.  For that reason alone I love it.  I used 100/46 sleeved in 95 lbs paracord from Paracord Planet.  A higher strand count and gauge like 144/44 would probably be great, and 275 lbs paracord might be better.  I did 4-strand braids for the HP cables.
 
Oh yeah, and the 100' spool was far less expensive than any boutique cable I've found.

 

[Stillhart]

   
Congrats, and kudos for wanting to keep improving.
 
I'll agree that the Litz wire adds a bit more to the process, as most (all?) has individually coated wires in each strand.  That means removing (burning or melting off) said coating.  I did it on multiple cables, and it's not that hard.  Sonically it's fine (I'd say great, but whatever), at least on par with the Mogami I've used.  Three of my four main cans use cables built on it, as do my interconnects in my Stack o' Schiit.  For headphone cables its best feature is being far more supple than Mogami.  My cables aren't stiff in the slightest and just float there.  For that reason alone I love it.  I used 100/46 sleeved in 95 lbs paracord from Paracord Planet.  A higher strand count and gauge like 144/44 would probably be great, and 275 lbs paracord might be better.  I did 4-strand braids for the HP cables.
 
Oh yeah, and the 100' spool was far less expensive than any boutique cable I've found.

 
Did you use a solder pot for the litz or some other technique?  

 

[ThurstonX]

 
Did you use a solder pot for the litz or some other technique?  

 
I just used a really hot iron and a ball of solder, per @TrollDragon's initial posts in this thread.  Basically it's just working the strands through the ball for 30 seconds or so.  IIRC, he said not to touch the strands with the tip, but...  I augmented his process by brushing the tip over the wires, which were slightly fanned out; turning the fan from side to side until the gunk (coating) seemed to be off.  After doing both ends I tested with a DMM.  If the signal didn't seem clean or optimal, I brushed again.  A PITA, but it worked every time.  If I needed more cables, I would have ordered the 144/44 (or whatever is near that gauge) in a heartbeat.
 
If you want the link to the seller, I'll try to find it, but it's linked in this thread from a few months ago.

 

[teamrushpntball]

So I realized I screwed up my braid half way through my cable, any downside to unwinding it and fixing the error? Litz wire individually sleeved in 275 paracord.

 

[ZSamuels28]

So I realized I screwed up my braid half way through my cable, any downside to unwinding it and fixing the error? Litz wire individually sleeved in 275 paracord.

Yeah, time lol. I don't think unbraiding it and braiding it again will cause any issues especially since it is in paracord.