[damascato]

Thanks all!

 

[damascato]

Hey guys,

One more question: what about the Abyss Diana plugs? They look like 2.5 or 3.5mm to me…

 

[Mrvoye]

Hey everyone,

Maybe not the best thread to post the question in, but I guess it is cable related and better than making another one.

I've had a bit of a "snap" with my ESS 422h (which I love dearly), snap being the headphone band which is stainless steel (but insides held in place with cheap film plastic).
I don't think anyone could repair this to original state and to be fair I really don't see the point of doing so as they are the most uncomfortable thing in existence.

As I'll be making a DIY project out of them, in terms of preparation as I have 0 experience, need to understand a few things:
These are single line headphones with deattachable cable, with second line going through the destroyed headband.
If i remove that one (and plug the hole), can I just add a 3.5mm/2.5mm plug to the other cup and disconnect the cables leading out from the first one?
Will it affect the headphone performance in any way? (probably silly, but I was thinking about potential stored energy in what ever is sending the signal to the other one)
Or, will the other cup (converted to a full line), have more power than the one with the splitter?

I'd appreciate any suggestions as to how to go about it.


Thanks!

 

[TrollDragon]

Hey everyone,

Maybe not the best thread to post the question in, but I guess it is cable related and better than making another one.

I've had a bit of a "snap" with my ESS 422h (which I love dearly), snap being the headphone band which is stainless steel (but insides held in place with cheap film plastic).
I don't think anyone could repair this to original state and to be fair I really don't see the point of doing so as they are the most uncomfortable thing in existence.

As I'll be making a DIY project out of them, in terms of preparation as I have 0 experience, need to understand a few things:
These are single line headphones with deattachable cable, with second line going through the destroyed headband.
If i remove that one (and plug the hole), can I just add a 3.5mm/2.5mm plug to the other cup and disconnect the cables leading out from the first one?
Will it affect the headphone performance in any way? (probably silly, but I was thinking about potential stored energy in what ever is sending the signal to the other one)
Or, will the other cup (converted to a full line), have more power than the one with the splitter?

I'd appreciate any suggestions as to how to go about it.


Thanks!

I really don't understand what you are trying to achieve?

 

[Mrvoye]

I really don't understand what you are trying to achieve?

I tend to be the worst explainer in the room.

I want to:

1) Change the entire headband and cup holders
2) Convert them to dual line de-attachable cables from their current state which is single line

 

[TrollDragon]

I tend to be the worst explainer in the room.

I want to:

1) Change the entire headband and cup holders
2) Convert them to dual line de-attachable cables from their current state which is single line

I don't know anything about changing the headband or yokes, but you can easily convert them over to dual entry. I use 4 pin tiny XLR sockets on my conversions if there is room in the cup for them as most of my cables are tiny XLR. Otherwise I use 3.5mm TRS sockets if space is an issue.

If using tiny XLR wire the cups up to the Audeze standard, if using 3.5mm TRS wire them so the Tip is + and the Sleeve is -. You can bridge the Ring and Sleeve terminals together in case your cable uses Ring instead of Sleeve for the - connection.

 

[damascato]

Hey guys,

One more question: what about the Abyss Diana plugs? They look like 2.5 or 3.5mm to me…

Anyone?

 

[chezzer]

Anyone?

The stock cable uses 2.5mm locking connectors but any 2.5mm will be fine, don't use the overly fat ones to be on the safe side

 

[Chuck Dee]

Duplicated post. Sorry

 

[Chuck Dee]

Made another new cable with new tools, the Cardas solder is great! And using paracord made the cable look so much better.

Love that red vine colour.


Have you thought about trading that Hakko in for a KSGER T12? Has been a gamechanger for me...

 

[DecentLevi]

Hey I'm wondering if anyone here knows about premium resistors and which ones may reduce the volume somewhat on a headphone cable? I've got an amp that's emitting a low-freq. hum and largely ruining my experience. I've already tried everything in the book and even a few new tricks, but to no avail. for grounding, clean power, shielding, etc.

I'm looking for about a 10-20% volume reduction as to allow on the music to pass through, using a louder volume on the amp. The concept that embedded resistors would yield a more pure signal than an actual potentiometer in the path, and I would experiment with a few to see which works best. But I'm not sure which resistance value would be needed, which brand is the most premium reference sound, and about the schematics (which pins or if I need 2 or 4). It's for a Neutrik 4-pin balanced connection.

Probably I would need audiophile quality solder also?

 

[TrollDragon]

Fixing the volume output with resistors won't get rid of hum... You need to source out the cause of the hum and correct that problem.

AudioFool grade solder is just a way for you to part with more money for solder...

 

[damascato]

Love that red vine colour.


Have you thought about trading that Hakko in for a KSGER T12? Has been a gamechanger for me...

From what POV mate?

 

[-Hodor-]

Have you thought about trading that Hakko in for a KSGER T12? Has been a gamechanger for me...

Ersa all the way

 

[Darksoul]

Has anyone here tried making a custom cable for the E-MU Teak? I heard the wiring on the 2.5mm end is diferent.