Just finished a cable for my Ether Cs. It's just 1/8" TRS connection. I could not get para-cord over the core cable which is a Gotham 11002 so I left it plain. The Y is made from a piece of
heavy duty 4:1 adhesive heat shrink I got a Home Depot. When I shrunk it down I pressed in the middle with needle nose pliers to form the "wire pants". It's a bit thick and could use some rounding on the edges, but it's sturdy. Used red para-cord for right, white for left. The Hirose connectors were not as bad as I had thought they would be. I used the lengths in the PDF that says how long to strip the wire (2mm) and how far back the crimp should be. The crimp distance wound up being a non-issue as it did not grip the wires at all. I'm a bit concerned with the lack of strain relief on these, still working out how to fix that. One positive is the para-cord is stretched pretty tight now and if you do pull on the cables, the para-cord takes the most of it. The crimps still don't grip the para-cord very well. I'm considering adding some JB Weld to attach the para-cord to the crimp. and or crimp to the wires, not sure. Soldering was actually much easier than I thought. Need a magnifying glass for my old eyes, but other wise it was easy. Stripped 2mm off the end of the wire, fluxed, tinned. Setup the third hands to hold the wire onto the solder well, added flux, cleaned my soldering iron tip, added a drop of solder, touched to the connection, and done. I wired the left and right backwards so I had to go back to the TRS and re-solder. Worked out OK just annoying. One thing I could not get was a twist on the leads from the Y to the headphones. The inner conductors just would not stay twisted.
I made this for use with my DX90 on my desk while at work. I'm considering another like this with a right angle TRS and stripping the 11002 inner conductors out of the outer insulation and also cut it shorter by about 1 to 2 feet. I should be able to sleeve it all with para-cord doing it this way. It will be more flexible and easier for use with my DX90 in my shirt pocket.
PDF on assembling the Hirose connections, see page 18: http://www.hirose.co.jp/cataloge_hp/ed_HR10_20140305.pdf
Anyone have a lead on the crimpers for these things?
Been busy cable making for the Nashville headfi meet.
The first one is the same cable I made before for my Ether C, just rebuilt them. I removed the Gotham cable's insulation and shielding and put some orange para-cord over it, because go Vols and all that. Then I put a female version of the connector that Dan uses on it. The objective is to make them modular. This one is about 4 feet long.
Next is the same thing, but about 6 feet long using Mogami W2534 instead of the Gotham cable. I like the Mogami cable better, it works very well with Dan's connectors with all 4 conductors and the brass ring provides a good mechanical connection. On the left and right ends with only 2 wires things are not so rosy. But a glad happenstance showed me that if you let one end of that brass crimp ring go under the other, you get a good mechanical connection for strain relieve and it's easier to get to fit into the connector. I may actually go back to the 4 foot version and do this.
Third is an extension cable, about 6 feet long. Notice the all silver end? I tried this version for giggles. It works pretty good actually with Mogami W2534 and provides a good mechanical connection. It did put some scores in the para-cord. I may get a burr up somewhere and replace it with the "standard" version, dunno. The hardest part of these connectors is that infernal brass crimp ring for which I have no crimper. So I do the best I can with pliers but I wind up having to file them down to get them to fit, works out in the end.
Last are my modular connectors. 4 pin XLR balanced, 1/4" TRS, 2.5mm TRRS (I hope I can find a right angle version I like one day.), and last 3.5mm TRS right angle.
I have plans for a 3.5mm TRS straight using a ViaBlue that is on it's way.
Anywho, enjoy the cable porn (for what it is) and I hope to see you in Nashville!
The pin numbers are on the back/inside of the connector.....
They are extremely small, I doubt any picture I take will show you this. You can disassemble the cables without damaging them. Pull back the rubber boot to expose the .05" set screw, unscrew this enough that the brass crimp ring inside will turn in the connector freely (it may come all the way out, just be careful that little sucker is really small), connect the cable to the ear-cup so that the internal parts will rotate in relation to the outer shell, turn the part of the connector where you loosened the set screw in a counter clockwise direction. Once free, you can pull the internal part off of the ear-cup with minimal force. Reverse to reassemble.
Part numbers are like this:
HR10 is the type of connector. Hirose something or other.
A (or lack of an A) is how it grips the cable, A is a set screw and a brass crimp ring. No A is a sort of ferrule. This version is usually more expensive and I find harder to deal with even without a crimp tool for that brass crimp ring. The ferrule has what behave like teeth and they snag on the cable sleeving making tightening the assembly a pain in the rear. The brass crimp ring is a pain to get attached, but once you get it on the cable and file it down so that it passes through the outer shell, it's much easier to deal with. I take a pair of pliers and begin folding the ends making it as round as I can, then I take a small file and smooth off any sharp edges on the teeth and any high points until it fits into the shell freely and spins. Takes about 15 minutes the first time and gets easier as you do more.
7 no idea
J or P is Jack or Plug.
4 is number of poles or wires it carries, they make these things up to 12 or 24 pins.
S or P is Sockets (female) or Pins (male) on the internal part.
(73) sometimes you see this as part of the part number, sometimes you don't, no idea what it means.
Below is what you would want if you are going to make a modular cable system like I did. I recommend using Dan's connector (HR10A-7P-4P(73)) on the adapters and the other one on the end of the headphone cable because it's cheap to order them from Dan, the other one is a pain to find without paying through the nose. There is some seller on eBay from France that usually has them (watch me jinx myself) and he's got the best price I've found. In fact, I think I'll go order a pair now.
What you have in the eBay link is what Dan uses to connect to the ear-cups. Be sure to check Dan's site he sells these cheap. Also, that's the guy I've ordered mine from in the past, good seller.
Dan's part on DigiKey.
HR10A-7P-4P(73)
set screw, plug, 4 poles, pins (male)
It's counterpart, HR10A-7J-4S(73)
set screw, jack, 4 poles, sockets (female)
Ok that helps a bit. I think I know what to expect, do you off hand remember what pins + - they are for the Ether? I can search for Dan's comment but if you know it might be easier to find out from you
Thanks for the assist!
Found my notebook. If you don't have one, get one, keep it handy with drawings of this stuff, trust me, it helps.
And if you wire it wrong, de-solder it do it again. Doesn't make you a bad person.
Pinouts:
With the notch on the connector on top from the back the order is:
4 1
3 2
Mad Dog and also if you want to make a modular cable, looking at the connector from the solder cup end:
Pin 1 = L+
Pin 2 = L-
Pin 3 = R+
Pin 4 = R-
Right connector:
Pin 1 = R+
Pin 2 = R-
Pins 3 and 4 are not used.
Left connector:
Pin 1 = L+
Pin 2 = L-
Pins 3 and 4 are not used.
2.5mm TRRS (what A&K uses):
Tip = R-
Ring 1 = R+
Ring 2 = L+
Sleeve = L-
TRS (3.5mm or 6.whaevermm, er 1/8" or 1/4"):
Tip = L
Ring = R
Sleeve = Ground
Female XLR:
Pin 1 = L+
Pint 2 = L-
Pin 3 = R+
Pin 4 = R-
With the pins oriented on the bottom from the back (I think!):
4 1
3 2
Male XLR:
Pin 1 = L+
Pint 2 = L-
Pin 3 = R+
Pin 4 = R-
With the pins oriented on the bottom from the back (I know):
4 1
3 2
With the pins oriented on the bottom from the front:
1 4
2 3
. I don't do power conditioner as it only color up the sound over-all. I want the pure sound quality. So I make the best power cables, and replace the chassis male connector to make sure I got the best signals and voltage integrity
The Toxic Silver Poison wire came earlier this week, and tonight I finished her up. It's lovely stuff. Very easy to work with.
Compared to OCC copper, this is certainly brighter, with better treble definition, bringing out the LCD-2's details more. My tastes run towards a warmer signature, so this sounded funny to me ears at first. But it's growing on me.
