[FraGGleR]

Quote:

thats with the discount
 
 
[size=12.800000190734863px] [size=12.800000190734863px]You saved [size=12.800000190734863px]$20.97[/size] on shipping from 5staredc.[/size][size=12.800000190734863px]

[size=12.800000190734863px]- $20.97[/size]​

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[size=12.800000190734863px] [size=12.800000190734863px]

[size=12.800000190734863px] [size=12.800000190734863px] Subtotal (10 items):[/size] [/size]	[size=12.800000190734863px] [size=12.800000190734863px] $9.90[/size] [/size]
[size=12.800000190734863px] [size=12.800000190734863px] [size=12.800000190734863px]Shipping to London[/size][/size] [/size]	[size=12.800000190734863px] [size=12.800000190734863px] $11.03[/size] [/size]
[size=12.800000190734863px] [size=12.800000190734863px]  [/size] [/size]
[size=12.800000190734863px] [size=medium] Total:[/size] [/size]	[size=12.800000190734863px] [size=medium] $20.93[/size] [/size]

[size=12.800000190734863px] [size=12.800000190734863px] [/size] [size=12.800000190734863px] [/size] [size=12.800000190734863px] [/size] [size=12.800000190734863px] [/size] [/size]

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oh well, after seeing your cables i cannot give up now just because of shipping lol

Oh wow.  Ok.  Well, considering how much money you are saving by doing the cables yourself not to mention the satsifaction, the extra $11 is but a pittance.
 
Please post pics when you are done!

 

[alfa147x]

Okay I have a challenge for you guys. How can I take a 3ft long USB extension cable down to less than 0.5 ft and make it look clean? I have some sleeving I want to use but I can't figure out how to get it across the the length of the cable. Any ideas?

Should I just heat shrink the joint and call it a day?

 

[FraGGleR]

Double post

 

[FraGGleR]

Quote:

That moment when youre absolutely fed up with something. Completely assembled before, no sound, took all apart got sound but forgot the shell casings. Took apart again to add shells and wire clamp broke breaking a contact I just soldered, got fixed shells on, no sound again. And I burned myself. **** me, still no sound. Think I might just have to re-order..but I dont feel like waiting 2 and a half weeks on redco again.
 

Can you take closeups of your connections so we can help troubleshoot?  I assume that you are using two blue for signal, two white for ground?  Did you check for shorts?  Do you have a multimeter that you can use to check for continuity?

 

[cssarrow]

Omgosh i love vintage audio labs.

Their carbon fiber housings are so cheap compared to other providers.
They have very nice cmc pure copper spade connectors also!

 

[tdubthatsme]

Ok I need some help. I rewiring 2 sets of headphones for portable use (ath m50 and a custom pair). A few questions:
1. Sleeving for portable use? Based on what I am reading, I either go for techflex multifilament or paracord? Everything else make mechanical noise?
1b. If paracord, what "type" (type 1, 2, 3, 4, 5) and wieght (sounds like 550 is good?)
2. Whats the difference between Mogami w2534 and 2931? Which is better? Same question for 2930 vs 2552
3. I am wiring both headphones to each ear, so I will be making a Y. Where can I buy one of those covers for the link?
4. Canare f12 connector, VALab connector, or what else in that price range?
 
Portability is number 1, and a high cost quality ratio is number 2. 
Thanks!

 

[darinmc]

Quote:

Okay I have a challenge for you guys. How can I take a 3ft long USB extension cable down to less than 0.5 ft and make it look clean? I have some sleeving I want to use but I can't figure out how to get it across the the length of the cable. Any ideas?
Should I just heat shrink the joint and call it a day?

 
Make sure you have heatshrink that can go over both ends (including the plugs), cut near one end of the termination leaving just enough to strip, solder, heatshrink/teflon/shield/teflon until it's about the size of the cable, then heatshrink both ends so both ends look the same.  Will definitely need 3:1 tubing.  If you need to buy more than 3 things and the cable isn't audio-grade (aka expensive) it probably is better to just order everything and make your own.

 

[alfa147x]

Make sure you have heatshrink that can go over both ends (including the plugs), cut near one end of the termination leaving just enough to strip, solder, heatshrink/teflon/shield/teflon until it's about the size of the cable, then heatshrink both ends so both ends look the same.  Will definitely need 3:1 tubing.  If you need to buy more than 3 things and the cable isn't audio-grade (aka expensive) it probably is better to just order everything and make your own.

Thanks. It's not meant for an audio installation. I need to remove the red wire in between my router and wifi card so it doesn't back-feed power

 

[DefQon]

Old: 1 hour job, built a similar one for a customer a month ago, after working with all the Crystal Piccolino and speaker cables, I admit  I'm getting better at this. 

 
Canare, Viablue splitter, Neutrik 6.5mm and Cardas Senn plugs.

 

 
More pictures coming soon, featuring my "Monster" power cable specially braided using special wires at 4cm thickness.

 

[darinmc]

Quote:

Thanks. It's not meant for an audio installation. I need to remove the red wire in between my router and wifi card so it doesn't back-feed power

 
Yeah I was just saying if it costs too much to patch the one you have you might as well buy a new one at the length you want or build one from scratch.

 

[kyoshiro]

Anyone know what part# on mouser makes good USB connectors/jacks

 

[cssarrow]

Anyone know where to silver wire for headphone diy? or Connectors that looks like these: http://audioengineusa.com/Store/AC-Power-Cord#.UM_5SmfNkYI
Is there one of those connectors but a grounded version? (something less expensive than the furutech)

Anyone know what part# on mouser makes good USB connectors/jacks

i got mine here : http://www.doublehelixcables.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=68&zenid=egu2fi599jvr25mqiqrch8e0n7
The gold plating is a little thicker than usual, which is nice. very easy to solder on with 22AWG and smaller. (24,26,28, etc)

 

[bavman]

Quote:

Ok I need some help. I rewiring 2 sets of headphones for portable use (ath m50 and a custom pair). A few questions:
1. Sleeving for portable use? Based on what I am reading, I either go for techflex multifilament or paracord? Everything else make mechanical noise?
1b. If paracord, what "type" (type 1, 2, 3, 4, 5) and wieght (sounds like 550 is good?)
2. Whats the difference between Mogami w2534 and 2931? Which is better? Same question for 2930 vs 2552
3. I am wiring both headphones to each ear, so I will be making a Y. Where can I buy one of those covers for the link?
4. Canare f12 connector, VALab connector, or what else in that price range?
 
Portability is number 1, and a high cost quality ratio is number 2. 
Thanks!

1. I haven't used techflex, but paracord is good on flexibility. Little mechanical noise but if you make it short enough to run from your pocket to your headphones (or whatever) you'll be okay. I've also used plastic weaved pc sleeving (the kind used to sleeve PSUs) and its a lot stiffer and is almost impossible to use because of the mechanical noise it creates. 
1b. I've used type 1 for sleeving individual wires then braiding them. If you want to sleeve a bundle of wires then use type 3 550.
2. not too sure
3. Viablue makes some really nice ones, but a little pricey, just google it for places to buy
4. The best one's I've used are the neutrik gold/black ones (granted I've never spent more than $2 on a connector) but the build quality is very good compared to most cheap connectors. They are a little small though

 

[DefQon]

You can buy 3 types of Y splitters, the Viablue's, Qable's and the standard rubber boot leg's. Or you can alternatively make your own Y splitter by heatshrink only or heatshrink over a plastic barrel or so.

 

[Toxic Cables]

I will be offering my own Y splitter at the end of this month. Here is a picture of them, although the ones that will be sold, will not have my logo on them.
They are chrome plated, polished aluminium and weigh in at a little over 7g.
     They are attached together at all 4 corners, with allen screws and nuts, which will be included. Not the screws shown in the picture below.
 
 

 
 
 
The splitters in these picture, are not plated.