DIY Cable Gallery!!
Feb 23, 2015 at 12:34 PM Post #14,476 of 16,305
Very nice! That mini-mini I have posted a page back was made with PlusSound Litz wire. That stuff demands heat to tin. A lot of it.

I'm impressed that you got the tech flex in there too, soldering must have been a huge PITA.

yeah i had to pull it apart once
i forgot the little plastic deal that keeps it
from shorting out after its all together
and it definately tests you solder skills
someone posted a few pages back to
heat up a blob of solder and set the cable end in there
to tin it kinda bubbles off the lacqer then the solder sticks
ordered some more connectors to make nicer one
lotsa snow here... gives me something to do lol
 
Feb 24, 2015 at 6:11 PM Post #14,478 of 16,305

 
DHC Nucleotide Mini - RCA
Switchcraft Mini - HGA LOK RCAs - Paracord 100
Not super stoked on how the heatshrink went at the Y split this time... and the heatshrink
going into the mini is longer than I like.. but it needed to cover some fraying paracord
 
Overall I seem to be continuing with my theme of using cable that is just way undersized
for the RCA plugs - those LOK's are heavy!  I need to adjust my cable / connector ratio
and use smaller / lighter plugs with the braided wire ... heavier plugs with larger cable.
 
Feb 24, 2015 at 6:26 PM Post #14,479 of 16,305
 
 
DHC Nucleotide Mini - RCA
Switchcraft Mini - HGA LOK RCAs - Paracord 100
Not super stoked on how the heatshrink went at the Y split this time... and the heatshrink
going into the mini is longer than I like.. but it needed to cover some fraying paracord
 
Overall I seem to be continuing with my theme of using cable that is just way undersized
for the RCA plugs - those LOK's are heavy!  I need to adjust my cable / connector ratio
and use smaller / lighter plugs with the braided wire ... heavier plugs with larger cable.

 
You might be able to fix the Y split heat shrink with some 3:1, if it'll slide over the 3.5 plug.
 
Feb 24, 2015 at 7:54 PM Post #14,481 of 16,305
  Oh word thats a great idea - i think i have some kicking around here .... somewhere

 
2:1 might work, as well.  You can judge based on where it'll end up (at the split).  I said 3:1, as you can use a wider diameter piece.  A few millimeters longer on both ends usually works out and looks good.  Good luck 
smily_headphones1.gif

 
Feb 26, 2015 at 4:24 AM Post #14,482 of 16,305
Not sure if this is the right place to ask or maybe someone can point me to a direction.. does anyone here make mmcx cables for IEMs? Or interested in making a set for a price? Not looking to spend uber dollars on a fancy one,just something to replace the one that didn't want to come out in one piece (fidue a83).

Thanks in advance!
 
Feb 26, 2015 at 4:31 AM Post #14,483 of 16,305
hey guys.
Im a very long time lurker and loved comming here to see everyones hard work with diy cable.
About 8 months ago my audeze lcd2 oem cable had a internal break which i repaired.
 
I was quite shocked at the price of a replacment. while my repair was working i decided to make my first diy cable.
 
A big thankyou to toxic cables for the 6.5mm jack and plussound for the wire both companys were great to deal with.
 
the mini xlr jack i made from a normal mini xlr and 3.5mm carbon looking jack, involved some filing down and epoxy.
hope you guys like.
 









 
Feb 26, 2015 at 5:29 AM Post #14,484 of 16,305
86omfg That's a neat little job you did with the mini xlrs. I'm impressed with the idea. Your starting with a bang. Glad you decided to join us. Looking forward to your future builds.
 
Feb 26, 2015 at 6:15 AM Post #14,485 of 16,305
thanks @Kamakahah
 
ya my shaky,fat,mechanic hands dont do too bad.
i was inspired after reading this thread and seeing everyone else's work.
not sure if i could do anything better then i did. I love the naked cable look so much.
i did try find a Y shrink wrap to do the Y split but i couldnt find any in clear or the small size.
took a while for me to find everything i wanted to use, even baught Kester 63/37 solder for the job (so much better to use then jaycar stuff lol).
 
if i make another i will use a higher grade wire with a naked clear red/black look.
 
i got to hand it to anyone that braids wire for a living, it drove me insain, had to keep unbraiding cas i made a mistake.
 
little tip i found by head shrinking the wire a little past the connector helps stop the wires from bending on a sharp angle
hopfully this will stop any internal breaks at the connectors like what happend to my lcd2 cable. shown in the 2nd last pic.
 
Feb 26, 2015 at 9:40 PM Post #14,487 of 16,305
Can anyone here give me some advice on doing a 2 conductor braid? Obviously it's theoretically super simple; all you have to do is twist the wire counter clockwise, but the twists are super inconsistent for me, some really tight together, then long, then tight again, and in places the wires aren't even together really there is a gap between them. Looks like this: http://i.imgur.com/uMJRar3.jpg
 
Feb 26, 2015 at 10:28 PM Post #14,488 of 16,305
Can anyone here give me some advice on doing a 2 conductor braid? Obviously it's theoretically super simple; all you have to do is twist the wire counter clockwise, but the twists are super inconsistent for me, some really tight together, then long, then tight again, and in places the wires aren't even together really there is a gap between them. Looks like this: http://i.imgur.com/uMJRar3.jpg

I've heard you can use a power drill to speed up the process.
 
Feb 27, 2015 at 2:01 AM Post #14,490 of 16,305
I've heard you can use a power drill to speed up the process.

Don't do this. 
 
 
  Can anyone here give me some advice on doing a 2 conductor braid? Obviously it's theoretically super simple; all you have to do is twist the wire counter clockwise, but the twists are super inconsistent for me, some really tight together, then long, then tight again, and in places the wires aren't even together really there is a gap between them. Looks like this: http://i.imgur.com/uMJRar3.jpg

When you are braiding 2 strands, you are not twisting in any way. You cross the wires over and under each other without them twisting at all, so the part of the wire that is on the top where you would be holding it with your thumb will always be facing upwards. Does that make sense?
 

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