[Anthony1]

Yes

 

[wolfetan44]

Quote:

Yes

Cool thanks. Also, what should I cut it with?

 

[TrollDragon]

Quote:

Nice interconnect and box! I dont know how you soldered all those wires to those Paliccs jacks. The soldering point are so small. I always make a mess when I try.

 
Thanks!
 
The solder points are pretty tiny, I do have a PTA7 Screwdriver tip (700 °F 1/16") that gets into the close places. The 6 wire braid has all the black wires as ground with the two interlacing whites as  L & R, the black wires stripped back to the strain relief fit through the ground hole very easily.

 

[Anthony1]

Quote:

Cool thanks. Also, what should I cut it with?

I use scissors and it will fray

 

[PETEREK]

Quote:

I use scissors and it will fray

I always use scissors then take a lighter to the end to stiffen it back up.

 

[PETEREK]

Quote:

 
Thanks!
 
The solder points are pretty tiny, I do have a PTA7 Screwdriver tip (700 °F 1/16") that gets into the close places. The 6 wire braid has all the black wires as ground with the two interlacing whites as  L & R, the black wires stripped back to the strain relief fit through the ground hole very easily.

That's awesome man, I'm going to have to invest in a better soldering iron. Right now I'm just using a cheap Radio Shack iron. 

 

[TrollDragon]

Quote:

That's awesome man, I'm going to have to invest in a better soldering iron. Right now I'm just using a cheap Radio Shack iron. 

My old Weller TCP is from the 70's and has soldered more connections that I care to count, for an old iron it's still heating up ready to go in 45 seconds. One of these days a shiny new Hakko will replace it but until then a little tap every now and again frees up the heater switch.

 
You want to look into one of these, very reasonable and a good iron makes all the difference in the world.
http://www.hakkousa.com/detail.asp?CID=49&PID=5085&Page=1

 

[PETEREK]

Quote:

My old Weller TCP is from the 70's and has soldered more connections that I care to count, for an old iron it's still heating up ready to go in 45 seconds. One of these days a shiny new Hakko will replace it but until then a little tap every now and again frees up the heater switch.

 
You want to look into one of these, very reasonable and a good iron makes all the difference in the world.
http://www.hakkousa.com/detail.asp?CID=49&PID=5085&Page=1

That has a lot of features for the price. If I ever start making wires for more than just myself I may consider spending the money on one of these. I've already saved myself heaps of money just by making my own cables. I've made a Senn cable for my HD580's, 5 3.5mm male-male cables and a few interconnects already with my cheap iron. If a good iron will make it easier to get jobs done more tidily, and faster, I guess spending the money would pay off pretty quickly.

 

[Blurpapa]

Check this out guys. Seems like a pretty good deal
SPC, OCC, cryo'd, 7N...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/UP-OCC-Silver-Plated-Copper-Audio-Wire-24AWG-PE-Insulation-7N-99-99999-/231000467352?pt=US_Audio_Cables_Adapters&hash=item35c8b36798

 

[wolfetan44]

Quote:

Quote:

I use scissors and it will fray

I always use scissors then take a lighter to the end to stiffen it back up.

Cool.

 

[Zashoomin]

I just finished my cable for my audeze lcd2.2 yesterday and thought that I would show it off.  

 

 

 
Silver from top to bottom 

.

 

[wolfetan44]

Quote:

I just finished my cable for my audeze lcd2.2 yesterday and thought that I would show it off.  

 

 

 
Silver from top to bottom 

.

Nice!!!

 

[wolfetan44]

So for my Type I Paracord, how do I get the white thread out, I try pulling it out, but it results in the shielding coiling up. Thus, I can only get about 1 foot out before it stops coming out.. And solutions?

 

[FraGGleR]

Quote:

So for my Type I Paracord, how do I get the white thread out, I try pulling it out, but it results in the shielding coiling up. Thus, I can only get about 1 foot out before it stops coming out.. And solutions?

You need to cut the length you need to free up the bottom end.  For every foot or so you pull out, you need to push/flatten the sleeving down.  Kind of the opposite of what you will have to do to get the sleeving on.  Think inchworm.  Pull a little, smooth/push it down the line.  Pull a little, smooth/push it down the line.

 

[wolfetan44]

Quote:

Quote:

So for my Type I Paracord, how do I get the white thread out, I try pulling it out, but it results in the shielding coiling up. Thus, I can only get about 1 foot out before it stops coming out.. And solutions?

You need to cut the length you need to free up the bottom end.  For every foot or so you pull out, you need to push/flatten the sleeving down.  Kind of the opposite of what you will have to do to get the sleeving on.  Think inchworm.  Pull a little, smooth/push it down the line.  Pull a little, smooth/push it down the line.

Got it, thanks 
 
Forgot to ask, if I want to make a 5 foot cable, and I'm going to do a 3 wire braid, how long should I cut?