[cssarrow]

dxanex.
 
From the picture, it looks like you went for silver colored nylon either in size 1/4" or 3/16.
 
It looks a little too big.
I think 1/8" would of been good.
or 3/16" if you used 1/4".
Your heatshrink at the headphone end side should be a little thicker.
At least two layers, so that they don't spring open.
Hope you also used adhesive lined heat-shrink or some hot glue on the sleeving before putting it over.
 
Besides that, the cable looks good.
I like wood.
Kind of matches the color of the headphones.
 
Nice work.
 
Tim

 

[liquidzoo]

Quote:

Here's my ATH-ESW9 recable with silver stranded wire I did last week.... the paracord was a b*tch to work with for a first timer, but I still think it came out pretty nice. Plugs were from Yew Audio.
 
Also, I had to melt the plastic on the cups where the cable goes in with my soldering iron a tiny bit, because the cord wouldn't fit otherwise, lol
 
 

What did you use for the wood?  I've been thinking about doing something like that for a while, but I can't decide what I should use for the wood.  I've seen some pre-made wood beads at places like Hobby Lobby, but I'm not sure if they would be the right size.
 
Also, I have a cable question for anyone who can help:
 
 
Since my SR225i's didn't come with the 1/4 > 1/8 adapter like I thought it would (should it?), I have resolved to order the parts to make one. Is there going to be a noticeable sonic difference between the official Grado adapter that has a gold plated 6.3mm female jack on it and, say, this one?

If there is, does anyone know of a place where I can get a gold plated female jack? I seem to be able to only find silver/nickel ones and plastic ones (that are the same as the cheap ones I already have from Radio Shack...)

I'm going to make 2 separate adapters for myself. One for home use with my computer and one to take on the road. That way, too, when I want to swap headphones I can just leave the 6.3mm adapter screwed into my Beyers. I'm thinking that the Neutrik jack is going to be the way to go and if so I will likely order it from Parts Express rather than Redco and order an E07K or E17 at the same time for portable (and maybe home, if it's better than my Xonar DG) use (as well as a LOD, unless I can find one for a comparable price on eBay or something).

 

[cssarrow]

Can you elaborate it a little bit?
 
First you're asking for a 1/4 > 1/8" adapter, then you go off comparing a Sennheiser/Grado Adapter Cable to a Female Plug Connector.
 
If you haven't noticed, the Sennheiser & Grado Adapter 6.3mm to 3.5mm cable looks nearly alike and should perform on the same level.
I find regular 1/4" to 1/8" adapters to work better, that's if you get a decent gold plated (not the ones from China).
 
Reason for getting the Grado is that it's more solid in construction.
From many adapters i've seen, the plug rod would break off.
This shouldn't happen on the Grado as i've had two, and they are rock solid in construction.
 
The Neutrik NJ3FC6 would work better than the Grado, ONLY if you DIY a cable yourself with better wires.
 
You can get some gold plated 3.5mm female from ebay.
They run around $2-5 dollars for one, it as a aluminum or nickel housing and is gold plated brass.
I have a few if you still cannot find.
You can buy something super expensive for a high end cable here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OYAIDE-3-5-Stereo-Mini-Plug-Jack-J-3-5SR-With-Silver-Rhodium-Plating-Genuine-New-/271157099316?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f2238fb34
 
Tim

 

[liquidzoo]

I'm looking to make an adapter similar to the Grado one to let me plug my 225s into a standard 3.5mm jack. I didn't realize that Sennheiser made a cable like that too, I only knew about the Grado one since I used it the other day.

I know the Grado one works well, but I will need a longer one in addition to one around the same size, which is why I want to DIY it.

I do not need a 3.5mm female anywhere in the chain. I need a 6.3mm female and a 3.5mm male.

Making the cable isn't a big deal for me. It should be easy enough, and I have some cable to use already (unless there is a problem with using Mogami for this application). What I was asking is if I will notice a difference in the sound between the official Grado cable (gold plated for both connectors) and one that I DIY that might not be gold plated on the 6.3mm female end.

 

[ardgedee]

As long as the cable is not long and your soldering is well-done, probably not.

 

[liquidzoo]

As long as the cable is not long and your soldering is well-done, probably not.

How long would be too long? I don't anticipate it being more than a couple of feet, but I still want to check.

 

[ardgedee]

Two feet qualifies as "not long", unless you're using some odd variety of wire (very light gauges, or unusual materials).

 

[liquidzoo]

I figured, but I had to ask. I won't be using anything smaller than about 26 awg, and likely some variety of copper or silver.

 

[cssarrow]

Quote:

I'm looking to make an adapter similar to the Grado one to let me plug my 225s into a standard 3.5mm jack. I didn't realize that Sennheiser made a cable like that too, I only knew about the Grado one since I used it the other day.

I know the Grado one works well, but I will need a longer one in addition to one around the same size, which is why I want to DIY it.

I do not need a 3.5mm female anywhere in the chain. I need a 6.3mm female and a 3.5mm male.

Making the cable isn't a big deal for me. It should be easy enough, and I have some cable to use already (unless there is a problem with using Mogami for this application). What I was asking is if I will notice a difference in the sound between the official Grado cable (gold plated for both connectors) and one that I DIY that might not be gold plated on the 6.3mm female end.

Whoops.
 
The linked showing the plastic nickle one looked exactly like a 3.5mm so i was easily mistaken.
 
Both of them are equal in performance (Sennheiser/Grado).
 
I say go with a 1/4" Female, something with gold or rhodium plating if you're going to connect/disconnect it often.
The silver will do okay, but repeated in and outs would tarnish it.

You should not notice any differences as the overall cable will be too short to notice sonic differences.
The connectors would not affect the SQ as it will do nothing to the impedance unless you go over 100FT.
 
Tim

 

[liquidzoo]

Thanks a bunch. I appreciate it. I'm not sure why I thought my Grados would come with the connector (maybe because the 60i and 80i do), but it's good to know I can make my own.

 

[dxanex]

Quote:

What did you use for the wood?  I've been thinking about doing something like that for a while, but I can't decide what I should use for the wood.  I've seen some pre-made wood beads at places like Hobby Lobby, but I'm not sure if they would be the right size.
 

The plug and Y-Split both came from Yew audio. This is the one I got...

 

[ChaosClouds]

Here's my DIY Power Cable:
Link

 

[FraGGleR]

Quote:

Here's my DIY Power Cable:
Link
 

Awesome!  That looks like a ridiculous braid.  And here, I was going to just twist some thick copper wires together for a DIY power cord.

 

[liquidzoo]

That's an impressive braid! Very nice.

 

[FraGGleR]

It has been a while since I last made a cable:
 
 

 

 

 
Very simple recable of my D2000s.  Wire is from Frank @ Toxic Cables (thanks Frank!) and is a wire he was testing that is super flexible.  Unfortunately, pictures can't really show how flexible this wire is.  It was so flexible, that I had to do a much tighter braid than I usually use to give it a little bit more structure.