AudioNewbi3
1000+ Head-Fier
Preparing to recable my earbuds
Welp, destroyed my earbud drivers when recabling (due to speed when opening driver housing)
DIY Cable Gallery!!
- Thread starter HiGHFLYiN9
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- cables rane rca-xlr-cables trs
Welp, destroyed my earbud drivers when recabling (due to speed when opening driver housing)
AudioNewbi3
1000+ Head-Fier
On another note:
Separate cable terminated in 0.75mm UE TF10 pins for my Rose Hybrid 8
Separate cable terminated in 0.75mm UE TF10 pins for my Rose Hybrid 8
On another note:
Separate cable terminated in 0.75mm UE TF10 pins for my Rose Hybrid 8
Nice one mate!
Arty McGhee
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On another note:
Separate cable terminated in 0.75mm UE TF10 pins for my Rose Hybrid 8
great job, what wire is that ? like the look
AudioNewbi3
1000+ Head-Fier
Thanks for the complement mate!
They are from here:
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a1z09.2.0.0.mvEagW&id=540678606174&_u=p2i926dje1aa
I find them to be very soft and free of microphonics.
Lakers1
aka genme, pawn
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Wanted to mimic the toxic cables.
pure silver cable for my ciem 
Timoteo80
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Looking to build my own power cable for my Crack & headphone cable for my HD600. Thx for the tips & pics here!
Moses4188
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audi0nick128
500+ Head-Fier
Sorry if that's the wrong thread, since my cable isn't finished...
Took apart my Hosa 3.5 to dual mono 6.3 cable and wanted to ask if it is save to assume white is positive?
Cheers
Took apart my Hosa 3.5 to dual mono 6.3 cable and wanted to ask if it is save to assume white is positive?
Cheers
Great job man! That braid reminds me somehow of 90's
Thanks!
The sleeve is a yarn. It's made not only good looking, but also decreacing touching noise.
audiofreakie
Member of the Trade: Alpha Omega Labs (Indonesia)
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-C*rdas 24 awg teared litz wire
-Paracord 3strand core
-S*nheisser gold plated miniplug
-2 pin 0.78 connectorsl
SamTheJarvis
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This is my first DIY cable. Had a pair of Westone 3's with a worn cable and heard about removable cable mods. Only saw BTG-Audio's 2 pin connector mod and wasn't sure if MMCX could be done.
I just have the one photo as it encompasses everything really, if you're interested in the process, do continue:
W3 MMCX'ified:
This is the part that exemplified how valuable BTG-Audios service is. Though perhaps fitting a 2 pin is easier (they tend to come with cavities that make soldering easier).
I measured the hole in the chassis left by the rubber grommet and it seemed to match a female MMCX connector exactly. Picked some up from RS-Online and bam, they fit.
The next step was to epoxy them in place and solder the two cables from the tiny PCB inside each earphone. Holy hell the soldering was difficult as the pins on the female MMCX connector had no soldering aids, just flat surfaces to vaguely suggest to the solder that it attaches to. Perhaps there are panel-mount MMCX connectors that are easier to use. Each earphone genuinely took about 8 hours to do as the solder insisted on flowing to both pins. Anyhow, point is - it's possible!
Once soldered, I tested continuity one last time with the multimeter, covered the connections and epoxied everything to one half of the chassis. Gluing only one half means it could be opened later if a repair is needed elsewhere.
The cable:
The cable is some nice Litz copper stuff from Toxic Cables (https://www.toxic-cables.co.uk/). Perfect cable for an an IEM cable being light and flexible. Though being Litz can make soldering tricky - a solder pot is recommended. I didn't use one and I'm suspicious now if there are unused strands of the cable that weren't soldered. The cable works and there are no notable artifacts in the sound!
You've all seen how these cables are constructed so I'll get onto the splitter. I don't like how any premade y-splitters look at all. They're all just a bit too chunky or gaudy looking, like the viablues or the various cheaply CNC'd chinese ones. I considered simply using heatshrink but it didn't look very elegant.
I terminated the cable with a ViaBlue Small 3.5mm jack and MMCX connectors from Luna-Shops (http://www.lunashops.com/goods.php?id=4126) with gaskets that add stiffness to the rotation, stopping them from swivelling freely. Due to the cable being quite chunky it needed to be squeezed and epoxied closed. It's the only part of the cable that can't be undone, though it does use only a small length of cable so it could be cut if re-termination was required.
The splitter:
I'd been wanting to get into wood working and this seemed like a nice small but fairly technical project to start with. It's made from a spare bit of padauk at a friend's workshop. I constructed this y-splitter in the wrong orientation - the grain is perpendicular to the front face and padauk grain traps light so when oiled it goes dark and has no sheen. I might give it a satin lacquer later.
The construction process is as follows:
- Get a square piece of wood
- Cut down to the maximum dimensions you want for your y-splitter
- Precision drill an appropriately sized hole for the input cable in the bottom half way through the length
- Precision drill appropriately sized holes for the two output cables in the top (at an angle so to connect the two holes with the bottom hole)
You can now decide how you want to bind the two halves around your cable. I bound mine with thick copper wire (fitting the copper cable theme)
- Mark a path for your cable to travel around the two halves with pencil
- Find a saw that will make a groove the right width for your binding wire to fit snugly in. Mine was a tenon saw
- Make your grooves around the splitter and test your wire fits. Remove the wire.
- Cut the splitter in half (perhaps with a scroll saw, you want some kind of undulation in the cut so it won't slip around when later bound by wire) If you cut straight there will be very little lateral friction and it will slip around as the wire flexes slightly.
- Dremel the inside of the splitter to fit the profile of your cable (the braid will have wide points). Be sure not to make the wood too thin if using a brittle wood (like Padauk). The smallest of shock can shatter thin Padauk.
Now you can give your wood a final fine sanding and finish.
Bonus photo for the interested and interesting:
Cheers!
I just have the one photo as it encompasses everything really, if you're interested in the process, do continue:
W3 MMCX'ified:
This is the part that exemplified how valuable BTG-Audios service is. Though perhaps fitting a 2 pin is easier (they tend to come with cavities that make soldering easier).
I measured the hole in the chassis left by the rubber grommet and it seemed to match a female MMCX connector exactly. Picked some up from RS-Online and bam, they fit.
The next step was to epoxy them in place and solder the two cables from the tiny PCB inside each earphone. Holy hell the soldering was difficult as the pins on the female MMCX connector had no soldering aids, just flat surfaces to vaguely suggest to the solder that it attaches to. Perhaps there are panel-mount MMCX connectors that are easier to use. Each earphone genuinely took about 8 hours to do as the solder insisted on flowing to both pins. Anyhow, point is - it's possible!
Once soldered, I tested continuity one last time with the multimeter, covered the connections and epoxied everything to one half of the chassis. Gluing only one half means it could be opened later if a repair is needed elsewhere.
The cable:
The cable is some nice Litz copper stuff from Toxic Cables (https://www.toxic-cables.co.uk/). Perfect cable for an an IEM cable being light and flexible. Though being Litz can make soldering tricky - a solder pot is recommended. I didn't use one and I'm suspicious now if there are unused strands of the cable that weren't soldered. The cable works and there are no notable artifacts in the sound!
You've all seen how these cables are constructed so I'll get onto the splitter. I don't like how any premade y-splitters look at all. They're all just a bit too chunky or gaudy looking, like the viablues or the various cheaply CNC'd chinese ones. I considered simply using heatshrink but it didn't look very elegant.
I terminated the cable with a ViaBlue Small 3.5mm jack and MMCX connectors from Luna-Shops (http://www.lunashops.com/goods.php?id=4126) with gaskets that add stiffness to the rotation, stopping them from swivelling freely. Due to the cable being quite chunky it needed to be squeezed and epoxied closed. It's the only part of the cable that can't be undone, though it does use only a small length of cable so it could be cut if re-termination was required.
The splitter:
I'd been wanting to get into wood working and this seemed like a nice small but fairly technical project to start with. It's made from a spare bit of padauk at a friend's workshop. I constructed this y-splitter in the wrong orientation - the grain is perpendicular to the front face and padauk grain traps light so when oiled it goes dark and has no sheen. I might give it a satin lacquer later.
The construction process is as follows:
- Get a square piece of wood
- Cut down to the maximum dimensions you want for your y-splitter
- Precision drill an appropriately sized hole for the input cable in the bottom half way through the length
- Precision drill appropriately sized holes for the two output cables in the top (at an angle so to connect the two holes with the bottom hole)
You can now decide how you want to bind the two halves around your cable. I bound mine with thick copper wire (fitting the copper cable theme)
- Mark a path for your cable to travel around the two halves with pencil
- Find a saw that will make a groove the right width for your binding wire to fit snugly in. Mine was a tenon saw
- Make your grooves around the splitter and test your wire fits. Remove the wire.
- Cut the splitter in half (perhaps with a scroll saw, you want some kind of undulation in the cut so it won't slip around when later bound by wire) If you cut straight there will be very little lateral friction and it will slip around as the wire flexes slightly.
- Dremel the inside of the splitter to fit the profile of your cable (the braid will have wide points). Be sure not to make the wood too thin if using a brittle wood (like Padauk). The smallest of shock can shatter thin Padauk.
Now you can give your wood a final fine sanding and finish.
Bonus photo for the interested and interesting:
Cheers!
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