Accurary or "neutrality" is easily definable as reproducing what's on the recording exactly with no deviation in frequency response or distortion; if the system adds nothing to the signal, it's accurate to the signal.
For headphones this is made more complicated by our ears, which alter and distort the sound produced based on their shape. We can say that a baseline neutral system is a measurably neutral speaker system in a neutral room some given distance in front of us. The sound produced by this system will be accurate to the source file, the sound will travel through the air and interact with our outer ear and ear canal the same way a natural sound source (like the original band) will. It will be, in theory, as if the band were in front of you playing the recording themselves, ignoring all the dirty mastering tricks.
Headphones skip the way the sound travels through the air, and they skip most of the outer ear to pump sound more or less right into our ear canal. A neutral headphone, then, will have a frequency response that exactly compensates for the things it removes. If you've seen any headphone measurements, the most obvious thing this results in is a boost from about 1 kHz peaking at 3 kHz, then back down again. This is the part of the effect our outer ear has to enhance the mid-range frequencies responsible for communication.
But, because each of our ears are different, we're used to hearing the world in slightly different ways and our brains are wired to compensate in different ways. This is our HRTF. The only way we can know our own HRTF, our own personal neutrality, is to measure it. One way to do this is with sine sweeps, playing all frequencies and making note of where certain frequencies are too loud or quiet. Then compare that with graphs of headphone measurements, and use EQ to correct it or find a headphone that better matches it. No two people are going to have exactly the same "accurate" sound, even ignoring the subjective preferences that always muddy up the definition.
Anyway, on the thread topic itself, I won't comment on everything I think is wrong with the chart you made, but I will share the one part that made me dismiss the whole thing: A new cable turned the HD650 from Dark to Light