[Absoltuion]

IT LIVES! Upgraded some parts on it Still waiting on parts for my build though =/.

Biggest thing on this was replacing the 1000uf 200V to 1000uf 250V which were running @ 205V. Got the pot replaced with a Genuine alps so no more chalkboard sounds. The channel imbalace has dropped to being unnoticeable at low volumes , if there is still is even one of any major concern. Upgrades which were really questionable.

Replaced 2W10 bridge with a mur860 bridge replaced film caps with dayton audio films and foil bypass. Twisted the AC heater grid wires. Continued the ground buss to connect to the 25W resistor on right side of image. replaced the power switch I broke. (So much nicer anyways.)

In the past I biased the driver with LEDs. I had also put 40k resistors for front LED and replaced it with a amber. - popped it the other day had to replaced with a UV I had on hand.

This thing was an absolute abortion of case design. Whoever designed the case and how components go into it must of hated the people on the mfg line.

I will also be updating my spec picture I put on here after I confirm somethings.

 

[wwmhf]

Congratulations!!! But, ... I am also disappointed .... because, because you did not tell us how it sounds ... please

 

[Absoltuion]

Without an AB I'm not gonna say whether is sounds better. It doesn't sound worse.

I do know atleast the channel imbalance if still there is unnoticed by the ear now. When you move the volume knob it doesn't have a horrible noise. Also it's a nice feeling that I don't have to worry about a capacitor dying early.

The film caps/bypass I ordered what to give every chance for it to compare with the paper in oil caps I ordered for my amp build.

EDIT: I went back over my spec pictures and all voltages are correct on it. Feel free to use as a referance.

 

[Gurggy]

So my amp started doing a bubbling/crackling sound on the left channel, regardless of the volume, or if it's playing anything at all. I've tried literally everything and my conclusion is that it's an issue on the amp itself. I've looking for info on this for days now, but i am not experienced enough on the topic so i might have missed the info, or there isn't any info on this at all.

I'm willing to try do fix it myself, but i'll consider more experienced users instead willing to mod and fix this issue for me (Send me a private message).

 

[Absoltuion]

When you first powered it on are there any sparks or white spots on heater grid of tube?

 

[Gurggy]

When you first powered it on are there any sparks or white spots on heater grid of tube?

Nothing, they turn warm orange like always. I've also tried different tubes, cables, headphones, DAC... everything i could change i did try it.

I must say it started doing the noise after a long sesion of 6-7h or so (I usually used it for 2-3h, max)

 

[Absoltuion]

What you are describing sounds like poor contact between the pins and sockets

Unplug it from the power source turn the switch to the on position. Leave it for about 30 mins if you have a multi meter please open it up and check the 3 big capacitors in rear if not, wait another 2 hours.

If you have a insulated screwdriver that can fit into socket contacts use it to lightly pry and tighten up the contacts.

 

[JKDJedi]

Nothing, they turn warm orange like always. I've also tried different tubes, cables, headphones, DAC... everything i could change i did try it.

I must say it started doing the noise after a long sesion of 6-7h or so (I usually used it for 2-3h, max)

6-7 hour sessions....wow, you mixing and recording with the Darkvoice? So you tried different tubes, different USB cables, different headphones, and different dacs and your still getting the cracking just in the left channel. Have you tried a different power source? Different outlet? Preferably one with nothing else plugged into it and not on a power strip, try that before signing her off.

 

[Gurggy]

6-7 hour sessions....wow, you mixing and recording with the Darkvoice? So you tried different tubes, different USB cables, different headphones, and different dacs and your still getting the cracking just in the left channel. Have you tried a different power source? Different outlet? Preferably one with nothing else plugged into it and not on a power strip, try that before signing her off.

I was listening to music then switched to gaming. I assume it's probably a bad idea after what happened to use tube amps for that later lol.

So i just plugged it elsewhere, and while the noise seems to wither a bit, it's still there. Weird. It starts doing the sound the longer it's turned on, so it'll probably increase in volume as it's running.

About the contacts, i'll try that tomorrow as i have no light in my current place rn. Thank you! I do have a multimeter, but i am not sure where did you ask me to check?

Sorry i'm completely unfamiliar with these devices

Edit: Yeah the hum became very noticeable after a while. I'll try the switching it on without power for a while, see what happens...

 

[Absoltuion]

It still sounds like the contacts are heating up and loosening.

I mean I've been using mine too for gaming movies and music I don't really see thst harm in it.

 

[JKDJedi]

I was listening to music then switched to gaming. I assume it's probably a bad idea after what happened to use tube amps for that later lol.

So i just plugged it elsewhere, and while the noise seems to wither a bit, it's still there. Weird. It starts doing the sound the longer it's turned on, so it'll probably increase in volume as it's running.

About the contacts, i'll try that tomorrow as i have no light in my current place rn. Thank you! I do have a multimeter, but i am not sure where did you ask me to check?

Sorry i'm completely unfamiliar with these devices

Edit: Yeah the hum became very noticeable after a while. I'll try the switching it on without power for a while, see what happens...

Nothing wrong to use it for gaming, Doom Eternal sounds awesome on the Darkvoice

 

[bcowen]

IT LIVES! Upgraded some parts on it Still waiting on parts for my build though =/.

Biggest thing on this was replacing the 1000uf 200V to 1000uf 250V which were running @ 205V. Got the pot replaced with a Genuine alps so no more chalkboard sounds. The channel imbalace has dropped to being unnoticeable at low volumes , if there is still is even one of any major concern. Upgrades which were really questionable.

Replaced 2W10 bridge with a mur860 bridge replaced film caps with dayton audio films and foil bypass. Twisted the AC heater grid wires. Continued the ground buss to connect to the 25W resistor on right side of image. replaced the power switch I broke. (So much nicer anyways.)

In the past I biased the driver with LEDs. I had also put 40k resistors for front LED and replaced it with a amber. - popped it the other day had to replaced with a UV I had on hand.

This thing was an absolute abortion of case design. Whoever designed the case and how components go into it must of hated the people on the mfg line.

I will also be updating my spec picture I put on here after I confirm somethings.

Nice workmanship!!!

 

[bcowen]

It still sounds like the contacts are heating up and loosening.

I mean I've been using mine too for gaming movies and music I don't really see thst harm in it.

I agree...sounds like a contact issue. To @Gurggy , have you ever cleaned the sockets? I'd certainly try cleaning them first as well as re-tensioning the contacts in each socket. If you've never done this before, it's a good thing to do even if it doesn't fix the current problem. A pipe cleaner and isopropyl alcohol work great for cleaning octal sockets. And for re-tensioning, something like the below works great. Only need one obviously, but cheap enough just to get the pack. Just stick the end into each socket hole and gently pry the contacts a bit closer to each other. Don't get all Herculean with it, just a gentle tug will normally close the opening up enough to make better contact with the tube pin(s). And please -- be sure the amp is off and unplugged, and as @Absoltuion recommends let it sit for a while after doing do to assure the capacitors are discharged before sticking metal things in the tube sockets.

https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-St...588029935&sprefix=dental+pick,aps,151&sr=8-13

 

[JKDJedi]

I agree...sounds like a contact issue. To @Gurggy , have you ever cleaned the sockets? I'd certainly try cleaning them first as well as re-tensioning the contacts in each socket. If you've never done this before, it's a good thing to do even if it doesn't fix the current problem. A pipe cleaner and isopropyl alcohol work great for cleaning octal sockets. And for re-tensioning, something like the below works great. Only need one obviously, but cheap enough just to get the pack. Just stick the end into each socket hole and gently pry the contacts a bit closer to each other. Don't get all Herculean with it, just a gentle tug will normally close the opening up enough to make better contact with the tube pin(s). And please -- be sure the amp is off and unplugged, and as @Absoltuion recommends let it sit for a while after doing do to assure the capacitors are discharged before sticking metal things in the tube sockets.

https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Picks-Probes-Sculpting/dp/B000BKYRM6/ref=sr_1_13?crid=1EPNU4HSEF771&dchild=1&keywords=dental+picks+stainless+steel+professional&qid=1588029935&sprefix=dental+pick,aps,151&sr=8-13

This I'm gonna do!! I have those! Use em for for some of my mountain bike maintenance. The ones I have are dental tools, probably carbon copy same tools just different title's..

 

[Gurggy]

I've ordered some isopropyl alcohol online, as i can't get it anywhere local currently. I'll update you guys once i clean it up (i've never done it before, so that's possibly it). Thanks so much!!