Darkvoice 336i & 336SE Tuberolling PartII
Feb 11, 2021 at 4:12 PM Post #6,691 of 14,518
Can anyone tell me how many screws hold the top plate on? As long as I'm continuing this rabbit hole I'd kinda like to get the output caps, but it appears to be attached by more than the four screws. I thought maybe removing the top plate, but there's also apparently more than the five screws (two at the front, three at the back) holding IT in place.

Or if I don't need to remove the top plate, how the everloving heck do I get the PCB with the six output caps on it out?!?

IMG_0704.jpg


Weirdly, the harder and more frustrating this becomes the more I want to go even further. Thus the caps. I was totally just going to replace the resistors around the 6sn7 socket and the switch. But noooooo. Couldn't get the switch off, so I replaced the sockets. Still couldn't get the switch off, so I removed the pot. Broke a pin on the pot, so I made a new PCB with my attenuator. Still can't get the switch off (although I've now broken it and it's not in my way getting to that *&@#(*&$# screw) and, F it, I'll replace a ton of caps.
 
Last edited:
Feb 11, 2021 at 4:18 PM Post #6,692 of 14,518
If they are what I think they are, try them in the Darkvoice first. :ksc75smile:

Here...I fixed this for me:

I have a couple Melz out for delivery today (after a full month since shipment). These are not the usual suspects. Will have to see what they do to the amp and then decide if I need to order more. LOL!
 
Feb 11, 2021 at 4:52 PM Post #6,693 of 14,518
Feb 11, 2021 at 5:01 PM Post #6,694 of 14,518
Here...I fixed this for me:
This is going to be bad, I just know it but when people ask you about tubes I will have an example of why they should run away quickly. :ksc75smile:
 
Feb 11, 2021 at 5:02 PM Post #6,695 of 14,518
I got one of the two remaining screws out of the faceplate. Long Philips bit for my ratcheting screwdriver + removing the caps on either side of the tubes made it work.
Other screw is stripped as all get-out and I can't finagle anything bigger than a screwdriver bit under the switch, so... I put Gorilla Glue on the tip of the Philips bit and stuck it into the screw. We'll see if it turns in a bit when that sets.

Uh-oh. Now you're going to have to join the lawsuit with the girl that sprayed Gorilla glue in her hair. It won't come out, and now she's suing because there was nothing on the can that specifically told her not to spray it in her hair. Guess we should all be glad she didn't spray it up her butt. Or not. :sweat_smile: You'll have to sue because there's no specific warning about Gorilla-gluing screws, and when the screw comes out but then can't be separated from your favorite screwdriver the emotional pain inflicted will likely leave deep emotional scars for the rest of your life. We're here for you though, bro'... :laughing:
 
Feb 11, 2021 at 5:04 PM Post #6,696 of 14,518
This is going to be bad, I just know it but when people ask you about tubes I will have an example of why they should run away quickly. :ksc75smile:

LOL! All my tube recommendations carry an implied disclosure: if something goes wrong, it's @JKDJedi 's fault. :sweat_smile:
 
Feb 11, 2021 at 5:11 PM Post #6,697 of 14,518
Last edited:
Feb 11, 2021 at 5:12 PM Post #6,698 of 14,518
Uh-oh. Now you're going to have to join the lawsuit with the girl that sprayed Gorilla glue in her hair. It won't come out, and now she's suing because there was nothing on the can that specifically told her not to spray it in her hair. Guess we should all be glad she didn't spray it up her butt. Or not. :sweat_smile: You'll have to sue because there's no specific warning about Gorilla-gluing screws, and when the screw comes out but then can't be separated from your favorite screwdriver the emotional pain inflicted will likely leave deep emotional scars for the rest of your life. We're here for you though, bro'... :laughing:
Now wait, there are problems getting the screws loose? Anyone want to bet me I won't have the whole thing disassembled in a half hour? I would do a video of course. I must have a screwdriver somewhere.:L3000:
 
Feb 11, 2021 at 5:32 PM Post #6,699 of 14,518
Can anyone tell me how many screws hold the top plate on? As long as I'm continuing this rabbit hole I'd kinda like to get the output caps, but it appears to be attached by more than the four screws. I thought maybe removing the top plate, but there's also apparently more than the five screws (two at the front, three at the back) holding IT in place.

Or if I don't need to remove the top plate, how the everloving heck do I get the PCB with the six output caps on it out?!?



Weirdly, the harder and more frustrating this becomes the more I want to go even further. Thus the caps. I was totally just going to replace the resistors around the 6sn7 socket and the switch. But noooooo. Couldn't get the switch off, so I replaced the sockets. Still couldn't get the switch off, so I removed the pot. Broke a pin on the pot, so I made a new PCB with my attenuator. Still can't get the switch off (although I've now broken it and it's not in my way getting to that *&@#(*&$# screw) and, F it, I'll replace a ton of caps.
Yeah, you’ll need to remove the front plate to have access to the threads and nut securing each the power switch and output jack.

There are four Phillips screws holding the output PCB board down. You’ll want to desolder everything and then unscrew them. The board will lift right out. This also exposes the remaining screws holding the top plate on.
 
Last edited:
Feb 11, 2021 at 5:36 PM Post #6,700 of 14,518
Yeah, you’ll need to remove the front plate to have access to the threads and nut securing each the power switch and input jacks.

There are four Phillips screws holding the output PCB board down. You’ll want to desolder everything and then unscrew them. The board will lift right out. This also exposes the remaining screws holding the top plate on.
I've got the screws out of it. I'm figuring some of the soldered spots on the top that don't have something coming into them that I can see are attached to something underneath. I'll desolder them tonight. Thanks!
 
Feb 11, 2021 at 5:40 PM Post #6,701 of 14,518
I've got the screws out of it. I'm figuring some of the soldered spots on the top that don't have something coming into them that I can see are attached to something underneath. I'll desolder them tonight. Thanks!
Yes, review at my post on the topic. I highlight all of the solder points. You may have left the 4x transformer leads soldered.
 
Last edited:
Feb 11, 2021 at 5:45 PM Post #6,702 of 14,518
I was having a real bad day until I started reading the replies on here...you crazy bunch made my day...thx 🤪
 
Feb 11, 2021 at 5:50 PM Post #6,703 of 14,518
Output cap replacement

Remove the output PCB board. Start by de-soldering the green points shown, then unscrew the four screws in each corner. I used these caps - Vishay MKP1839 (10uf) x 8, Vishay MKP1839 (.1uf) x 8



De-solder and clean up the board, remove the stock orange caps by what way you wish. I also removed the two blue block .47uf output caps as this unit has the preamp output removed. It will give you more room to work with. The cleaner the board is, the easier the install.


I also chose to relocate the resistors to the bottom of the PCB so my caps could sit more flush.


Measurements for cap replacement buying, you have some extra overhang room on the rear and sides, just be aware of the leads and insulate, etc. Don't let anything touch the case or another lead.


Okay, get your caps ready, I chose to match my L and R channels. I tried fitting ten but could only safely fit eight due to the outer edge lip of the case being too close to the capacitor which made installing the board next to impossible. I added a 1% bypass cap, piggybacking the greens for ease of installation.


Add the caps, carefully enlarge any pad hole if needed with a Dremel and diamond bit, careful.. slow and easy does it, go up in bit sizes gradually. This PCB board is quite robust though. If you study the PCB, you will notice there are traces on the top and bottom of the PCB. Because of this, I felt it was necessary to carefully solder the top and bottom of every pad to ensure good solid connection. These caps are so long that they cover the rear lead connection, so I wrapped them around the board and went up through the bottom. Because this PCB is mounted on metal posts, you have some clearance to do so. My process was: Solder the rear lead on the top, pull the cap down and then solder the other 3 pads (bottom rear, front top and front bottom)


Ensure everything is fairly flush and clean. The tape was added to the rear of the cap wall as a safety measure before installation.


Now it's time to place it in the case.. the toughest part here is getting the wires from the transformer to line up, but it really was much less of a problem that I thought it would be, it pretty much fit for me first try, use a flashlight/headlamp to see where the wires are in relation to the PCB holes. Don't forget to screw it down.


Re-solder all of your connections. Be conscious of the leads, do not push them so far into the hole that they are touching or anywhere close to the case below.



Enjoy a beer.


Also I should mention that my amp has the current mods: dim red LED cathode bias, ALPS Blue 50k, 47k shunt, Preamp output removal, rhodium plated :smile: RCA input jacks, micalex sockets, replaced wiring and some other minor or cosmetic things like panel led, switch and jack replacements. see sig for phones used etc.

I will do my best to describe the sonic differences.. I think the overall resolution has improved slightly, not a dramatic change. The low end is more articulate and tight, I noticed a slight decrease in bass boom, this is a good thing (I used to run a -2db in low end due to my phones/pads but now it's set to 0), it doesn't get so low to the point of wanting to break up. The high frequency range improved and is overall more crisp, less chance of becoming harsh too. I don't immediately notice much of a change in the soundstage, ie: there isn't some grand 3D airy sound now. It's hard to compare without an A/B, separation may have slightly improved. However, we have tubes for some of these changes. Overall these caps have a warmer sound than the stock oranges but not in a veil sort of way. Mid emphasis but still have decent frequency extension that bests the stock orange caps.

I will come back and edit this post if I notice any sonic changes to mention after 100+ hours of use. I have no idea if cap burn in is real or not. Some claim certain caps give you more low end and or less grain, etc after some listening.

Feel free to DM me for questions. @bcowen is installing a single 47uf Mundorf per channel soon and that is possibly another cap option for the Darkvoice but we will see if those beasts fit soon. Then once he sends me his amp to demo, I will let you know which caps I prefer. :smile:

Capacitor reviews: Capacitor Musings By Jon L., Part One, Part Two
Just quoting this so I can find it easier. Also totally gonna remove those two little caps since I also got rid of the pre outs
 
Last edited:
Feb 11, 2021 at 8:29 PM Post #6,704 of 14,518
Uh-oh. Now you're going to have to join the lawsuit with the girl that sprayed Gorilla glue in her hair. It won't come out, and now she's suing because there was nothing on the can that specifically told her not to spray it in her hair. Guess we should all be glad she didn't spray it up her butt. Or not. :sweat_smile: You'll have to sue because there's no specific warning about Gorilla-gluing screws, and when the screw comes out but then can't be separated from your favorite screwdriver the emotional pain inflicted will likely leave deep emotional scars for the rest of your life. We're here for you though, bro'... :laughing:
To @DeweyCH: I guess that your screwdriver is screwed 😖
 
Feb 11, 2021 at 8:46 PM Post #6,705 of 14,518

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top