[bcowen]

Also can I just go for a SPST?

Yes, more than 120v is fine. 125VAC is perfect. A SPST switch will work fine too.

 

[therremans]

Can I ask what the voltage and amperage ratings are for that? Is it 2-4 volts DC and 100mA? And if so, would any voltage rating in that 2-4 VDC range work? I'd like to find an illuminated push-button switch if possible. No clue why, just do.

No, 5A 125VAC (3A 250VAC) this is getting AC power right out of the wall and then feeding the transformer.

Would something like this work?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000375272251.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000023.2.5e229087JbTVkt

I looked at many switches, even stumbled upon these (these are rated for DC btw) as I wanted something different. I would be weary about using some low grade switches though. There’s a lot more full sized 6mm switch options out there but you’ll be drilling out your front plate to fit them. Yeah.. you could paint the exposed metal or use a switch that has a lip.

I used the Carling switch that the Chinese probably copied. If you look at the photo, they’re nearly identical minus the toggle portion.

I drilled the interior hole out to 1/4” so my switch would bolt on. The threaded shaft fits perfectly into the front plate cover.

FYI I received the stepped attenuator you linked earlier this weekend. May or may not try installing it at some point; wanna do a power switch first and maybe then dick around with yet another volume controller. Should be way, way, way easier this time around (knocks on head). Arrived with the volume knob - same seller.

I don’t even think my Chinese seller has shipped mine yet.. Not sure how this will turn out, it still says HK is waiting for the package! I will write him today.

A SPST switch will work fine too.

There’s the hot and neutral wire coming into the switch and then off to the transformer when it has a connection. Middle lugs are soldered with hot and neutral AC lines. Top empty (off) bottom lugs have the lines ran into the transformer (on).

For a SPST to work, do you just crimp together the neutral wires?

 

[DeweyCH]

No, 5A 125VAC (3A 250VAC) this is getting AC power right out of the wall and then feeding the transformer.

I looked at many switches, even stumbled upon these (these are rated for DC btw) as I wanted something different. I would be weary about using some low grade switches though. There’s a lot more full sized 6mm switch options out there but you’ll be drilling out your front plate to fit them. Yeah.. you could paint the exposed metal or use a switch that has a lip.

I used the Carling switch that the Chinese probably copied. If you look at the photo, they’re nearly identical minus the toggle portion.

I drilled the interior hole out to 1/4” so my switch would bolt on. The threaded shaft fits perfectly into the front plate cover.


I don’t even think my Chinese seller has shipped mine yet.. Not sure how this will turn out, it still says HK is waiting for the package! I will write him today.

There’s the hot and neutral wire coming into the switch and then off to the transformer when it has a connection. Middle lugs are soldered with hot and neutral AC lines. Top empty (off) bottom lugs have the lines ran into the transformer (on).

For a SPST to work, do you just crimp together the neutral wires?

If you want, I'll send you my attenuator and you can just send me yours whenever it arrives. I'm unlikely to install it in the reasonable near future.

 

[therremans]

If you want, I'll send you my attenuator and you can just send me yours whenever it arrives. I'm unlikely to install it in the reasonable near future.

That’s generous of you, I’m sure I can find the patience but if things change, I’ll let you know. Which one did you purchase? I got the 10k D shaft (not knurled).

 

[DeweyCH]

That’s generous of you, I’m sure I can find the patience but if things change, I’ll let you know. Which one did you purchase? I got the 10k D shaft (not knurled).

10k knurled.

 

[DeweyCH]

I think my 5998 + CV181-Z + Beyerdynamic T1.2 combo is really, really good synergistically. My K240 Sextetts both sound really good on this, but not nearly as good as the Beyers (no s***, they're way pricier). Better combo, too, than the 5998 + RCA black-base 6SN7GTB. Such heft to the bass, such clarity, such soundstage. Very nice and I can't wait to see what it does with my ZMF headphones when they finally get here.

 

[bcowen]

There’s the hot and neutral wire coming into the switch and then off to the transformer when it has a connection. Middle lugs are soldered with hot and neutral AC lines. Top empty (off) bottom lugs have the lines ran into the transformer (on).

For a SPST to work, do you just crimp together the neutral wires?

Yup. The switch is breaking the 'hot' connection so that no power flows. There is still live AC at the contacts on the bottom/back of the switch regardless of the switch position, but that's no different than a DPDT switch. If you want to completely disconnect both hot and neutral from the amp past the switch (when in the 'off' position), then a DPDT switch is needed.

 

[therremans]

Yup. The switch is breaking the 'hot' connection so that no power flows. There is still live AC at the contacts on the bottom/back of the switch regardless of the switch position, but that's no different than a DPDT switch. If you want to completely disconnect both hot and neutral from the amp past the switch (when in the 'off' position), then a DPDT switch is needed.

Right, so the question is.. when do you need to break the neutral connection along with the hot?

 

[DeweyCH]

Quick observation: any song with a bass harmonica in it should be played through this combo. Fantastic. Fool on the Hill and The Boxer, specifically.

 

[bcowen]

Right, so the question is.. when do you need to break the neutral connection along with the hot?

Need? When you don't have a 3-prong power cord, or a 2 conductor power cord that lacks the wider blade that will only fit in the neutral slot of the AC outlet. Or in other words, when you don't have a foolproof connection to the wall outlet that assures the neutral from the AC outlet is connected to the neutral in the component. As the DV has a 3-prong (earth grounded) cord, shouldn't be an issue as the cord can only be plugged into the AC outlet one way, but this assumes that someone rewiring the internals gets the incoming hot lead wired to the switch and NOT the neutral wired to the switch. A DPDT switch adds an additional safety by disconnecting both hot and neutral and as such is perhaps a better option, but not an absolute necessity in this case (IMO).

 

[JKDJedi]

I think my 5998 + CV181-Z + Beyerdynamic T1.2 combo is really, really good synergistically. My K240 Sextetts both sound really good on this, but not nearly as good as the Beyers (no s***, they're way pricier). Better combo, too, than the 5998 + RCA black-base 6SN7GTB. Such heft to the bass, such clarity, such soundstage. Very nice and I can't wait to see what it does with my ZMF headphones when they finally get here.

Which ones (ZMF) did you get?

 

[DeweyCH]

Which ones (ZMF) did you get?

Auteurs and stabilized Verite Closed

 

[JKDJedi]

Auteurs and stabilized Verite Closed

two? woah .. very nice.

 

[DeweyCH]

two? woah .. very nice.

Yeah, I'm afraid those are the last pairs of headphones I'll ever buy.

 

[bcowen]

Yeah, I'm afraid those are the last pairs of headphones I'll ever buy.

ROFL!! So says the tube addict...