[aroldan]

U do the fuzzor mos to tame the highs,I don't need it in my set uo

The fuzzor mod is meant to reduce the internal wave reflections. It actually increases clarity and details, without a compromise on the highs.

 

[screwdriver]

  The fuzzor mod is meant to reduce the internal wave reflections. It actually increases clarity and details, without a compromise on the highs.

 well in my current  case , in my set up it robs the treble too much ( F1J amp.)
I had the fuzzor mod when I used the Sophia el34 amp - the treble was shrill at timesn  - the fuzzor worked well in that case
 
maybe in your system it works the way u say it , but not in my case now.

 

[nick n]

Now we need nmatheis to check in after he tries it.
 
 I revisited the Ultrasone PRO2500 again.
I had toned it back to 3 x 1cm squares of 30D 1/10.
 
=Two on either side right at the offset driver and one at the top opposite that, all were on the mu-metal baffle plate but away from the edges about 8mm-sh. This also helps the pads stay a bit more snug ( less backing off ) with their fast-swap tab system.
 
It was a bit too tight sounding and even though clarity was great it was lacking some of the increased body that some of the other mods I have done managed to bring out.
 
So I decided to move all Sorb away from the driver.
I ended up with  only two 1cm squares directly across from the driver at the top of the metal baffle plate. BINGO. Things bulked up more with greater bass extension and overall improvement. No longer have that feeling of "something is off "
 
 
I gave some of this stuff to my brother to try out on his Ultrasone PRO2900 so will hassle him until he tries it, and hopefully he can see the difference, as he is new to this, but each time they are out he gets to check out a ridiculous amount here so is likely now better able to distinguish before and after, and at least describe what he is hearing.
 
 
I'm sure there was another thing I did up ( if not more ), but can't recall right now what that was.
 
Oh yes the Fostex T50RP special mod I had. ( but there are more I forget what )
It's not pretty but nobody sees it.
Plus it is directly on top of the Dynamat extreme. Dynamat adds very little to my mind, I might as well not use it except for sealing drivers to baffles.
Effects noted at link > http://www.head-fi.org/t/618659/fostex-t50rp-incremental-mods-and-measurements/1935#post_12010490
This particular case is an example of more is better
added an extra row:

 

[nmatheis]

I'll check in sometime in the not too distant future. Just got a bunch of portable gear in for testing. After I pass that on, I'll get to concentrate on my HE400.

 

[richard51]

 
 well in my current  case , in my set up it robs the treble too much ( F1J amp.)
I had the fuzzor mod when I used the Sophia el34 amp - the treble was shrill at timesn  - the fuzzor worked well in that case
 
maybe in your system it works the way u say it , but not in my case now.

you MUST cut the pieces of sorb in 4 pieces or better in 6 , the highs will be better, yesterday i cutted many of my rectangular,  pieces in 6 little squares : the high begins to shine way better and clarity across mids and highs, bass unaffected... Wow...

 
 
p.s. for sure fuzzor mod is a damping mod with no filtering effect , i think sorb. mod is not compatible with other simultaneously damping mod without destructing the effect...

 

[screwdriver]

 
you MUST cut the pieces of sorb in 4 pieces or better in 6 , the highs will be better, yesterday i cutted many of my rectangular,  pieces in 6 little squares : the high begins to shine way better and clarity across mids and highs, bass unaffected... Wow...

 
 
p.s. for sure fuzzor mod is a damping mod with no filtering effect , i think sorb. mod is not compatible with other simultaneously damping mod without destructing the effect...

ill try this out tonight

 

[nick n]

 I doubt they will post in here so:
http://www.head-fi.org/t/779750/sony-h-ear-on-mdr-100aap-199-hi-res-audio-over-ear-headphones/210#post_12019489
 
Also great transformation on the Martin Logan Mikros 90 here with a few mods of course.

 

[edstrelow]

   I doubt they will post in here so:
http://www.head-fi.org/t/779750/sony-h-ear-on-mdr-100aap-199-hi-res-audio-over-ear-headphones/210#post_12019489
 
Also great transformation on the Martin Logan Mikros 90 here with a few mods of course.

Good to see the use of sorbothane damping spreading to other threads and headphones.  nick n seems most impressed with the fact that the sorbothane tamed bass bloat in his phones.   I have found that damping bass can be somewhat tricky to achieve but finally got success with  the Stax SR007 and Sigma pros which had been more problematic than other phones.   You seem to need just the right amount of sorb,   Too much, or too large  pieces  may actually give a bass boom.
 
I also think that as the adhesive bond ages boominess tends to go away.  On a couple of occasions I have not liked the sound of a sorb mod, but decided to wait a day to see if it still sounded off after 24 hours.  Sometimes  the sound improved over time.  The sorb needs to be firmly in place.  It seems obvious that if it is loose, it will not be able to damp effectively because less vibrational energy will get into the sorb.  I suspect that if it is loose it may even start to vibrate, and worsen the mechanical vibrations already in the earcup and thus make the sound worse. 
 
nick n seems to have got lucky on what I assume is his first effort,  he got the right amount of sorb.  It doesn't look like  he is using adhesive. It seems that he is able to hold the sorb in place by rescrewing the structures of the earcup back together with the sorb in the middle like the meat in a sandwich. 

 

[waynes world]

  Good to see the use of sorbothane damping spreading to other threads and headphones.  nick n seems most impressed with the fact that the sorbothane tamed bass bloat in his phones.   I have found that damping bass can be somewhat tricky to achieve but finally got success with  the Stax SR007 and Sigma pros which had been more problematic than other phones.   You seem to need just the right amount of sorb,   Too much, or too large  pieces  may actually give a bass boom.
 
I also think that as the adhesive bond ages boominess tends to go away.  On a couple of occasions I have not liked the sound of a sorb mod, but decided to wait a day to see if it still sounded off after 24 hours.  Sometimes  the sound improved over time.  The sorb needs to be firmly in place.  It seems obvious that if it is loose, it will not be able to damp effectively because less vibrational energy will get into the sorb.  I suspect that if it is loose it may even start to vibrate, and worsen the mechanical vibrations already in the earcup and thus make the sound worse. 
 
nick n seems to have got lucky on what I assume is his first effort,  he got the right amount of sorb.  It doesn't look like  he is using adhesive. It seems that he is able to hold the sorb in place by rescrewing the structures of the earcup back together with the sorb in the middle like the meat in a sandwich. 

 
Interesting points. I had done the below to my yamaha mt220's:
 

 
They certainly sounded like different headphones! But I've thought that possibly the bass was a bit too boomy, so I just now removed 4 corner pieces of sorb from each driver, and I swear the bass is now "just right". Makes me want to experiment more with the configuration (ie smaller pieces, or fewer yet more evenly spaced pieces). Anyway, amazing stuff. And props also to nick n for always being so helpful.

 

[nick n]

Oh that is the other guy in the Sony thread not me!
I merely linked his first efforts.
 I would hope he uses adhesive style next, but as you say looks like a lucky first try given random depths and pressures on the stuff.
He does have a large music background so seems to know his sound also.
 
I am sending some out to another orthonaut soon and he is likely to check in to this master thread also at some point.
 
 
 
Waynesworld so that went from boomy with all that to a little more tight and  refined? Did the levels drop at all or I would imagine maybe clarity/transparency increased? = if that is possible on those MT220.

 

[richard51]

it seems that nobody dare to CUT the sorb like i experiment...for me cutting the sorb in pieces was way more subtle method for  damping  and filtering of the resonance...

 

 

[nick n]

My pieces are all on the small side now. I have not yet tried to slice down though.

 

[waynes world]

  My pieces are all on the small side now. I have not yet tried to slice down though.

 
Since the mt220's, I used 1cm squares (that you suggested) for the Mikros 90's. I like that size.
 

  it seems that nobody dare to CUT the sorb like i experiment...for me cutting the sorb in pieces was way more subtle method for  damping  and filtering of the resonance...

 

 
I just saw your posts showing that. I might try that, thanks.

 

[edstrelow]

Quote from article by Lynn Olson which explains the mechanical resonance issues in loudspeakers. He also notes the use of sorbothane. I would say the issues are the same in headphones but that they have been ignored and thus a problem in most if not all headphones.
 
"The unwanted mechanical energy must be quickly discharged in two ways: rigid, low-loss mechanical links to the earth itself (a rigid path from the magnet to stand to floor to ground), and also dissipated as heat energy in high-loss, amorphous materials such as lead, sand, sorbothane, etc. The energy that is not removed is re-radiated as spurious noise from every single mechanical part of the speaker and cabinet, each of which has its own individual resonant signature." (bold added)
 
http://www.nutshellhifi.com/library/speaker-design1.html

 

[saidentary]

  Quote from article by Lynn Olson which explains the mechanical resonance issues in loudspeakers. He also notes the use of sorbothane. I would say the issues are the same in headphones but that they have been ignored and thus a problem in most if not all headphones.
 
"The unwanted mechanical energy must be quickly discharged in two ways: rigid, low-loss mechanical links to the earth itself (a rigid path from the magnet to stand to floor to ground), and also dissipated as heat energy in high-loss, amorphous materials such as lead, sand, sorbothane, etc. The energy that is not removed is re-radiated as spurious noise from every single mechanical part of the speaker and cabinet, each of which has its own individual resonant signature." (bold added)
 
http://www.nutshellhifi.com/library/speaker-design1.html

What he refers to as low-loss would seem to correspond to coupling, as is done with brass points and other coupling devices.  The "mechanical link to the earth itself" is the "coupling."  Such coupling obviously isn't possible with headphones.  This leaves only the high-loss, amorphous materials and, of course making the headphone as sturdy and non-resonant as possible to begin with.