[CT007]

Any thoughts on an OG Chord Mojo vs. RU7 comparison?

I love the Mojo, but would appreciate the smaller package of the RU7. My most used IEMs are Audeze LCD-i3 and JVC HA-FX750, and I listen to most any genre except classical. I also value soundstage a lot (and would like to improve on the Mojo's sound stage).

Mojo should be more heavily colored and warm. RU7 would be cleaner, more neutral, more detailed, less warm. Can't remember about Mojo bass...but I think it was nice and strong enough. I wouldn't say either have very good spaciousness. M15 is better for that. Or maybe Mojo 2, but I don't think so.

Mojo 1 impressed me, and RU6. Wasn't as impressed with the more neutral, less magical sound of Mojo 2.

 

[itwasluck]

Any thoughts on an OG Chord Mojo vs. RU7 comparison?

I love the Mojo, but would appreciate the smaller package of the RU7. My most used IEMs are Audeze LCD-i3 and JVC HA-FX750, and I listen to most any genre except classical. I also value soundstage a lot (and would like to improve on the Mojo's sound stage).

I think you'll be very happy with the RU7, I was (and many others) immediately struck by the large soundstage when I first heard it. The image separation is also top notch. If you are looking for a straight upgrade from the Mojo 1, the Mojo 2 would be right up your alley.

 

[4nradio]

Mojo should be more heavily colored and warm. RU7 would be cleaner, more neutral, more detailed, less warm. Can't remember about Mojo bass...but I think it was nice and strong enough. I wouldn't say either have very good spaciousness. M15 is better for that. Or maybe Mojo 2, but I don't think so.

Mojo 1 impressed me, and RU6. Wasn't as impressed with the more neutral, less magical sound of Mojo 2.

I appreciate those thoughts!

I did use a RU6 for a while and felt it was lacking resolution compared to the Mojo. I've been wondering if the RU7 is different enough to warrant a listen. I remember 1-bit SACD players from the past, and that's driving my RU7 curiosity too.

 

[4nradio]

I think you'll be very happy with the RU7, I was (and many others) immediately struck by the large soundstage when I first heard it. The image separation is also top notch. If you are looking for a straight upgrade from the Mojo 1, the Mojo 2 would be right up your alley.

Good stuff... Thanks for the information.

I like the smaller size of the RU7, so that figures into my choice too.

 

[CT007]

I did use a RU6 for a while and felt it was lacking resolution compared to the Mojo

RU7 will get you more resolution and detail, but not really any more space or depth. Sounds like RU6 was too pleasant/soft for you, so RU7 could be to taste. Or Mojo 2

 

[ClieOS]

Thought some will be interested (47ohm dummy loud, 1kHz test tone)

RU7 (Vol 65)
USB Power Draw: 5.161V 0.143A = 0.74mW
SE Output: 0.0915V 13.63mA = 1.25mW

For roughly the same output power:

W4 (Vol 77)
USB Power Draw: 5.189V 0.118A = 0.61mW
SE Output: 0.0972V 12.59mA = 1.22mW

 

[daijobudes]

I’ve got my dongle to rule them all lol

Thought some will be interested (47ohm dummy loud, 1kHz test tone)

RU7 (Vol 65)
USB Power Draw: 5.161V 0.143A = 0.74mW
SE Output: 0.0915V 13.63mA = 1.25mW

For roughly the same output power:

W4 (Vol 77)
USB Power Draw: 5.189V 0.118A = 0.61mW
SE Output: 0.0972V 12.59mA = 1.22mW

huh, that’s interesting.
L&P are getting messy with their designs, probably running more for money $$$ less for sound.
I’m glad I opted for ru7

 

[CT007]

RU7 (Vol 65)

L or H gain?

 

[ClieOS]

L or H gain?

All settings are as default, so high gain and DSD64.

 

[twister6]

I got a few questions from people asking me about RU7 burn in while charging their smartphone (or DAP) as well as just listening to a dongle while charging the source. I figured it will be easier to reply in this thread so others can benefit. We all know, dongles like RU7 don't have a built in battery. You connect it to usb-c or lightning port of your smartphone (Android or iPhone) or DAP where it gets its digital input and also draws the power from. With smartphone you can do wireless charging while having dongle connected, though you could be discharging at a higher rate than charging. Other solution for either smartphone or DAP is to use a splitter with a power OTG end to connect the dongle and also to connect the charging cable. Splitters or camera kits (iPhone) are bulky. It works, but not exactly the most elegant solution.

What I'm using is @ddHiFi TC28i Pro lightning to usb-c OTG adapter (for iPhone) and TC28C Pro usb-c to usb-c OTG adapter (for Android phone or DAPs). Those have a very small footprint, either usb-c (TC28C Pro) or lightning (TC28i Pro) connectors going to the source, and 2 usb-c ports, one OTG to send through the digital output and one Power port for the charger input.




Just as an example, I have N7 with TC28C Pro and iPhone XS Max with TC28i Pro and I had Anker powerbank connected just to show that sources are charging.

 

[daijobudes]

I got a few questions from people asking me about RU7 burn in while charging their smartphone (or DAP) as well as just listening to a dongle while charging the source. I figured it will be easier to reply in this thread so others can benefit. We all know, dongles like RU7 don't have a built in battery. You connect it to usb-c or lightning port of your smartphone (Android or iPhone) or DAP where it gets its digital input and also draws the power from. With smartphone you can do wireless charging while having dongle connected, though you could be discharging at a higher rate than charging. Other solution for either smartphone or DAP is to use a splitter with a power OTG end to connect the dongle and also to connect the charging cable. Splitters or camera kits (iPhone) are bulky. It works, but not exactly the most elegant solution.

What I'm using is @ddHiFi TC28i Pro lightning to usb-c OTG adapter (for iPhone) and TC28C Pro usb-c to usb-c OTG adapter (for Android phone or DAPs). Those have a very small footprint, either usb-c (TC28C Pro) or lightning (TC28i Pro) connectors going to the source, and 2 usb-c ports, one OTG to send through the digital output and one Power port for the charger input.




Just as an example, I have N7 with TC28C Pro and iPhone XS Max with TC28i Pro and I had Anker powerbank connected just to show that sources are charging.

That’s how I use it with iPhone

 

[Jimmy34]

Or you can burn-in and leave your PC on overnight for a few nights?

 

[twister6]

Or you can burn-in and leave your PC on overnight for a few nights?

Oh, absolutely!

The setup above is for my desktop listening as well as burn in. Just sharing what I got. Good to have options, especially something compact instead of those splitter cables.

 

[Jimmy34]

Oh, absolutely!

The setup above is for my desktop listening as well as burn in. Just sharing what I got. Good to have options, especially something compact instead of those splitter cables.

With the price of those USB-C to Lightning cables not being cheap and hardly included with DACs maybe I'll go ahead and get a TC28i Pro to work with every dongle, using regular 15W/30W etc USB-C wall plugs with that while using the DAC works fine charging the phone?

 

[itwasluck]

Yep, just with this one song so far. Why? No idea... Could be faulty hardware, or could be anything else.

Here is the MP3, for others to test on their RU7:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/nia7u4xlu0pw86f/11 - Pink Beam.mp3?dl=0

Wow so I tested this song and its the first time I got any sort of stuttering/audio artifacting! Would be interesting to see why this song in particular is causing problems with the all-DSD conversion. Hopefully one of the engineers can take a look and give us a firmware update to fix this weird "bug".