[googleli]

Dudes... Guess what...

 

[dBel84]

you bought the maggies to use as headphones instead?
 
..dB

 

[Icenine2]

You got it?
Quote:

Dudes... Guess what...

 

 

[googleli]

Nice fabric cover
 

 
The setup
 

 
 
The shiny headphone cable is ALO Audio Reference 16-wire Silver/Copper LCD2/3 headphone cable which came together with the Liquid Fire today
 

 

[sillysally]

Quote:

Thanks Sally. I do have a full 7.1 HT at home with the Oppo 95 as player and the Pioneer LX85 AV amp. Would be great if I can PRIR the thing with a cinema but it seems impossible to do unless I am a cinema owner or know one, which I don't. Second to that I may PRIR in a friend's home which hosts seven big JBL speakers. Also is it possible to use the Realizer but at the same time output the bass to my SVS PC 13 Ultra subwoofer? If it could imitate the bass of a JL Audio subwoofer at my friend's home it would be great but I doubt if any headphone can reproduce the bass of a real subwoofer.
 
The power cord I use is frankly a compromise compared to the Siltech G7 Ruby Hill II and Isotek Syncro I use for the Esoteric K-01 and Leben at home. I just intended to buy a cheap cable for office use, just to power up the amp and get a feel of its signature first then fine tune later. Will switch between this cable and the Burmester power cord I am using for the Rega to see which suits which better though. Will certainly get a better one such as Siltech or Transparent once I have a feel of how it sounds like with the Telefunkens and the LCD3.
 
Also, for the LCD3, do you use the upper or lower headphone jack?

Yes I use the Oppo BDP-95 but with the new upgraded Realisers HDMI ports it is kinda a waist. As you know HDMI bypasses the analog conversion's and sends a LPCM digital signal. There is a lot more to that story also.
Yes I can help with your sub question, just post it in the Realiser thread.
 
I used the High imp jack for the LCD-3. This was recommended by Cavalli for use with the HE-6 or LCD's, and after going back and forth imo of-course he is correct.
However after all the different combos I tried with the LCD-3's I found that by turning down the volume level from -3 to -9 on the Realiser gave me the best results for the LCD-3.
 
Have fun with your new Liquid Fire, as I am sure you will.

 

 

[googleli]

Amazing.........

 

[sillysally]

Quote:

Amazing.........

 

 

[googleli]

Quick question here: When the manual says don't turn on the amp continuously otherwise tube life will be shortened etc, does it mean the front power switch only or I need to turn off the whole thing (the switch at the back)?

 

[sachu]

Quote:

Quick question here: When the manual says don't turn on the amp continuously otherwise tube life will be shortened etc, does it mean the front power switch only or I need to turn off the whole thing (the switch at the back)?

Just the front power switch will do which will put it in "stand by" mode. But if you can turn it off completely, i'd do that.

 

[wuwhere]

Yea man, you don't want any ac line spike to kill your brand new expensive toy

 

[MorbidToaster]

That Ref 16 is ridonk, yo. 
 
Jealous of that amp though...and the tubes you've got for it

 

[googleli]

The number "16" does sound ridiculous even to me but once I get it I am actually quite surprised. The way it is weaved does not look like it has 16 wires at all and it is actually quite light, much lighter than my previous Norse 8 wire conductor cable for the LCD2, and also very flexible, almost as flexible as the Norse Litz cable. Looks really nice under light too. As for sound I will need some time. I have brought the Norse Litz cable home to continue burn in with the LCD2, and after I have got a couple hundred hours on both I will do a direct comparison using the LCD3. 

 

[googleli]

I am sure the LF is built to last, but looking at the brightness of the power button and the indicator lights, I suspect the parts which will go out soonest will be those little light bulbs...
Quote:

I'll have my grandson get with yours once he graduates from college and provide feedback as to the LF endurance. My son just turned 18 months last week so it shouldn't be too long now.

 


 

 
 

 

[runeight]

Well, maybe not.

 
Even though they seem bright, those LEDs are running at half their maximum currents for just this reason (also to reduce the brightness, believe it or not).
 
The LEDs on the board are part of the circuit and are running well below their maximums.
 
I guess we'll see ...

 

[googleli]

Alex, thanks for making this great product and bringing it to the market for fellow Head-fiers. Not only do you make it sound good with headphones, your thoughts on the indicators, the switch and safety (detection of headphone jack) are also top notch which I cannot see in other amps such as my Leben.
 
I have a couple of questions if you don't mind. I noticed that on the box it says 240V rather than 220V which I requested ALO Audio to make. Sorry for my ignorance in engineering, but would 220V AC compromise the sound quality, tube life or safety given that the LF is wired to 240V?
 
Second question - do you recommend turning off the unit from the back switch every time I leave office, or should I keep the power on, if the chance of electric surge is really low? I believe my office building has surge protection for its AC outlets (I will check with office management to confirm tomorrow). Would switching the main power on and off every time defeat the purpose of the front switch, which you specifically chose to use because of its endurance, and would switching off and on the main switch lengthen the warm up time every time I power on?
 
Many thanks again for bringing this product to us. Now I will seriously consider the Liquid Lightning for my SR009 after some impressions come out. I do hope the Liquid Lightning will be on par with if not surpassing the BHSE - in that case I will be able to get out of the dilemma of getting something inferior vs getting the best but need to wait 2 years for it...