CARY CAD 300sei or other 300b amp owners, share your 300B tube rolling experience pls
Dec 16, 2013 at 3:09 PM Post #31 of 63
guys,
 
this stuff above the white base.  is it adhesive?  Also, are there 300B that does not have black inside marks over time?
thanks!
 

 
Jan 18, 2014 at 4:29 PM Post #33 of 63
Just got these 2 days ago.  A little tricky setting the bias, but after 20 hours or so, they are playing the best Bach organ that I have ever "felt" with my LCD-3.  Yes, I am feeling the bass with these Russian tubes.
 

 
Mar 10, 2014 at 12:15 PM Post #35 of 63
Yes, these are Russian Electro Harmonix 6SN7EH.
Still working after 3 years,
 
Mar 10, 2014 at 6:13 PM Post #37 of 63
Apr 15, 2014 at 11:48 PM Post #38 of 63
I use all old stock military 6SN7 tubes and valve art 300b.
 
I'm not going to talk about the 6sn7... there is no substitute for NOS. Enough said. 
 
Valve Art is hands down best sound til you get to the western 300b. THERE I SAID IT. I have heard it all in this amp. I have retired the Western 300b (in safe keeping) that came with my original purchase 16 years ago with the custom gold face plate and old point to point soldering. I also sent the amp in for the Cary cap upgrade. I think I'm going vintage soon for caps. Any who I work for an audio dealer and have found this amp to be one of the best for its price point in what it offers for sound. 300b is a tough one to do right. 
 
The Western 300b is the holy grail, make no mistake fellas, but the Valve Art really is the next best thing. 
 
Ive tried all that Sophia has had to offer and it just adds a certain edge to the music and takes away the natural sound of the 300b. Makes it over all thinner sounding and over analytical  ... Not what I want out of my 300b. Mesh plate gold pin whatever... YOU FAIL 
 
JJ tubes.... that's all I'm going to write about that... be thankful you have a line on this post. 
 
For all the boutique brands who claim to make the next best thing to a original WE tube and charge boat loads... nice try... The store I work for is one of the largest western electric dealers in the US. I have seen the replicas and the originals.... the level of craftsman ship that WE offers is by far better than anything that can be produced today. So before you shell out close to a grand in replicas, up your game like a big boy and get the real deal. Worth saving the pennies and a 300b runs foreverrrrrr. Also dont Bias it to the full 160 it recommends. I like 150... sounds sweeter and smoother. Still holds all the detail and fullness you are looking plus is less strain on the tubes. 
 
Save your dollars for WE 300b if you can find em :wink: or give Valve art a try... They are cheap, come matched and in my opinion come the closest to the real deal... some of my amp builders who build custom amps using vintage parts ( Trans,caps, etc) claim its even better. 
 
The Gospel if you will... 
 
Jun 6, 2015 at 12:47 AM Post #40 of 63
So, my 300SEI was turned on accidentally with a cotton cheese cloth on top.  After a strong starchy smell filled my office, a large chunk of the cloth solidified onto the highest parts of the 300B tubes.  They almost burn through the cheese cloth.  Very lucky the amp worked after I let it cool.
 
Now, I tried some 97% isopropyl Alcohol attempting to remove the melted on cotton.  Managed to remove just a little.  Anyone with suggestions how to remove it all?
Thank goodness they were not my Western Electrics.  Still, they were great Russians under $400.
 
Thank again!
 
BTW, any suggestions for new SET 300B that glows and sound great? 
 
Jun 16, 2015 at 3:17 PM Post #41 of 63
Replacement for my Western Electric 300B (1960s) for the time being.
waiting for Takatsuki 300B to arrive.
 
Have no idea how these really sound.  only 6 hours into the burn. Playing tracks at 65db - 70db overnight.  The lack of noise was great.
looks really sharp, but a loose fit into the tube socket.  Does not affect the sound.
Initial meter reading with EML 300BXLS was almost 180mA on the Cary 300SEI.  The previous with WE 300B was 158.5mA.
 
 
 

 
 
 

 
Feb 26, 2016 at 6:48 AM Post #42 of 63
  Replacement for my Western Electric 300B (1960s) for the time being.
waiting for Takatsuki 300B to arrive.
 
Have no idea how these really sound.  only 6 hours into the burn. Playing tracks at 65db - 70db overnight.  The lack of noise was great.
looks really sharp, but a loose fit into the tube socket.  Does not affect the sound.
Initial meter reading with EML 300BXLS was almost 180mA on the Cary 300SEI.  The previous with WE 300B was 158.5mA.
 
 
 

 
 
 


I think the suggested eml burn in is every 4 hours but of course that's kind of impractical.  How do the tak sound compared to the eml in the 300sei?  Also, the genalex are rated at 100ma max I think.
 
Feb 26, 2016 at 8:26 AM Post #43 of 63
 
I think the suggested eml burn in is every 4 hours but of course that's kind of impractical.  How do the tak sound compared to the eml in the 300sei?  Also, the genalex are rated at 100ma max I think.

 
Over 1500 hours since I posted that Last summer on balloons and the Japs.
The Japs are so buttery.  Can't tell between it and original 1958 WE300B.  I recommend them.
gold lions are much higher than 100mA
 
Feb 26, 2016 at 5:22 PM Post #44 of 63
   
Over 1500 hours since I posted that Last summer on balloons and the Japs.
The Japs are so buttery.  Can't tell between it and original 1958 WE300B.  I recommend them.
gold lions are much higher than 100mA

Are you still using 300bxls but the same eh input tubes?  Are you going to try nos 6sn7 it will improve the sound somewhat.
 
Feb 26, 2016 at 8:27 PM Post #45 of 63
  Are you still using 300bxls but the same eh input tubes?  Are you going to try nos 6sn7 it will improve the sound somewhat.

 
I have ancient  Sylvania on one 300 SEI.  the one is the office still has the originals  Works fine with KR Audio, EML, WE and British Genalexs.
The big difference on this baby is through 300B, 6SN7 makes smaller difference.
 

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