ok I'm still not getting how any of this applies to my car setup, I have full range units in the front doors that incorporate a tweeter, the tweeter is located physically in the same place as the mid range driver and looking at my door I don't think I even have space for a separate tweeter.
Because it got confusing when you said you had a tweeter, I assumed you had a car that came out in 2006 or later which have their own tweeter pods but at teh wrong angle even for their own tweeters and can't fit aftermarket tweeters, and when you said "fullrange but it has a tweeter" (sic) it's even harder to recommend because we can't tell if an aftermarket coaxial speaker can fit wherever it's mounted because aftermarket coax speakers are either crap or have HUGE grills where the tweeters are and might not be able to allow the door panel to go back over it when mounted.
Also I just have even more questions as to how you set up the time alignment directly, because back when I assumed the tweeter was set separately you didn't say how they're wired up exactly, then now turns out it's a coax, but if you had set the 80PRS to full active, how did you wire the tweeter directly to the 80PRS, and most likely you didn't, so there are two outputs on the 80PRS not going anywhere, which can explain your need for clarity, but then you said it was "fine" and you're "satisfied," so now I'm confused why the need to replace anything much less with the obsession for GIGO and 24/96.
Even if I squeezed in a separate tweeter it would be a matter of probably 3 to 4 inches from the centre of the mid range driver.
Geometry.
3 to 4 inches between midwoofer and tweeter matters less if you're sitting 10ft away as the distance from your head to the midwoofer and from your head to the tweeter will have the variance reduced compared to sitting barely two feet away, the head nearly three feet away but higher than both speakers that aren't angled upward...
I use my 80 PRS with just a small amount of EQ, so in effect it's just a class D amp, I don't think I'll miss the EQ and I'm saying some better quality front speakers would most likely make up for any loss in the EQ settings I apply.
OK.
Now I'm even more confused.
If I hook up an HT pre-pro to a Nelson Pass First Watt Class A amplifier, that Nelson Pass First Watt Class A amplifier doesn't turn into a Class D Tripath amplifier. It's still a Nelson Pass First Watt Class A amplifier.
Same thing when you use the Class A/B
MOSFET amplifier on the 80PRS. Using EQ doesn't turn it into Class D.
You've got a better chance of turning lead into gold but you need to find the Infinity Gems first and use them on the Infinity Gauntlet than adding EQ miraculously transforms a Class A or A/B amplifier into Class D.
Are you thinking that Class
D stands for "
Digital?" Because that's marketing fluff riding on the digital bandwagon. There's nothing digital about Class D, it still takes an analogue waveform and then amplifies that waveform.
The closest thing to a digital amp is the newer PWM amps where there is no longer any analogue input, and the DAC feeds directly into the driver stage, skipping what would normally be a DAC output stage that feeds into an amp input stage and then the preamplifier/rectifier circuit.
Tried time alignment on the way home, it sounded ok but when I turned it off, boom - so much better, proper full audio spectrum. Time alignment sounds like a hall effect, seems to recess the vocals as well which is where I EQ at, I've tried so many Dolby this that and the other effects, virtual this that and other, virtual 7.1 and so on, they're all junk in my opinion for music.
Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaand that's why I'm asking how exactly they're wired to the 80PRS because if your coaxials on the door has only one pair of cables sticking out of it and the tweeter is wired to a capacitor in there, activating 6-Way Time Alignment* or 3-Way*8 Full Active means
your coaxial speakers are only getting the signal meant for the midwoofer or tweeter, depending on whether you have that single cable on each side hooked up on the 80PRS amplifier.
6-way Time Alignment doesn't work if you don't have a path from each tweeter and midwoofer to the HU (or a standalone DSP), regardless of whether there's an amp between them and the HU.
*2 x tweeters, 2 x midwoofers, 2 x subwoofers; 5-way with one subwoofer is possible, terminology just highlights that you can set different delays on six speakers to sync
**3-way as in "3-Way per side," Full Active denotes it's actually "6-Way"
Yes I get time alignment for matching speakers positioned in different places but I don't have that and neither do I want it, I'm satisfied with full range units that incorporate a tweeter
That's fine,
but you still need to understand that:
1. Better coax speakers might not fit.
2. Obsessing over the DAC quality isn't going to make as much of a difference in upgrade as a better coax much less a proper component set with separate tweeters (assuming this is properly installed/angled, much less time aligned).
I'd argue that sound clarity is not the same as sound detail, you won't get detail without clarity but I'd say you can have clarity but lacking in detail. For me it's the difference between a 8MP picture and a 20MP picture, the 8MP is clear but hasn't got the detail compared to the 20MP picture, there's just more information there.
You're forgetting one thing:
noise.
A 20mp Nex-7 can have sooooooooooooooooooooooooooo much noise that that noise will obscure details anyway thanks to how they packed the pixel density for the time when packing more than 16mp into an APS-C sensor is a problem. Same thing as in a moving car - you have the engine rumbling, the exhaust, the wind on the tyres and the tyres rolling on the pavement, wind everywhere else, other cars, etc that that added detail isn't going to be audible outside of parking the car and listening with the engine off in an empty parking lot or in an EMMA event where they have the subwoofer blasting people far away and tell everybody to shut up while judging is going on. And even if the details were there you're more likely to hear an out of whack soundstage than those minute microdetails.
You might as well skip the Nex-7 and 10-18mm and just use something like an OM-D E-M5 on a 12mm lens, take five portrait shots sweeping landscape, and just stitch them together in Lightroom.
So I have reasonable clarity but I'm lacking the detail that Tidal is offering and that's what I want to hear, the detail. I'm frustrated and annoyed that my head unit can't handle 24/96, it wasn't a cheap head unit, so I'm happy to remove it from my audio chain
That's because it's for people who don't want to have an out of whack soundstage and can understand that even vinyl has lower resolution but can still have comparable resolution as long as you're not getting distracted by a badly worn out copy that has Snap, Crackle, and Pop on it.
BTW listen to an artist called Arlissa, the emotion she conveys is amazing, that's what detail is all about hearing singers like this at max detail with no rubbishy digital pokery and compression.
All digital is pokery and compression next to vinyl, but in the end if you sit in a proper home system where only the source and source material changes, the format itself as long as you're not using MP3 doesn't matter as much as the mastering. And that's in a quiet room with no reflections and proper pathlengths, which knocks down that 320kbps problem down in a car environment where there is a bigger problem.
Oh and I can hear Jane Monheit breathing just fine in a quiet room even on 16/44.1. Disable the T/A in my (properly wired up) car system and the imaging is all over the place it can't even be called imaging.
So I don't see how replacing the 80 PRS class D amp with a better class A/B amp, a 32bit 384Khz DAC and better full range speakers will sound worse or bad and as I've said I'm content with what I currently have just frustrated I can't stream 24bit 96K audio but now everyone will start flaming me because I know nothing and I need DSPs, time alignment, 6 speakers, 3 way speakers, RTA, EQ, pro installs haha flame away
1. It's not a Class D amp
2. Because you're not...screw it, just scroll back. I already painted this out in digital crayon.
3. Explaining something is not "flaming."
And no to class D amps, any amp that creates the output from high frequency pulse width modulation in my opinion isn't up to the job, that's not to say there isn't good class D amps and rubbish A/B ones but class A/B is definitely my preference for driving front full range speakers. Class D for lots of power and low heat - yes, great for driving subs, my current sub shakes all the mirrors, I don't need more bass and no it's not muddy flappy bass it's tight clean bass.
Except the 80PRS isn't packing a Class D amp and amp topology is the least of your problems second only to audio copy and playback resolution.
Look it's a
modest car audio upgrade, think of it like that
I won't be taking it to a car audio sound off, it's a budget system that I'll hopefully enjoy listening to. I'm not expecting it to be massive audio boost that you might hear from switching from Spotify to Tidal.
1. Your "modest upgrade" can complicate the system enough that the only solution will just further complicate it, which you're not willing to accept works and just call it "pokery and hogwash"
2. You can hear the massive differnece from Spotify to Tidal when both left and right channel drivers are equidistant to your head and you're not dealing with a crap ton of reflections and road noise. Otherwise all those other things will just be more audible problems than Spotify's compression will ever be.
.. If he doesn't, the experience will be more convincing than any amount of words.