Burson Conductor - DAC/amp successor to the HA-160D
Aug 23, 2013 at 9:49 AM Post #856 of 1,995
Here's a question I have been wanting to ask forever - In Windows 7 programs, there is Burson Audio USB Dac Asyn. I click on it and get Burson Audio USB Dac Control Panel (Galaxy Far East). I click this and see - Asio Driver Status - Non Active and Stop. Below that is ASIO Buffer Size - Auto Adjustment has an arrow and the #12032 - And beneath is Bits Per Sample, 16bits and mine is checked at 24bits. I have left this alone but what is it for??
 
Aug 23, 2013 at 2:09 PM Post #857 of 1,995
Quote:
Here's a question I have been wanting to ask forever - In Windows 7 programs, there is Burson Audio USB Dac Asyn. I click on it and get Burson Audio USB Dac Control Panel (Galaxy Far East). I click this and see - Asio Driver Status - Non Active and Stop. Below that is ASIO Buffer Size - Auto Adjustment has an arrow and the #12032 - And beneath is Bits Per Sample, 16bits and mine is checked at 24bits. I have left this alone but what is it for??

Me to with Vista its like that its checked at 24 bits but below that this is written  it says its at 16 bits altought 24 bits is checked and on the player (Musicbee)Asio is used and its says 16 bits but i cant change it to 24 bits can only ajust latency.Dont understand either!
 
  

 
Aug 23, 2013 at 2:22 PM Post #858 of 1,995
TL;DR: music plays at max volume, and volume knob/input selectors do nothing.
 
Fixed ! for anyone searching the forum for the same symptoms, the cables that link the volume knob and input buttons where simply disconnected. Opening the top and plugging them back fixed everything.
 
--
 
My apologies if the question as already been asked/answered, but I did not find anything using the search tool.
 
I received my Conductor this morning, and when switched on, I only have the blue power led that is active. The input and gain selection indicators are not lit up, and the switches do nothing at all. 
 
After installing the drivers on Windows, I can hear the music perfectly fine, BUT the volume knob does absolutely nothing. The volume is controlled by the OS, but if I turn the volume knob from 0 to the max, the volume does not change at all, and is only influenced by the OS mixer settings. And also at the same time, the input/gain indicators are still off and do not react to my commands.
confused.gif

 
I have plugged in the conductor to my Mac at home, installed the drivers, and have exactly the same symptoms. Also, in OSX the device is seen as 'Burson Audio USB DAC' and with the mention "The selected device has no outputs controls". Also, the master volume control on the OS is greyed out, and I can only lower the volume in my player (otherwise the sound level is very high coming out of my cans)
 
I have tried switching to the TOS link using an optical cable, but I'm not able to select that input on the front panel because the buttons do not react. If I do a sound test in the OS, i just hear very loud statics but nothing else. I tried with or without the USB cable plugged in.
 
I've had a Burson 160D plugged to the same computers for a while now, and the volume knob does do its job, and it is also seen as a "Buron Audio USB DAC" but on that device I can control the volume ...
 
I spent all day on the windows computer trying different settings/programs/incantations, but to avail.
 
Does anyone have any idea?
 
So to sum up:
- I have installed the drivers from the burson.com website, rebooted. On Windows and on Mac
- As soon as I start playing music, I hear a clic and the music plays fine, except at maximum volume
- The volume knob on the burson has absolutely no influence on the sound level
- The input and gain leds are all off, and their respective buttons do absolutely nothing.
- I only hear a clic and music when I start playing something in iTunes, foobar or VLC. No clic when switching on, or pressing the input buttons
- A burson 160D connected on the same computer does work fine, with volume and input being responsive...
- Using the OS to lower the volume, the sound quality is absolutely fine.
 
Aug 23, 2013 at 2:29 PM Post #859 of 1,995
Quote:
Me to with Vista its like that its checked at 24 bits but below that this is written  it says its at 16 bits altought 24 bits is checked and on the player (Musicbee)Asio is used and its says 16 bits but i cant change it to 24 bits can only ajust latency.Dont understand either!
 
  

They're definitely different settings so maybe someone can help??
 
Aug 23, 2013 at 2:36 PM Post #860 of 1,995
I'm currently experience some issues myself, not sure if its software problem or hardware problem.
When I started to use ASIO, suddenly the music/sound stops working and I have to turn the PC off or change to Wasapi for it to work. 
Is this the famous USB bug with the conductor?
 
Aug 23, 2013 at 2:54 PM Post #861 of 1,995
Quote:
TL;DR: music plays at max volume, and volume knob/input selectors do nothing.
 
My apologies if the question as already been asked/answered, but I did not find anything using the search tool.
 
I received my Conductor this morning, and when switched on, I only have the blue power led that is active. The input and gain selection indicators are not lit up, and the switches do nothing at all. 
 
After installing the drivers on Windows, I can hear the music perfectly fine, BUT the volume knob does absolutely nothing. The volume is controlled by the OS, but if I turn the volume knob from 0 to the max, the volume does not change at all, and is only influenced by the OS mixer settings. And also at the same time, the input/gain indicators are still off and do not react to my commands.
confused.gif

 
I have plugged in the conductor to my Mac at home, installed the drivers, and have exactly the same symptoms. Also, in OSX the device is seen as 'Burson Audio USB DAC' and with the mention "The selected device has no outputs controls". Also, the master volume control on the OS is greyed out, and I can only lower the volume in my player (otherwise the sound level is very high coming out of my cans)
 
I have tried switching to the TOS link using an optical cable, but I'm not able to select that input on the front panel because the buttons do not react. If I do a sound test in the OS, i just hear very loud statics but nothing else. I tried with or without the USB cable plugged in.
 
I've had a Burson 160D plugged to the same computers for a while now, and the volume knob does do its job, and it is also seen as a "Buron Audio USB DAC" but on that device I can control the volume ...
 
I spent all day on the windows computer trying different settings/programs/incantations, but to avail.
 
Does anyone have any idea?
 
So to sum up:
- I have installed the drivers from the burson.com website, rebooted. On Windows and on Mac
- As soon as I start playing music, I hear a clic and the music plays fine, except at maximum volume
- The volume knob on the burson has absolutely no influence on the sound level
- The input and gain leds are all off, and their respective buttons do absolutely nothing.
- I only hear a clic and music when I start playing something in iTunes, foobar or VLC. No clic when switching on, or pressing the input buttons
- A burson 160D connected on the same computer does work fine, with volume and input being responsive...
- Using the OS to lower the volume, the sound quality is absolutely fine.

From what you describe in my opinion it's a defective unit. Are you sure the ac switch on the back is in the right position? I would be in contact with the vendor and ask for a replacement asap.
 
Aug 23, 2013 at 3:03 PM Post #862 of 1,995
Yes it is in 230V (correct position). Also, I just realized that if i shake the amp lightly, I can hear something like a cable jigging near the front panel right where the input/gain buttons are located. My guess is that the cables the hook up these to the main board must have been unplugged during travel or something, and so the main board must be thinking that the volume knob is at the maximum position... that would explain the volume at max and buttons unresponsive. And probably the default input is USB so that's how I'm hearing sound ...
 
Do you guys know of a way to make the amp auto switch to TOS optical link, without touching the buttons ?
 
I could open the amp and fix it in 2 seconds, but I don't have the correct sized tool for the screw (looks like Torx ?) and also don't want to void the warranty if it's something worse than that :/
 
My luck must have ran out at one point, i guess ... :,(
 
Aug 23, 2013 at 6:59 PM Post #864 of 1,995
Quote:
Yes it is in 230V (correct position). Also, I just realized that if i shake the amp lightly, I can hear something like a cable jigging near the front panel right where the input/gain buttons are located. My guess is that the cables the hook up these to the main board must have been unplugged during travel or something, and so the main board must be thinking that the volume knob is at the maximum position... that would explain the volume at max and buttons unresponsive. And probably the default input is USB so that's how I'm hearing sound ...
 
Do you guys know of a way to make the amp auto switch to TOS optical link, without touching the buttons ?
 
I could open the amp and fix it in 2 seconds, but I don't have the correct sized tool for the screw (looks like Torx ?) and also don't want to void the warranty if it's something worse than that :/
 
My luck must have ran out at one point, i guess ... :,(


The cable that attaches to the volume control may have come off.  If you're comfortable doing this, open the top cover by removing the four hex screws, you can use a hex tool, and lifting the cover up and off and check for that loose cable your hearing.  It's gray in color with two smaller wires coming out of it to a white two pin connector that plugs into the back of the volume control.
 
Aug 24, 2013 at 3:39 AM Post #866 of 1,995
Not better, different :)
 
Aug 24, 2013 at 5:54 AM Post #867 of 1,995
Quote:
Not better, different
smily_headphones1.gif

Traian is right. Both presentations are good.
 
These are my first thoughts:
 
The pcm has bigger soundstage, more air between the istruments, the sound is a little more relaxed, the positioning seems a little better.
 
The sabre has more energy, more details, better transient response, deeper and punchier bass.
 
With lcd2 I seem to like the pcm more because it opens them up quite nice.
 
With HD800 i think i like the sabre version, because it gives more bass, punch and tactility to it.
 
Bare it mind that these are my first impressions, and they might change a little during proper testing.
 
Aug 24, 2013 at 6:08 AM Post #868 of 1,995
Quote:
The cable that attaches to the volume control may have come off.  If you're comfortable doing this, open the top cover by removing the four hex screws, you can use a hex tool, and lifting the cover up and off and check for that loose cable your hearing.  It's gray in color with two smaller wires coming out of it to a white two pin connector that plugs into the back of the volume control.

 
On that picture (http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/burson10/open.png) I see two cables, one coming from the volume knob, and another one from the bottom left that looks like the cables for the LEDs and buttons... Either both got disconnected (?) or maybe someone forgot to plug them in during manufacturing ?
 
Either way, thanks for tip, I'll try to open it and look inside. I will have to buy a set of hex screwdrivers because the ones I have are too small.
 
Edit:
 
Well yes after opening the top, both cables are indeed disconnected. And it doesn't look like they snapped during transport, it clearly looks like someone forgot to plug them because they were neatly tucked on the side...
blink.gif

 
Anyway after connecting them both, now everything works perfectly !!!!
 
Thanks for the help
beerchug.gif

 
Aug 24, 2013 at 9:56 AM Post #869 of 1,995
Quote:
 
On that picture (http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/burson10/open.png) I see two cables, one coming from the volume knob, and another one from the bottom left that looks like the cables for the LEDs and buttons... Either both got disconnected (?) or maybe someone forgot to plug them in during manufacturing ?
 
Either way, thanks for tip, I'll try to open it and look inside. I will have to buy a set of hex screwdrivers because the ones I have are too small.
 
Edit:
 
Well yes after opening the top, both cables are indeed disconnected. And it doesn't look like they snapped during transport, it clearly looks like someone forgot to plug them because they were neatly tucked on the side...
blink.gif

 
Anyway after connecting them both, now everything works perfectly !!!!
 
Thanks for the help
beerchug.gif


Now you can sit back and enjoy the music!
darthsmile.gif

 
Aug 25, 2013 at 1:40 AM Post #870 of 1,995
Quote:
 Hi i'm new to head fi. long time audiophile. i have conductor, dynaudio 110a, akg 701s, sony c555es sacd/cd, onkyo nd-s1 ipod transport tos to conductor, sony is coaxial to conductor. windows vista -usb. i'm having a problem with coaxial. if onkyo is turned on coaxial won't lock on signal. if turn toslink source off/on/off conductor locks on coaxial as long as toslink source is off.  has anybody else had a problem? anybody running a coaxial and toslink source? love my conductor, this is strange. 

I have the same problem (a relais is klicking on/off) connecting the Burson Conductor with a pro-ject CD Box S via coaxial. The pro-ject hasn't a toslink. With a Creek Evolution CD player it doesn't work at all via coax.  Only if I use parallel a toslink cable, the creek and the conductor are working. Doesn't matter if I switch to "T" or "C" on the Burson. Verz strange. Someone knows a solution? I like to use the use the pro-ject CD Box as transporter to the Burson,
 

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