[amphead]

I will leave it for some others to recommend a case, but if you are willing to spend another $15.00, you could go for the 370DAX. However the 270DAX works fine. Purchase either from angela.com

Well, I countersunk one of the knobs about 3/8 inch today. It looks very nice. I am going to start on the second knob this evening. Because I have a small craftsmen drill press, I can't use a forstner bit. So......how did I do it? I mounted a shaft onto my aluminum knob and the shaft fits the hole on the front panel without any wiggle room. I epoxied some 36 grit sandpaper to the bottom of the knob after sliding it on a hole provided in the paper and onto the shaft. After the epoxy dried I repeatedly ground the knob around and around,until a 1/16 inch deep round groove was worn in. This provides a precise hole size around the knobs. Then I took my woodcarving tool and chipped out the wood to create a 3/8 inch deep recess. Then I followed again with the sandpaper knob and ground the finish smooth, at the 3/8 inch depth. I then peeled off the sandpaper and cleaned the knob and put it on the front panel. It looks really good. Can you say tendonitis?

 

[amphead]

The Wima polypropylene caps arrived today, and I will remove the MKT caps and replace those with the MKP tonight. Last night I finished recessing the second knob and they both look good. The other task is to mount the pots on to my shaft extensions. The shafts on the pots were 1 and 1/4 inches too short in my situation with a thick chassis.

 

[amphead]

Wimas were installed, after a short fight with the MKT polyester caps. I bend my leads onto the board, so removing is a little more difficult. Now to get my RCA jacks. Just the cheap ones for now, but possibly WBT in the future. Waiting on 140 feet of silver plated teflon 22awg, which will be here in a couple of days.

 

[Hudson]

Anyone in the uk building a bijou? I'm having trouble sourcing a suitable traffo from a uk supplier, can anyone point me in the right direction please.
Cheers.

 

[amphead]

I'm not sure what to recommend for the tranny, but I wouldn't be surprised if you end up ordering the 370DAX from angela.com, which has the primaries voltage used in the UK. You would be looking at $59.00 for the transformer and about $30.00 shipping to the UK. With the dollar to pound conversion, it might work out OK.

Tonight, I cut some pass-throughs into the top plate for wiring. This build will be a top-mount design. Please no torches and pitchforks, I know the bottom mount design is a very good solution as well.

 

[dBel84]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hudson /img/forum/go_quote.gif Anyone in the uk building a bijou? I'm having trouble sourcing a suitable traffo from a uk supplier, can anyone point me in the right direction please. Cheers.

SOWTER will do one for you , but it will cost more than either the r-core from HK or the hammond.


No pitchforks allowed here amphead

..dB

 

[Mazuki]

I would go with the R-core from Hong Kong. It's the cheapest and doesn't run too bad either.

 

[Hudson]

Ok thanks for the replies everyone, I shall have a good search over the weekend. I did check out Sowter, but yeah, they're pricey, I'll probbly ship something in from abroad.
Cheers.

 

[amphead]

Today, I created a 12 volt dc power supply on perf board, for the Bulgin latching illuminated switch. I used a Radio Shack 12vac transformer, a full wave bridge and a 680 ohm dropping resistor for the illuminated/led on the switch.(Thats overkill, but Bulgin switches often lose their built-in leds due to some mistake.) I installed the power supply underneath and wired it to the iec jack. I thought about making it illuminate only when the power button is on, but decided to have it illuminated anytime the iec is plugged in. I installed and wired up the Bulgin switch. Nice blue ring glow. Other than the heater leds , there will be some led indication of the power-on for the amplifier, later in the design and powered off of the 12vdc power supply. High Voltage/transformer test tommorrow.

 

[amphead]

Received the shipment of 22awg teflon mil-spec wire. Even though its rated for 600v, it is as skinny as 24awg because the insulation is so thin. It shoud be easy to work with. Currently, I am wiring up the transformer and fuse/holder to the iec jack, with 20awg teflon. Secondaries check to follow.

 

[bhjazz]

Quote:

Originally Posted by amphead /img/forum/go_quote.gif Today, I created a 12 volt dc power supply on perf board, for the Bulgin latching illuminated switch. I used a Radio Shack 12vac transformer, a full wave bridge and a 680 ohm dropping resistor for the illuminated/led on the switch.

Brilliant! I was wondering where you were going to extract 12 v from. Coolio, man!

 

[da_burl]

I just built up my boards, and my casework is in progress. I am pretty new to woodworking, so my prototype is "Select Pine" 1x6 from Home Depot

I will probably just sand it, put a round edge on the butt joints, and paint it or use some cheap veneer or laminate for now. I "think" I could transfer it to another case pretty easily (transferring, not building the case)

I am going to try to use a router to cut recesses for the IEC input jack and the power switch on the back panel, but if I screw that up, I'll probably cut a larger rectangle out and put an aluminum panel on the back.
I can't quite finish because I accidentally ordered 47uF 250v for C6 in the power supply. I was downsizing the voltage rating on some of the caps based on the "other" thread over at that other place, but this one looks like it really does need to be 450v. I think I could leave it out just to test it, but I am just not real sure of the impact of doing this, so I think I'll just wait it out.
I used PRP resistors exclusively in the amp boards, but had to get a few V/D's on the power supply.
I am also thinking of having the output electrolytic and film bypass caps mounted off the board for experimentation. Got some Sonicap Gen II's to try there first.
It's hard to wait, but I know it will turn out better in the long run if I don't try to rush it now

I've got a few other things to do anyway on the case and I could start the wiring up between boards and xformer too. Without power of course.

 

[amphead]

Good to know Da-burl! Keep us up to date on your progress.

After carefully isolating all unused leads on the transformer, I checked for secondary voltage with the Bulgin switch doing the honors. Everthing is close to what would be expected for floating secondaries. 284-0-284vac and 6.5vac. The primary winding is wired per angela.com suggestion for 370DAX at 120vac, with black and blue wires combined on one leg and brown and white wires combined on the other leg. The power supply should be able to provide 250v B+ from this, as opposed to wiring the primary for 110vac.

 

[amphead]

Although, it isn't necessary to use a terminal strip in this design, I decided to add one for the 260-0-260vac and the 63vac. It gives the wiring a tidy appearance. I also added wire-tie mounts and ties. I clipped/isolated the unused transformer leads. Power supply board to be energized soon.

 

[exphy]

is it just me or does glassjar audio not sell kits anymore?