Bicycle-Fi!
Dec 10, 2008 at 11:12 PM Post #212 of 4,427
Quote:

Originally Posted by TheRobbStory /img/forum/go_quote.gif
NICE. I kinda wish I got in on the BF groupbuy when that was still going on.

With the exception of an old Aegis I rode for a few months, I've never spent much time on a composite frame.

How do you like yours?



I missed the group buy on the RS2, but got in on their MTB frame. I picked up with RS2 used (4 hours total
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) for just less than the group buy price.

Its a pretty nice frame. I recently rode an 09 S-Works Roubaix... it doesn't ride as smooth as that frame, but it feels (to me at least) just as stiff at the headtube and BB. Technically, the Roubaix should be stiffer, but I can't tell the difference. However, the Roubaix is just pure silk on the road. Those Zertz inserts really do work!

I can definitely tell the difference between my CAAD9 and the RS2. A much more comfortable ride without sacrificing any performance. Actually, up hills and off the line, the RS2 is faster, but that's due to the significantly lighter wheels. Not to mention more aero.

If I had to go back and buy all over again, I'd probably go the same route. Although I think I'd go SRAM Red instead of Dura-Ace, which was my original plan... not unhappy with Dura-Ace, its silky smooth and precise, I just like DoubleTap
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Dec 11, 2008 at 10:42 PM Post #214 of 4,427
Quote:

Originally Posted by ARwCoco /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Is it general consensus that when you need to replace your chain ...

that you should replace the cassette at the same time ?



Not necessarily. But considering general use/lubrication, you'll likely get 2 chains per cassette, and 2-3 cassettes per chainring set.

replacing the cassette depends a bit on how stretched the chain is. putting a new chain on a worn cassette is going to shift like crap, and prematurely wear out your brand new chain, too. Most bike shops will have a chain checker - insist on using a Rohloff tool rather than the park chain checker.

Some questions to keep in mind that have an impact on chain/cassette wear:

what's your cadence? are you a big gear slow cadence type, or a small gear high cadence type? ride in the rain/wet? how often do you clean the drivetrain and what type of lube do you use? do you ride the same loop all the time, and stay in just a few gears?

all these things (and more!) affect how often you replace the chain/cassette.

I've seen one road rider get 13,000 miles out of one chain and one cassette, but I've also seen riders (those damn Tri-geeks...) get only 800 miles out of a poorly maintained drivetrain and poor riding habits.
 
Jan 3, 2009 at 1:07 AM Post #216 of 4,427
Bike folks, i was at the local tip yesterday, dumping off a load of garden cuttings. There was a guy there struggling to remove a bike from the back of his ute, it was caught up in some concrete steel reinforcing sheets. I pulled over and jumped out of the car to give him a hand, when i had a look at what we had untangled from his ute and what it was he was dumping i asked him if it was ok if i had the bike? "No worries champ, i've been meaning to throw it out for months" was his reply.

It turns out to be a near enough mint and original condition Centurion Ironman bike from the mid 80's. Original Shimano 600 equipment- brakes, hubs, indexed gearsets and crankset. Very 80's turqouise and white Tange #1 frame.

Anybody ever come across and know anything about this brand?
 
Jan 3, 2009 at 3:20 AM Post #218 of 4,427
Quote:

Originally Posted by nickyboyo /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Bike folks, i was at the local tip yesterday, dumping off a load of garden cuttings. There was a guy there struggling to remove a bike from the back of his ute, it was caught up in some concrete steel reinforcing sheets. I pulled over and jumped out of the car to give him a hand, when i had a look at what we had untangled from his ute and what it was he was dumping i asked him if it was ok if i had the bike? "No worries champ, i've been meaning to throw it out for months" was his reply.

It turns out to be a near enough mint and original condition Centurion Ironman bike from the mid 80's. Original Shimano 600 equipment- brakes, hubs, indexed gearsets and crankset. Very 80's turqouise and white Tange #1 frame.

Anybody ever come across and know anything about this brand?



Centurion is a Japanese brand that was very popular until the 90s. They sold all kinds of bikes at bike shops and even department stores, and had a low end and high end selection. I don't know too much about the specific model you had, but Tange tubing is a very desirable and sought after, so likely it is a mid-upper end Centurion. Very good find!
 
Jan 3, 2009 at 3:36 AM Post #219 of 4,427
Thank you very much guys. I just knew when i saw the components on this old machine it was a serious piece of kit. The guy who dumped it was a very enthusiastic cyclist judging by our conversation. I am in more need of a general commuter/townie, so i bought the only parts that were missing- inner tubes and tyres, and put on a set of flat bars. I have kept the original racing bars and Shimano 600 levers, just in case i want to put it back to 100% original.
No shame in rescuing a serviceable machine from the demise of the scrap yard, and i guess it is just payment for being a good samaritan.
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Just a few snaps.......(i am over the moon, in case you hadn't of guessed, with this piece of fully functional 80's cycling memorabilia
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)
 
Jan 3, 2009 at 4:58 PM Post #221 of 4,427
Being an old fart I remember the 80's Centurion. It was a very well thought of bike and the Shimano 600 was hard to beat unless you opted for the Dura Ace. So all in all you have a very nice bike which sold for about $800. Enjoy it.
 
Jan 16, 2009 at 11:18 PM Post #225 of 4,427
ouch!

yeah i'm looking at that too, i can understand it on a MTB doing drops but i never got THAT low over the back wheel... i understand how some downhill saddles got big & low, like on MX, but here i think only those who are versed in this black art know the reasons! yep, mine is for sitting on!
 

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