[omniloathe]

Quote:

Note that 250 ohm systems are totally different creatures, they are dead slow in comparison, a 250 ohm version is rather a rumbling Ambient machine IMO.

could you provide more information regarding this point? I'm surprised the 250 and 600 could as huge a diff as u are suggesting.

Quote:

Sonically none. But the DT880 pads, which are concipated for an open HP, don't work here, so the DT770 pads are a choice owing to circumstances.

Even using dt880's pads, should there still be pretty significant changes to the sound?

Also, how does female vocals sound out of the closed back compared to stock?

btw, would the manufacturers be able to discover that I've modded the hp previously if I were to reverse the changes?

 

[nickchen]

Quote:

Originally Posted by omniloathe I'm surprised the 250 and 600 could as huge a diff as u are suggesting.

So was I.
Quote:

Originally Posted by omniloathe Even using dt880's pads, should there still be pretty significant changes to the sound?

Simply doesn't work.
Quote:

Originally Posted by omniloathe Also, how does female vocals sound out of the closed back compared to stock?

More warmth and more energy.

 

[Greg Cox]

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoXter /img/forum/go_quote.gif +++ UPDATE 03-08-2010 +++ What you need: - A DT880 edition/PRO with 250ohm or 600ohm - a pair of DT770 velour pads (black or grey) The mod doesn't work with the older DT880.

So any 2005 or later DT880 250/600 ohm model will work for this mod? To clarify, is the 'edition' just the 2005 nomenclature of what is presently called the 'Premium' model?

Thanks!

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoXter /img/forum/go_quote.gif [size=medium]Finished:[/size] And finally the earpads. As you can see, you can see nothing.

What original model of DT880 is in this photo (year, etc.)?

I presently have a DT880/250 (2003), but MUST 'CONVERT' to a CLOSED 'phone so my wife & others are not bothered by sound leakage at moderate volumes. SO, I would like to acquire the appropriate 600 ohm model (again, only 2005 model or later qualifies?) & do this mod. BEFORE taking the plunge (time & $$), I need to ensure this will result in enough isolation (both directions) to make it worthwhile and beneficial for all parties involved. Judging from the descriptions of the DT880cb's sonic presentation I have read in this thread, the post-mod changes would seem to fit the bill for me as compared to my present '03 model and wishlist of changes (in addition to the desired/hoped for isolation advantages).

So to recap...

1) I enjoy the Beyer sound, but would like to tone down the treble a bit, bring out the mids forward a few clicks, and beef up the low end with some heft without overreaching (no, I'm not a certifiable basshead).

2) Need ISOLATION of a closed can, esp. from a leakage perspective!

3) Impedance/power requirements should not be an issue as I will be using these HPs amped 100% of the time, nearly always playing actual, physical CDs (dreaming of my past vinyl rig) rather than MP3s or higher bitrate lossless files.

4) I am prepared to accept the drawbacks that may result from changing to a closed back designs, i.e. soundstage compression, etc.

Any feedback, comments, corrections, etc. addressing my needs & questions above would be welcome and greatly appreciated!

Greg

 

[nickchen]

9 posts since 2003? Spammer...

BTT: What is to be seen on NoXter's pics is a DT880 Pro from 2005 or later (the successor of your version). The mod would also work on a "non-PRO" 2005 or the DT880'600 (manufactur or whatever) as well. The critical things are the housings, everything else doesn't play any role.

A DT880'600 would be an ideal candidate principally (correct housings, superior system specs), but that is quite an investion of course. If you were situated in Germany, I'd recommend "recycling" your 2003 model, you'd need only 2 housings (>40€) and 2 600 ohm systems and install them. Don't know how your spare parts supply is organized "over there"...

To your wishlist:
1) You can tame treble down as much as you like, that's a mere question of how much of that houseware tissue fleece you use.
2) Isolation ends up somewhere in between a W5000 (little) and a K271 (insane). It is absolutely sufficient not to bother others and to focus on the music when other sounds occur, but if you want to block out a running TV or a conversation close to you, you need InEars or active noise cancelling of the ANC7 sort. Even a K271 isn't capable of that.
4) Sounstaging & airyness indeed suffer a bit, but you get much better bass and less cold mids in exchange.

What else:
The mod is fully adaptable to your personal needs and listening habits. I've already mentioned the fleece thingies, and also mids and bass can be tuned. If you do it as shown on NoXter's pics, you get a bit more warmth and bass impact, but if you choose a bigger hole, you can tune things towards even more bass & warmth. The ambivalent thing is that mids warmth and bass amount seem to be coupled, hence very warm mids cannot be achieved with a "slim & audiophile" bass.

I tuned mine towards amply more warmth and more bass compared to NoXter's exemplar, as I've got already my MS Pro for that sort of "audiophile" presentation. Result is a very engaging & fun sounding can of the DT990 sort, but with lightyears better mids and with Grado PRaT thanks to the fast 600 ohm systems. The bass impact can be overbearing sometimes though, so I EQ'ed it slightly down ~-2dB or so. Those mids are so addictive that I decided to pick that EQ poison instead of taming things completely down.

 

[Tiemen]

@ Grag Cox "To clarify, is the 'edition' just the 2005 nomenclature of what is presently called the 'Premium' model?".

The answer is yes for the non pro version.

 

[NoXter]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Greg Cox /img/forum/go_quote.gif So any 2005 or later DT880 250/600 ohm model will work for this mod? To clarify, is the 'edition' just the 2005 nomenclature of what is presently called the 'Premium' model?

Correct!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Greg Cox /img/forum/go_quote.gif What original model of DT880 is in this photo (year, etc.)?

It is a DT880 from the actual line with a DT880-PRO headband.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Greg Cox /img/forum/go_quote.gif 1) I enjoy the Beyer sound, but would like to tone down the treble a bit, bring out the mids forward a few clicks, and beef up the low end with some heft without overreaching (no, I'm not a certifiable basshead).

Treble is toned down with the mod and you can regulate it by yourself. The optimal sweetspot is some kind of taste. The mids won't be forwarded. It is just that they sound fuller and warmer than stock. Bass depends on the bass-reflex-hole inside, but when you make this hole bigger you also earn much more groundtone and warmer mids. For my taste the bass is in this increment too overwhelming.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Greg Cox /img/forum/go_quote.gif 2) Need ISOLATION of a closed can, esp. from a leakage perspective!

Leakage is OK, but not great. Maybe it is possible to work with other materials to close the housing and earn better isolation. Never tried this, because I'm satisfied with the actual isolation and leakage.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Greg Cox /img/forum/go_quote.gif soundstage compression, etc.

I'm still thinkin about how to improve this point, but actual it is not really a problem.

 

[Greg Cox]

nickchen, Tiemen & NoXster,

Wow, thanks so much for your quick replies and extremely helpful contributions.

When I have more free time, I will follow up with separate individual replies to each of your posts if further clarification or questions are necessary.

Greg

 

[Greg Cox]

Quote:

Originally Posted by nickchen /img/forum/go_quote.gif 9 posts since 2003? Spammer...

It's disgusting, isn't it.

Nothing better to do than spray electronic bits of nonsense all day, everyday.

Circumstances have re-ignited a long dormant need for home headphone use, for which the 2003 DT 880 just won't work ..

Quote:

Originally Posted by nickchen /img/forum/go_quote.gif BTT: What is to be seen on NoXter's pics is a DT880 Pro from 2005 or later (the successor of your version). The mod would also work on a "non-PRO" 2005 or the DT880'600 (manufactur or whatever) as well. The critical things are the housings, everything else doesn't play any role. A DT880'600 would be an ideal candidate principally (correct housings, superior system specs), but that is quite an investion of course. If you were situated in Germany, I'd recommend "recycling" your 2003 model, you'd need only 2 housings (>40€) and 2 600 ohm systems and install them. Don't know how your spare parts supply is organized "over there"... To your wishlist: 1) You can tame treble down as much as you like, that's a mere question of how much of that houseware tissue fleece you use. 2) Isolation ends up somewhere in between a W5000 (little) and a K271 (insane). It is absolutely sufficient not to bother others and to focus on the music when other sounds occur, but if you want to block out a running TV or a conversation close to you, you need InEars or active noise cancelling of the ANC7 sort. Even a K271 isn't capable of that. 4) Sounstaging & airyness indeed suffer a bit, but you get much better bass and less cold mids in exchange. What else: The mod is fully adaptable to your personal needs and listening habits. I've already mentioned the fleece thingies, and also mids and bass can be tuned. If you do it as shown on NoXter's pics, you get a bit more warmth and bass impact, but if you choose a bigger hole, you can tune things towards even more bass & warmth. The ambivalent thing is that mids warmth and bass amount seem to be coupled, hence very warm mids cannot be achieved with a "slim & audiophile" bass. I tuned mine towards amply more warmth and more bass compared to NoXter's exemplar, as I've got already my MS Pro for that sort of "audiophile" presentation. Result is a very engaging & fun sounding can of the DT990 sort, but with lightyears better mids and with Grado PRaT thanks to the fast 600 ohm systems. The bass impact can be overbearing sometimes though, so I EQ'ed it slightly down ~-2dB or so. Those mids are so addictive that I decided to pick that EQ poison instead of taming things completely down.

Great food for thought-thank you for your thorough reply! I'm of the 'natural' bass school. Used to own the mid/late '80's DT990, but they sadly broke in 2003. Loved them to death, darker sound and all, then replaced them with the 2003 DT880, at the subtle urgings of Jan Meier. Great phones, but have never been my true cup of tea.

More comments to come later...

I promise (holding up three finger boy scout sign) I will try to contribute more often than 9 times in 7 years in the future!!

 

[NoXter]

It was time for an update (see first posting). I changed the damping in the housings and substituted the cloth-war in front of the driver. The biggest improvement are the more forwarded mids.

 

[apatN]

I am going to have to try this. I have my DT880 600 back (was out on loan), but I am afraid they'll need some repair work to be done first. I butchered the cable off and I want to repair the cups (they got some damage from the previous owner who did a recable/dual entry mod). As you can see the holes are ugly and if you look careful enough you can see the right cup has the hole not in the right place.  
 
Any ideas on how to fix this? Was thinking of epoxy to fill the holes. Grind everything and spray paint the cups (black would be nice). Then I can drill my own perfectly lined up holes.
 

 

[NoXter]

What??
Well, epoxy is a good idea. 
Something like this:
 

 
I used same with my DT880'03. Works perfect.

 

[apatN]

Thanks Nox. The 03 DT880 should be the same as far as material goes (iirc) so I will be on the lookout for that or similar stuff.

 

[apatN]

I bought the stuff today and an hour later I have successfully filled the holes! I used some sandpaper and if you close your eyers you wouldn't even notice there were holes in it by just feeling. Now all I need to do is paint the suckas.

 

[apatN]

It is coming together. This looks way better than stock in my humble but honest opinion.
 

 
I don't know if I will add another layer of paint. I might do so to cover this little mistake up (see the paint on the left cup):

 

[nickchen]

Not bad, those looks.
 
But IMO spraypaint isn't optimal for such occasions. First, it's hard to get a finishing without such "noses" if the part to be lacquered is so small as the usual headphone is. Second, the usual spraypaint is mostly of mediocre quality, it is likely to be scratched later.
 
"Oldschool" paint with cancer smell and long drying time does waaay better in that respect. I let my stuff dry in the boiler room, and I put it under a box with holes on the bottom, this prevents the stuff from collecting too much dust while drying.