Beyer DT770 Pro/ 80 Detachable cable MOD
Sep 25, 2019 at 3:38 PM Post #301 of 315
Hi

Im intrested in doing the mod to my Old DT770 Pro Headphones but mine has 4 wires White Brown Green yellow

Has any one done the mod with the 4 wired version ?

Added some pics also

Any help would be grateful

Thanks

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LY2Qn1Y.jpg
 
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Sep 26, 2019 at 3:54 AM Post #302 of 315
Hi

Im intrested in doing the mod to my Old DT770 Pro Headphones but mine has 4 wires White Brown Green yellow

Has any one done the mod with the 4 wired version ?

Added some pics also

Any help would be grateful

Thanks

If you look at the drivers they each have a pen mark denoting which side the + connection is. So for your 3 wire conversion you will need both the positive connections and then join both the negative connections together. So.. you could solder 2 wired to the sleeve, if you are using a jack connection running one to each negative, I would reccoment re-using that little bridge that is stick to the inside of the left cup for join on to the wire that goes through the headband
 
Oct 11, 2019 at 8:32 PM Post #303 of 315
Question not exactly related to the mod but what’s the best male to male 3.5mm cable to use with these? (I need about 10-12 feet)

The ones I bought keep breaking after a couple of months.

Note: I hate braided cables

Thanks
 
Oct 12, 2019 at 4:26 AM Post #304 of 315
Question not exactly related to the mod but what’s the best male to male 3.5mm cable to use with these? (I need about 10-12 feet)

The ones I bought keep breaking after a couple of months.

Note: I hate braided cables

Thanks

If you want something tough, I would go with one used on Pro DJ headphones ( not beats ) as they are normally designed to put with a lot of abuse. V-Mode make a nice cable with kevlar reinforcement for a sensible price. You can find it on their website. Or just re-use the old beyer cable and solder a jack on the other end
 
Jun 26, 2020 at 3:34 PM Post #305 of 315
Great work guys!

Can I ask for the mini XLR is it possible to use the nut on the inside?
 
Jun 26, 2020 at 10:57 PM Post #306 of 315
I might have seen this here but I did take inspiration from someone else with the modified nut. It allows me to use loctite instead of hot glue.
The position is the hardest but I managed to get it right on the button.

880 600 Ohm special edition.

IMG_20200626_192132.jpgIMG_20200626_192105.jpg
 
Jun 27, 2020 at 2:38 PM Post #307 of 315
That's definitely the way to do it. Nice job :)
 
Jun 28, 2020 at 12:16 PM Post #308 of 315
That's definitely the way to do it. Nice job :)

I got it cleaned up, blew out the bits with compressed air and used a little loctite on the nut for extra security.

I got the balanced cable made up and it sounded way fuller on the 789 in high gain. There was so much detail I thought I had done something wrong but it was just bad recordings.

I now have to test it on my matrix audio HPA-3B as if has double the power at 600 ohm as the 789 has.

IMG_20200627_012118.jpg
 
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Jun 29, 2020 at 11:31 AM Post #310 of 315
The finished job turned out really good! Congrats :)

Thanks, I threw in some unicorn tail too but I probably should have tested it more without. The sound is pure precision, it has so much detail and not at all sibilant.
It also has a very mild bump in the mid bass region but it's fairly even. I actually thought the headphone was messed up but it was able to pickup on some weird part of a track than was badly recorded.

It's one of the most detailed headphones I have ever heard. Now I just need to get it on my Matrix Audio HPA-3B as it has double the power of the 789 @ 600 ohm.
Even so the 789 easily powers it in high gain balanced and 50% volume is fairly loud with comfortable listening levels at about 30% volume.
 
Nov 15, 2020 at 9:19 AM Post #311 of 315
Appreciate it, I just bought the multimeter, probably best to do it right versus guessing and being in a rush haha.

I'll wait to see if anyone has confirmation on the blue/red/copper wires not in the black sleeve.

Thanks

EDIT: So i'm planning on just snipping the wires and not unsoldering them from the driver.
Does this sound right:
Left Blue wire = Tip on 3.5mm Panel
Left Red wire = ring on 3.5mm Panel
Right Copper wire = Sleeve on 3.5mm Panel

Leave the Red and white middle wires (black casing) attached to the board.

CONFIRMATION:
Blue = Tip
Red = Ring
Copper = Sleeve

Got it soldered on and ready to rock! Thanks Everyone.
Hi, thanks for the original capture, I made a mod on my DT770 32 ohms with a mini-xlr male plug. But I don't understand why my left channel is really weak compared to the right one, I 've double checked my wiring, here it is ... the resistivity measured between the 2 left wires is twice as expected, isn'it ? but why ? If anyone has an idea to solve this issue and save my next free time to sort out this mod. Thanks in advance.
Philippe
DT770driverLeft.jpg


DT770mod.jpg
 
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Nov 16, 2020 at 10:38 PM Post #313 of 315
Hi, thanks for the original capture, I made a mod on my DT770 32 ohms with a mini-xlr male plug. But I don't understand why my left channel is really weak compared to the right one, I 've double checked my wiring, here it is ... the resistivity measured between the 2 left wires is twice as expected, isn'it ? but why ? If anyone has an idea to solve this issue and save my next free time to sort out this mod. Thanks in advance.
Philippe
DT770driverLeft.jpg


DT770mod.jpg
I'd skip attaching the right side to the left drivers board, just wire it straight to the mini XLR. Those center soldering points are just another place to add heat and make the driver fail IMO. I can't tell the orientation of the mini XLR but based on the ohm reading it seems like your testing the left and it's going through the left positive, then the right driver's positive and then getting back to the ground through the right driver.
 
Nov 18, 2020 at 4:38 AM Post #315 of 315
Thanks @PETEREK for your message and caring with my issue. You're right the best thing would be to connect the right driver straight to the mini-xlr, but my connectors are already soldered and I 'd like not to modify again and again... If the resistivity measured between the two pins at the bottom of my image (with tiny wires towards the left driver itself) is about 34 ohms, that in my opinion says the driver is not damaged, am i wrong ?
@gooeyrich thanks for the video links, I had already watched them before starting the mod ...
 
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