Beyer DT770 Pro/ 80 Detachable cable MOD
May 1, 2017 at 5:24 PM Post #272 of 315
Thanks, that's what I thought.

I hope people don't blindly follow that guide video and ruin their headphones...

I don't think I have any big enough heat shrink to fit around the mini-xlr threads, but I'll try to use an extra nut and some loctite to accomplish the same goal.

The panel mount connector may not be as pretty if it protrudes out of the cup rather than sitting flush, but that being said, these aren't Beats. I'm not wearing them as a fashion accessory :p

Hi first time here on this forum. Great information here in this thread wish I had found it before I became mattlachs prophecy "I hope people don't blindly follow that guide video and ruin their headphones..."
long story short the ear cup with the mod has more bass than the other side. the sound is different on both sides and I think the connector I used is also not optimal as it is a bit long going into the headphones and required the removal of the plastic to make it fit. here is a link to the connector I used.
i currently have the open area around the connector closed with electrical tape not hot glued as I did not have enough confidence whether things would be working properly.
I am really a newbie to Head-Fi and am not very knowledgable or experienced and am reaching out to see if anyone can help with suggestions. I look at it this way if I ruined the headphones I would like to at least finish them properly and practice this and then buy another pair and try not to ruin them (i can still listen to them now but it is not so pleasant)
Another question I had was could it be my soldering or another aspect that any of you would suspect to cause the more bass in the moded cup vs the other if not the cut out plastic part.
Thank you in advance for any help and thank you for starting and continuously adding to such an informative thread.
 
Apr 19, 2018 at 3:55 PM Post #274 of 315
Hi there, just tried this mod and something went funky with my DT770's. However... first, something that might help – it appears as though Beyerdynamic has changed the internal wiring, as all previous image had "tabs" which the wires were soldered too. Now, there is a very tiny circuit board (same cheap wires though). See attached image of the new wiring (black shielded wire is what goes to the right can). This image is un-modded, as the headphones came. It made it pretty hard to solder, as these blobs are all REALLY close together.

9937620_l.jpg


When I did the mod, everything seemed to go pretty well. The left channel sounds perfect. However, the right channel (oddly enough) is very quiet. Maybe 25% the volume of the left. I've tried with several songs, through my phone and on my computer, and with a couple cables. Same results. Any thoughts/suggestions on what I can try?

Thanks! (and hopefully my image will help others!)
 
Apr 19, 2018 at 10:00 PM Post #275 of 315
On the right driver you will only be using the soldering points on the outside edges (the locations of blue and gold in this picture). The two soldering points in the center of this picture are simply connecting the red signal from the cable to the signal wire that travels through the headband to the right driver, those can be connected outside of this board if you want.

If possible, take a picture of your boards on both the left driver and the right driver, I'll see if there's something obvious that I think might be causing the lower volume in the other driver.

Thanks,
 
Apr 24, 2018 at 10:26 AM Post #276 of 315
Ok, so I think I figured things out! As it turns out, it wasn't the headphones (but now I have a new problem LOL)!

When I tried the cable I made, the sound was crackly and quiet in the right ear.
When I tried a premade cable, it wasn't crackly, but it was still quiet in the right ear.

SO... as it turns out, I didn't plug it in all the way with EITHER cables (that Philmore jack needs a little extra hard "push" to get the plug all the way in).
I pushed both cables all the way into the jack and the sound is equal and full in both ears. YAY!

BUT, the cable I made still sounds crackly, especially in high notes (horns/treble/etc). I used Mogami 2893 w/ Rean connectors. Anyone have any ideas what would cause that?

On the right driver you will only be using the soldering points on the outside edges (the locations of blue and gold in this picture). The two soldering points in the center of this picture are simply connecting the red signal from the cable to the signal wire that travels through the headband to the right driver, those can be connected outside of this board if you want.

Peterek, can you elaborate? I obviously kept the left driver wires soldered where they were, and then simply replaced the wires from the "old" cable w/ new wires going to the Philmore jack. It sounds good, but I'm curious why (I think) you're saying to only solder two wires?

Thanks for all the help – this thread literally makes me want to buy a DT 990 just so I can do this mod again. HA!
 
May 12, 2018 at 7:35 PM Post #280 of 315
Too intricate for me to solder.

Spend hundreds of dollars on headphones and the stupid %$#%%@#% cant even tie a knot in the cable to stop the 0.0000003mm thin cable from pulling out during daily use.

Cheers.
 
Jul 31, 2018 at 11:06 AM Post #282 of 315
I've been running this mod for almost a year now with very few issues, except that the nut doesn't want to stay on the thread when I have a washer on, and even when the washer is off, it seems latch on crooked and not very sturdy, plus then it shows my shoddy hole work. Does anybody have a good workaround for this? Or even know of a 3.5 with a longer threading section than the standard design?

I didn't dremel, I used a soldering iron to melt the plastic enough to fit the jack through. Maybe that's part of it?
 
Aug 13, 2018 at 10:11 AM Post #283 of 315
I bought a dremel after posting last, and bought one of these philmore snap in jacks from amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LXOIVKI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Worked like a dream. It was a little terrifying using the dremel for the first time, but it rounded out the hole really easily. Unfortunately no progress pics (when I get in the zone of doing these projects I forget about everything else). Here's my hopefully completely finished commute-friendly DT770s with a new aux cord I made, topped off with some new Alpha Pads.

4FXpSve.jpg
 
Sep 17, 2018 at 7:17 PM Post #284 of 315
Based on the below picture, can someone label the Tip / Ring / Sleeve on the new panels? I have my headphones taken apart and i cant seem to figure it out (No Multimeter)

Also, does anyone have the Tip/ Ring / Sleeve information for this Panel Jack (Philmore 70-534)? I've been scratching my head and looking online for the past hour to no avail.
https://www.amazon.com/Philmore-Iso...eo+Female+Panel+Mount+Headphone+Jack+;+70-534

Anywho, thanks!

Hi there, just tried this mod and something went funky with my DT770's. However... first, something that might help – it appears as though Beyerdynamic has changed the internal wiring, as all previous image had "tabs" which the wires were soldered too. Now, there is a very tiny circuit board (same cheap wires though). See attached image of the new wiring (black shielded wire is what goes to the right can). This image is un-modded, as the headphones came. It made it pretty hard to solder, as these blobs are all REALLY close together.

9937620_l.jpg


When I did the mod, everything seemed to go pretty well. The left channel sounds perfect. However, the right channel (oddly enough) is very quiet. Maybe 25% the volume of the left. I've tried with several songs, through my phone and on my computer, and with a couple cables. Same results. Any thoughts/suggestions on what I can try?

Thanks! (and hopefully my image will help others!)
 
Sep 17, 2018 at 7:28 PM Post #285 of 315
Really the best way to do it would be to get a cheap multimeter

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ISAMUA6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'll have a go at the picture though. I don't know for certain though because mine were the ones with the solder tabs.

Left blue wire - Left channel, Tip.
Left red wire - Right channel, Ring.
Middle white wire - Right driver positive
Middle red wire - Right driver ground
Right copper wire - Ground, sleeve

The only ones that might not be right are the middle two. But that's how it was on mine so that's my best guess.

The jack there's really no way of knowing without testing that I'm aware of.

Edit: Also, if you're doing the detachable cable, you don't have to use the middle two on the driver, you can attach them straight to the jack.
 
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