[Vylen]

I just ordered my own DT770's and aren't particularly keen on cutting it up just yet, and I know a lot of people would feel the same.

However, I'm just wondering, wouldn't it be somewhat better to snip the cable close to the headphones and attach a connector to the end? Be it a 3.5mm female or (mini-)XLR male? Then you can just plug into that without having the need to dremel and hot-glue the enclosure.

Just a thought...?

 

[PETEREK]

I just ordered my own DT770's and aren't particularly keen on cutting it up just yet, and I know a lot of people would feel the same.

However, I'm just wondering, wouldn't it be somewhat better to snip the cable close to the headphones and attach a connector to the end? Be it a 3.5mm female or (mini-)XLR male? Then you can just plug into that without having the need to dremel and hot-glue the enclosure.

Just a thought...?

Oh but what fun is that?!

This is really one of the easiest modifications to do to any headphone, while you could do what you've described and achieve the same function, why not spend an extra 5-20 minutes finishing it in a way that looks stock and is much less annoying to use?

If you decide you want to cut them up at any point, let me know if you have any questions or need any guidance. While these pictures are alright, I did take them long ago and realize they could contain more detail and description. Maybe if there's any interest I'll revamp this DIY tut and make a more in-depth one with some better photos and step by step instructions.

 

[Mad Max]

I just ordered my own DT770's and aren't particularly keen on cutting it up just yet, and I know a lot of people would feel the same.

However, I'm just wondering, wouldn't it be somewhat better to snip the cable close to the headphones and attach a connector to the end? Be it a 3.5mm female or (mini-)XLR male? Then you can just plug into that without having the need to dremel and hot-glue the enclosure.

Just a thought...?

 
That's the safest route, yes.  Do so if you please, of course.
I recommend that you avoid getting any closer than 3.5" to the end of the strain relief sticking out of the cup or it could become difficult to modify, if you go with the usual Neutrik NYS240BG female connector.

 

[mattlach]

Doing something like this, would it be possible to convert the DT770 Pro's to Balanced, just like one can with the Sennheiser HD650's?
 
How would one do that?   Is it just a matter of making sure each element gets its own ground instead of a shared one?

 

[Mad Max]

Completely replacing the original cable with, say, Mogami 2893, would indeed allow one to balance the headphone.  Give each element its own ground, and terminate the cable with a 4-pin XLR connector.

 

[PETEREK]

  Doing something like this, would it be possible to convert the DT770 Pro's to Balanced, just like one can with the Sennheiser HD650's?
 
How would one do that?   Is it just a matter of making sure each element gets its own ground instead of a shared one?

  Completely replacing the original cable with, say, Mogami 2893, would indeed allow one to balance the headphone.  Give each element its own ground, and terminate the cable with a 4-pin XLR connector.

You need to replace the mini XLR in the headphones that is currently a 3-pin (like AKG) to a 4-pin mini XLR to use them as balanced. You'd also have to make a balanced cable. I do this with AKG headphones all the time.

 

[mattlach]

You need to replace the mini XLR in the headphones that is currently a 3-pin (like AKG) to a 4-pin mini XLR to use them as balanced. You'd also have to make a balanced cable. I do this with AKG headphones all the time.

There's no mini-xlr in mine. It's a non detachable cable.



My plan was to install a single 4 pin mini-xlr where the cable currently goes in, and just use the wire that currently loops over the headband to reach the right element.

I'm assuming there are two strands in it, even though it is pretty thin, because even in a system with a shared ground you still need to get the ground over to the right side somehow.

Unless they use the car method and use the metal in the construction as a conductor...

 

[PETEREK]

 

You need to replace the mini XLR in the headphones that is currently a 3-pin (like AKG) to a 4-pin mini XLR to use them as balanced. You'd also have to make a balanced cable. I do this with AKG headphones all the time.

There's no mini-xlr in mine. It's a non detachable cable.



My plan was to install a single 4 pin mini-xlr where the cable currently goes in, and just use the wire that currently loops over the headband to reach the right element.

I'm assuming there are two strands in it, even though it is pretty thin, because even in a system with a shared ground you still need to get the ground over to the right side somehow.

Unless they use the car method and use the metal in the construction as a conductor...

Oh man, I really thought I read DT1770 before I posted that. 
 
Yes, in the case of the 770 you would just need a cable with 4 conductors to make it balanced. Installing the 4-pin mini XLR would make balanced possible as well. The thin cable between the left and right cups that's routed through the headband does have 2 conductors in it.

 

[mattlach]

  Oh man, I really thought I read DT1770 before I posted that. 
 
Yes, in the case of the 770 you would just need a cable with 4 conductors to make it balanced. Installing the 4-pin mini XLR would make balanced possible as well. The thin cable between the left and right cups that's routed through the headband does have 2 conductors in it.

 
 
No worries.  Thanks for all the information.
 
So, I ordered a 2 pack of 4pin mini-xlr panel mount male connectors, and mating female plugs on Amazon.   They were a little pricy, but MUCH cheaper than buying everything ready made.
 
I also ordered a balanced 4pin male to female balanced XLR extension cable, so I can lop off one connector and attach the mini-XLR plug, rather than wiring it from scratch.
 
Rather than using the flimsy stock wire that goes across the headband, I am considering making my own twisted pair from some wire I have around the house.  I'm not convinced this is necessary, but it kind of feels like the right thing to do, if I can make it fit right.
 
One thing that concerns me - however - is whether or not the back of the panel mount mini-XLR connector will fit inside the cup without interfering with the driver.
 
In this guide on youtube they actually cut up the metal bracket holding the driver in place to make it fit.  I find this rather disconcerting, as this could potentially harm the sound quality significantly.   I'd imagine the balance, stability and position of the driver within the cup are key.
 
I'm hoping mine will fit without having to cut the bracket, but in case it doesn't, what is your take on this?
 
Thanks,
Matt

 

[Mad Max]

   
 
No worries.  Thanks for all the information.
 
So, I ordered a 2 pack of 4pin mini-xlr panel mount male connectors, and mating female plugs on Amazon.   They were a little pricy, but MUCH cheaper than buying everything ready made.
 
I also ordered a balanced 4pin male to female balanced XLR extension cable, so I can lop off one connector and attach the mini-XLR plug, rather than wiring it from scratch.
 
Rather than using the flimsy stock wire that goes across the headband, I am considering making my own twisted pair from some wire I have around the house.  I'm not convinced this is necessary, but it kind of feels like the right thing to do, if I can make it fit right.
 
One thing that concerns me - however - is whether or not the back of the panel mount mini-XLR connector will fit inside the cup without interfering with the driver.
 
In this guide on youtube they actually cut up the metal bracket holding the driver in place to make it fit.  I find this rather disconcerting, as this could potentially harm the sound quality significantly.   I'd imagine the balance, stability and position of the driver within the cup are key.
 
I'm hoping mine will fit without having to cut the bracket, but in case it doesn't, what is your take on this?
 
Thanks,
Matt

 
Mutilating that plastic (not metal) crown that divides DT770's cup interiors into two spaces is a most unwise way to accommodate the socket.  Sound quality is guaranteed to take a hit.  The panel-mount socket's threading can help make it unnecessary to have the socket inserted all the way into the cup to begin with.  Heatshrink should be used on the socket to keep it from being pushed in further and the nut that is meant to secure the socket into place in a chassis can be used inside of the headphone to keep it from being pulled out.
 

 

[mattlach]

Mutilating that plastic (not metal) crown that divides DT770's cup interiors into two spaces is a most unwise way to accommodate the socket.  Sound quality is guaranteed to take a hit.  The panel-mount socket's threading can help make it unnecessary to have the socket inserted all the way into the cup to begin with.  Heatshrink should be used on the socket to keep it from being pushed in further and the nut that is meant to secure the socket into place in a chassis can be used inside of the headphone to keep it from being pulled out.

Thanks, that's what I thought.

I hope people don't blindly follow that guide video and ruin their headphones...

I don't think I have any big enough heat shrink to fit around the mini-xlr threads, but I'll try to use an extra nut and some loctite to accomplish the same goal.

The panel mount connector may not be as pretty if it protrudes out of the cup rather than sitting flush, but that being said, these aren't Beats. I'm not wearing them as a fashion accessory

 

[Mad Max]

A small amount of black heatshrink isn't that expensive off of eBay, if you don't mind getting some, and it will cover up the threading and "fill out" the look of the protruding socket between the head/entry and the cup. 

 

[mattlach]

A small amount of black heatshrink isn't that expensive off of eBay, if you don't mind getting some, and it will cover up the threading and "fill out" the look of the protruding socket between the head/entry and the cup. 

That is true.


I already have a few tubes with different sizes of heat shrink from various projects, but I don't think any of them are large enough. I'll probably do the mod as is once I receive the parts. Then I can measure the size of the panel mount connector and determine how large heatsink tubing I need.

 

[ExabytE]

Hey guys I'm back again. This time I bought the 990's. Definitely doing this mod again, but unfortunately the seller replaced the rounded shape with a hexagonal shape http://www.ebay.com/itm/190731515793?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT.
I asked them if they'll be selling those rounded ones again. I'll keep you posted on that note when I hear back from them. What you guys think about that new shape? I'm not yet sure if I want to use the hexagonal.

 

[ExabytE]

Done I ended up using the connector Peterek mentioned. It fits way better.