Best looking tube amp
Mar 6, 2022 at 1:34 PM Post #1,771 of 1,828
Looks? Self indulgent? Oh dear.
How does it SOUND?!! I am a OLD engineer. Senile. Decrepit. Sobering. Forgetting my own name. Blithering in my dotage. But, I am still a university educated E.E. And a HAM for 50 years
You lads need to do some hard core learning. Gear like this won't look the same after you obtain some science knowledge.
I presently still have my all valve Hi-Fi gear, —much of it my own design and build, but I recognise that the latest class D circuits and components make my valves SOUND silly —except as a filter to compensate my old standard groove discs ( I have a LOT of pre-tape discs).
20 years ago, I designed & built my main valve power amp. A standard class A/B & A design, with a few modern tricks, modern components, over-sized power x-former (made in Chicago!), 4 uf proximity caps at the plates, about 400 uf of electrolytics (after the initial filter stage). EF86s for the pre, and 12AU7 to split the phase (I can pop in any octal power valve, from a 6L6 beam tetrode to the largest kinkless tetrode you can find. I have never had to fix a thing. I figured that I would not need a better amp...ever. Nope. I was wrong. New Class D technology is rewriting the book.
Even my beloved (1963, last production run) McIntosh C20 is in question. And I completely rebuilt it with an independent back plane, new caps. 1% metal film resistors, more phono compensation settings for lacquers, and better S/N, distortion specs than any valve preamp McIntosh would make until about 15 years ago. If I used some of the new digital switching and reed switches, I could match the current McIntosh valve preamp. —mine still has some bleed, but who listens to two sources at one time? I'd like to build a better Pultec. That would be more useful.

As for those pointed feet, they are resonance waiting to happen.
In a power amp it should not matter. But, on a turntable it might. In the end, pointed feet are just another resonance point that does NOT need to be there. If you want to close isolate your speakers or turntable, try a plumbing supply store. See the foam rubber seals used for the main seal on a loo. They are not expensive and work better than anything else I have used. —but, they only last for about 7 -8 years. They begin to crumble. Oh well, another 20 bucks shot to hell.
Aesthetics? I think the 1950s RCA/Western Electric board built for the Ampex 301 is the most beautiful audio gear I have seen. From the I/O transformers to the sealed heavy duty pots, and a tied off harness that reminds of Michelangelo's David. Either that or WEWs millon watt medium wave x-mitter with the marble chassis plates. No linear for RF in those days. The water-cooled modulator valve is the same power as the RF final They made some beautiful statues and fountains to cool them.
I cant even find what you are refering to can you supply pics or model numbers for the "I think the 1950s RCA/Western Electric board built for the Ampex 301 is the most beautiful audio gear I have seen. From the I/O transformers to the sealed heavy duty pots, and a tied off harness that reminds of Michelangelo's David. Either that or WEWs millon watt medium wave x-mitter with the marble chassis plates. No linear for RF in those days. The water-cooled modulator valve is the same power as the RF final They made some beautiful statues and fountains to cool them."

All I found quickly was this old classic
we3.jpg
 
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Mar 6, 2022 at 2:28 PM Post #1,774 of 1,828
Forgot to post my headamp/preamp too! A Pathos Inpol Ear.


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Steven Gutenberg have a review on this. It outputs 10W @ 32 Ω each of its two 4-pin balanced XLR and 3W on one 6.35mm SE socket.

 
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Mar 6, 2022 at 3:20 PM Post #1,775 of 1,828
Have to include Electronluv

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Mar 6, 2022 at 5:02 PM Post #1,777 of 1,828
Surprised no Halogrythme love in here...Site and FB Page
(L to R, R120, 300B, GM70 INT, 211 INT + PS and dual mono 2A3)

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Mar 7, 2022 at 1:23 PM Post #1,778 of 1,828
Looks? Self indulgent? Oh dear.
How does it SOUND?!! I am a OLD engineer. Senile. Decrepit. Sobering. Forgetting my own name. Blithering in my dotage. But, I am still a university educated E.E. And a HAM for 50 years
You lads need to do some hard core learning. Gear like this won't look the same after you obtain some science knowledge.
I presently still have my all valve Hi-Fi gear, —much of it my own design and build, but I recognise that the latest class D circuits and components make my valves SOUND silly —except as a filter to compensate my old standard groove discs ( I have a LOT of pre-tape discs).
20 years ago, I designed & built my main valve power amp. A standard class A/B & A design, with a few modern tricks, modern components, over-sized power x-former (made in Chicago!), 4 uf proximity caps at the plates, about 400 uf of electrolytics (after the initial filter stage). EF86s for the pre, and 12AU7 to split the phase (I can pop in any octal power valve, from a 6L6 beam tetrode to the largest kinkless tetrode you can find. I have never had to fix a thing. I figured that I would not need a better amp...ever. Nope. I was wrong. New Class D technology is rewriting the book.
Even my beloved (1963, last production run) McIntosh C20 is in question. And I completely rebuilt it with an independent back plane, new caps. 1% metal film resistors, more phono compensation settings for lacquers, and better S/N, distortion specs than any valve preamp McIntosh would make until about 15 years ago. If I used some of the new digital switching and reed switches, I could match the current McIntosh valve preamp. —mine still has some bleed, but who listens to two sources at one time? I'd like to build a better Pultec. That would be more useful.

As for those pointed feet, they are resonance waiting to happen.
In a power amp it should not matter. But, on a turntable it might. In the end, pointed feet are just another resonance point that does NOT need to be there. If you want to close isolate your speakers or turntable, try a plumbing supply store. See the foam rubber seals used for the main seal on a loo. They are not expensive and work better than anything else I have used. —but, they only last for about 7 -8 years. They begin to crumble. Oh well, another 20 bucks shot to hell.
Aesthetics? I think the 1950s RCA/Western Electric board built for the Ampex 301 is the most beautiful audio gear I have seen. From the I/O transformers to the sealed heavy duty pots, and a tied off harness that reminds of Michelangelo's David. Either that or WEWs millon watt medium wave x-mitter with the marble chassis plates. No linear for RF in those days. The water-cooled modulator valve is the same power as the RF final They made some beautiful statues and fountains to cool them.
You might be right. But check out the title of the thread :) Plenty of other threads on here that discuss the technical aspects of amps. And beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I'm not a fan of the look of the new Woo, but others might.

Some of the custom folks (on here...) and companies like Supratek are making fantastic tube amps and preamps that not only look good, but also use modern designs.
 
Mar 8, 2022 at 12:13 PM Post #1,779 of 1,828
Looks? Self indulgent? Oh dear.
How does it SOUND?!! I am a OLD engineer. Senile. Decrepit. Sobering. Forgetting my own name. Blithering in my dotage. But, I am still a university educated E.E. And a HAM for 50 years
You lads need to do some hard core learning. Gear like this won't look the same after you obtain some science knowledge.
I presently still have my all valve Hi-Fi gear, —much of it my own design and build, but I recognise that the latest class D circuits and components make my valves SOUND silly —except as a filter to compensate my old standard groove discs ( I have a LOT of pre-tape discs).
20 years ago, I designed & built my main valve power amp. A standard class A/B & A design, with a few modern tricks, modern components, over-sized power x-former (made in Chicago!), 4 uf proximity caps at the plates, about 400 uf of electrolytics (after the initial filter stage). EF86s for the pre, and 12AU7 to split the phase (I can pop in any octal power valve, from a 6L6 beam tetrode to the largest kinkless tetrode you can find. I have never had to fix a thing. I figured that I would not need a better amp...ever. Nope. I was wrong. New Class D technology is rewriting the book.
Even my beloved (1963, last production run) McIntosh C20 is in question. And I completely rebuilt it with an independent back plane, new caps. 1% metal film resistors, more phono compensation settings for lacquers, and better S/N, distortion specs than any valve preamp McIntosh would make until about 15 years ago. If I used some of the new digital switching and reed switches, I could match the current McIntosh valve preamp. —mine still has some bleed, but who listens to two sources at one time? I'd like to build a better Pultec. That would be more useful.

As for those pointed feet, they are resonance waiting to happen.
In a power amp it should not matter. But, on a turntable it might. In the end, pointed feet are just another resonance point that does NOT need to be there. If you want to close isolate your speakers or turntable, try a plumbing supply store. See the foam rubber seals used for the main seal on a loo. They are not expensive and work better than anything else I have used. —but, they only last for about 7 -8 years. They begin to crumble. Oh well, another 20 bucks shot to hell.
Aesthetics? I think the 1950s RCA/Western Electric board built for the Ampex 301 is the most beautiful audio gear I have seen. From the I/O transformers to the sealed heavy duty pots, and a tied off harness that reminds of Michelangelo's David. Either that or WEWs millon watt medium wave x-mitter with the marble chassis plates. No linear for RF in those days. The water-cooled modulator valve is the same power as the RF final They made some beautiful statues and fountains to cool them.
I find the above post fascinating, and as a non-engineer, I'm curious about the comment about modern class-D circuits making tubes (valves) sound silly. Silly as in class-D literally sounds better? Or silly from an engineering standpoint. I solidly straddle the fence on the objectivist/subjectivist jihad, but I'm curious to hear from Bix-Lives as to what he likes about class-D...

On a related note, I'm a classic car enthusiast, and although a modern Hyundai will outperform my old Alfa's and Austin-Healey's in EVERY way...when I'm looking to enjoy a drive to recreate, I'll take the old stuff every time. By the same token, they're not great for a daily commute - though I still punish myself by doing so on occasion. Methinks the valves vs class-D discussion mirrors the above in many ways.
 
Mar 9, 2022 at 5:17 PM Post #1,782 of 1,828
2208.jpg

2209.jpg

220611.jpg


Marc Henri (left) and Andre Klein (right). over the top!
 
May 10, 2022 at 7:26 AM Post #1,785 of 1,828
2208.jpg
2209.jpg
220611.jpg

Marc Henri (left) and Andre Klein (right). over the top!
What a great picture. I think those are Eimac 100tl's and definitely Eimac 304tl's. In push pull, those would give you quite a bit of power.
More voltage than you might want swimming around your head : ) The 100tl was a favorite SET answer for a few top makers for a few short years. Jeffrey Jackson from Experience Audio made his creme de la creme amp based upon the 100tl. it puts out about 10 watts a side. Others used it too and it became fairly impossible to source. The 304tl is more readily available though not as fine. Trafomatic has plans to build a push pull amp based upon the 304tl which should output somewhere between 1250 and 1500 watts of triode strapped insanity. Definitely don't open up that chassis. It will likely have over 3000 volts on the rails. (I think we executed people with 2000, so lethal. )
 

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