I sold the I3 while back so I can’t reliably compare the two. Mids were really good and technicalities were ok when amped but ultimately it was bit too V-shaped even with the vent mods for me. Even though it was big I remember wearing it comfortably for few hours. A7 is whole lot more natural sounding than i3 from my memory. I could separate bass timbre to planar’s in I3 and that BA on a nozzle was piercing. A7 has better crossover implementation for sure and piezo only bothers me when I am on +3 or +6 filters. I am actually curious about the Tri starsea which is the only IEM I might purchase this 11/11 or Christmas.
I sold the I3 while back so I can’t reliably compare the two. Mids were really good and technicalities were ok when amped but ultimately it was bit too V-shaped even with the vent mods for me. Even though it was big I remember wearing it comfortably for few hours. A7 is whole lot more natural sounding than i3 from my memory. I could separate bass timbre to planar’s in I3 and that BA on a nozzle was piercing. A7 has better crossover implementation for sure and piezo only bothers me when I am on +3 or +6 filters. I am actually curious about the Tri starsea which is the only IEM I might purchase this 11/11 or Christmas.
If u already have the LZ A7, I would say skip the TRI Starsea.
I know it is an unfair comparison due to the almost 2 – 3 times price difference between the 2 sets, but I view the TRI Starsea as sort of a poor man’s LZ A7, with the TRI Starsea having 4 tuning options (via switches only without tuning nozzles) compared to 10 in the LZ A7 (more if u add other aftermarket nozzles in the equation). Other than the LZ A7 having more possible tuning sound signatures than the TRI Starsea, the LZ A7 also has better timbre, a thicker note weight and a more refined tonality. The LZ A7 also has a bigger soundstage and better instrument separation, details and imaging. In fact timbre in the middle/higher frequencies of the TRI Starsea is not the best, the BA timbre is quite apparent at times.
The Tri Starsea is also a very source picky IEM in view of the very low 9.5 ohm impedance, and only pairs well with sources with < 1 ohm output impedance (close to zero is best). The frequency response gets skewed with inappropriate source pairing, unlike the LZ A7 which is more source agnostic.
The LZ A7 is not 3 times better as the price would suggest, and diminishing returns are present the higher you go up in this hobby, but if the money allows, it might be wiser to go for a higher tier upgrade in the LZ A7 in view of the more tuning options, less source pickiness and better technicalities/timbre/refinement.
Hbb is pathetic no doubt. I only use his review for the freq response sake if crins didn't measure it yet (hbb certainly has chifi earlier). If the freq response looks ideal to my ideal curve, i can consider buying the iem. Not really listening to his video as he rumbles about the no more no more over and over again lol
Hbb is pathetic no doubt. I only use his review for the freq response sake if crins didn't measure it yet (hbb certainly has chifi earlier). If the freq response looks ideal to my ideal curve, i can consider buying the iem. Not really listening to his video as he rumbles about the no more no more over and over again lol
Done (and please throw in a comparison with the TRN BA5 if you can be bothered, I have a gift in mind for someone very dear to me but need to know how it stacks up with what they're currently using
Done (and please throw in a comparison with the TRN BA5 if you can be bothered, I have a gift in mind for someone very dear to me but need to know how it stacks up with what they're currently using
I sold the I3 while back so I can’t reliably compare the two. Mids were really good and technicalities were ok when amped but ultimately it was bit too V-shaped even with the vent mods for me. Even though it was big I remember wearing it comfortably for few hours. A7 is whole lot more natural sounding than i3 from my memory. I could separate bass timbre to planar’s in I3 and that BA on a nozzle was piercing. A7 has better crossover implementation for sure and piezo only bothers me when I am on +3 or +6 filters. I am actually curious about the Tri starsea which is the only IEM I might purchase this 11/11 or Christmas.
I would say try the Starsea if you have played classical or love classical music. It may be you won't like them...but they are unique. For orchestral classical music they are, to me, fantastic. The stage, imaging and resolution are amazing for orchestras. You can always sell them if you don't like them. I won't listen to classical on anything but the Starsea now. Balanced setting all swiches ON. Sorry in advance @baskingshark.
It looks like the Kbear Lark is $30 on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/****-Cancelling-Headphones-Earphones-mic/dp/B07D7X19C1 Can you provide a bit more comparison to it peers in the price range and some higher priced ones that it equals or tops?
Well, I did refer to the TRI i4 and Tin T3 in my review. The Lark certainly outperforms any of the dual hybrids I have, and also most of the multi hybrids as well such as ZS10 Pro, ZS7, ZSX and C12. The timbre is very good and mids are more present than most in its price range and details are better than any single DD I have.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
