[ksb643]

If you’re talking about the rubbery wire with a fair bit of slack that is physically threaded into the cup then no, it does not contribute to the suspension mechanism.

The suspension mechanism is made up of three parts. Firstly, what I call the post, which is attached to the metal headband, then the collar which is made of a brittle, shiny plastic that the head strap rests on and the elastic band which is not visible from the outside but bridges between the two collars.

I just don't understand what you mean by cutting it on the outside. Im at work now so i can't look at the headphone. Thanks again

 

[ksb643]

I just don't understand what you mean by cutting it on the outside. Im at work now so i can't look at the headphone. Thanks again

Duh! Its in the headband. Nvm

 

[mobbaddict]

Anyone tried these with a dap. Does it it drive them to there full potential?
More comparssions with LCD-X, LCD-2 would be helpfull too. I own an Aeon2c but for some genres (metal and rock) they seem to lack ambient sounds compared to an LCD-X.
(i don't know how else to describe it)
It's like an LCD-X has a way more fuller sound and the Aeon2c has a kind of dry sound. Can the planar deliver that?

What kind of DAP do you have? Out of my smartphone or Meizu dac Hifi pro which typically put out around 30 mw, my planars sound nice compared to any typical portable dynamic headphone, but I do feel like I'm missing a little bit of technical refinement and dynamics. I think they just sound a tad slower than with my desktop amp. Not sure I would recommend a bulky planar for that sole propose. But some audiophile DAPs may have enough power.

 

[rde01]

What kind of DAP do you have? Out of my smartphone or Meizu dac Hifi pro which typically put out around 30 mw, my planars sound nice compared to any typical portable dynamic headphone, but I do feel like I'm missing a little bit of technical refinement and dynamics. I think they just sound a tad slower than with my desktop amp. Not sure I would recommend a bulky planar for that sole propose. But some audiophile DAPs may have enough power.

Ibasso DX300. If what i read in this tread is true it should have enough power. Think i'm gone try some AR-H1 pads.

 

[mobbaddict]

Ibasso DX300. If what i read in this tread is true it should have enough power. Think i'm gone try some AR-H1 pads.

It should sound good enough with this amount of power. The AR-H1 look good, especially the hybrid ones. Just beware the full leather ones will probably change the sound signature since they're not perforated. ZMF's website explains very well why you need perforations when replacing velour.

 

[SethMB]

That’s because there is a shared ground, right, and left channel between both drivers. Because of this there is a general lack of segregation between both channels.

This isn’t to say that you can’t use balanced cables but the wiring of such cables may lead to problems.

You can very easily wire each driver directly to its respective jack and then remove the connection between the ears. This would make the Planars balanced in just a few minutes.

 

[Heldaeus]

You can very easily wire each driver directly to its respective jack and then remove the connection between the ears. This would make the Planars balanced in just a few minutes.

I’ve been planning on doing this mod! When you say re-wire you simply mean to de-solder the bridge wires correct. I’m sure the others don’t need to be touched right?

 

[smorgar]

I’ve been planning on doing this mod! When you say re-wire you simply mean to de-solder the bridge wires correct. I’m sure the others don’t need to be touched right?

I'm not so sure you can just de-solder the ground between the L/R since you can connect just one 3,5mm to either cup. They are linked up and I think you have to de-solder the whole connection between them. But I'm no expert.

 

[Heldaeus]

I'm not so sure you can just de-solder the ground between the L/R since you can connect just one 3,5mm to either cup. They are linked up and I think you have to de-solder the whole connection between them. But I'm no expert.

Don’t worry we’re on the same page. In order to de-attach the bridge cable you have to de-solder two connections in each cup.

 

[SethMB]

Don’t worry we’re on the same page. In order to de-attach the bridge cable you have to de-solder two connections in each cup.

I would definitely completely desolder all connections in the bridge wire to be safe, shrink wrap the loose end on each side and then keep them tucked in the cavities. This makes the mod easily reversible.

 

[Heldaeus]

just go ahead and do include the mods. For the pricde difference with an LCD-X there some modding budget
(i can look them up in this thread but a list might be nice)

The main mods are as follows:

• Improved damping of the back volume by replacing the stock foam with compacted acoustic cotton.
• Replace and seal the pads with Vesper Audio velour pads. Use some type of acoustic putty to seal the pads directly to the baffle

I will be mailing my Planar to NoThemeReviews in the coming week(s) and hopefully he can act as a neutral listener for my mods.

 

[CockatooDude]

Ok so I ordered these headphones based on both what I read in this thread and what I saw on YouTube from NoThemeReviews. Interestingly, before I bought them I also saw the Max Settings review, and I almost immediately figured out the reasoning for it being so negative (if anyone cares still lol). When I got them out of the box and plugged in the stock cable, it went in and clicked, and I was on my merry way. Then I started listening and the sound signature sounded exactly like what he was describing, so I figured based on what Heldaeus was saying that the pads weren't sealing properly. Although just to be sure I fired up the online tone generator to see just how "in your head" the stereo separation was, well, there was no stereo separation at all. The headphones were receiving full crosstalk between the drivers, and that simply cannot arise from a pad seal issue, so that suggestion for the Max Settings review was out the window.

In the interest of being thorough I unplugged the cable and plugged it into the other side, this time it clicked in as well, but not quite as well as before, so I pushed even harder just to see if I was being stupid or not, well it turns out I was, the cable clicked in one step further and the soundstage instantly exploded into width and everything generally improved by a huge margin. Turns out that the cable is deceptively hard to plug in and I imagine that Max Settings had thought it was in when it actually wasn't, and was essentially reviewing the headphones with 100% crosstalk between the channels. So if you are looking for these headphones, make sure to really shove that cable in there until it clicks twice.

 

[Heldaeus]

Ok so I ordered these headphones based on both what I read in this thread and what I saw on YouTube from NoThemeReviews. Interestingly, before I bought them I also saw the Max Settings review, and I almost immediately figured out the reasoning for it being so negative (if anyone cares still lol). When I got them out of the box and plugged in the stock cable, it went in and clicked, and I was on my merry way. Then I started listening and the sound signature sounded exactly like what he was describing, so I figured based on what Heldaeus was saying that the pads weren't sealing properly. Although just to be sure I fired up the online tone generator to see just how "in your head" the stereo separation was, well, there was no stereo separation at all. The headphones were receiving full crosstalk between the drivers, and that simply cannot arise from a pad seal issue, so that suggestion for the Max Settings review was out the window.

In the interest of being thorough I unplugged the cable and plugged it into the other side, this time it clicked in as well, but not quite as well as before, so I pushed even harder just to see if I was being stupid or not, well it turns out I was, the cable clicked in one step further and the soundstage instantly exploded into width and everything generally improved by a huge margin. Turns out that the cable is deceptively hard to plug in and I imagine that Max Settings had thought it was in when it actually wasn't, and was essentially reviewing the headphones with 100% crosstalk between the channels. So if you are looking for these headphones, make sure to really shove that cable in there until it clicks twice.

I just tried out what you said about the two clicks and lord have mercy I can’t even fathom how someone could mess that up in a review (assuming that’s what the actual problem was).

Maybe there is plug variation because on my unit I’ve never had this issue. I never even knew there was two clicks until just now.

EDIT: is it bad that I kinda want to cyber bully Max Settings now??

 

[Bitsir]

I just tried out what you said about the two clicks and lord have mercy I can’t even fathom how someone could mess that up in a review (assuming that’s what the actual problem was).

Maybe there is plug variation because on my unit I’ve never had this issue. I never even knew there was two clicks until just now.

EDIT: is it bad that I kinda want to cyber bully Max Settings now??

I'm going to leave a comment on his review video.

 

[mobbaddict]

Ok so I ordered these headphones based on both what I read in this thread and what I saw on YouTube from NoThemeReviews. Interestingly, before I bought them I also saw the Max Settings review, and I almost immediately figured out the reasoning for it being so negative (if anyone cares still lol). When I got them out of the box and plugged in the stock cable, it went in and clicked, and I was on my merry way. Then I started listening and the sound signature sounded exactly like what he was describing, so I figured based on what Heldaeus was saying that the pads weren't sealing properly. Although just to be sure I fired up the online tone generator to see just how "in your head" the stereo separation was, well, there was no stereo separation at all. The headphones were receiving full crosstalk between the drivers, and that simply cannot arise from a pad seal issue, so that suggestion for the Max Settings review was out the window.

In the interest of being thorough I unplugged the cable and plugged it into the other side, this time it clicked in as well, but not quite as well as before, so I pushed even harder just to see if I was being stupid or not, well it turns out I was, the cable clicked in one step further and the soundstage instantly exploded into width and everything generally improved by a huge margin. Turns out that the cable is deceptively hard to plug in and I imagine that Max Settings had thought it was in when it actually wasn't, and was essentially reviewing the headphones with 100% crosstalk between the channels. So if you are looking for these headphones, make sure to really shove that cable in there until it clicks twice.

Hahahaha. This is why youtubers cannot be trusted. Never observed that issue but I will check on mine.