[Bitsir]

Well if the Avantone isn't 32 ohms but 18ohms. That means I am nearly pumping 6 Watts of power into them. I do hear a significant difference going from the SMSL M500 which outputs 500mw which still drives the Planar nicely but switching to the SH-9 dynamics, detail, air, soundstage, basically everything improves. It could just be the better components of the SH9 or more power. But I do hear a great difference. It's weird going back to the M500 alone. And the more I keep listening to the Planar, the much more it sounds closer to the LCD-X. Extremely similar in performance but the Planar being much more mature. I could call the Planar, the LCD-X MKII

My RNHP is trembling

It can deliver about 350mW into 44ohms. Not sure if it's less or more at 18ohms...


I'm probably getting a SMSL SP400 at some point. It can deliver 12 or 6 Watts into 16ohms, depending on balanced or unbalanced out.

I heard something about the Planar not able to be run balanced?

 

[Heldaeus]

Well if the Avantone isn't 32 ohms but 18ohms. That means I am nearly pumping 6 Watts of power into them.

You just have a lot of overhead that you’re not using. Keep in mind that if our headphone has an impedance of 18 ohms and a sensitivity of 104 dB/mW and let's say (for arbitrary reasons) that our target loudness is 110 dB SPL then we only need 4 milliwatts to reach that target. So, whether our amps are rated for 500mW or 6W doesn't really matter because it's still the same 4 mW.

That does assume that our test signal is playing at full scale and is a perfect sine wave but in this situation, the signal, i.e. music, varies too much from person to person to be considered.

For the most part you’re nowhere close to pumping 6 watts into these cans.

 

[rde01]

Anyone tried these with a dap. Does it it drive them to there full potential?
More comparssions with LCD-X, LCD-2 would be helpfull too. I own an Aeon2c but for some genres (metal and rock) they seem to lack ambient sounds compared to an LCD-X.
(i don't know how else to describe it)
It's like an LCD-X has a way more fuller sound and the Aeon2c has a kind of dry sound. Can the planar deliver that?

 

[Heldaeus]

My RNHP is trembling

It can deliver about 350mW into 44ohms. Not sure if it's less or more at 18ohms...

Should be more as per less resistance.

I heard something about the Planar not able to be run balanced?

Not truly.

 

[Heldaeus]

Anyone tried these with a dap. Does it it drive them to there full potential?
More comparssions with LCD-X, LCD-2 would be helpfull too. I own an Aeon2c but for some genres (metal and rock) they seem to lack ambient sounds compared to an LCD-X.
(i don't know how else to describe it)
It's like an LCD-X has a way more fuller sound and the Aeon2c has a kind of dry sound. Can the planar deliver that?

I would give my full impressions by my pair is too heavily modded away from stock that my opinion would be meaningless.

I will say that the midrange in the 2-5kHz region is more desirable than the LCD-X to my ears. 200-1000Hz is faster on the Audeze. It’s been a while since I’ve listened to the LCD-2 and LCD-X though.

 

[rde01]

I would give my impressions by my pair is too heavily modded away from stock that my opinion would be meaningless.

just go ahead and do include the mods. For the pricde difference with an LCD-X there some modding budget
(i can look them up in this thread but a list might be nice)

 

[Heldaeus]

just go ahead and do include the mods. For the pricde difference with an LCD-X there some modding budget
(i can look them up in this thread but a list might be nice)

I’ll get back to you with a list

 

[ksb643]

I’ll get back to you with a list

You an mobaddict have been very helpful with us new to diy. I know at some point you had mentioned cutting the ground wire? Do you disassemble the ear cups?

 

[Heldaeus]

You an mobaddict have been very helpful with us new to diy. I know at some point you had mentioned cutting the ground wire? Do you disassemble the ear cups?

You could technically cut the wire on the outside but I personally think it’s better to de-solder it on the inside then tuck the wire away from the vents.

I haven’t done this mod yet but I’m planning on doing it. Right now I’m researching soldering irons. Don’t tell anybody but I’m new to soldering

 

[ksb643]

You could technically cut the wire on the outside but I personally think it’s better to de-solder it on the inside then tuck the wire away from the vents.

I haven’t done this mod yet but I’m planning on doing it. Right now I’m researching soldering irons. Don’t tell anybody but I’m new to soldering

Lol we won't tell.... Do you mean cutting the rubber band thing? Isn't that part of suspension?

 

[Bitsir]

Should be more as per less resistance.

Not truly.

Do you know why it can't be run truly balanced? I don't doubt you, I just can't see why it can't

 

[rde01]

Anyone found some nice angled pads for them already that give them some nice bass kick?
Also if you need help soldering i can help you out. first tip: do not hold the hot end against your skin
Also a +20€ soldering iron with a thin tip will do. get a seperate stand and a soldering pump too.

 

[Heldaeus]

Do you know why it can't be run truly balanced? I don't doubt you, I just can't see why it can't

That’s because there is a shared ground, right, and left channel between both drivers. Because of this there is a general lack of segregation between both channels.

This isn’t to say that you can’t use balanced cables but the wiring of such cables may lead to problems.

 

[Heldaeus]

Anyone found some nice angled pads for them already that give them some nice bass kick?

Im using a pair of custom Vesper Audio angled velour pads. They offer a superb seal; great sub bass extension.

Also if you need help soldering i can help you out. first tip: do not hold the hot end against your skin
Also a +20€ soldering iron with a thin tip will do. get a seperate stand and a soldering pump too.

I’ll try my hardest and thanks for the advise!

 

[Heldaeus]

Do you mean cutting the rubber band thing? Isn't that part of suspension?

If you’re talking about the rubbery wire with a fair bit of slack that is physically threaded into the cup then no, it does not contribute to the suspension mechanism.

The suspension mechanism is made up of three parts. Firstly, what I call the post, which is attached to the metal headband, then the collar which is made of a brittle, shiny plastic that the head strap rests on and the elastic band which is not visible from the outside but bridges between the two collars.