Aune T1 USB Tube DAC+ SS Amp Discussion Thread ***See first post for FAQ--Updated on 02/14/15***
Jul 10, 2013 at 7:18 AM Post #2,281 of 8,309
Quote:
Come on guys why don't you just read more? Once again please check post #2016 on page 135, http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/2010#post_9502294 I've spent much time creating this info. There is specific OG info section and a section which teaches you to interpret factory codes. The old 60's halo getters are the "real" orange globes. They later introduced stronger A-frame support from which the globe logo is often missing. Coil has compared different orange prints and according to his impressions the older ones are the best, but they all sound very good. A-frames are often much cheaper. To be accurate, orange print means all orange print amperexes and OG means the older version where the actual globe is printed in the logo.
 
Beware of the infamous red label amperexes. They are british made and apparently way worse than the real deal.

 
Actually from what I understand A-frame started before orange labels even came, which they were incorporated for some white labels around the same time as Bugle Boys.. 60s is the period of Bugel Boys and OEM White Labels, orange prints in what ever form only came after that, 1968 onwards. And A-frames only existed for 6DJB/7DJ8 tube types..They are not cheap as they are thought here to be.. OG is good, but IMHO, A-frame exhibited a class of timbre and air way above the OG.. but still, all these are just personal tastes with variation to equipment and best is to hear one yourself!
 
Anyway, these are all inferences from all sources available and the only fact to approve all these diagnosis is when a 6DJ8 manual/guide book appear from Amperex or Philips.. the year part is especially ambiguous with the last letter being the last number of the year..
 
but here is a link to see some old tear sheets from these famous plants! http://vintagetubeservices.com/page8.html
 
Jul 10, 2013 at 12:40 PM Post #2,282 of 8,309
Wow. I just finished setting up my Aune T1 and AKG K240 headphones. I'm not an audiophile but my music has NEVER sounded better (CDs ripped to flac). I've had the K240s for a couple of years and I was pretty disappointed with them when plugged directly into my computer. As many have reported before me I now hear things I've never heard in my favorite songs. The T1 + the moderately priced K240 sound amazing. I'll try an upgraded tube later and the T1 might prod me into getting some proper high-end headphones too. I'm very, very happy with the T1.
 
My T1 came with the EH tube even though it wasn't advertised as the "upgrade" T1. The included gold plated 1/8 to 1/4" headphone adapter was a nice surprise. I ordered from musitank-usa on ebay and delivery from China took 11 days. It came with all gain dip switches on for 16db gain. I needed the mid position of 10db for the K240.
 
Jul 10, 2013 at 1:00 PM Post #2,283 of 8,309
Quote:
OG is good, but IMHO, A-frame exhibited a class of timbre and air way above the OG. 

I have GAC, GA8 and GAE. All of them should have orange globe logos printed on them. Personally I find GAC being most musical and with "open" highs. Differences are VERY little and yes, GAE & GA8 have more noticeable "timbre" but is it certainly better? I find GAC coded to be with more dynamical and "open" highs section and less fatiguing. But it somewhat depends on cans also.
Can`t find the post atm but I saw a post somewhere where all different OG logo marked tubes were nicely listed and guy stated, that there are probably more types to be found. 
GAC coded are only OG`s with single support leg dimple disc getter. Earlier OG marking tubes were BB`s with single support leg o-ring getter and later 70`s had A-frame support dimple disc getter. GAC`s were made in only short period, probably between 68-70` and as far as I know - only Heerlen Holland plant made them.
Like I´ve told before, GA8 is more towards GAC and GAE being more towards to Mullard ECC88 (Heerlen A-frame, GAG delta 5D2) & Philips PCC189 (Heerlen A-Frame). Differences are little and hard to notice but they are there and this is my opinion about them. Hope it helps.
 
Jul 10, 2013 at 3:23 PM Post #2,285 of 8,309
Well, GAC OG`s are really hard to find actually.
Well, I`m going to probably hate myself for posting these offers but since I have GAC + 2x golden logo Ultron SQ PCC189`s (that imho are littlebit better or at least same good depending on music), I`m giving up those opportunities to someone else. Here are 2 pairs of GAC`s:
 
1) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/matched-pair-Amperex-ECC88-6DJ8-E88CC-6922-7308-E188CC-/261242685022?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3cd347065e
 
2) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/matched-pair-Amperex-ECC88-6DJ8-E88CC-6922-7308-E188CC-/261242685017?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3cd3470659
 
And also 2 pairs of Amperex PQ`s (not sure they are same GAE coded PQ that I have):
 
1) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/matched-pair-Amperex-PQ-ECC88-6DJ8-A-frame-E88CC-6922-7308-E188CC-/261239372462?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3cd3147aae
 
2) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/matched-pair-Amperex-PQ-ECC88-6DJ8-A-frame-E88CC-6922-7308-E188CC-/261239372460?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3cd3147aac
 
 
E: btw, I found opportunity from my country webshop to order E188CC/7308 for only 27€ piece ;P Unfortunately there are no pics or info other than that they are made in US. Still thinking about pulling trigger on that. This is a large, know & safe electronic components importer website/company, so it should be safe and accurate. 
 
 
Jul 10, 2013 at 5:18 PM Post #2,286 of 8,309
I do not know if what I seek is inside this thread but ill just ask because that will be probably a faster route for me to get my answer, did anyone in here had any chance to listen to the aune T1 with an IEM?
 
Jul 10, 2013 at 7:26 PM Post #2,287 of 8,309
Just an update- I'm loving my aune t1, and the amperex PQs I have.
I've got another question for you guys, though.  Does the tube socket ever need replacing?  I'm just wondering if pulling out tubes and plugging them in again damages the metal over a period of time.
If so, will any 6922/6dj8 socket work?
I don't imagine that I will have to do this, but I'm just making sure.
Edit: A couple pages back someone mentioned a tube socket saver.  Might pick that up.
 
Jul 11, 2013 at 12:22 AM Post #2,288 of 8,309
Edit: A couple pages back someone mentioned a tube socket saver.  Might pick that up.


Me too, I'm always nervous about plugging and unplugging tubes too often for fear of loosening the socket. Luckily I like my NOS Amperex JAN 7308 green (1968) so much that I don't expect to do much rolling for a while. Still the socket saver sounds like a worthwhile investment.
 
Jul 11, 2013 at 7:59 AM Post #2,289 of 8,309
sorry guys, did some more digging and found that there are some GAC coded OG`s with O-ring getters also but they are rare and are probably made right before transitional single leg dimple disc version.
 
Jul 11, 2013 at 1:10 PM Post #2,290 of 8,309
sorry guys, did some more digging and found that there are some GAC coded OG`s with O-ring getters also but they are rare and are probably made right before transitional single leg dimple disc version.


I actually am waiting for a pair of GAC OG's with O-ring getters:)

Have received a shipment og 6n23P's today. 5 Voshkods and 2 Reflektors. The Voshkods(Rockets) Date, 69, 70, 73, 75 and 80. The Reflektors Date 64 and 67. Curios to find out how the different years will sound.
 
Jul 12, 2013 at 5:00 AM Post #2,292 of 8,309
Jul 12, 2013 at 6:07 AM Post #2,293 of 8,309
Can anyone confirm if this is a good buy?  http://www.tubemonger.com/NOVIB_Socket_Saver_with_Vibration_Red_B9A_NOVAL_p/novib-cos.htm

Or if this will work in the aune socket?  A previous poster appears to be using his just fine.
I guess what I want to know if there is a better option for the money, as in a high quality replacement socket for the aune or something like that.


I use the same socket savers in my tube equipment, including the T1 I have. I think these are about the best sockets you can get for the money... expensive but well worth it, if only for the piece of mind.
 
Jul 12, 2013 at 2:57 PM Post #2,294 of 8,309
Hey guys, i'm having a little problem with my T1 about a month in...
When I power it on I don't hear anything from my headphones until the blue light turns on. But then once the blue lights on in the tube and it's powered I get this static-like rustling sound from the left headphone. I'm almost certain it's the tube by now.. this is disappointing since it's only been a month or two. I'm REALLY hoping it's the tube though, so I can just get a even more upgraded tube. I'm certain it's not my headphones, i've tried them on various other devices and it's NOT the headphones. Please to god, it be the tube though. Anyway I don't believe it's even affecting the sound quality but I almost can hear the kick drum getting distorted.... I'm not sure if it's just my songs.  Anybody else experience issues like this?
 
And can anybody reccomend some easy to get, great sounding tubes for under 60$ that I can get in Canada.
 
Jul 12, 2013 at 3:58 PM Post #2,295 of 8,309
Hey guys, i'm having a little problem with my T1 about a month in...
When I power it on I don't hear anything from my headphones until the blue light turns on. But then once the blue lights on in the tube and it's powered I get this static-like rustling sound from the left headphone. I'm almost certain it's the tube by now.. this is disappointing since it's only been a month or two. I'm REALLY hoping it's the tube though, so I can just get a even more upgraded tube. I'm certain it's not my headphones, i've tried them on various other devices and it's NOT the headphones. Please to god, it be the tube though. Anyway I don't believe it's even affecting the sound quality but I almost can hear the kick drum getting distorted.... I'm not sure if it's just my songs.  Anybody else experience issues like this?

And can anybody reccomend some easy to get, great sounding tubes for under 60$ that I can get in Canada.


It's the tube.
Try cleaning the pins with the backside of an xacto knife to clean off any oxidation on them. They should be shiny.
Try re-seating the tube after that.
There's several tube guides around this thread. For that kind of money I'd look at German or Holland made 7308 tubes.
 

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