[Devmoo]

All I can say is holly freaking crap these sound funomenal! I should note Coil I like my music pretty damn loud so, 10 DB and almost max volume is really good.

 

[spacequeen7]

  Okay...my head is spinning...LOL
 
For vinyl its a different set.
 
So in keeping with this use, we are talking a mix of newer music - Katy Perry, Maroon 5, 3 doors down, Carrie Underwood..oh and throw in some Travis Tritt, as well as some old school rock (but the latter is usually vinyl, not through the DAC)
 
I liked the thought of the Amperex 7308 but now I am going to also look at the Amperex 6GM8. Hmm...have to think ..must process data...loop..LOL
 
As to Brent Jesse, he borrows some of his own descriptions (his Mullard is the same as what he says about the 12AX7 and 12AU7). I like Blackburn plant and not the India or Canada versions.
 
I also want to get a tube that tests VERY closely matched both sides since the T1 uses both sides - one side per channel - I am thinking balance
 
I will keep searching and thank you ALL for the input !!! Helps me on my way !

good luck man and please report back with your findings ,I'm looking for Mullard myself 

 

[CoiL]

acrorob, balanced triodes are not important in case of Aune T1 imo. I have some tubes that are measured with different triode values (not sure how true & accurate results) but they sound great and are no way out of channel balance or anything else.

 

[CoiL]

  All I can say is holly freaking crap these sound funomenal! I should note Coil I like my music pretty damn loud so, 10 DB and almost max volume is really good.

Go easy with it, they are 35Ohm cans, though planars are hard to drive.

 

[CoiL]

good luck man and please report back with your findings ,I'm looking for Mullard myself 

If you want warm & intimate tubey sound for older rock etc. music then these should be great

 
Mullard PCC189 Blackburn with good price (can`t make out from the pic if they are with grey or metal vertical center plate, I think grey plate was better if I remember correctly): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Matched-pair-Mullard-PCC189-7ES8-tubes-shield-logo-NIB-excellent-condition-/390726042813?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item5af91644bd

 
Edit: Note to myself - got to learn edit posts not post 3 posts in row ;D Over & out! Merry X-mas!

 

[Salvatore]

  The Aune T1 is sufficiently powerful enough to handle the HD650 on highest gain. Although it barely reaches my "max" loudness.

  HD650 should be 300Ohm if I`m correct, so you should use higher gain position +10dB (little DIP switches at bottom of Aune T1) or maybe even highest +16dB gain as user magusunltd said he uses.

  I've the sennheiser hd580 which is 300ohm as well , and I'm using +10 gains. I only need to turn knob between 8 and 9 oclock and its sufficiently loud enough. 

 
I have compared HD650 against my K702 anniversaries and the HD650 are definitely easier to drive. For both headphones 0 gain is sufficient imo (volume levels maxed from my pc). With max gain I can't go very high with the volume. It seems that some of you guys are listening very loud. Just be sure not to damage your ears. isendono seems to be using reasonable levels.

 

[icecap]

for all the Siemens mention, I am quite surprise so little was being said on the true E88CC version as the 6922 substitutes for T1.. with the time this festive period offers, I guess this tube should really deserve more recognition, especially for those that craves for some premium value in tube selection for T1..
 
as far as I know, there were variations in the metal tags inside the tube; A6, A4, A3, A2 etc, in order of performance, seemingly, and price as one can expect.. over the time I have had it, my A6 version is already one that gives me all smiles which, frankly, I really not sure if there are any other tubes that can push the performance significantly higher without paying a more hefty price for a single tube..
 
on my DT990Pro, the separation is very distinct.. I came to realise to be able to hear so many aspect of the instruments playing in creation of the music is really very enjoyable.. I can follow the beat of the drum at the rear of my head, or notice the snare lightly at the top right of my head.. you get what I mean? when certain recordings were very well mastered, that can really show as the soundstage is no longer limited to width, but also height and depth.. 3D sounding or holographic in this sense is really appropriate..
 
and in my opinion, this Siemens E88CC I just could not describe how forward is the midrange, how much fall off is the highs, how low the bass can extend.. the cleaniness and separation of the sound just draw me to listen to music without bother much on the 3 frequencies.. maybe I am used to DT990pro sound signature which is a V-shape, so if I am not particular on any frequency response from this tube, it could just be it is very balanced from top to bottom..
 
I understand there are other higher end tubes for this series, Valvo, Telefunken, CCa.. at almost, twice or more of this tube, I am not sure if the performance increase is ever gonna in folds, probably unless I upgrade my cans to be able to discern that.. and to put into perspective, I did tried out a 7308 from my friend and I am glad I got the Siemens E88CC..

 

[CoiL]

 
and in my opinion, this Siemens E88CC I just could not describe how forward is the midrange, how much fall off is the highs, how low the bass can extend.. the cleaniness and separation of the sound just draw me to listen to music without bother much on the 3 frequencies.. maybe I am used to DT990pro sound signature which is a V-shape, so if I am not particular on any frequency response from this tube, it could just be it is very balanced from top to bottom..

Sounds like a description to my Siemens PCC189 (the one made in Blackburn according to eched code). Although with certain music and bands I find some other tubes better due to soundstage difference or some nuances "boosted".

 

[arcorob]

Can someone answer what might be a silly newbie question but I will ask anyway as searching the 245 pages might exceed my abilities...LOL
 
Okay, so on the T1, we have the USB input through the DAC, through the Tube and RCA out analog signal
 
It has been said that using the RCA in uses the DAC but no the tube. I am with you so far.
 
But here is my question - Anything going IN the RCA In's is analog anyway by default (it has to be) so what purpose does it serve to go through the DAC ? what is gained ?
 
Thanks in advance...

 

[MrEleventy]

Can someone answer what might be a silly newbie question but I will ask anyway as searching the 245 pages might exceed my abilities...LOL

Okay, so on the T1, we have the USB input through the DAC, through the Tube and RCA out analog signal

It has been said that using the RCA in uses the DAC but no the tube. I am with you so far.

But here is my question - Anything going IN the RCA In's is analog anyway by default (it has to be) so what purpose does it serve to go through the DAC ? what is gained ?

Thanks in advance...

Incorrect, RCA in uses the SS amp. DAC is not being used at all. It's just amping whatever is being fed in.

 

[arcorob]

Incorrect, RCA in uses the SS amp. DAC is not being used at all. It's just amping whatever is being fed in.

Okay..that makes sense - Thanks !

 

[CoiL]

Tube-nuts, help me out... I took some serious look @ my 6GM8/ECC86 Amperex tube etched code with magnifying glass & strong light + reflections and just can`t find any tiny trace of etched code print at the place of one symbol spot. All I can see is clear⊿oJ5. etched core is in very good condition. Could it be that the symbol behind ⊿ is not 6 or 8 and is little o ? And if I compare it with the curve size of that nr.5 at the end of the code then it`s smaller, since it is lower ring part of 8, all I`m guessing that it is just little o. Could it be? And what does it say then? usually it means the year it`s made.

 

[slovetro]

I know all that. I`m not newbie in this  I have some Blackburn made tubes also, labeled as Mullard, Valvo, Mazda and even one Siemens was Blackburn made if I remember correctly (don`t bother to bring them all out to check)  Also be warned that Blackburn made doesn`t always mean "warm" sounding tube, for example Mazda PCC189 I have is roughly said like 6922EH sounding with large soundstage and clarity with slightly "recessed" mids compared with old Mullard shield logo PCC189 which has warm intimate tubey sound (and I have 2 different versions of this which sound different) especially good for old rock & jazz  or Valvo PCC88 - they all are Blackburn made.


Btw, acrorob, for which music genre you are mainly listening? Again I have to point out that 1 great tube doesn`t mean it`s good for every genre. For example my Amperex OG 6GM8/ECC86 is "best" & most holographic sounding tube I have but it surely isn`t best for every genre. Most of the time I still find myself listening with Amperex OG 6DJ8/ECC88 GAC, Ultron SQ PCC189 & Siemens PCC189 with progressive rock/metal/djent/jazz. For electronic atmospheric music I mainly use Miniwatt-Dario ECC189, JAN Sylvania 6922 & 6922EH. If I would think of tube more-or-less good for all genres, I would probably choose Siemens PCC189.


Edit, again! ;D

Found one intresting offer, Ei PCC189 (Philips, probably Heerlen made) tubes for 8$, anyone willing to try? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PCC189-audio-double-triode-tube-NOS-FREE-SHIPPING-/301003673822?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item46153790de

and again...

One ITT Lorenz PCC189 (Heerlen) with crazy price: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ITT-Lorenz-PCC189-/121237246587?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item1c3a4d927b
I Have 2x Lorenz SEL labeled Heerlen PCC189`s and they are very similiar sounding to Philips PCC189 & Mullard ECC88.

and edit again...

Mullard PCC189 Blackburn with good price (can`t make out from the pic if they are with grey or metal vertical center plate, I think grey plate was better if I remember correctly): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Matched-pair-Mullard-PCC189-7ES8-tubes-shield-logo-NIB-excellent-condition-/390726042813?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item5af91644bd

For only $8, I'm interested in giving that tube a try. Is it really a shot in the dark or do you think it is likely a good tube?

 

[CoiL]

Can`t say anything for sure but I have one Philips PCC189 (Heerlen Holland) and it is very good, for me it sounds very similiar to Mullard ECC88 (newer shield logo Heerlen Holland) & Lorenz SEL PCC189 (Heerlen Holland) & GAE coded Amperex PQ shield logo 6DJ8. They all look with same inner build as this Ei tube. I`m just guessing but those Ei PCC189 should be pretty good and for 8$ it`s worth to try imo. I`ve gotten most of my tubes with even lower price and discovered some very good tubes that are worth many times the price imho. But it`s up to you. I have 44 tubes atm and 3/4 of them are very good, though about 10-15 of them stand out from others. Other 1/4 includes tubes that are not for my taste (some might find them very good), 1 or 2 out of those suck imo (watching movies/serial/documentals with those because of easy sounding dialogue).

 

[mhamel]

  Tube-nuts, help me out... I took some serious look @ my 6GM8/ECC86 Amperex tube etched code with magnifying glass & strong light + reflections and just can`t find any tiny trace of etched code print at the place of one symbol spot. All I can see is clear⊿oJ5. etched core is in very good condition. Could it be that the symbol behind ⊿ is not 6 or 8 and is little o ? And if I compare it with the curve size of that nr.5 at the end of the code then it`s smaller, since it is lower ring part of 8, all I`m guessing that it is just little o. Could it be? And what does it say then? usually it means the year it`s made.

 
It's probably the bottom of a 6 or 8.   What does the getter construction on that tube look like?  That may help narrow down the year, too.
 
There wouldn't be a lowercase "o" in that position that I'm aware of.  The first year of 6GM8 production was 1958, so it would have the standard Philips etch code structure, where it's the last digit of the production year as the character following the factory symbol, in that case ⊿ for Herleen.