[Hansotek]

Well, according to the T1's spec here: http://www.noisymotel.com/product.asp?ProductID=449 (aune's official site is down for days), the T1 got output impedance of 10 ohms. I don't know if it's true or not, but if it's true, then yeah, might not be ideal for low impedance headphones....

It is 10 ohm. It's not the ideal 8:1 ratio, but I've never had many complaints about using the Aune with 32 ohm headphones.

 

[NCSUZoSo]

I know this isn't related to the Aune T1 (although I will use it with them), but I just got a GREAT deal on a set of like new Shure SE425s!! (~$200)
 
I can't wait to hear these babies

 
I hope they pair well with my Cowon iAudio 9+
 

It is 10 ohm. It's not the ideal 8:1 ratio, but I've never had many complaints about using the Aune with 32 ohm headphones.

 
I use them with 32Ω headphones every time I use the T1 (SoundMAGIC HP150).  Isn't the sensitivity just as or more important than the ohm rating?  My HP150s are 95dB/mW @ 1KHz (±3dB).

 

[creatip]

  I use them with 32Ω headphones every time I use the T1 (SoundMAGIC HP150).  Isn't the sensitivity just as or more important than the ohm rating?  My HP150s are 95dB/mW @ 1KHz (±3dB).

 
It also doesn't do anything (bad) to the sound, that I know of, to my 35 ohms HE400. Experimented on this tho, I deliberately added another load to add the output impedance. Added 22 ohms resistors to each channels, making a total of 32 ohms output impedance, feeding to a 35 ohms can. Purpose? Just bored, I guess It did do something to the sound. Hard to describe the difference, but it's there. 

 

[Hansotek]

 

It is 10 ohm. It's not the ideal 8:1 ratio, but I've never had many complaints about using the Aune with 32 ohm headphones.

 
I use them with 32Ω headphones every time I use the T1 (SoundMAGIC HP150).  Isn't the sensitivity just as or more important than the ohm rating?  My HP150s are 95dB/mW @ 1KHz (±3dB).

 
They're different. The relationship between the output impedance of the amp and the headphone impedance is the damping factor. If the damping factor is too low, it can create unwanted resonances in the headphone's voice coil. This usually manifests as a loss of low frequency control and earlier bass roll-off. 
 
Here's an easy way to visualize it:
Imagine a bass note as a truck rolling down a hill. At the bottom of the hill there is a line where the truck is supposed to stop. Now imagine the damping factor as the brakes. If the brakes are strong enough, the truck can stop at the line where it is supposed to. If the brakes aren't strong enough, it will coast over the line before it comes to a full stop.
 
A damping ratio of 8:1 or greater essentially means "the brakes are strong enough to stop at the line." In reality, how noticeable or pleasurable this accuracy is, is probably somewhat subjective.

 

[creatip]

   
Here's an easy way to visualize it:
Imagine a bass note as a truck rolling down a hill. At the bottom of the hill there is a line where the truck is supposed to stop. Now imagine the damping factor as the brakes. If the brakes are strong enough, the truck can stop at the line where it is supposed to. If the brakes aren't strong enough, it will coast over the line before it comes to a full stop.
 
A damping ratio of 8:1 or greater essentially means "the brakes are strong enough to stop at the line." In reality, how noticeable or pleasurable this accuracy is, is probably somewhat subjective.

 
Oh man, this is good. Permission to copy the analogy to other topics/forums

 

[Hansotek]

 

   
Here's an easy way to visualize it:
Imagine a bass note as a truck rolling down a hill. At the bottom of the hill there is a line where the truck is supposed to stop. Now imagine the damping factor as the brakes. If the brakes are strong enough, the truck can stop at the line where it is supposed to. If the brakes aren't strong enough, it will coast over the line before it comes to a full stop.
 
A damping ratio of 8:1 or greater essentially means "the brakes are strong enough to stop at the line." In reality, how noticeable or pleasurable this accuracy is, is probably somewhat subjective.

 
Oh man, this is good. Permission to copy the analogy to other topics/forums

 
Go for it. Electricity isn't the easiest thing to understand. I find these sort of "high school science class" analogies definitely help.

 

[Hansotek]

Huge 6922 tube review thread just launched, for anyone who is interested: http://www.head-fi.org/t/761078/6922-tube-review-17-top-6922-6n23p-e88cc-cca-7308-e188cc-tubes

 

[Chs177]

Huge 6922 tube review thread just launched, for anyone who is interested: http://www.head-fi.org/t/761078/6922-tube-review-17-top-6922-6n23p-e88cc-cca-7308-e188cc-tubes

Bob used Lyr, so experience with Aune T1 may be different.
Just for example - Bob likes Russian tubes with Lyr and I have several (including  75' SWGP - best tube in his rating) and it sounds as "nothing special" in the Aune T1.

 

[hdtv00]

Yea true but I'd consider a Lyr 1 or 2 far above the Aune T1 even without even hearing either. Aune T1 is entry level at best I'd think. Also one thing I quickly went through that and didn't seen one mention of an Orange Globe, how in the heck do you review 6922 and not mention Orange G's. But maybe I went through it to fast I was multitasking.

 

[Hansotek]

I have both. Lyr punches in a higher weight class, but many of the tube qualities translate from one to the other, in my experience. Just posting the resource.

 

[hdtv00]

Yep I'm finding myself that Aune T1 is ok. Just ok nice step up from normal usage. Has tube so it can impact sound by what tube you put in it. But it's not an amp. I'll just say that right now. It doesn't sound or act like a power amp I always read about, but it can't for sure add texture to the sound depending on tube. Now take this like I have to the next level and add a bottlehead crack for that amp for that for real power and BAM. That's it folks. It's THE reason you keep seeing people saying crack this or crack that , next level for Senn's. Either way you slice it I'm here to tell you it does matter and it is for real. I am not rich , I in fact would go as far as to say I'm the poorest person here in the entire forum. I've taken YEARS to take a step one way or another. But I will say you're on the right path here on the forum. So so much information here on what is what and how things sound.
 
It's up to you how far you want to take things. But I'm here to tell ya , it doesn't cost that much and you're not far away from perfection from what you're seeking. It's out there , believe.

 

[JimmyClean]

Hi, I'm a long time reader of head-fi, but this is my first post.
 
I was wondering if anyone here knows of a tube supplier in the UK or Europe?
I recently ordered the T1 and would rather like an amperex 7308, however everywhere i look seems to be located in the states.
 
Shipping costs from the states to the UK is significant at $56 average by fedex.
Obviously the longer the journey the greater change for it to get broken too.
 
Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[mikoss]

  Hi, I'm a long time reader of head-fi, but this is my first post.
 
I was wondering if anyone here knows of a tube supplier in the UK or Europe?
I recently ordered the T1 and would rather like an amperex 7308, however everywhere i look seems to be located in the states.
 
Shipping costs from the states to the UK is significant at $56 average by fedex.
Obviously the longer the journey the greater change for it to get broken too.
 
Thanks in advance for your help.

Sure... eBay is your best bet. Here are some from ebay.co.uk:
 
GREAT DEAL IF THEY WORK: Mullard branded, Amperex Holland made E88CC (Long life tube, just not as strict specs as 7308):
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/e88cc-Mullard-Valve-Gold-Pins-Made-In-Holland-Rare-Tube-Cv2492-/281631925745?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item41929225f1
 
These will work for sure... Mullard branded, Amperex Holland made E88CC: 60GBP + shipping
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/E88CC-MULLARD-HOLLAND-6DJ8-GOLD-PIN-NOS-VALVE-TUBE-B-/370617910615?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item564a8c8557
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/E88CC-MULLARD-HOLLAND-6DJ8-GOLD-PIN-NOS-VALVE-TUBE-1PC-/370617910584?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item564a8c8538
 
Mazda branded Amperex 7308 (Made in Holland, will have nice midrange): 60 GBP including shipping (from Belgium)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/E188CC-CV4108-7308-6922WA-PHILIPS-RADIO-TUBE-VALVOLA-VALVE-AMP-ROHRE-/281486532338?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4189e79ef2
 
Siemens E188CC (Will have a more neutral sound, compared to the Amperex tube): 50 GBP + Shipping
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Siemens-E188CC-7308-Twin-Triode-Tube-for-Audio-High-End-E88CC-CCa-NOS-/171741765735?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item27fc9b6067
 
As for other suppliers in the UK, here are some from Google:
https://www.tube-and-valve-electronics.co.uk/wholesale/results.asp?ProdCode=e88cc&searchbutton=Go+%3E
http://www.vacuum-tube-shop.com/index.php?url=products
 
Also, I would never pay for Fedex... what a rip off. Use the regular post, just make sure that it is tracked and insured, if you want. I've bought over 60 tubes from eBay and never had a broken one yet. Did have one tube from a pair of 5998's that was noisy and returned to the seller. I honestly think eBay is your best bet. I live in North America and if someone ships from their local post, it usually works the best. Just gets converted to your local post when it crosses into your country, and you avoid paying excessive shipping fees.

 

[mikoss]

I would love to compare the T1 with Elna Silmic II caps to the Lyr to the Lyr2 to the BH Crack to the WA2. All with premium tubes in them, of course.
 
I'm away from home 50% of the time and use my T1 with HD-650's... I have no desire to get a different portable amp with it at all. Sure, the WA2 adds a lot to the sound once I get home to listen, but the T1 does me just fine. What seems to help me the most is having a super quiet listening environment... I even go so far as to unplug the tiny fridge in a hotel room I'm staying in if I can. To me, it makes a huge difference having as much quiet as possible.
 
I'm also more into the smooth, airy, warm, romantic sound than a punchy, quick, transparent presentation, so perhaps this factors in. As an example, I have Tung Sol 5998 tubes for the WA2 that I don't normally use; I prefer GEC 6080, or Tung Sol 7236, which don't seem to emphasize the power/bass like the 5998's. The 7236 tubes have a beautiful soundstage, and the 6080 tubes have magical liquid mids.

 

[Chs177]

  Hi, I'm a long time reader of head-fi, but this is my first post.
 
I was wondering if anyone here knows of a tube supplier in the UK or Europe?

http://www.langrex.co.uk/
I bought several tubes from it.