Aune S17 pro

[AuneAudio]

Also, can anyone help me with how the battery needs to be replaced for the S17 pro's remote? There is no way to charge it.

I downloaded the manual but it doesn't mention anything about the remote.

@AuneAudio if you can help?

Hi, please refer to this:

@ngohw Hi, the remote battery is CR1220; Please use a T6 screwdriver.

 

[SmartCheetah]

90% of temperature issues - aside from the extreme cases and very high ambient temps - would be non-existent if they elevated it a little by adding feet. Simple as this. It makes a huge difference, 5 degrees easily in my case, staying at 59-62 depending on my room temperature and headphones connected.

 

[ngohw]

From what I recall didn’t they say the 69c auto shutdown is way below a temperature that would actually affect the internals anyway? It can get as hot as it wants but as long as the internals aren’t getting fried to death I couldn’t care less

 

[SmartCheetah]

From what I recall didn’t they say the 69c auto shutdown is way below a temperature that would actually affect the internals anyway?

They said even 80 degrees would be safe for the internals (we would burn our hands at that temp, but that's another story ) So yeah, there's a threshold, and anything below 69 for the 100mA mode is fine.

 

[Borat]

I purchased the AC Infinity S7 dual fans mainly to use with my Musical Fidelity A1 (2023), which is a Class A speaker amplifier also known for getting really hot like the S17 Pro.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JLV4BWC?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

I'm also using the fans with my S17 Pro, but since there are no vents on the casing, they seem to mostly be cooling the outside of the case.

This made me curious where the temperature being displayed on the screen is taken from.

Is it from the casing or from the components on the inside?

Because the fan is doing a good job, even on low, of preventing the temp from reaching 69 C.

But I wonder if I should be using the fans at all because if the automatic switch to 50mA at 69 C happens to prevent damage to the internal components, maybe I shouldn't be relying on the temperature display if it is going by the case temp and not from the internals?

BTW, I'm all in on amplifiers that operate high bias Class A and are hot AF.

Both my S17 Pro and Musical Fidelity A1 sound fantastic.

 

[Simon Patten]

90% of temperature issues - aside from the extreme cases and very high ambient temps - would be non-existent if they elevated it a little by adding feet. Simple as this. It makes a huge difference, 5 degrees easily in my case, staying at 59-62 depending on my room temperature and headphones connected.

Agreed, it needs raising by at least 1/2 inch/1.2cm to allow better air flow underneath, but Erick Muller and myself did some testing earlier in the thread and came to the conclusion that the headphone cable makes a big difference too. Using my Null Audio cable the S17 stays at 59-60 degrees for days (literally) but if I replace it with the cable that came with my HEKS, the temperature immediately starts rising and it drops back to 50ma mode within an hour. Admittedly they are different lengths but we believe that the S17 is particularly sensitive to the quality of the cable as nothing else changed and we saw similar results comparing cheap/supplied and more expensive cables.

If the temperature problem is too much for you, I'd suggest buying a better headphone cable which will improve the sound quality and hopefully make the amp usable without adding fans. (I'm happy to recommend Null Audio, they make nice cables.)

 

[MiguelP]

Agreed, it needs raising by at least 1/2 inch/1.2cm to allow better air flow underneath, but Erick Muller and myself did some testing earlier in the thread and came to the conclusion that the headphone cable makes a big difference too. Using my Null Audio cable the S17 stays at 59-60 degrees for days (literally) but if I replace it with the cable that came with my HEKS, the temperature immediately starts rising and it drops back to 50ma mode within an hour. Admittedly they are different lengths but we believe that the S17 is particularly sensitive to the quality of the cable as nothing else changed and we saw similar results comparing cheap/supplied and more expensive cables.

If the temperature problem is too much for you, I'd suggest buying a better headphone cable which will improve the sound quality and hopefully make the amp usable without adding fans. (I'm happy to recommend Null Audio, they make nice cables.)

In 100ma mode my unit reaches 69 C in one hour or less with no cables attached (with raised 2inch feet). You are saying that if I find the right cable and attach it to the unit, the temperature will cool down? Engineering is a fantastic science, really!

 

[Simon Patten]

In 100ma mode my unit reaches 69 C in one hour or less with no cables attached (with raised 2inch feet). You are saying that if I find the right cable and attach it to the unit, the temperature will cool down? Engineering is a fantastic science, really!

That's certainly not right, it sounds like a hardware problem in your case then as mine stays at 59/60 C with no cable plugged in. Are you able to return it to the dealer you bought it from? You should get it checked out.

 

[D1N0]

Maybe it is just sensor placement or quality instead of the amp getting hotter or not. So people who have an amp that stays well under 69 could have more of a problem than those who get hot quick

 

[SmartCheetah]

What DAC would you recommend to pair with the S17? I'm currently using the EF400 I bought this year, and it sounds great, but I'm itching to try something new.

My headphones - Arya Stealth, HE1000SE, FAD Pandora Hope VI, so all relatively bright.

 

[Marlowe]

What DAC would you recommend to pair with the S17? I'm currently using the EF400 I bought this year, and it sounds great, but I'm itching to try something new.

My headphones - Arya Stealth, HE1000SE, FAD Pandora Hope VI, so all relatively bright.

I've been very happy with the R2R Denafrips 12th-1 with the Arya Stealth and now the HEK Stealth (which I got as an upgrade from from Hifiman in exchange for the Arya plus $705 USD). The Denafrips is slightly warm and (IMO, of course) a reasonably good value for money at roughly $1,000 USD (the price is set in Singapore dollars, so it fluctuates with the exchange rate; I just checked--it's 919 euros ATM).

 

[ngohw]

Agreed, it needs raising by at least 1/2 inch/1.2cm to allow better air flow underneath, but Erick Muller and myself did some testing earlier in the thread and came to the conclusion that the headphone cable makes a big difference too.

That's actually super interesting. I recently got my hands on a Viking Weave XLR cable, super high quality, and my average room temp during these summer months is 22c -- but looking at the temp guage now, it's at 46c only compared to the 52c on my old, cheap 4.4mm cable. I would've never considered that to be due to the cable, but there is a correlation!

 

[ngohw]

What DAC would you recommend to pair with the S17? I'm currently using the EF400 I bought this year, and it sounds great, but I'm itching to try something new.

My headphones - Arya Stealth, HE1000SE, FAD Pandora Hope VI, so all relatively bright.

I have really enjoyed Chord's FPGA DACs (Qutest, Hugo TT) -- if you ever get a chance to try them out, I definitely would recommend it.

 

[MiguelP]

I have really enjoyed Chord's FPGA DACs (Qutest, Hugo TT) -- if you ever get a chance to try them out, I definitely would recommend it.

+1 for Chord (in my case the Mojo 2). Perfect amount of detail and natural, non fatiguing sound - great sinergy. You do hear the difference of the recordings sound quality - there are probably better combinations if one mostly hear poorly recorded music (I tend to listen to all kind of recordings, though).

 

[ngohw]

+1 for Chord (in my case the Mojo 2). Perfect amount of detail and natural, non fatiguing sound - great sinergy. You do hear the difference of the recordings sound quality - there are probably better combinations if one mostly hear poorly recorded music (I tend to listen to all kind of recordings, though).

Adding onto this, I did manage to try the Holo Audio Cyan 2 R2R Ladder DAC amongst other R2R DACs. While it undoubtedly provided a nice warm signature, I did feel as though it sounded muddy and I couldn't separate the mids from the instruments. The Qutest was the only DAC I tried that day that completely blew me away with its resolution and balance in keeping the warm signature we love from the S17 Pro, without making the mids overly forwards and zero sibilance whatsoever in the treble.

Similarly though I listen to a bunch of different music of different recording qualities, so there are probably some genres of music that R2R DACs outperform FPGA DACs on - but not enough for me to care about!