I knew about the heat protection beforehand. During winter it wasn't much of a problem. I've now lifted the unit a bit. We'll see how that goes. Don't want any active cooling solution but if it keeps stepping down to 50ma I may try some sort of heatsink. Hence my question. People who are angry about the heating protection kicking in just didn't do their research.
My amp never goes above 56C on 100 MA, but I do have some pretty big feet under it and it's rested on the top shelf of my rack. My room also doesn't get very hot, but we'll see in the hotter months. I think just making sure there's plenty of space underneath, you'll be fine - but YMMV!
I knew about the heat protection beforehand. During winter it wasn't much of a problem. I've now lifted the unit a bit. We'll see how that goes. Don't want any active cooling solution but if it keeps stepping down to 50ma I may try some sort of heatsink.
As for active cooling, it's honestly why I skipped the Burson amps. I came very close to getting the Soloist Voyager, was certainly within my price point, and was even a click away from purchasing it, but in the end, I couldn't get past the fact it required a built-in fan for active cooling. Yeah, I'm keenly familiar with the fan company used (Noctua), as I've used their fans in my custom PC builds, so I know they're fairly quiet, but still....
Anyway, my headphone amp is Class A, but requires no active cooling, and surprisingly, doesn't get so hot to be of any issue.
I don't know much about the Bokeh, but I suspect that's not a good pairing for ZMFs in general. Right now I'm using the S17 with the R2R Denafrips Ares 12th-1 and it does no favors for the ZMF Aeolus, which sounds overly warm and muddy. (The Aeolus sounded much better on my previous setup of Liquid Platinum and Topping D90 MQA (OG AKM 4499 version.) OTOH, it's a terrific pairing with the Hifiman HEK Stealth, adding some welcome warmth to a headphone some find too bright.
TBH, I may be a bit biased since I think the upper tier Hifiman egg shaped headphones just beat the Aeolus all to hell in almost every way. Although the Aeolus did sound quite a bit better with the LP/Topping, the Arya Stealth sounded better in every way except bass quantity. (I never heard the similar but technically better HEK Stealth on the LP/Topping.) The Arya Stealth is just technically far superior to the Aeolus, at roughly 60% of the price ATM. I like premium wood, leather, and aluminum on my headphones about as much as the next guy. But not that much.
Well today we reach about 34, 35 degrees in my city, tho I can still listen to the S17 in 100ma mode, high gain for about two or so hours, after that I have to turn on my usb fans to avoid the amp going back to 50ma mode, and the amp in the morning, left on 50ma mode, at low gain it's about 55 degrees and we're just entering spring, let's see how it goes then.
Still, I only have to leave the usb fan on for about 15 min at low rpm to bring it down to the mid 50s.
Aune should just leave as it is except drill some little holes on left and right side because those on a back are just not enough... and that will solve most of problems with overheating ...it is a class A and it should have some small current of air but fans are not needed. So this amp just need what usually amps in class A have - holes .
Aune should just leave as it is except drill some little holes on left and right side because those on a back are just not enough... and that will solve most of problems with overheating ...it is a class A and it should have some small current of air but fans are not needed. So this amp just need what usually amps in class A have - holes .
Yep, the unit might as well be an entirely closed coffin. I think if there's ever a second version of this amp, Aune it's definitively going to tackle first the heat management issues.
It depends, I'm afraid people have complain so much about this feature regarding the 50ma and 100ma mode and the temp reading that aune might just decide to get rid of the feature all together and called it a day. If they get rid of this feature, there's no point in having a temp reading on the amp
Haven't test it tbh, so I cannot say for sure. In theory the only thing that might change it's the gain on the amp given that RCA/SE inputs generally speaking only work at around 2v and XLR at 4v, but that's about it. If you're wavetheory he might tell you that there's a SQ hit, but who knows?
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
.
