The bottom gets super hot too. and I thought the power supply was on the left side of the unit?, when I refer to the right side I'm talking when you're looking at the front of the unit, where the screen is, the side that the volume knob is on, that side gets super hot for me at least.The power supply is on the right
I only reached 65°C the day it arrived, before I learned it's a good idea to elevate it and not stack it with another large device like the EF400. Regardless, at that temperature, it was too hot for me to comfortably touch it, especially the bottom.
Aune S17 pro
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AntonNZ
New Head-Fier
Check my post earlier. This is the place where internal heatsink connected to the chassis/body. The entire bottom plate serves for heat dissipation
Thanks for these questions.
I was thinking of ways to slow down the inevitable temperature increase and keep the temperature below 70C while doing these modifications, which was my main objective in replacing the thermal pads with thermal putty, and once I found out the temperature sensor was not soldered on and can be mounted pretty much anywhere (or not mounted at all) with the only limitation being the length of the cable, that gave me the idea of placing it father away from the heat source while mounting it on a different location on the same heatsink. In retrospect, the heatsink will eventually reach its peak hot temperature spread across the entire surface area once the amp is running long enough, so having the sensor mounted on the same heatsink, but at a different location, may not have been a good idea. A better idea may have been to mount the temperature sensor at an entirely difference place on a component that's not producing any heat and have it record ambient internal temperatures only. I will consider changing its location again next time I will need to open up my unit.
I understand these modifications somewhat counteract Aune's intended design for temperature regulation, and this has the potential of making the components hotter than 70C before throttling back to 50 mA, but I believe this 70C limit was arbitrarily set by Aune for safety concerns and to avoid customer sentiments about the unit being too hot to touch. I could be wrong, but I am willing to take the chance with these modifications. So far my unit is operating 100% without active cooling, and it hasn't throttled down to 50 mA yet.
In regards to your second question, there isn't much clearance to add a thermal pad in between the bottom heatsink and case, as you can see below. The board (with heatsinks attached) will need to slide into the case as well, so adding a thermal pad would be difficult. Consider the amount of thermal pad coverage needed for the large surface area below -- it could be costly.
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SmartCheetah
100+ Head-Fier
I'd be careful. While the headroom is surely large, there's a chance this will cause increased wear of internal components and reduce the device's reliability in the long term. It won't be immediate, but the long-term effects are unknown. In principle, I'm against "correcting after engineers" when it comes to safety or protection, unless you absolutely know what you're doing and what to expect.
SmartCheetah
100+ Head-Fier
Just got an email from Aune Wuhan:
There are some concerns I have about this mod:Thanks for these questions.
I was thinking of ways to slow down the inevitable temperature increase and keep the temperature below 70C while doing these modifications, which was my main objective in replacing the thermal pads with thermal putty, and once I found out the temperature sensor was not soldered on and can be mounted pretty much anywhere (or not mounted at all) with the only limitation being the length of the cable, that gave me the idea of placing it father away from the heat source while mounting it on a different location on the same heatsink. In retrospect, the heatsink will eventually reach its peak hot temperature spread across the entire surface area once the amp is running long enough, so having the sensor mounted on the same heatsink, but at a different location, may not have been a good idea. A better idea may have been to mount the temperature sensor at an entirely difference place on a component that's not producing any heat and have it record ambient internal temperatures only. I will consider changing its location again next time I will need to open up my unit.
I understand these modifications somewhat counteract Aune's intended design for temperature regulation, and this has the potential of making the components hotter than 70C before throttling back to 50 mA, but I believe this 70C limit was arbitrarily set by Aune for safety concerns and to avoid customer sentiments about the unit being too hot to touch. I could be wrong, but I am willing to take the chance with these modifications. So far my unit is operating 100% without active cooling, and it hasn't throttled down to 50 mA yet.
In regards to your second question, there isn't much clearance to add a thermal pad in between the bottom heatsink and case, as you can see below. The board (with heatsinks attached) will need to slide into the case as well, so adding a thermal pad would be difficult. Consider the amount of thermal pad coverage needed for the large surface area below -- it could be costly.
You've put the sensor back in a different position, so you're not measuring the temperature as before.
Too much of that putty may mean you're not transferring heat as well into the heatsink as those pads, as the heat will go out in all directions from the transistors, instead of just through to the heatsink, so you could be worse off than before. That's something that will only be determined if your unit keeps working or fails early due to the transistors overheating.
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Thanks for the well documented disassembly.
I have been wondering if there are thermal pads or compound used between the heat-sinks and if the bottom heat-sink make contact with the housing. I have been considering open up mine unit to add thermal pads or compound. Now, knowing that there are thermal pads used is good enough for me. You just save me the unneeded time and effort.
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The temperature sensor of the S17 Pro is fixed on the heat sink of the transistor, so it measures the temperature of the output transistor. The screen displays the real-time temperature of the hottest core component.
The picture below shows the temperatures of the chassis when the S17 Pro displays 60 ℃.
Actually, some home routers' internal core components can reach 70 ℃ too. We set the jump to 50mA at 69 ℃ that keeps the temperature of the core components below 69 ℃. In fact, it is safe for the core output transistors to operate below 80 ℃.
However, if you encounter any abnormal situation or excessively high temperatures, it may be a defectiveness issue. Please contact your distributor, and we will ensure your satisfaction
The picture below shows the temperatures of the chassis when the S17 Pro displays 60 ℃.
Actually, some home routers' internal core components can reach 70 ℃ too. We set the jump to 50mA at 69 ℃ that keeps the temperature of the core components below 69 ℃. In fact, it is safe for the core output transistors to operate below 80 ℃.
However, if you encounter any abnormal situation or excessively high temperatures, it may be a defectiveness issue. Please contact your distributor, and we will ensure your satisfaction
Dude, did you put thermal paste on relays at the PCBs bottom side?????!!!! Relays should not have any contact with heatsink!!
AntonNZ
New Head-Fier
Almost side question to our community: I'm planning to buy th s17 pro and new headphones. Currently I'm using sen hd6xx and thinking either about hifiman ananda Nano or focal celestee. First seems to have a better sound overall second is closed back which is a big bonus as well. I cannot try any of them and will be buying blindly.
Which will have a better synergy with amp and dac (bifrost uber akm4490)? And what else can you advise in this price range?
The music genres I'm listening are rock, industrial, pop, alternative, indie
Which will have a better synergy with amp and dac (bifrost uber akm4490)? And what else can you advise in this price range?
The music genres I'm listening are rock, industrial, pop, alternative, indie
Simon Patten
100+ Head-Fier
I don't know the Celestee but I recently upgraded from Hifiman's Edition XS to HE1000 Stealth, with an S17 of course, and both sound wonderful with it. Hifiman have a brighter sound so that could be a consideration but it sounds as if open vs closed back is your main choice - Hifiman do let in and out a lot of sound so they're mainly for using on your own and not with someone beside you who don't want to hear it.
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Dimitry188
100+ Head-Fier
From the closed headphones, look at the Dan Clark Ether С Flow.
They have a great sound and they go perfectly with the Aune S17 Pro.
I have a few focal headphones and the synergy with my current system, including the S17 goes from great, to meh to oh no!!!!, my elegia's sound great on this amp, the radiance sound okay, sometimes it can be too much of a good thing, specially on 100ma and with my clears, I really don't know what the problem is with this amp and those cans but you have to be careful, I think it's driving them to hard and they're clipping. From what other people have been saying, Hifiman's work great with this amp.
Also high impedance cans are excellent for this amp, currently listening to my DT880s and they sound freaking great, the SENN 600s series are also excellent with this amp.
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SmartCheetah
100+ Head-Fier
No idea about the Celestee, but I bought the Nano yday and I'm comparing it to the Edition XS as we speak. Nano is a tad brighter, much more resolving, much snappier and transparent. It pairs well with the S17 Pro, which is warm(ish), lush and powerful.
Speaking about the headphones, does anyone have experience with both the Nano and the Arya Stealth? The Nano is an upgrade over Edition XS, but I'm not so sure about the soundstage, which is super important for me. It doesn't feel like the Nano is more spacey or airier. It's more precise and technical in its soundstage but doesn't expands as much. How about the Arya Stealth?
Also, what's the tonality? Is it closer to "darkish neutrality" of the Edition XS, or the resolving ability of the Nano?
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Slackaveli
Headphoneus Supremus
Ananda Nano sounds amazing and is a great place to get into Hifiman.
