AUDIOSENSE in-ear monitors Impressions Thread
Aug 27, 2019 at 8:53 AM Post #1,681 of 5,890
More impressions. Xelento. Half alive. DT 1990 pro. Half alive. Oriveti New Primacy. Dead. Fearless S8F close battle but I like T800 a bit more. CA Andromeda, very very very very close battle, some places the Andro win, some places the T800 win but the Andro, the treble ehhh its great but something annoys me and sounds a bit wonky while T800 I love. So very close battle. CTM Da Vinci X. Very very serious. The X does a amazing lot very amazingly well. Techinically it is better than the T800. Yes. Mids are beautifully smooth and crystal clear, it has treble to die for and the lows are very tight and punchy. Soundstage, instrument sepration and detail retrieval is very very very eye opening, amazing. But the T800. There is something about it that make all other earphones sound a bit lifeless, a bit boring and it makes me want more and more. No matter how good the other iem is, the T800 has this magic that as soon as I put them in my ears, I do not want to take them back out. So the Davinci X is better technically but the T800 overall is still very close and the addiction it gives to my ears is on a level much higher than all the iems I have heard so far. So yeah an iem might have better this or that but you'd have to spend much higher to get it. Much much higher and honestly it's not that much of a difference. For 300 USD the T800 are a bloody amazing steal. Can't go wrong. The S8F, Andros and Da Vinci X are also bloody amazing iems and all have their pros and cons. But the T800 are the ones I'd choose hands down. If I could choose one out of all of them if I had the option to get one for free, T800 hands. Or the Da Vinci X, sell it. Get the money and get a T800 and Andro haha. But maybe I'd go for the S8F rather than Andro. Idk about the treble on the Andro, just feels a bit off. Maybe the new version is better.
dude you are crazy haha
remember when you asked me some questions for the T800?
i am glad that you like them so much
very good thing that the stock filters are removable, if something happen to them you can just change them, no need to panic like someone was saying before that if something happen you are done with them
for the live performance qualities about T800 i agree, but that is a intense sound not for everyone though
 
Aug 27, 2019 at 9:59 AM Post #1,682 of 5,890
very good thing that the stock filters are removable, if something happen to them you can just change them, no need to panic like someone was saying before that if something happen you are done with them

Yeah, that was my bad. I thought the stock damper wasn’t removable. Turns out I just had to pull with a lot of force, as it was really stuck in there tightly.

I still recommend the use of a stainless nozzle mesh though. It will prevent the dampers from falling out, and will prevent dirt and debris from falling in (maximizing the life of the dampers). $0.10 is cheap insurance for a $300 IEM.
 
Aug 27, 2019 at 10:04 AM Post #1,683 of 5,890
Yeah, that was my bad. I thought the stock damper wasn’t removable. Turns out I just had to pull with a lot of force, as it was really stuck in there tightly.

I still recommend the use of a stainless nozzle mesh though. It will prevent the dampers from falling out, and will prevent dirt and debris from falling in (maximizing the life of the dampers). $0.10 is cheap insurance for a $300 IEM.
yeah no worries bro, i was thinking that they are not removable too
 
Aug 27, 2019 at 10:37 AM Post #1,684 of 5,890
Yeah, that was my bad. I thought the stock damper wasn’t removable. Turns out I just had to pull with a lot of force, as it was really stuck in there tightly.

I still recommend the use of a stainless nozzle mesh though. It will prevent the dampers from falling out, and will prevent dirt and debris from falling in (maximizing the life of the dampers). $0.10 is cheap insurance for a $300 IEM.

Hey no worries, I thought the dampers were stuck on too. Just curious tho, if we'd installed the stainless nozzle mesh on and want to swap the dampers out, how do we go about removing the nozzle mesh? Any advice on the quickest ways to remove it without destroying the mesh? Thanks! :ksc75smile:
 
Aug 27, 2019 at 10:53 AM Post #1,685 of 5,890
Hey no worries, I thought the dampers were stuck on too. Just curious tho, if we'd installed the stainless nozzle mesh on and want to swap the dampers out, how do we go about removing the nozzle mesh? Any advice on the quickest ways to remove it without destroying the mesh? Thanks! :ksc75smile:

I remove and reinstall those types of stainless mesh all of the time. Out of probably 200 pairs, I’ve never messed one up yet.

They have an adhesive ring around the circumference of the mesh. This makes it reusable an almost infinite number of times.

What I do is carefully lift the edge of the nozzle mesh up using the point of a sewing needle. I’ve also used the point of a syringe needle. Once you lift the edge up, you can grab the mesh with tweezers. I then store them on a piece of waxed baking paper. This keeps the adhesive intact, fresh, and free or dirt and finger oils. They can be stored like this indefinitely until they’re needed again, which might be 5 minutes or 5 months.

The trick with the nozzle mesh is to not bend it so much that it folds. Because then it will get a permanent crease in it, and be ruined. It must stay flat. This is why lifting it from the very edge using a very sharp sewing needle is the key. As I’ve said, I’ve never permanently damaged a single one using this method.

The only times I’ve damaged the screens is when an IEM has a screen that’s been glued on from the manufacturer. The only way they can be removed is destructively, so this is expected and unavoidable.

However, 95% of the nozzle mesh installed on IEMs, including 100% of the replacement ones I’ve lined to many times, use the reusable sticky adhesive around the perimeter.
 
Aug 27, 2019 at 11:04 AM Post #1,686 of 5,890
I remove and reinstall those types of stainless mesh all of the time. Out of probably 200 pairs, I’ve never messed one up yet.

They have an adhesive ring around the circumference of the mesh. This makes it reusable an almost infinite number of times.

What I do is carefully lift the edge of the nozzle mesh up using the point of a sewing needle. I’ve also used the point of a syringe needle. Once you lift the edge up, you can grab the mesh with tweezers. I then store them on a piece of waxed baking paper. This keeps the adhesive intact, fresh, and free or dirt and finger oils. They can be stored like this indefinitely until they’re needed again, which might be 5 minutes or 5 months.

The trick with the nozzle mesh is to not bend it so much that it folds. Because then it will get a permanent crease in it, and be ruined. It must stay flat. This is why lifting it from the very edge using a very sharp sewing needle is the key. As I’ve said, I’ve never permanently damaged a single one using this method.

The only times I’ve damaged the screens is when an IEM has a screen that’s been glued on from the manufacturer. The only way they can be removed is destructively, so this is expected and unavoidable.

However, 95% of the nozzle mesh installed on IEMs, including 100% of the replacement ones I’ve lined to many times, use the reusable sticky adhesive around the perimeter.
Thanks man! Will get to installing the mesh tonight!
 
Aug 27, 2019 at 12:30 PM Post #1,688 of 5,890
Thanks man! Will get to installing the mesh tonight!

Remember, to install the mesh, carefully put it in place on the nozzle with tweezers, and then use something to gently push on the circumference to get the adhesive to stick. You can use a soda straw, a pen refill, a cotton swab with the cotton cut off, the head of a nail, the head of a flathead screw, etc.

Don’t push on the very center of the nozzle mesh, or you risk collapsing it. Think of it like the lid of a bucket or the lid of a plastic good storage container. You attach a lid by pushing around the outside circumference, not pushing in the very center.
 
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Aug 27, 2019 at 12:32 PM Post #1,689 of 5,890
So I took out the stock white dampers and inserted the green dampers and OMG, it's like rediscovering this pair of IEMs all over again.
I felt that the instrument separation was taken to a whole new level, as did the soundstage. Highs were noticeably less harsh and I was able to listen to them comfortably on high gain.

On a separate note, I installed the stainless steel nozzle mesh that @Slater recommended. It was pretty easy to do actually...just needed about 10mins, a ball-point pen ink tube, a pair of tweezers and you're set.
Think I did a pretty decent job if I do say so myself.

00100lPORTRAIT_00100_BURST20190828000052162_COVER.jpg 00100lPORTRAIT_00100_BURST20190827235356227_COVER.jpg
 
Aug 27, 2019 at 12:33 PM Post #1,690 of 5,890
Remember, to install the mesh, carefully put it in place on the nozzle with tweezers, and then use something to gently push on the circumference to get the adhesive to stick. You can use a soda straw, a pen refill, a cotton swab with the cotton cut off, the head of a nail, the head of a flathead screw, etc.

Don’t push on the very center of the nozzle mesh, or you risk collapsing it. Think of it like the lid of a bucket or the lid of a plastic good storage container. You attach a lid by pushing around the outside circumference, not pushing in the very center.
Hahaha thanks mate, I already did it :)
 
Aug 27, 2019 at 12:35 PM Post #1,691 of 5,890
So I took out the stock white dampers and inserted the green dampers and OMG, it's like rediscovering this pair of IEMs all over again.
I felt that the instrument separation was taken to a whole new level, as did the soundstage. Highs were noticeably less harsh and I was able to listen to them comfortably on high gain.

On a separate note, I installed the stainless steel nozzle mesh that @Slater recommended. It was pretty easy to do actually...just needed about 10mins, a ball-point pen ink tube, a pair of tweezers and you're set.
Think I did a pretty decent job if I do say so myself.


Nice job, friend! The stainless mesh looks perfect :)

I too removed the stock damper, and I settled on the brown damper. Although I really liked the green damper as well. It was hard to choose between them, but in the end I liked the brown just a tiny bit more. I’m in my 40s, so I need that little extra boost of treble energy to help offset age-related losses.
 
Aug 27, 2019 at 12:35 PM Post #1,692 of 5,890
Just recieve the t800 thru aliexpress, and was wondering if my free copper cable is defective as I can't insert the right side iem. I tried it with the stock silver cable and my other fiio cable and they work fine. My question is if I can ask them a replacement for the copper cable or not since its only a freebie?

Also the medium sized silicon tips I got has a cut near the nozzle.

Any thoughts on these issues? Thanks!
 
Aug 27, 2019 at 12:37 PM Post #1,693 of 5,890
Just recieve the t800 thru aliexpress, and was wondering if my free copper cable is defective as I can't insert the right side iem. I tried it with the stock silver cable and my other fiio cable and they work fine. My question is if I can ask them a replacement for the copper cable or not since its only a freebie?

Also the medium sized silicon tips I got has a cut near the nozzle.

Any thoughts on these issues? Thanks!

Just contact the seller. They’re very responsive to helping address problems, and they have excellent customer service. I know they’ll get you all squared away.
 
Aug 27, 2019 at 12:58 PM Post #1,694 of 5,890
Just contact the seller. They’re very responsive to helping address problems, and they have excellent customer service. I know they’ll get you all squared away.
Thanks. I'll try that.

Also, I tried to use the cable that comes with the fiio FH5 and FA7, and they helped in lessening the treble brightness compared with the stock silver cable, but with the fiio cable I noticed a tiny bit of mid bass bleed, sort of a bit muddiness in the mids. Is this the same effect that the supposed free copper cable does? Thanks!
 
Aug 27, 2019 at 1:21 PM Post #1,695 of 5,890
Remember, to install the mesh, carefully put it in place on the nozzle with tweezers, and then use something to gently push on the circumference to get the adhesive to stick. You can use a soda straw, a pen refill, a cotton swab with the cotton cut off, the head of a nail, the head of a flathead screw, etc.

Don’t push on the very center of the nozzle mesh, or you risk collapsing it. Think of it like the lid of a bucket or the lid of a plastic good storage container. You attach a lid by pushing around the outside circumference, not pushing in the very center.
Do you have link for the mesh?
 

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