[mourip]

  OK, but if you could only pick one, LiveClock with your external LPS (no Mutec in the chain), or Mutec (no LiveClock in the chain), which one?

 
I would say that the biggest jump was adding the Mutec USB as a reclocker....but the other changes were definitely worthwhile.

 

[astrostar59]

 

   
Used with Dante Virtual Soundcard it is an ethernet to SPDIF converter. I use the AES output as recommended by my DAC maker, Schitt.
 
Lots of testimonials in this thread. I had a pretty good USB chain using the Mutec USB and a Regen with LPS etc.. the Rednet has a much more analog and refined sound. Much more involving and convincing.

 
Hmm... does that mean that I can't use this with a MacBook or an iMac directly into its Ethernet port?
 
Does it require a special sound card to work, or is it this app that you're what you're talking about?

QCorrect. But that app is cheap, or free with a new Rednet. I use a Mac Mini and it sounds great. Word of caution though, due to the AES or SPDIF output on the Rednet you can go to 192K sample rate max. Doesn't bother me as I run an NOS DAC, but if you are into HQPlayer or DSD you need to stay on USB.

 

[Hifi Boy]

@Golfnutz
@astrostar59
 
Thanks guys, good to know I can use it with my MacBook Pro, I'm currently using Audirvana Plus and upsampling all to exactly 192KHz, so it doesn't bother me in the slightest. Oh, and I'm also converting my DSD to PCM. Yeah, I think that way it sounds better, please don't shoot me for saying that!
 
@mourip
Well, I don't yet have Rednet or Cybershaft, but I can vouch for the Mutec-3+USB. The difference from going MacBook to Fostex DAC, to going Macbook to Mutec to Fostex DAC via Toslink, was substantial. Sound became more holographic and the soundstage expanded a lot.
 
For the price, highly recommended!

 

[yates7592]

Dumb question here, but I'm going to ask it anyway....
When using an external clock such as Grimm CC1 with Rednet D16, does clock go before or after the D16 in the chain? I'd be going:
PC > ethernet cable > D16/clock (or clock/D16) > AES > DAC
Clock would also be in/out via DARS (XLR AES). I think this is possible right?

 

[Hifi Boy]

Its D16 then clock, since the clock has no Ethernet port.

 

[jabbr]

Dumb question here, but I'm going to ask it anyway....
When using an external clock such as Grimm CC1 with Rednet D16, does clock go before or after the D16 in the chain? I'd be going:
PC > ethernet cable > D16/clock (or clock/D16) > AES > DAC
Clock would also be in/out via DARS (XLR AES). I think this is possible right?

The clock isn't part of the audio chain. The external clock supports the D16.
So it is

PC-->ethernet-->D16-->AES-->DAC
________________^
________________|
________________|
________________Clock

 

[yates7592]

The clock isn't part of the audio chain. The external clock supports the D16.
So it is

PC-->ethernet-->D16-->AES-->DAC
________________^
________________|
________________|
________________Clock

Ah! Thanks, so I have my audio chain as above but the external clock is simply another input into the D16. So I have 2 cables into D16 (ethernet and aes xlr DARS clock cable) and then another AES xlr cable out to DAC? That makes sense.

 

[mourip]

So after watching others go boldly I decided to mod my D16 to use an external LPS. I did not do an entirely unreversible mod. Instead I drilled the back panel for a DC jack, and removed the SMPS but used a multi-pin connector so I could always switch back if necessary.
 
I used pin 1 for the +5v and pin 3 for ground. I also tied ground to the existing chassis ground. I also added a high quality electrolytic 680mf@25v bypass cap at the inlet. I used the 5v output from my HDPlex LPS to power.
 
No smoke and a very, very nice improvement for the D16 in my HP rig. Increased clarity and sweetness. I will definitely do the same for the D16 in my speaker rig next.
 
Thanks to those who posted their findings here!

 

[Golfnutz]

  So after watching others go boldly I decided to mod my D16 to use an external LPS. I did not do an entirely unreversible mod. Instead I drilled the back panel for a DC jack, and removed the SMPS but used a multi-pin connector so I could always switch back if necessary.
 
I used pin 1 for the +5v and pin 3 for ground. I also tied ground to the existing chassis ground. I also added a high quality electrolytic 680mf@25v bypass cap at the inlet. I used the 5v output from my HDPlex LPS to power.
 
No smoke and a very, very nice improvement for the D16 in my HP rig. Increased clarity and sweetness. I will definitely do the same for the D16 in my speaker rig next.
 
Thanks to those who posted their findings here!

Nice! Pics please.

 

[mourip]

 
Nice! Pics please.

I did my second D16 in my speaker rig this morning. 
 
Pin 1 to 5v+ and pin 3 to ground. Terminal strip made soldering and wiring easier.

 
I bought the multi-pin adapter and pins from a link here. Assembling it was the only hard part of the entire mod.

 
Unobtrusive DC jack. My warranty is gone over but if sold I could still offer a buyer a switchable choice of either LPS or stock SMPS.
 
Tip: when you drill out the chassis turn it upside down so metal filings do not find their way to the circuit board. I learned this the hard way when I drilled out my PC chassis to accommodate an external 5v LPS. A piece of metal dropped onto my USB card and I failed the smoke test. Luckily only the USB card ate it...
 

 
Ground wire soldered to existing IEC ground terminal which is tied to chassis.
Stock SMPS removed to make more room. D16 power switch is no longer working but I leave it on 24/7 anyway and the HDPlex LPS has a switch, fuse, and over current protection.
 

 

[somestranger26]

Thanks for the pictures. That actually looks pretty simple to do.
 
Could you explain what the bypass cap is for? I don't know much about electronics.
 
Also, was the threading for the terminal strip one that was already being used by the SMPS or did you have to drill a new hole for that?

 

[mourip]

  Thanks for the pictures. That actually looks pretty simple to do.
 
Could you explain what the bypass cap is for? I don't know much about electronics.
 
Also, was the threading for the terminal strip one that was already being used by the SMPS or did you have to drill a new hole for that?

 
The bypass cap is basically a local reservoir for transient needs considering the long umbilical. Possibly not necessary but one of my audio habits. Probably more important with outboard supplies for analogue equipment.
 
I used the screw and standoff from the SMPS which I had removed. Convenient.

 

[Golfnutz]

Thanks for the pictures Mourip.
 
I had some fun today changing the connector on my D16.
 
To ensure better safety I decided to install a female connector in the D16. I also connected the Common wire '-' to earth ground on the D16 (done in case I went with 2-pin connector, I would have '-' connected to chassis). The connector is physically too big for the D16 opening (1/16"), no problem, just mount it from the inside of the D16 (connection is very solid - not any different if it would have fit).

With this connector it would be pretty hard to find something that plugs into this end and the wall at the same time. No chance of blowing up the D16.

 
Close up of connector inside D16.

 
Full view of mod

 
Made a 2-pin cable (just didn't solder the earth ground wire to the 2-pin connector), and 3-pin cable to connect from LPS to D16.

 
Wanted to hear what it sounded like without earth ground (I couldn't tell the difference).

 
LPS plugged into D16

 
If anyone is interested in this mod, send me a PM and I'll do what I can to help (D16/Rednet 3 is fully reversible). I have plenty of JST XH connectors and pins to replace the stock wire harness that connects to the main board.
 
Also, it probably wouldn't matter what type of connection your LPS has (as long as you have an extra cable or get an extra cable to connect from your LPS to the Rednet). Using one of these manual connectors simplifies the cable. Just cut the end of that would go into the Rednet and attach it.

 
 
 

 

[Iving]

In deference to LPS pioneers hereabouts ...
Having eavesdropped on John Swenson here: https://www.computeraudiophile.com/forums/topic/29662-discussion-of-ac-mains-isolation-transformers-started-wposts-moved-from-quotlps-1-troubleshootingquot-thread/, and intending to procure a 5000VA isolation transformer (with very low capacitance of course), I ended up with a 500VA one (owing to a mistake on the part of the Seller) and wondering what to do with it.
Dedicated to my PC only, the effect was massive - notably increased transparency with pinpoint imaging.
Powering all the digital components of my chain up to the DAC - including the PC and - naturally - my D16 AES, there may have been a very small sacrifice of detail compared with supplying the PC only - but the effect on tone was on the scale of overhaul. No digital nastiness - just deep producer's cut.
I've spent the last couple of hours rediscovering many favourite tracks.
The incentive to fit LPSs anywhere in my system has been subtracted from me because (i) the music is so satisfying now and (ii) I imagine I have substantially closed the incremental SQ gap that otherwise would have been achieved by doing so.
Whilst an ATX LPS for the PC wouldn't involve too much trouble (although it might compromise aesthetics wrt to my coffee table brushed aluminium case), should I butcher my D16 AES now?
What about my (nearly) £3k SMPS-saddled DAC?
The isolation transformer powers the italicised section:
Silent PC comprising AURUM Xilenser 500W PSU; Asus Z170-WS mobo with dual Intel Gigabit LAN (I219-LM preferred over I210-AT); Intel i7-6700 3.4 GHz CPU; NOFAN CR-80EH Copper IcePipe CPU Cooler; 16Gb Corsair Dominator Platinum DDR4 2400MHz RAM (CAS 10-12-12-28); Windows 10 Pro on Samsung SM951 128Gb M.2 SSD; *.flac on Samsung 850 EVO 1Tb SSD | Blue Jeans Cat 6 ethernet cable (40') | Focusrite RedNet D16 AES | van den Hul AES-EBU 110 Ohm Professional cable (0.8m) | Dangerous Convert-2 DAC (Word Clock Out to Focusrite RedNet D16 AES via Pro Co Premium Canare cable c. 3') | Bespoke Achtung Audio Silver XLR/RCA "Pin 3 Floating" interconnects (1.2m) | Linn AV 5103 System Controller (= pre-amp) | Linn Silver interconnects (1.2m) | 2 x stereo Quad 909 power amps with identical DADA revisions | vertically bi-amping via Linn LK400 speaker cable (c. 3m) | (restored and refurbished) Snell Type A III.

 

[mourip]

 
In deference to LPS pioneers hereabouts ...
Having eavesdropped on John Swenson here: https://www.computeraudiophile.com/forums/topic/29662-discussion-of-ac-mains-isolation-transformers-started-wposts-moved-from-quotlps-1-troubleshootingquot-thread/, and intending to procure a 5000VA isolation transformer (with very low capacitance of course), I ended up with a 500VA one (owing to a mistake on the part of the Seller) and wondering what to do with it.
Dedicated to my PC only, the effect was massive - notably increased transparency with pinpoint imaging.
Powering all the digital components of my chain up to the DAC - including the PC and - naturally - my D16 AES, there may have been a very small sacrifice of detail compared with supplying the PC only - but the effect on tone was on the scale of overhaul. No digital nastiness - just deep producer's cut.
I've spent the last couple of hours rediscovering many favourite tracks.
The incentive to fit LPSs anywhere in my system has been subtracted from me because (i) the music is so satisfying now and (ii) I imagine I have substantially closed the incremental SQ gap that otherwise would have been achieved by doing so.
Whilst an ATX LPS for the PC wouldn't involve too much trouble (although it might compromise aesthetics wrt to my coffee table brushed aluminium case), should I butcher my D16 AES now?
What about my (nearly) £3k SMPS-saddled DAC?
The isolation transformer powers the italicised section:
Silent PC comprising AURUM Xilenser 500W PSU; Asus Z170-WS mobo with dual Intel Gigabit LAN (I219-LM preferred over I210-AT); Intel i7-6700 3.4 GHz CPU; NOFAN CR-80EH Copper IcePipe CPU Cooler; 16Gb Corsair Dominator Platinum DDR4 2400MHz RAM (CAS 10-12-12-28); Windows 10 Pro on Samsung SM951 128Gb M.2 SSD; *.flac on Samsung 850 EVO 1Tb SSD | Blue Jeans Cat 6 ethernet cable (40') | Focusrite RedNet D16 AES | van den Hul AES-EBU 110 Ohm Professional cable (0.8m) | Dangerous Convert-2 DAC (Word Clock Out to Focusrite RedNet D16 AES via Pro Co Premium Canare cable c. 3') | Bespoke Achtung Audio Silver XLR/RCA "Pin 3 Floating" interconnects (1.2m) | Linn AV 5103 System Controller (= pre-amp) | Linn Silver interconnects (1.2m) | 2 x stereo Quad 909 power amps with identical DADA revisions | vertically bi-amping via Linn LK400 speaker cable (c. 3m) | (restored and refurbished) Snell Type A III.

 
Based on that same thread I bought a used isolation transformer off of EBAY. It is a low capacitance 1000VA unit. My experience is the same as yours. At first I was just putting my DAC, preamp and D16 on it to good effect. Today I moved my power amp over to it as it is only 10 watts output, plenty for my 99db speakers. The benefit was immediately obvious. Better clarity, dynamics and imaging. Mine came with unterminated end and jumpered as step down so note that if you buy one from EBAY you might be into a bit of DIY with line voltage.
 
I have actually used smaller isolation(1:1) transformers for years but I feel that the big benefit was getting with enough current capacity (and with low capacitance) to move most of my gear onto it.
 
Big bang for the buck!