Audio Grade Fuses
Nov 22, 2022 at 4:58 AM Post #556 of 811
Depending upon your budget of course, I'd start with the power amp then move to the dac and ddc last.

Why?
Because the power draw from the amp is the most dynamic while the digital devices use a more consistent amount of ac power.

These 'tweako' fuses tend to 'favor' the changing demands for power (the amp) over the more steady supply of current that the digital devices present to the fuse.

But if you want to shotgun them all at the same time, the break-in time, overall, will be less since they will all be settling in at the same time.

JJ
 
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Nov 22, 2022 at 4:20 PM Post #557 of 811
As a fuse newbie, wondering which part of my chain would benefit most from fuse replacement: DAC, DDC, OTL amp, or should I consider upgrading fuses on all of them? Thanks!

Whatever costs the most money. :bulb:
 
Nov 22, 2022 at 4:30 PM Post #558 of 811
I'd say they are at least 30% different from each other. I can't quantify it as an absolute percentage.
Wow that's a pretty big difference.

I understand it's difficult to qualify it as a number though.

Just wanted to get an idea of how much of a difference it'd be.
 
Nov 22, 2022 at 5:11 PM Post #560 of 811
I replaced my stock fuses in my dac and headphone amp with SR purple around 24 hours ago.

Detail is increased noticeably- but they are way to smooth and warm and rich sounding. Honestly- sounds veiled compared to stock fuses. They lack the punch of the $1 stock fuses. I tried both directions and chose the more detailed less veiled direction; but still way to smooth. I lost my dynamic punch.......

Will this veil lift with burn-in? I'm skeptical it will change by much.

I do agree that this fuse really changes the sound- but IMHO not for the good. If I could keep the detail without the veil- I would be happier.

Any advice would be appreciated.
 
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Nov 22, 2022 at 5:13 PM Post #561 of 811
I replaced my stock fuses in my dac and headphone amp with SR purple around 24 hours ago.

Detail is increased noticeably- but they are way to smooth and warm. Honestly- sounds veiled compared to stock fuses. They lack the punch of the $1 stock fuses. I tried both directions and chose the more detailed less veiled direction; but still way to smooth. I lost my dynamic punch.......

Will this veil lift with burn-in? I'm skeptical it will change by much.

I do agree that this fuse really changes the sound- but IMHO not for the good. If I could keep the detail without the veil- I would be happier.

Any advice would be appreciated.
The advice is to let it play for 200+ hours. Then compare.
 
Nov 22, 2022 at 5:17 PM Post #563 of 811
For sure. But even the manufacturer claims burn in does not have a huge effect. Has anyone else experienced this overly rich sound from SR Purple? It sounds like tubes that went a bit to far... Very non solid state.
The sound will change.
 
Nov 22, 2022 at 5:20 PM Post #565 of 811
Again has anyone measured the electrical characteristics... RE: latest discussion... Before and after burn in?
Can you guide us, what exactly and how should we measure?
 
Nov 22, 2022 at 5:36 PM Post #566 of 811
Can you guide us, what exactly and how should we measure?
Well i would probably start with basic measurements... Micro-Ohm, Micro-L, etc...

But for audio quality the best approach would probably be to take a scope on the input and on the ouput of the fuse and see if there is a difference in the waveforms. If we are talking 1-2% you are not going to see a difference. But 30%? Sure...! Essentially measure the frequency response under load of the system with and without the fuse. (Solid copper as replacement).
 
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Nov 22, 2022 at 7:13 PM Post #567 of 811
For sure. But even the manufacturer claims burn in does not have a huge effect. Has anyone else experienced this overly rich sound from SR Purple? It sounds like tubes that went a bit to far... Very non solid state.
I made the exact same comment when I first got mine. After 100 hrs they dont sound so much like tubes, and it takes about 250 to complete. That said, I find them to always be warm and midrange heavy.
 
Nov 22, 2022 at 7:37 PM Post #569 of 811
Well i would probably start with basic measurements... Micro-Ohm, Micro-L, etc...

But for audio quality the best approach would probably be to take a scope on the input and on the ouput of the fuse and see if there is a difference in the waveforms. If we are talking 1-2% you are not going to see a difference. But 30%? Sure...! Essentially measure the frequency response under load of the system with and without the fuse. (Solid copper as replacement).
Realistically, you would want to mic up your speakers, play some music, record it, and then do a spectral analysis or null test comparing with and without aftermarket fuse. I'm not sure just running some some sine waves is going to show you much.

But, I'm not going to do it because the difference is obvious enough for me. There are YouTube videos out there that you can reference.
 
Nov 22, 2022 at 7:39 PM Post #570 of 811
Realistically, you would want to mic up your speakers, play some music, record it, and then do a spectral analysis or null test comparing with and without aftermarket fuse. I'm not sure just running some some sine waves is going to show you much.

But, I'm not going to do it because the difference is obvious enough for me. There are YouTube videos out there that you can reference.
I understand but i think everyone would want to benefit from this data... especially when we are talking 200$ for simple fuses?
 

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