[gLer]

So not only is there a jumper setting for NOS/OS modes, but a jumper settings for warm mode AND a firmware to choose from for smooth vs accurate? This is overwhelming. Smooth sounds like NOS to me and OS sounds like accurate, but one is software and one is hardware apparently...

Yes, it's all a bit confusing I must say. I guess the only way to know for sure is to try different combinations with your favourite headphones and music and see which you prefer. Personally I'll ask around a bit before deciding on which firmware option to pick. I mean, is smooth + NOS too much of a good thing, or accurate with OS too clinical? Time will tell, but at least we have options...

PS. If you head over to the R2R-7 thread there's a lively discussion going on about the two firmware choices. Maybe @FredA or @JaMo can enlighten us here as to the subtle differences between smooth and accurate, and which would work better with NOS/OS.

 

[FredA]

Yes, it's all a bit confusing I must say. I guess the only way to know for sure is to try different combinations with your favourite headphones and music and see which you prefer. Personally I'll ask around a bit before deciding on which firmware option to pick. I mean, is smooth + NOS too much of a good thing, or accurate with OS too clinical? Time will tell, but at least we have options...

PS. If you head over to the R2R-7 thread there's a lively discussion going on about the two firmware choices. Maybe @FredA or @JaMo can enlighten us here as to the subtle differences between smooth and accurate, and which would work better with NOS/OS.

The accurate fw versions, there are two, are brighter but bring more punch to the party with my speaker setup. One is less bright than the other, i prefer the brighter one. It is more coherent and expressive. I had to do some tweaking to get the balance right. For listening on headphones, my favorite is the smooth version. It is really excellent. This is the version i would advise you to try first if you value listening to heaphones more than speakers. Using the brightest fw, i managed to find an ic that made the sound very good for headphone listening. I prioritize speakers. The smoother accurate fw is a good compromise.

 

[gLer]

The accurate fw versions, there are two, are brighter but bring more punch to the party with my speaker setup. One is less bright than the other, i prefer the brighter one. It is more coherent and expressive. I had to do some tweaking to get the balance right. For listening on headphones, my favorite is the smooth version. It is really excellent. This is the version i would advise you to try first if you value listening to heaphones more than speakers. Using the brightest fw, i managed to find an ic that made the sound very good for headphone listening. I prioritize speakers. The smoother accurate fw is a good compromise.

Smooth it is. I listen almost exclusively on headphones. Does it matter if you listen using NOS or OS, and would you recommend smooth regardless for headphones? I'm thinking accurate + OS 8x could be too clinical and 'oversharp', too much like Delta Sigma.

 

[FredA]

Smooth it is. I listen almost exclusively on headphones. Does it matter if you listen using NOS or OS, and would you recommend smooth regardless for headphones? I'm thinking accurate + OS 8x could be too clinical and 'oversharp', too much like Delta Sigma.

It will not sound like a delta sigma, just brighter, more laid back. With my headphone setup, i have to compensate using a cable that boosts the mids. But the sound is still not as good as with the smooth fw. I haven't tried NOS with any of the new firmwares, but it should maKe the transcients less sharp,

 

[gLer]

It will not sound like a delta sigma, just brighter, more laid back. With my headphone setup, i have to compensate using a cable that boosts the mids. But the sound is still not as good as with the smooth fw.

Definitely smooth then. I don't do bright!

 

[FredA]

Definitely smooth then. I don't do bright!

It makes the sound dull i find. Too far away. You may like the smoother accurate fw though.

 

[FredA]

If you have a headphone set you find sound too rich in mids, the brighter accurate fw could be the fix.

 

[gLer]

It makes the sound dull i find. Too far away. You may like the smoother accurate fw though.

But you said you prefer smooth for headphones? I'm not sure if there is a smooth accurate option for the R-28 - I'll ask Kingwa.

 

[gLer]

If you have a headphone set you find sound too rich in mids, the brighter accurate fw could be the fix.

Do you listen to NOS or OS with headphones, and which mode?

 

[FredA]

Do you listen to NOS or OS with headphones, and which mode?

All listening done with OS8 only,

 

[FredA]

But you said you prefer smooth for headphones? I'm not sure if there is a smooth accurate option for the R-28 - I'll ask Kingwa.

I don't know what Kingwa will officially release for the r-28, but we have currently 3 releases available with the r2r 7, the smooth one, and two accurate ones, one smoother/less bright than the other. The smoother accurate version has a more generous bass.

 

[normanl]

Kingwa just responded to my email regarding new firmware for R-28.
"The new firmware had released.
Two version just for customer can have fun.
The unit will shipping with newest firmware.
Kingwa"

 

[sumpao]

The accurate fw versions, there are two, are brighter but bring more punch to the party with my speaker setup. One is less bright than the other, i prefer the brighter one. It is more coherent and expressive. I had to do some tweaking to get the balance right. For listening on headphones, my favorite is the smooth version. It is really excellent. This is the version i would advise you to try first if you value listening to heaphones more than speakers. Using the brightest fw, i managed to find an ic that made the sound very good for headphone listening. I prioritize speakers. The smoother accurate fw is a good compromise.

Thanks for your comment

Kingwa just responded to my email regarding new firmware for R-28.
"The new firmware had released.
Two version just for customer can have fun.
The unit will shipping with newest firmware.
Kingwa"

There so many possibility with this r-28. Good job Audio Gd

 

[wietschebehr]

Well said and expertly articulated Wietsche. Valid points all. I would add the given how much some people spend on cables (digital, audio and power), the actual cost of the stack would likely be considerably higher than the purchase price itself. You did allude to that above,, but I think it's worth emphasising.

For sure, I assumed interconnect cables are standard equipment for most people. But yes, some people believe in some serious snake oil cables and if you have to buy new magic cables it is definitely something to consider as some cost more than the R28... Although, I think @Currawong stated in his NFB1 review that the ACCS connection between the two seperate units would make the connection much less sensitive to cable quality, so potentially you just need 2 extra cables of reasonable quality and price to connect the two units with no issues and an additional power cable for the second unit.

All very good points, but you missed two: a stack is better 'cos there's more stuff to play with, like cables and (usually) more buttons and switches, and secondly, an imposing stack is always sexier than a single box...

Those are 2 super good points! Have you seen my imposing pyramid stack!? LOL!

the question is simple: some people love separate, some people integrated. i had separate components in the past and was annoyed with space, cables, etc. today only integrated stuffs

Yes I totally agree. The stack needs at least 3 more cables. I am a neat freak myself. Every time I setup a new system or say rearrange my home theatre, I spend days thinking and tinkering with cable management. But if done correctly it gives me immense pleasure that I almost want to show it off.. Thinking about some Google data centres now.. mmm... but then again, as per the first comment above, custom cables start to get expensive. I recently started using cable trunking and cable wraps and that helps keeping the cost and efforts down a bit, especially if you in testing and analysing phase, swapping out many things to discover the results.


I think we should make a summary of all this general considerations and make a sticky of it .

Some points are obvious, but it helps to have a good comprehensive and growing checklist for someone to glance over before they buy stuff. Or does such lists or buyers guides exist here? Some elementary choices can result in very expensive regrets. And most audio enthusiast can't afford expensive mistakes - these things are never cheap. I guess it is all part of the journey.

Cheers,
W

 

[gLer]

Although, I think @Currawong stated in his NFB1 review that the ACCS connection between the two seperate units would make the connection much less sensitive to cable quality, so potentially you just need 2 extra cables of reasonable quality and price to connect the two units with no issues and an additional power cable for the second unit.

Oh you’ll be surprised...some guy was talking about buying custom ACSS cables for upward of $500 on another thread! And don’t get me started on power cables...some people go all out an isolate their amps from the grid in an effort to supply ‘clean’ power, then swear they can hear the difference. Not that I’m throwing cold water on good science, but the cost-for-benefit ratio must be off the charts!