[monkeyfist_78]

Pooping.

Butt no.
I here a small poop when i change from for example TV/optical (48/16) to Tital/USB (44.1/16).
And when I startup the Squeeze-server.

There is a huge poop when I turn of and on the R2R 11 though...
And a smaller when I change the input.

 

[Gambitek]

Have tou tried using the DAC out to the Magni 3 to see if there is a difference?

I didn't even know that was an option... Time to go get the magni back from the friend I just sent it to

 

[439598]

What are your guys preference for the likes of a 400i or 560? these headphones have a special lean and smooth sound that I like, its a difficult choice... should you match them with leaness of NFB or the smoothness of R2R.

 

[thebkt]

What are your guys preference for the likes of a 400i or 560? these headphones have a special lean and smooth sound that I like, its a difficult choice... should you match them with leaness of NFB or the smoothness of R2R.

Based purely on my experience with the 560's, I'd suggest the R2R. To my ears they sounded noticeably better in the treble range when using an R2R DAC, in my case a Mimby.

 

[MkjK]

pushed another jumper into FIR 1 (in addition to FIR 0 default), which changes setting to Slow roll-off, Linear: from slow/minimum

The digital filter is actually set to "minimum phase, FAST roll-off" by default. There is a jumper which is smaller than the others for FIR2 under the Toslink chip.

I use a small "grip-tool" to insert/remove the jumpers.

Make sure that you power off the DAC and wait a bit for the capacitors to discharge before you open it. Also touch some grounded metal to discharge yourself before you get your fingers close to anything inside.

I personally used the "linear phase, slow roll-off" filter for about a month because the treble was ridiculously sharp with the fast roll-off filters.

I don't know if it is just my brain forming new connections or if some components require "burn-in" but it really did improve alot after some 150-200 hours of usage, and after that I could change the setting to "linear phase, fast roll-off" and the sound is smooth, coherent and just awesome.

 

[439598]

does the R2R have a 'bit depth'?

 

[Dexon]

does the R2R have a 'bit depth'?

No. Digital music have a bit depth and than its a matter whether R2R dac can read it or not.

 

[439598]

No. Digital music have a bit depth and than its a matter whether R2R dac can read it or not.

and the maximum supported bit depth is...?

 

[gLer]

It drives the LCD-3 extremely well, with plenty of power to spare. Just go for it.

Thanks Igor. Have you tried your LCD-3 with other amps as well? How does it compare? On paper the 11.28/R2R-11 have 'just' enough power to drive them, although my experience is that they have much more power than the specs suggest. I have mine set between 9 and 10 o'clock for the LCD-2 (I know volume doesn't equate to synergy or real power, but still), although that's an easier headphone to drive than the 3 I would imagine. Also drives my 300ohm Atticus with ease (and style). Just want to know it'll give the LCD-3's qualities the power they need to shine.

 

[I g o r]

Thanks Igor. Have you tried your LCD-3 with other amps as well? How does it compare? On paper the 11.28/R2R-11 have 'just' enough power to drive them, although my experience is that they have much more power than the specs suggest. I have mine set between 9 and 10 o'clock for the LCD-2 (I know volume doesn't equate to synergy or real power, but still), although that's an easier headphone to drive than the 3 I would imagine. Also drives my 300ohm Atticus with ease (and style). Just want to know it'll give the LCD-3's qualities the power they need to shine.

I have tried my LCD-3 with the Burson V2 and it is, I would say 15% better especially in the low end, where it really shines with more authority and punch, you can feel the air move. But it costs 4 times more (with DAC).

On my NFB-11.28 I drive the LCD-3 on high gain between 10 and 11 o’clock, and I feel I don’t need another amp. Although I want a Burson V2+ in the future.

 

[gLer]

I have tried my LCD-3 with the Burson V2 and it is, I would say 15% better especially in the low end, where it really shines with more authority and punch, you can feel the air move. But it costs 4 times more (with DAC).

On my NFB-11.28 I drive the LCD-3 on high gain between 10 and 11 o’clock, and I feel I don’t need another amp. Although I want a Burson V2+ in the future.

Thanks - how funny, I was busy reading the specs of the Burson V2 when you replied. Must be fate! Although I would prefer to stick to R2R dacs if and when I upgrade in future. Good to know the NFB drives the LCD-3 so well, can't wait for mine to arrive.

 

[I g o r]

Then just use R2R-11 DAC into the V2 and have fun!

 

[gLer]

Then just use R2R-11 DAC into the V2 and have fun!

Or better yet, an NFB-1 (fully balanced). Cheaper too, with the same or more power. What can I say, I like Audio-GD.

 

[439598]

It is not "only a USB interface". It has galvanic isolation for one, that alone could give massive sound improvement. It also isolate EMI/RFI, significantly lowers jitter and has linear power supply built-in. Sonically, Eitr trumps most USB -> SPDIF converters out there, even the $1000 Mutec MC-3+. You can see the comparison here.
I also have another USB decrapifier (iFi iPurifier2) that supposedly cleans the USB signal, but I barely hear any difference in sound quality if any. But with Eitr (only Eitr and R2R-11 in the chain), its massive and very apparent, especially the bass. It has way more bass quantity and impact. Sound layering and separation also improves a ton too. But the best thing about the SQ improvement is the vocals, all sibilance is gone, no digital shrill no more.

My friend had 2 Wyrds before, and it barely makes an improvement to F-1 + Intona, so he sold them. With I2S he thought Singxer SU-1 sounded the best for his DAC (Spring KTE L3) so I assume it might be the same for R2R-7. In the aforementioned blog post above, the poster said for coax, Eitr is better than SU-1 so it went with it for the R2R-11. Also Eitr is the cheapest of the lot, its no brainer. I use a cheap $25 coax cable, but I think Schiit's $20 PYST coax cable should sound the same. Some people said on another forum that Audioquest Diamond/Coffee sounds better than Schiit PYST cable for the Eitr, but for 0.75m the Diamond costs $500, lets not go that path shall we.

EDIT: The PYST RCA cable is not 75 ohm, Schiit doesn't even recommend it for Eitr use. Some other posters are recommending Blue Jeans cables instead. @FredA I'm tagging you, I thought you might want to know this.

Old post but I experienced a very noticeable improvement with my ODAC when using a cheap regulated 5V supply for the DAC USB power instead of the PC's power. I also used a galvanic USB isolator (from Hifime) but found it didnt make any noticeable improvement to sound quality, I originally bought it to remove digital noise when the DAC was connected to a speaker amp and it worked perfectly for this so its definitely a legit product.

looking at the iFi iPurifier2 it doesnt have a power supply so the improvements you noticed with the Eitr could very likely be down to its power supply.

Before using the power supply I tried a USB3 port instead of USB2 but it made no noticeable improvement either.

EDIT: the ODAC is a fully USB powered DAC where the R2R 11 probably only uses the power for the USB Receiver, the output stage in the ODAC is likely using the power and causing the improvements. Will have to test it myself once the R2R arrives

Edit 2: Stupid post, I assumed the Eitr had a USB out.

 

[bontaname]

The digital filter is actually set to "minimum phase, FAST roll-off" by default. There is a jumper which is smaller than the others for FIR2 under the Toslink chip.

I use a small "grip-tool" to insert/remove the jumpers.

Make sure that you power off the DAC and wait a bit for the capacitors to discharge before you open it. Also touch some grounded metal to discharge yourself before you get your fingers close to anything inside.

I personally used the "linear phase, slow roll-off" filter for about a month because the treble was ridiculously sharp with the fast roll-off filters.

I don't know if it is just my brain forming new connections or if some components require "burn-in" but it really did improve alot after some 150-200 hours of usage, and after that I could change the setting to "linear phase, fast roll-off" and the sound is smooth, coherent and just awesome.

had the exact same experience. as long as the amp has had >30 minutes to warm up, linear/fast roll-off is the way to go. minimum phase is ok but there were occasional distortion issues