Audio-GD DI-20
Nov 18, 2020 at 7:27 PM Post #2,551 of 5,348
Analogue as signature sound sounds VERY interesting, I just upgraded to the last beta version of Daphile and am quite baffled by the improvememt in Sq it makes but I hear what you say....makes me want to audition that system. I probably would dedicate an SSd drive to it so I can easily swap and boot without settings going haywire in either system. Is there a community/site you recommend?
 
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Nov 18, 2020 at 7:56 PM Post #2,552 of 5,348
At the moment. there are some limitations on hardware support in ArcaOS.
These restrictions are temporary, and the OS developers have committed to solving these problems in the next major release.
But, you need to know about this before you try anything.
1. While there is no UEFI support, this means that your motherboard must support Legacy Boot or CSM booting.
2. there is no full support for USB 3.0 controllers Yet. In General, the keyboard and mouse can work in USB 3.0 ports, but the USB Audio device will not be detected in 3.0 ports. A driver for XHCI controller is currently under development. as soon as it implements asynchronous mode, other developers from the USB Audio group will be able to adapt their stack version to XHCI.
In fact, everything is better than it seems, for example, in my motherboard, the USB3.0 port works with audio devices, I just don't include the XHCI controller in the BIOS and that's it.
These are all restrictions.
Oh, I forgot.. It should be understood that this OS only works on the x86 architecture.

And of course, you need to understand that the user community of this OS is not very large and no one will give their heads on the fact that ArcaOS will be successfully installed on any hardware.

I can only advise you to use not expensive, small ITX Intel motherboards on Atom processors for the experiment.
Like this one INTEL D2700MUD
The simpler the better.
 
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Nov 19, 2020 at 5:39 AM Post #2,553 of 5,348
shall we splice off a thread for this endeavour? I'll have to see if my older NUC will do for this (it does support legacy boot), AND a big item for is whether my JCatt USB PCIe card is supported, other than that; slamming in another SDD drive and tinkering around with the OS to audition it is fun. Daphile recently released a new beta that sounds even better than before (needed to install it to get Tidal working again)

Thread started: https://www.head-fi.org/threads/arcos-operating-system.947583/
 
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Nov 19, 2020 at 10:50 AM Post #2,554 of 5,348
Hello mates
I'm not really a tech guy, but I took care of I my digital rig so each part played a role (bigger or smaller) on upgrading the sound quality. I've spent time, effort and money (at least for my budget) to improve my digital rig as best as possible.

By the way, thanks to some of you for the information shared. It helped a lot!

Here is my digital chain:

- Regular ADSL Modem (with no WiFi). The only gadget that is not HiFi and it doesn't make a difference I guess.
- Router Ubiquiti Networks Er-x-sfp 5 with a budget chinese LPS
- Uptone Etherregen with a budget chinese LPS.
- SOtM SMS200 Ultra Neo SE (used as Audinirvana end point) with a Swagman LPS.
- Audioquest Jitterbug
- Wyred4Sound RUR USB Reclocker
- Audio-GD DI-20
- Audio-GD R8 DAC

Well, I found what I believe is a VERY GOOD CHEAP alternative for those who can phisically assemble it. I guess it's like they say "There's no better USB cable like no USB cable at all"!!

My USB cables between SMS200 and DI-20 "were" 0.4m Curious Evolved and 1m long DH Labs standard USB.

I replaced the DH Labs one for a "USB A to B adapter" and things got better. More focused and better imaging, more detail/information, etc. Similar to what you get when you treat vibration and power (cleaner sound and more realism). And it only cost me about 3 bucks and save me from spending about U$S 200 to try a new USB cable to replace the DH Labs one!!!!! Here are the pictures:


USB A to B adapter.jpg



Here it is the chain: SMS200 > Jitterbug > USB adapter > W4S RUR > Curious cable > DI-20


USB adapter between SMS and DI.jpg


Totally recomended!!!

By the way, I use vibrapods to isolate some of the gear. Also very good results for the price.
 
Nov 19, 2020 at 11:03 AM Post #2,555 of 5,348
By the way, anyone here using Audinirvana on Windows 10 and a SMS-200 feeding a DI-20?

If so, is there an advice on how to set up Windows or Audinirvana regarding ASIO, WASAPI, clocks, etc?

As I have the RUR (Reclocker) in between I guess it wouldn't matter maybe. Am I correct?

By the way, I've found that the RUR did make a difference before the DI-20. Not huge, but noticeable and worthwile.

These digital concepts are not easy to understand and there are too many variables! :sweat:
 
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Nov 19, 2020 at 2:35 PM Post #2,556 of 5,348
@PLGA. I can't help with Audinirvana, but Windows part of configuration is identical to the Foobar. It is a mandatory step to enable option "Allow exclusive access" in the audio device properties (Advanced tab). Otherwise application request for WASAPI exclusive access is denied. Also in the same place tick an option for high priority. All other tricky things belong to the application. One for sure: you have to select WASAPI as the output, not a Direct Sound nor a default sound device. Alternatively ASIO output (available if Amanero drivers are installed).

And thats all, I am confused with these jittery devices, I am sure you don't need any, just a quality USB cable (I put two ferrite clamps on both sides).
exclusive_mode.png
 
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Nov 19, 2020 at 3:27 PM Post #2,557 of 5,348
I'm still more inclined to go Computer (on LPS)- precision clocked PCIe I2S bridge ou (on LPS)> I2S cable >DAC
 
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Nov 19, 2020 at 5:15 PM Post #2,558 of 5,348
Hello mates
I'm not really a tech guy, but I took care of I my digital rig so each part played a role (bigger or smaller) on upgrading the sound quality. I've spent time, effort and money (at least for my budget) to improve my digital rig as best as possible.

By the way, thanks to some of you for the information shared. It helped a lot!

Here is my digital chain:

- Regular ADSL Modem (with no WiFi). The only gadget that is not HiFi and it doesn't make a difference I guess.
- Router Ubiquiti Networks Er-x-sfp 5 with a budget chinese LPS
- Uptone Etherregen with a budget chinese LPS.
- SOtM SMS200 Ultra Neo SE (used as Audinirvana end point) with a Swagman LPS.
- Audioquest Jitterbug
- Wyred4Sound RUR USB Reclocker
- Audio-GD DI-20
- Audio-GD R8 DAC

Well, I found what I believe is a VERY GOOD CHEAP alternative for those who can phisically assemble it. I guess it's like they say "There's no better USB cable like no USB cable at all"!!

My USB cables between SMS200 and DI-20 "were" 0.4m Curious Evolved and 1m long DH Labs standard USB.

I replaced the DH Labs one for a "USB A to B adapter" and things got better. More focused and better imaging, more detail/information, etc. Similar to what you get when you treat vibration and power (cleaner sound and more realism). And it only cost me about 3 bucks and save me from spending about U$S 200 to try a new USB cable to replace the DH Labs one!!!!! Here are the pictures:

Here it is the chain: SMS200 > Jitterbug > USB adapter > W4S RUR > Curious cable > DI-20

Totally recomended!!!

By the way, I use vibrapods to isolate some of the gear. Also very good results for the price.
Nice setup! Have you tried without the jitterbug? I bought a jitterbyug myself when my laptop was connected directly to the usb-s/pdif converter. But when I bought my streamer and lps, the sound was better without it; with the streamer, the signal was improved to a level, that the jutterbug was giving a negative impact to the sound - a kind of veil effect, making the sound less dynamic and more dull sounding. Just a tip if you didn’t try without :)
 
Nov 20, 2020 at 6:09 PM Post #2,559 of 5,348
so, just finished connecting the SSD to a separate power supply, and finished my I2S cable and compared it to the blue jeans.
separate PSU for the SSD is gonna stay!!
DIY I2S cable too!

My seat is now 10 rows closer to the front, inky black background, better layering, soundstage, decay, attack, dynamics.

next is probably going to be the Pink Faun HEA I2S bridge, just not sure what the difference in performance numbers is between the two OXCO's they designed
 
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Nov 20, 2020 at 7:01 PM Post #2,560 of 5,348
[QUOTE = "marcelnl、投稿:15988511、メンバー:133115"]
それで、SSDを別の電源に接続し終えて、I2Sケーブルを完成させ、ブルージーンズと比較しました。
SSD用の別のPSUが残ります!!
DIY I2Sケーブルも!

私の席は今や正面に10列近く、真っ黒な背景、より良いレイヤー、サウンドステージ、ディケイ、アタック、ダイナミクスです。

次はおそらくPinkFaun HEA I2Sブリッジになるでしょうが、彼らが設計した2つのOXCOのパフォーマンス数値の違いが何であるかはわかりません。
[/見積もり]
DIY I2Sケーブルが見たいです!
 
Nov 20, 2020 at 7:46 PM Post #2,561 of 5,348
I would love to be able to communicate in what appears to be Japanese, but I am unable to, can you use a translator?
 
Nov 20, 2020 at 7:49 PM Post #2,562 of 5,348
nothing much to see , I made it as planned ; 4 twisted pairs each in an EMI shield, used OFC copper in cotton.
 
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Nov 22, 2020 at 2:56 AM Post #2,564 of 5,348
Hi fellow head-fi friends,

I downloaded http://www.audio-gd.com/Firmwaredownload.htm to download
DI-20V4.076 (Oct. 2020) and followed this guide http://www.audio-gd.com/R2R/R8/R8updateEN.htm

However, after firmware upgrade completed, my DI-20 USB input is no longer working, my Nvidia Shield TV is no longer to detect USB sound output and Macbook Pro could not see DI-20 as well, Coaxial input is working OK.

any advice?

Previously the USB input was very unstable and I needed to reboot DI-20 everytime I turn on Shield TV

Appreciate your advice,
Thanks,
 

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Nov 22, 2020 at 3:24 AM Post #2,565 of 5,348
Hi fellow head-fi friends,

I downloaded http://www.audio-gd.com/Firmwaredownload.htm to download
DI-20V4.076 (Oct. 2020) and followed this guide http://www.audio-gd.com/R2R/R8/R8updateEN.htm

However, after firmware upgrade completed, my DI-20 USB input is no longer working, my Nvidia Shield TV is no longer to detect USB sound output and Macbook Pro could not see DI-20 as well, Coaxial input is working OK.

any advice?

Previously the USB input was very unstable and I needed to reboot DI-20 everytime I turn on Shield TV

Appreciate your advice,
Thanks,
Hi,
Most probably you need to reflash the amanero.
 

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