[FredA]

The DI20HE is my first interface that doesn't care about the Intona (I would assume this is also true of the ISO Regen). The W4S recovery still brought a welcome improvement even though the DI20HE continued to operate after I lifted the 5v pin on my USB cable.

Thanks for suggesting the HE be plugged to the wall -- I should have thought to try that. With this everything is more and I'm not hearing any detriment.

Power cord selection has a bigger impact on the DI20HE than it does on my R2R7.

Actually, mine is hooked to a 500VA isolation transfo. The point is to avoid limiting current too much.
I tried today with and without the intona and i still prefer with it but the usbrdige is on a separate power distributor so the intona breaks a possible ground loop. When the usbridge is fully burned in, i will try again to take the intona out.

 

[ProLoL]

Well, as I see it, your biggest problem will be the USB signal. My experience with USB signals from computers is that they are crap.

With those three HE Audio-gd products fed by a computer signal, I would say is like having a Ferrari driven by grandma.

I would think about spending some money on a device that can provide a clean USB signal to the DI-20HE, like the Sonore Ultrarendu or the SOtM SMS-200 Ultra Neo. Im sure they will make a BIG difference in sound.

Block the 4th pin on the right in your usb with a tape, will improve things.

 

[Genna]

I’m also new here and had my attempts to make a computer sound good about two years ago and want to share my result: buy a streamer!

I started with a modified Macbook Unibody (Mid 2011) with 8 Gb RAM, 256 GB SSD and to avoid vibrations convert the build-in cd drive to a external drive. I bought a iFi Audio micro iUSB3.0 with Gemini & Mercury cable (~1300 EUR) for a better and cleaner USB signal and had an improvement. I tried a Win10 Singleboardcomputer LattePanda (Raspie on steroids) too, but finally I came to the true that the circuit boards are not designed for a clean and clear signal...

I looked for a streamer bridge and bought a used Auralic Aires Femto...welcome in another world!
After 3 months I upgraded the Aries Femto to the newer Aries G1 because it fits perfectly to the Audio-GD’s devices visually.

Don‘t waste time and money and try a streamer (bridge) and you will not regret it.

I don‘t have a DDC, but end of this month I’ll order a DI-20HE!

 

[PLGA]

I’m also new here and had my attempts to make a computer sound good about two years ago and want to share my result: buy a streamer!

I couldnt agree more. Dont waste your time on computers.

 

[PLGA]

he W4S recovery still brought a welcome improvement even though the DI20HE continued to operate after I lifted the 5v pin on my USB cable.

Regarding the W4S RUR, I've also had it and it made a good improvement on my computer USB signal, but actually it made worse my SOtM SMS-200 Ultra Neo USB signal. I understand John Darko came to a similar conclusion, its only worthwile if you have a computer USB signal.

 

[DACLadder]

The DDC wars are heating up... Singxer has a new model SU-2. Looks like an SU-1 but with Accusilicon XOs and external 10M input. Around $400.

 

[Jackula]

PC is fine as long as you understand the source of its weakness and address it. Usually it's the proximity of your PC to the rest of your equipment , differential noise on mains and USB noise.

USB noise is easily treatable i.e. via my ISO Regen, noise on mains is treated via filters or AC regen and I have a 3m air gap between my PC and the rest of my gear.

I've had people bring over their Auralic Aries, Soundaware D300, Sotm etc and surprise, there was either no audible difference and in some cases my PC sounded better.

 

[FredA]

PC is fine as long as you understand the source of its weakness and address it. Usually it's the proximity of your PC to the rest of your equipment , differential noise on mains and USB noise.

USB noise is easily treatable i.e. via my ISO Regen, noise on mains is treated via filters or AC regen and I have a 3m air gap between my PC and the rest of my gear.

I've had people bring over their Auralic Aries, Soundaware D300, Sotm etc and surprise, there was either no audible difference and in some cases my PC sounded better.

Many combinations can work. I like the two node solution where one computer decodes the data and sends it over upnp or other ethernet protocol to second (audiophile) node which just relays the well clocked bytes to the ddc. I have yet to try it.

 

[Wynnytsky]

Many combinations can work. I like the two node solution where one computer decodes the data and sends it over upnp or other ethernet protocol to second (audiophile) node which just relays the well clocked bytes to the ddc. I have yet to try it.

agreed

@REAN1MAT0R
If you like downloading+collecting your own music then your off to a great start with that ATX build. Just put it in your home office and spoil yourself with a good chair and DasKeyboard (no need for PCIe cards). Share your music with Roon (I use JRiver) and send a gigabit ethernet run to your audio room where I imagine a Sotm sMS-200ultra Neo would be the best bang for the buck. Maybe there are simple endpoints from Melco, Aurender, Lumin, or Innuos -- no need to pay for their full on server offerings as you already have one.

Now if you want to watch mkv/youtube/etc videos on your stereo (and that's not asking much) then I would still keep your water cooled box in the office and consider a second mini computer which could also run Roon or JRiver. Laptops/NUCs/pies are underpowered and noisy. I hope AMDs Zen3 shakes up the mini computer market because Intel is in a rut.

 

[FredA]

The usbridge signature can be used as an endpoint. Roon or upnp. Or airplay. Requires some skills to set-up but sound quality is very good with it after 70 hours of burn-in. Sound quality is supposedly comparable to a sotm sms-200 (not neo).

 

[REAN1MAT0R]

My best advice would be connect all you HE gears straight to the wall, otherwise use the high-current outlets.

I have only one outlet so my pc and audio gear all must be connected with Powergrip YG-1
The only question is how to spread two pc cables, di-20he, r-7he and master 9he between its 4 digital outputs 4 analog outputs and 2 high current outputs

Get heavy-gauge power cables for them.

I am using Furutech FP-3TS762 for two PC psus and have one more for Di-20HE, using Furutech Alpha-PS9 for master7 singularity and master 9 now - they will go to R-7HE and Master 9HE. I am searching for something for Powergrip YG-1 as it need non standart C20 plug like two of my pc psus

As hdmi cable, get a 0.5m cable. I have a Moshou 2.0b now and it is very nice. Turn all gears off when making this connection.

good news) so i will try their hdmi 2.1

I use this usb cable, it is excellent, be warned it will sound a bit bright before burn in (80 hours).
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/0-7-Meter-H...568100?hash=item1ec2768ce4:gAsAAOSwrZBcMzMp

Hard to choose when seller does not show cable inside
I bought this one some time ago. Hope I will find and try it

Get an acss cable to connect the dac the headphone amp if you don't have one.

are you shure acss is better option then XLR with furutech FA-220 cable? acss from audio-gd looks like low end cable. I have to make this cable from litz wire but it will cost some money while I dont shure if acss connection is 100% better then xlr

Because your using an ATX computer you are compelled to get an audiophile USB card like those discussed here

I would think about spending some money on a device that can provide a clean USB signal to the DI-20HE

lol what? do you mean i need something MORE between dac and pc then only DI-20HE???... omg
It will be hard to add another one pci-e card on motherboard for me. because I already have two videocards and pci-e x4 SSD. adding one more pci-e device will cut pci-e x16 to x8 for one of videocards but my pc is top gaming machine so its..undesirably

I couldnt agree more. Dont waste your time on computers.

hah) I am wasting time on audio
Because I am using audio gear not for music playing but for all: games, video, music

If you like downloading+collecting your own music then your off to a great start with that ATX build. Just put it in your home office and spoil yourself with a good chair and DasKeyboard (no need for PCIe cards). Share your music with Roon (I use JRiver) and send a gigabit ethernet run to your audio room where I imagine a Sotm sMS-200ultra Neo would be the best bang for the buck. Maybe there are simple endpoints from Melco, Aurender, Lumin, or Innuos -- no need to pay for their full on server offerings as you already have one.

I just using computer for all computer things) Games, video, music. I am trying to make its sound perfect as possible.
I don't see the point of making a separate room for audio. I want to listen all stuff in my chair:

Spoiler: auch!

Vibrating watercooling on the balcony:

Chair photo)

 

[PLGA]

I have only one outlet so my pc and audio gear all must be connected with Powergrip YG-1
The only question is how to spread two pc cables, di-20he, r-7he and master 9he between its 4 digital outputs 4 analog outputs and 2 high current outputs


I am using Furutech FP-3TS762 for two PC psus and have one more for Di-20HE, using Furutech Alpha-PS9 for master7 singularity and master 9 now - they will go to R-7HE and Master 9HE. I am searching for something for Powergrip YG-1 as it need non standart C20 plug like two of my pc psus


good news) so i will try their hdmi 2.1


Hard to choose when seller does not show cable inside
I bought this one some time ago. Hope I will find and try it


are you shure acss is better option then XLR with furutech FA-220 cable? acss from audio-gd looks like low end cable. I have to make this cable from litz wire but it will cost some money while I dont shure if acss connection is 100% better then xlr



lol what? do you mean i need something MORE between dac and pc then only DI-20HE???... omg
It will be hard to add another one pci-e card on motherboard for me. because I already have two videocards and pci-e x4 SSD. adding one more pci-e device will cut pci-e x16 to x8 for one of videocards but my pc is top gaming machine so its..undesirably


hah) I am wasting time on audio
Because I am using audio gear not for music playing but for all: games, video, music


I just using computer for all computer things) Games, video, music. I am trying to make its sound perfect as possible.
I don't see the point of making a separate room for audio. I want to listen all stuff in my chair:

Spoiler: auch!

Vibrating watercooling on the balcony:

Chair photo)

No, I dont think you are wasting your time on this hobby, its a beautiful one! Expensive, but beautiful!

Take everything we say with a grain of salt, as YMMV! As you see above, many of us have different experiences, needs, ears and systems. I'm sure your three Audio-GD HE products will sound GREAT with ANYTHING you throw at them, but just make sure you provide the DI-20HE with the best USB signal possible in your situation.

If you need to use a computer, I would humbly suggest to try one USB conditioner like the Wyred4Sound USB Reclocker. It's not expensive and may be you can try it, or one similar, with a 30 day trial period. If you don't like it, you can return it. Of course, after you have burned your Audio-GD devices.

Good luck!

 

[FredA]

@REAN1MAT0R

The fa-220 puts emphasis on the mids when used as acss (very hard to assemble as such), as xlr it should be similar. So you can get better than this. The usb cable i linked is easily comparable to a 200$ cable.

 

[REAN1MAT0R]

The fa-220 puts emphasis on the mids when used as acss (very hard to assemble as such), as xlr it should be similar. So you can get better than this.

its sad
I will try to find out what custom cable options I can have. I think the only available option will be copper litz wire
Are you shure that ACSS connection is better then XLR for audio gd? with same cable

make sure you provide the DI-20HE with the best USB signal possible in your situation.

I think DI-20 already reclocks usb to its best way and I dont need anything more
I dont understand why it still needs one more reclocker as it already has Accusilicon 90/98M clocks? and which one is best way without unnessesary overpayment? iFi Audio micro iUSB3.0 ? Singxer SU-2? Singxer SU-2 looks like similar device to Di-20
May be DI-20HE is not best option (Singxer SU-2 offers higher bitrates and looks to me more powerful) and I need to choose another one(s) ?
What device I need between dac R-7HE and PC usb for collaboration with Di-20HE or without it if there are better options?
I dont want to overpay for brands as I choose Audio-GD and I know that sound can be top level without 25000$ dac but I dont want tu buy useless devices to sell them after. I need good rock solid choice.

Laptops/NUCs/pies are underpowered and noisy

I have Dell Alienware Area-51m 9900K 64gb ram RTX2080 and MSI Titan GT76 9900KS 128Gb ram RTX2080 they are high powered but you dont need them as all music stuff is near pc and its too heavy to move it to laptop))

 

[FredA]

its sad
I will try to find out what custom cable options I can have. I think the only available option will be copper litz wire
Are you shure that ACSS connection is better then XLR for audio gd? with same cable

Copper litz if real litz, enameled one, should beat the fa-220. Any single wire i have tried, i tried 2-3 as both, was always better as acss. Acss is the way to go with audio-gd for the ultimate sound quality. Aliexpress sells silver litz, if you can solder. Litz is hard to work with. Needs sanding to get rid of the enamel, then needs to be tined...