[Wynnytsky]

hah) I am wasting time on audio
Because I am using audio gear not for music playing but for all: games, video, music

Love that response, and it really hit home when I clicked your spoiler alert.
I keep forgetting this place is called headfi and I spend half my time thinking about my room and how sound bounces.
Wait till Qinghua sees that computer -- maybe he could help you direct some of that cooling to his HE units.

I want to throw in my own experience with computer power:
I can't say for certain I heard a difference between powering a computer with a 200watt 10amp LPS and a laptop brick.
But anything I gave LPS power in between the computer and DAC was huge (USB "regenerators" and USB interface).

I also have one dual gang outlet, so one plug gets the Niagara 1200 and the other was empty.
Last night (around 250 hours) I moved the DI20HE from the Niagara 1200 to the empty outlet and that was a sound worthy of the over-the-top praise I've read here.
After doing that I heard a tick of noise every now and then but that cleared as it warmed up, and even if stayed I would keep it in the wall because it was that impressive.

Q: Do you plan to on getting amazing VR goggles, or at least a big monitor for that? If I didn't know better I'd think that thing was procured for mining crypto currency or some other brute force problem solving.

 

[PLGA]

I think DI-20 already reclocks usb to its best way and I dont need anything more
I dont understand why it still needs one more reclocker as it already has Accusilicon 90/98M clocks? and which one is best way without unnessesary overpayment? iFi Audio micro iUSB3.0 ? Singxer SU-2? Singxer SU-2 looks like similar device to Di-20
May be DI-20HE is not best option (Singxer SU-2 offers higher bitrates and looks to me more powerful) and I need to choose another one(s) ?
What device I need between dac R-7HE and PC usb for collaboration with Di-20HE or without it if there are better options?
I dont want to overpay for brands as I choose Audio-GD and I know that sound can be top level without 25000$ dac but I dont want tu buy useless devices to sell them after. I need good rock solid choice.

Well, its really hard to know for sure, unless you experiment.

I would start with the three Audio-GD HE products and then, if you have the chance, I would advice you to try some USB conditioner as they are not too expensive and they can improve the PC USB signal. May be you can borrow one.

I havent tried the DI-20 feeding it with my PC + the W4S RUR vs my SOtM SMS-200 Ultra Neo alone, but I did it on with Gustard U16, another DDC like the DI-20.

 

[REAN1MAT0R]

Copper litz if real litz, enameled one, should beat the fa-220. Any single wire i have tried, i tried 2-3 as both, was always better as acss. Acss is the way to go with audio-gd for the ultimate sound quality.

thanks a lot!
I have a friend that make audio cables from litz wire here in Moscow so I will order acss plugs and make this cable.

Q: Do you plan to on getting amazing VR goggles, or at least a big monitor for that? If I didn't know better I'd think that thing was procured for mining crypto currency or some other brute force problem solving.

Gaming. I have 27 inches 165hz 2540*1440 ips monitor now. tried dell 3440x1440 120hz ips last year but they had certain quality problems so I am waiting for some reasonable with 4k or ultra-wide with high refresh rate. Its complicated by the fact that monitor manufacturers dont support new video cables standarts such as hdmi 2.1. Therefore they are limited by the bandwidth of old video cables versions and they can not handle ultrawide or 4k with 165-175-200hz without color compression. Color compression (chroma subsampling 4:2:2 and lower) looks very bad on any still image.
nobody uses expensive components or watercooling for mining - "minumun investment" is the main goal for it

Last night (around 250 hours) I moved the DI20HE from the Niagara 1200 to the empty outlet and that was a sound worthy of the over-the-top praise I've read here.
After doing that I heard a tick of noise every now and then but that cleared as it warmed up, and even if stayed I would keep it in the wall because it was that impressive.

I have Powergrip YG-1 and tried Master 7 Singularity + Master 9 with it and it make good difference. Despite I have big and very good stabilizer/filter for all home electricity.
They are not HE. But this Powergrip YG-1 looks more complex inside rather than Niagara. I will try HE devices with wall connection but I hope they will be better with Powergrip too.

So I think i get a little more understanding
devices like DI-20 converts usb signal to signal suitable for dac - i2s. And it converts usb signal with its present noise(jitter).
well looks like I bought quite expensive thing just for converting signal. I was hoping it clears usb signal too.
to clear signal fron jitter I need another device. for quick search it is IFI MICRO IUSB3.0
but it is hard for me to allocate such devices from all audio variety. May be it is not their last device or not best device. What should I use for it to then not regret the choice ?
Does DI-20HE + IFI MICRO IUSB3.0(or its better analog) is right way for best sound from PC?
Or should i change DI-20HE for something better? I am not sure if something better exists

 

[Jackula]

Many combinations can work. I like the two node solution where one computer decodes the data and sends it over upnp or other ethernet protocol to second (audiophile) node which just relays the well clocked bytes to the ddc. I have yet to try it.

Interesting thought, although I haven't really looked into how I can send PCM over Ethernet and another PC to relay it.

What I have is a network node that runs Roon Core and handles connectivity to Tidal etc, it is 17m away on the other side of the house with 6 walls in between. I have done testing by adding a switch to my audio-room and the improvement is huge without, those things dish out tons of RF/EMI.

The ISO Regen is almost like my relay, it doesn't just clean up USB power, it also collects all the PCM packets over USB and then replays them at the correct timing. I tried swapping the ISO Regen for a simple USB isolator and it introduced a lot of jitter since the USB cable is over 3m long! And removing the USB isolator altogether introduced a higher noise floor. This was all before the DI-20HE, I have yet to do another test to see what combination works best, I suspect I will be able to replace my ISO Regen with a simpler cheaper device that simply helps to clean up the line noise.

 

[Tango Sierra]

The DI-20HE is almost here.

I sent payment on 28 December (USA time).
Audio-gd said the unit was ready for shipment 31 December (USA time).
DHL had possession in Hong Kong on 3 January (Hong Kong time).
I got a text today (2 January USA time) that delivery will be made Monday 6 January (USA time).

In short, I will have it in my possession nine days after paying for it. Not too bad a wait for China to Rural North Central Illinois of the USA.

 

[FredA]

devices like DI-20 converts usb signal to signal suitable for dac - i2s. And it converts usb signal with its present noise(jitter).

Not exactly. The di can in theory remove all jitter. But some say that with a noisy/jittery usb signal, there is more messaging done between the sender and receiver. This will produce even more noise on the usb side of the di (beside what the usb connection introduces). This noise will slightly be transferred to the clean side somehow (?). So those asynch usb interfaces are very good at dejittering and isolating, but helping them with a clean usb signal will give a sound quality improvement.

 

[anroj]

The DI-20HE is almost here.

I sent payment on 28 December (USA time).
Audio-gd said the unit was ready for shipment 31 December (USA time).
DHL had possession in Hong Kong on 3 January (Hong Kong time).
I got a text today (2 January USA time) that delivery will be made Monday 6 January (USA time).

In short, I will have it in my possession nine days after paying for it. Not too bad a wait for China to Rural North Central Illinois of the USA.

It was about the same timeframe for me. I ordered my DI-20 on December 19th and it arrived on December 27th to Seattle. Congratulations! You will love it.

 

[REAN1MAT0R]

The di can in theory remove all jitter. But some say that with a noisy/jittery usb signal, there is more messaging done between the sender and receiver. This will produce even more noise on the usb side of the di (beside what the usb connection introduces). This noise will slightly be transferred to the clean side somehow (?). So those asynch usb interfaces are very good at dejittering and isolating, but helping them with a clean usb signal will give a sound quality improvement.

Do you mean that DI can (possibly) remove all jitter from usb and I will not need any additional device between DI and PC but if insert another one "reclocker" - it will not make worse 100%, the question is just how much(or low) its improvement will be ?

So if we speaking about adding some device between DI-20HE and PC - what it should be?
Is IFI MICRO IUSB3.0 best choise or not?

 

[darren700]

Do you mean that DI can (possibly) remove all jitter from usb and I will not need any additional device between DI and PC but if insert another one "reclocker" - it will not make worse 100%, the question is just how much(or low) its improvement will be ?

So if we speaking about adding some device between DI-20HE and PC - what it should be?
Is IFI MICRO IUSB3.0 best choise or not?

I would suggest the Uptone ISO Regen powered by Uptone LPS1.2
I use this setup in two different systems with both my DI-20 and DI-20HE and it is a great pairing.

My Chains look like this:

Speaker Setup
Win10 PC -->Jriver -> DLNA -> Uptone EtherRegen Switch -> Furutech CAT7 Ethernet --> SOTM SMS-200 Ultra Neo Streamer (Uptone LPS1.2 powered) --> Audio Sensibility Statement Silver USB --> Uptone ISO Regen (Uptone LPS1.2 Powered) --> Audio-GD DI-20 90/98 (HE-350 powered) --> Moshou 0.5mm HDMI 2.1 --> Audio-GD R2R7 (HE-350 powered) -->> SST Thoebe II Preamp (HE-350 powered) --> SST Son Of Ampzilla II --> Speakers

Headphone Setup
Win 10 PC --> Jriver -> SOTM tX-USBexp PCI-E USB Card (Mshow LPS Powered) --> Audio Sensibility Statement Silver USB --> Uptone ISO Regen (Uptone LPS1 Powered) --> Audio-GD DI-20HE 90/98 --> Moshou 0.5mm HDMI 2.1 --> Audio-GD R1 --> Audio-GD Master 9 --> Heaphones

 

[FredA]

Do you mean that DI can (possibly) remove all jitter from usb and I will not need any additional device between DI and PC but if insert another one "reclocker" - it will not make worse 100%, the question is just how much(or low) its improvement will be ?

So if we speaking about adding some device between DI-20HE and PC - what it should be?
Is IFI MICRO IUSB3.0 best choise or not?

All i say is from experience, cleaning up the usb signal improves sound quality.

I use a usbridge signature as a player and although its output i very clean and well clocked, i put the intona isolator between it and the di20he.

One other simple solution is to install a software to send music over ethernet to a bridge. For intance, your pc could run audirvana as playback sw and send the music to a usbridge configured as upnp receiver. Easy to do under Volumio. In this setup, you want you pc electrically isolated from the audio gears so that its inherent noise does not contaminate the audio gears.

 

[REAN1MAT0R]

some interesting measurements for "mini cleaners" here
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...s-of-intona-usb-isolator-for-audio-dacs.2616/

 

[REAN1MAT0R]

One other simple solution is to install a software to send music over ethernet to a bridge. For intance, your pc could run audirvana as playback sw and send the music to a usbridge configured as upnp receiver. Easy to do under Volumio. In this setup, you want you pc electrically isolated from the audio gears so that its inherent noise does not contaminate the audio gears.

I want my computer to see a dac(or di-20) as audio output device in "Sound output devices settings" to play all sound through it not only with some music player

intona isolator between it and the di20he.

Uptone ISO Regen powered by Uptone LPS1.2

Does this devices make same work? IFI nano iGalvanic3.0 is same thing?
I still need to add something like IFI MICRO IUSB3.0 to them before Di-20HE ?
How about IFI MICRO IUSB3.0 + IFI nano iGalvanic3.0 ?
my head is cracking

 

[darren700]

I want my computer to see a dac(or di-20) as audio output device in "Sound output devices settings" to play all sound through it not only with some music player



Does this devices make same work? IFI nano iGalvanic3.0 is same thing?
I still need to add something like IFI MICRO IUSB3.0 to them before Di-20HE ?
How about IFI MICRO IUSB3.0 + IFI nano iGalvanic3.0 ?
my head is cracking

Yes the IFI Nano IGalvanic3.0 is the same type of device as the Uptone ISO Regen.

The ISO Regen is a more widely regarded USB reclocker. I do not see many people talk about the IGalvanic3.0 or IUSB3.0.
The ISO Regen does what both devices above do, but in one box instead of 2.

The ISO Regen allows you to power it with a linear power supply (like the Uptone LPS1.2 i suggested.) this way any dirty power from the computer is completely eliminated on the "Clean side" of the ISO Regen. (note computer power is used for the "Dirty Side" of it)
This clean/dirty separation provides Galvanic Isolation between your DAC and computer.

The ISO Regen uses the really good Crystek CCHD-575 clock to reclock the signal from your computer before it hits your DAC (or DI-20)

It also comes with a USPCB" USB A>B adapter so that you do not need to use a usb cable between the ISO regen and your DAC (or DI-20). with this adapter there is also a toggle switch to shut off the 5V power on the USB line going into your DAC (or DI-20)

Your computer will still see the DAC (or DI-20) as the output device.

See picture below so you can see how it is setup.
Hope this helps

 

[FredA]

some interesting measurements for "mini cleaners" here
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...s-of-intona-usb-isolator-for-audio-dacs.2616/

This site measures with instruments, no one is using his ears, the only instruments that really matters. So although they may have good points once in a while, they don't seem to have any listening skills. It is like a guy who has lost his sense of touch and have his wife measured by a third party instrument, if you see what i mean...

 

[FredA]

I want my computer to see a dac(or di-20) as audio output device in "Sound output devices settings" to play all sound through it not only with some music player

Do both. Use a player in exlusive mode when doing serious listening, go though the mixer otherwise. Normally, when you stop the player, you will have everything (you can then use a more generic player).

I am have a strong preference for the exclusive mode, as one could deduce from my previous post.

But then again, windows does not support upnp nodes i believe.... Sorry..