[FredA]

@Wynnytsky
Hey Victor. Today i took the intona out of the setup. Seems better without it i.e. directly out of the usbrige signature. I noticed the intona had and issue with static electricity, which made me loose connection with the di20he..

My new favorite connection is the eas/ebu using a 1m dh labs d110 wire. Out-of-this world good! However, i have issues with the eternal clock/spdif combination, some periodic glitch. I think my ocxo is not up to par. But i don't mind at all because sound quality is pretty much the same between internal and eternal using spdif in general.

So as it is, the external will only be used with i2s until i get a better one, if i do.

 

[newabc]

I am planning to end the burning-in process of my DI-20 in 1-2 days. It has reached over 500 hours. If I kept feeding the DI-20, I thought I might not need so many burning-in hours. 300 to 400 hours is enough. I found DI-20 and C-2 need some warm-up time after power-on, too.

May I collect all the materials about SPDIF coaxial cables I posted on this thread together someday? I may have time 10 days later.

 

[JaMo]

I am planning to end the burning-in process of my DI-20 in 1-2 days. It has reached over 500 hours

Don't even think of it yet! I am on 930h and Now at first, it has matured and stabilized. Have som more patience. It's worth it.
/Jan

 

[Wynnytsky]

The ISO Regen is a more widely regarded USB reclocker. I do not see many people talk about the IGalvanic3.0 or IUSB3.0.

@REAN1MAT0R I would agree with Darren, though I have yet to hear the ISO regen. Every power or signal filter I've owned seems to solve noise at the expense of volume/dynamics/speed, and these USB accoutrements are no different.
Of the USB stuff I've owned the W4S and Intona had the lightest touch while iFi seemed to over-treat my signal, throwing the baby out with the bathwater. I've owned many wires with a bigger signature than the W4S and Intona. And once upon a time aggressive filtering was what I needed to save me from my own poorly chosen combinations, but as things improve I'm able to back off on the filtering.

Holy smokes I can't believe how much better the DI20HE is going into the wall. Is this unique to the HE? Can someone with both the DI20 and DI20HE quantify these differences?

 

[FredA]

And one more. thing. Last night was my best listening night ever, i don't know how many times i have said this during the last 5-6 years. In a big part, i owe it to Kingwa, who himself must have a great ear to design such fine products. Cheers to him!

 

[darren700]

@REAN1MAT0R I would agree with Darren, though I have yet to hear the ISO regen. Every power or signal filter I've owned seems to solve noise at the expense of volume/dynamics/speed, and these USB accoutrements are no different.
Of the USB stuff I've owned the W4S and Intona had the lightest touch while iFi seemed to over-treat my signal, throwing the baby out with the bathwater. I've owned many wires with a bigger signature than the W4S and Intona. And once upon a time aggressive filtering was what I needed to save me from my own poorly chosen combinations, but as things improve I'm able to back off on the filtering.

Holy smokes I can't believe how much better the DI20HE is going into the wall. Is this unique to the HE? Can someone with both the DI20 and DI20HE quantify these differences?

The ISO Regen has only provided positive benefits in my systems, especially before getting my DI-20's it gave a big improvement with the U16 also.


Maybe try plugging the DI-20HE into one of the high current outputs of your Niagara 1200? Im surprised it is limiting the sound honestly, as when I read reviews about it they claim it does not affect dynamics like other power conditioners.

I have both the DI-20 and DI-20HE.
The DI20 is connected to a HE-350 which is plugged into the wall., I highly doubt that it would sound better into the wall vs the HE-350 in my case as I would lose the power regen of the HE-350

My DI-20HE (still burning in, around 200h now) is plugged into a APC H15 power conditioner.
Note this is in my headphone setup (R1, ACSS. Master 9 powering balanced Audeze LCD-XC)

I just plugged it into the wall instead and didn't notice any difference personally. but keep in mind its not finished burning in and Im using a "monster" 2m power cable when plugged into wall, and audio sensibility impact se power when plugged into the APC H15.
Unfortunately my outlet is too far away from my headphone setup to compare with the same power cable.

Once my DI-20HE is finished burning in I will swap it into my speaker system and see if having the DI-20HE + HE350 is any improvement vs DI-20 + HE-350.
Im hoping there isnt much different so I can keep the DI-20HE in my headphone setup where I dont have a proper power regen.

The DI-20 will then go to my headphone setup and I will do more testing with APC H15 power vs Power outlet in the wall. I do plan on getting a nicer 2m power cable.
I am considering bypassing the APC H15 altogether for my headphone setup and using a Audio Sensibility Impact SE Power Distribution that I already have plugged into the wall.

sorry I know this isnt much help, but I hope to have some answers in the future.

 

[Wynnytsky]

Maybe try plugging the DI-20HE into one of the high current outputs of your Niagara 1200?

The Niagara 1200 has only 2 high current outlets and the tube monoblocks get those. Maybe while I'm getting my electrical worked on I'll upgrade from 1 gang to 2 gang -- until then there's definitely no HE dac in my future.

 

[PLGA]

New update on the DI-20.

With only about 150 hs (I've been on vacations), with its internal clocks, it sounds "clearly" better than the U16.

The realism is freaking me out! The layering of the soundstage, the tone, the texture, the dynamics, everything!

I havent ever heard music like this and Ive listened to a couple of +100k systems and a +200k one. Not even close.

 

[REAN1MAT0R]

Guys many thanks for your participation and support
So
Figuring out the best usb signal transport from PC to DI-20HE by usb:
1. ISO Regen with USPCB A>B Adapter
2. + linear psu UltraCap LPS-1.2
3. with modified DC cable - but i dont know how to choose proper one
or any other linear psu is better/cheaper but not worse ?

Or some other usb isolator is better?
I found some SOTM products but i dont understand if they are for same purpose

There are 10Mhz inputs on R-7HE and DI-20HE
Should I use them or not?
If I should use them how properly connect them?
Should usb isolator have same 10mhz uotput or not?

 

[PLGA]

Guys many thanks for your participation and support
So
Figuring out the best usb signal transport from PC to DI-20HE by usb:
1. ISO Regen with USPCB A>B Adapter
2. + linear psu UltraCap LPS-1.2
3. with modified DC cable - but i dont know how to choose proper one
or any other linear psu is better/cheaper but not worse ?

Or some other usb isolator is better?
I found some SOTM products but i dont understand if they are for same purpose

There are 10Mhz inputs on R-7HE and DI-20HE
Should I use them or not?
If I should use them how properly connect them?
Should usb isolator have same 10mhz uotput or not?

The SOtM SMS-200 Ultra Neo is a bridge and it can be used as a Roon or Audinirvana+ end point. You connect your PC and the SMS-200 to the same home network, via Ethernet cables and a switch, and you comand the SMS-200 from the computer, but the USB signal is sent from the SMS-200 to the DI-20HE or DAC, not from the computer. It sends a MUCH cleaner USB signal (an audiophile one), so the final sound is much better.

The SMS-200 Ultra Neo (wich I have) functions the same way as the regular SMS-200, wich is much cheaper, but worse in quality sound. Another option is the Sonore Ultrarendu, wich is cheaper than the SMS-200 Ultra Neo, and I understand is similar in sound quality.

To run any of them you should buy a Linear Power Supply to get the best out of them. I have a Swagman wich is nice and not too expensive.

The SOtM SMS-200 Ultra Neo or the Sonore Ultrarendu plus a LPS will cost you around 1 to 1.5k plus shipping and import taxes, but considering you triple Audio-gd HE products and their potential, I think is totally worthwile.

 

[REAN1MAT0R]

The SOtM SMS-200 Ultra Neo is a bridge and it can be used as a Roon or Audinirvana+ end point. You connect your PC and the SMS-200 to the same home network, via Ethernet cables and a switch, and you comand the SMS-200 from the computer, but the USB signal is sent from the SMS-200 to the DI-20HE or DAC, not from the computer. It sends a MUCH cleaner USB signal (an audiophile one), so the final sound is much better.

The SMS-200 Ultra Neo (wich I have) functions the same way as the regular SMS-200, wich is much cheaper, but worse in quality sound. Another option is the Sonore Ultrarendu, wich is cheaper than the SMS-200 Ultra Neo, and I understand is similar in sound quality.

To run any of them you should buy a Linear Power Supply to get the best out of them. I have a Swagman wich is nice and not too expensive.

The SOtM SMS-200 Ultra Neo or the Sonore Ultrarendu plus a LPS will cost you around 1 to 1.5k plus shipping and import taxes, but considering you triple Audio-gd HE products and their potential, I think is totally worthwile.

The point of connecting by usb or spdif is that dac will play ALL sounds that computer produces. Including sound in games, watching youtube and so on.
As I understand SOtM SMS-200 is network player only for listening music files from NAS by some configured player(program) and it can not be set as default audio output device for all computer sounds - it can not play sonds from game running on my computer. Right?

 

[PLGA]

The point of connecting by usb or spdif is that dac will play ALL sounds that computer produces. Including sound in games, watching youtube and so on.
As I understand SOtM SMS-200 is network player only for listening music files from NAS by some configured player(program) and it can not be set as default audio output device for all computer sounds - it can not play sonds from game running on my computer. Right?

Yes, you are correct. As far as I know it wont play movies and games from your computer, its a device developed for music.

 

[darren700]

The point of connecting by usb or spdif is that dac will play ALL sounds that computer produces. Including sound in games, watching youtube and so on.
As I understand SOtM SMS-200 is network player only for listening music files from NAS by some configured player(program) and it can not be set as default audio output device for all computer sounds - it can not play sonds from game running on my computer. Right?

There is a way to have the best of both worlds. Use the streamer connected to the DI-20 feeding HDMI, Coax, or Aes to your DAC. Also connect the DAC usb input directly to your computer. Simply change the DAC input to USB for games, YouTube, etc and then change to the Input with DI-20 for serious listening.

 

[Wynnytsky]

There is a way to have the best of both worlds.

In my opinion, given what @REAN1MAT0R wants from audio and where he is now, the best solution is ignoring USB, but his video cards would have to learn to share IO lanes.
As a bonus it also turns out to be the simplest and cheapest (not even a software driver install).

Most of us don't have PCIe slots. But we have lot's of USB ports. Black ones, blue ones, orange ones.
For us to put an ITX computer in a streacom or hdplex case is not easy or cheap, but he crossed that bridge (in spades).

Yes I think this card is overpriced, but one of my USB cables costs twice as much, so that's capitalism.
https://www.pinkfaun.com/shop/bridge/69-4072-i2s-bridge.html

I would start by powering it internally via 4pin molex and take my time choosing the right LPS (Keces P3 doesn't suck)

 

[UsoppNoKami]

There is a way to have the best of both worlds. Use the streamer connected to the DI-20 feeding HDMI, Coax, or Aes to your DAC. Also connect the DAC usb input directly to your computer. Simply change the DAC input to USB for games, YouTube, etc and then change to the Input with DI-20 for serious listening.

+1 this would work well

Network to streamer with USB output to connect with DI-20. Use this for serious music listening sessions.

Computer sees direct USB cable connection to DAC for movies, gaming etc. Eg in Windows, only one Amanero USB device as sound output.

Switch input source between USB and I2S, BNC, etc on the DAC as needed