Not at all. I purchased it around one month ago. I was unaware of the price hike, but to be quite honest, I don't mind. For my situation, I need the ridiculous weight and stability- kids, pets, my own clumsiness, etc. Also the two headphones that will adorn that stand are both greater than 500g each, which added to the justification in my case.
Thanks. I checked camelcamelcamel and the price rises were more incremental than I thought over a period of a few years, but with a big bump this April. Also, the stands are less expensive if you buy directly from Woo Audio. I’m still considering the double holder, and I’m more concerned about space than weight. Is there enough room, i.e. is it wide enough to accomodate two bulky headphones?
As far as I can see, there's four different types of screws accessible on the LCD-X. I'm interested in which ones should be screwed tight, and which ones should not be screwed tight. I found that some were loose today on my LCD-X.
1. Four black screws on the external face of the earcups
Loose or tight? A few of these were a little loose.
2. Hex bolts on the gimbal of the headband attaching to the earcups
Loose or tight? These were already tight.
3. Four black screws on attaching the leather strap to the headband frame
Thanks. I checked camelcamelcamel and the price rises were more incremental than I thought over a period of a few years, but with a big bump this April. Also, the stands are less expensive if you buy directly from Woo Audio. I’m still considering the double holder, and I’m more concerned about space than weight. Is there enough room, i.e. is it wide enough to accomodate two bulky headphones?
Very likely. It makes a significant difference if the screw is loose in terms of the angle of the cups/pads and the weight distribution. You could add some locktite to fix this but it appears audeze does not do this from the factory.
I have loctite 271 which was in a case with an old set of cans. I think that is the correct loctite for the Audeze screws.
Don't locktight the plastic screw on top of the rods as they will break off in future if you have to unscrew those lightweight screws.
I think the main one you want to go at with loctite is the one with the washer under the bottom of the rods...not grill screws or even
4 screws each side over the strap...up to you though on how far you want to use loctite.
I have loctite 271 which was in a case with an old set of cans. I think that is the correct loctite for the Audeze screws.
Don't locktight the plastic screw on top of the rods as they will break off in future if you have to unscrew those lightweight screws.
I think the main one you want to go at with loctite is the one with the washer under the bottom of the rods...not grill screws or even
4 screws each side over the strap...up to you though on how far you want to use loctite.
I'll see how it goes. All the screws that need to be tight are tight. The nylon ones at the top of the rods are just finger-tight. The background to me checking all the screws was that I've been running a number of headphone audio tests over the last week looking out for loose drivers/poor drivers (bass shaker test), channel imbalance, low/high frequency response, spectral flatness, driver matching test, and so on. The LCD-X performed remarkably well compared to my other headphones. Just some barely perceptible 'fluttering' type sound at 10-20Hz on the left earcup got me looking at the screws. The slight flutter on the bass shaker test is no longer audible once the screws were tightened.
If anyone is interested in the headphones tests that I am running and has TIDAL, then here's a link to the tests:
Would the Feliks Audio Elise play nice with the LCD-X? I know the low impedance of the LCD-X may be problematic, but, I don't have enough knowledge regarding amplifier output impedance and headphone impendance dynamics. I will be feeding the LCD-X and ZMF Verite Closed with the tube amp. Currently, I am looking at the ZMF Pendant SE and the Feliks. Looking for something in the 2,500 USD and lower category. Would prefer an OTL, but would settle for a tube hybrid.
Pendent SE looks like direct coupled design hence no issues driving planars. OTL is a bit more tricky and a gamble when driving low impedance planars. Some can handle it and some don’t. Check with manufacture just to make sure. Easy to drive nature of LCDX would suggest that certain OTLs would work with that hp. Question is, how much it will alter LCDX sound signature (especially low fq)? Pendent is a safer bet IMHO. And more versatile. If you’re looking for slightly more euphoric presentation, perhaps new Forge amp designed by Ampsandsound.
Pendent SE looks like direct coupled design hence no issues driving planars. OTL is a bit more tricky and a gamble when driving low impedance planars. Some can handle it and some don’t. Check with manufacture just to make sure. Easy to drive nature of LCDX would suggest that certain OTLs would work with that hp. Question is, how much it will alter LCDX sound signature (especially low fq)? Pendent is a safer bet IMHO. And more versatile. If you’re looking for slightly more euphoric presentation, perhaps new Forge amp designed by Ampsandsound.
I was actually doing a deep dive, looking into various tube amps at around the 2000 USD price point- specifically amps with more clarity that also brought the warm, sweet sound of tubes. The amps I found were the microZOTL MZ2, Ampsandsound Kenzie OG, Pendant SE, and the Elise. I feel like after researching them a bit more, the Forge may have the best balance between clarity and the typical euphonic tube quality. Thanks for the recommendation.
I was actually doing a deep dive, looking into various tube amps at around the 2000 USD price point- specifically amps with more clarity that also brought the warm, sweet sound of tubes. The amps I found were the microZOTL MZ2, Ampsandsound Kenzie OG, Pendant SE, and the Elise. I feel like after researching them a bit more, the Forge may have the best balance between clarity and the typical euphonic tube quality. Thanks for the recommendation.
It’s hard to make that kind of decision without actually having amps of interest side by side, but. I think you are on the right track. And finally, we are talking about tube amps that by nature can be tweaked to taste by so many tube variants.
Personally, I leaning towards more “neutral” tube amp characteristics. But I appreciate amp’s ability to be resolving, transparent yet, being able to easily extrude minute characteristics of various tube types and makes. Sounds like you’re going to have a lots of fun and soon.
I like the La Figaro 339i, it powers the LCD-X 2021 just fine but it is slightly too warm compared to the THX AAA 789 which I prefer to use with the LCD-X. I don't like making the LCD-X any warmer / darker than it already is, even if it's only a slight shift in tonality.
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