[Chefguru]

What did you get? There are Carbon, SANYO, IXY variations.

Sounds like he got the standard kgsshv from Mjolnir Audio since he’s sold out of the regular Carbon and CC.

 

[number1sixerfan]

I haven't experienced this. I'll look for it again, but I do know that the track, our chains, etc. could all impact.. but I've not heard a single instrument placed in two different positions. But again, will look for it again.

Also, for me I don't have the CRBN on the same level of technical ability that I do the 009, Sr1a, TC and Susvara. I have it just a step below. And certainly in comparison to the SGL there is just a huge gap between them. But I do think for a first offering, the CRBN is very good. I think what Audeze attempted to address, was the brightness and leanness of bass that typically turns some people away from stats. If you're in that camp, the CRBN is an excellent option for you. If you haven't tried e-stats at all and are interested in learning what they are about, I would certainly start with the 009 instead.

For me personally, even with the 009 and SGL, which I definitely prefer due to the improved technicalities, the CRBN is still getting decent time because of how smooth it is, while still doing say 85% of what the 009 can do. But definitely if you're coming from the 009 or similar, it may disappoint in some regards.

Just following up here. I'm almost 100% positive that it's the more condensed soundstage/imaging that people are experiencing. There isn't a duplication of instrument placement, but a very, very clear distinction in separation and imaging. (Although, we're probably just all saying the same thing but expressing differently). Very random, but the track I'm on right now (have been listening for this over hours though), James Blunt's "Goodbye My Lover", you can very clearly hear the piano and where it is on the stage positioned to the left out of the left channel on the 009, and consistent with other cans. With the CRBN, the piano blends across more of the entire spectrum and is not separated. Edit--it's more prominent in the left channel and is clear that it's coming from that area, but is more spread cross in comparison to the separation of the 009. This is pretty consistent across tracks.

As I mentioned before it's just a bit more condensed without that pinpoint accuracy of some others. However, the midrange, vocals and density of the music are absolutely amazing.. and I think its greatest strength is the tonality--they just absolutely nailed it. I ended up spending quite a bit of time on these tonight as a result lol

 

[MokhaMark]

What did you get? There are Carbon, SANYO, IXY variations.

Good question, I did not even ask, whatever is default I suppose.

 

[MokhaMark]

Just following up here. I'm almost 100% positive that it's the more condensed soundstage/imaging that people are experiencing. There isn't a duplication of instrument placement, but a very, very clear distinction in separation and imaging. (Although, we're probably just all saying the same thing but expressing differently). Very random, but the track I'm on right now (have been listening for this over hours though), James Blunt's "Goodbye My Lover", you can very clearly hear the piano and where it is on the stage positioned to the left out of the left channel on the 009, and consistent with other cans. With the CRBN, the piano blends across more of the entire spectrum and is not separated. Edit--it's more prominent in the left channel and is clear that it's coming from that area, but is more spread cross in comparison to the separation of the 009. This is pretty consistent across tracks.

As I mentioned before it's just a bit more condensed without that pinpoint accuracy of some others. However, the midrange, vocals and density of the music are absolutely amazing.. and I think its greatest strength is the tonality--they just absolutely nailed it. I ended up spending quite a bit of time on these tonight as a result lol

I do think you may have expressed it much better above than I did! Yes, each individual instrument is taking up more "space". I spent about 6 hours listening yesterday after putting in some Japanese tubes and biasing the amp. I was about to sell the CRBN at a loss after the first day, and have since doubled down with an amp! These are keepers, I think. Some day I'll compare to a STAX and I am open minded that I may prefer STAX for this species of headphone. But for now I am addicted and enjoying listening to Lucile Boulanger play viola da gamba, as if sitting 6 feet in front of her.

 

[VandyMan]

Also, for me I don't have the CRBN on the same level of technical ability that I do the 009, Sr1a, TC and Susvara.

Since I don't see many opinions being offered here, I'll chime in and say I'd take the CRBN over the 009 or TC. (I have no personal experience with the Sr1a or Susvara.) I've already gone into some depth on CRBN vs 009, so see my earlier post if your interested. Vs the TC, which I've only heard at audio shows, I'd take the CRBN, primarily for the better tonality, midrange, and comfort. The extra bass on the TC is a lower priority for me vs the tonality, midrange, detail, and speed of the CRBN.

I'm looking forward to going to CanJam NYC and checking out the Sr1a, new STAX (if it is there), and the Hifiman SGL line. I heard the three Hifiman electrostats at Canjam a few years ago (2019 maybe). Myself and a few others posted here that the Jade was meh, the JR was pretty good, and the SR was not as good as the JR. However, later Hifiman said that the SR amp was broken and I also think they have made silent revisions, so I don't know if I would still stand behind that impression.

 

[VandyMan]

I'll add that for the CRBN vs 009, if the 009 is too bright for you or too bass deficient, the CRBN is an excellent choice. You lose a bit of the "electrostatic sound," but not where it really counts; vocal still sound wonderfully airy when the recording calls for it.

 

[MokhaMark]

I'll add that for the CRBN vs 009, if the 009 is too bright for you or too bass deficient, the CRBN is an excellent choice. You lose a bit of the "electrostatic sound," but not where it really counts; vocal still sound wonderfully airy when the recording calls for it.

Thank you for the info, I will check out your earlier posts for comparisons. I am enjoying the CRBN but trying not to be too critical until I get the Mjolnir amp on my desk. I also put my Raal in its case for a few days so I was not going back and forth, because every time I did, the Raal just leapt up in detail. To be honest, with the CRBN through the 007tii, the Raal has better bass (not that this is a top priority for me either, but for some chamber jazz, the CRBN remains diffuse in the bass).

You mention no personal experience with the SR1a, shoot me a direct message if you'd ever be interested in a trial swap for your 009s. I have Sr1a with Jot R, and importantly the convolution filters that improve the balance IMO. If you have no way to use a filter, it may disappoint in relation to the other great headphones you already have/had. I know this is off topic so just message if of interest.

 

[branislav]

A review, or more like casual impressions just came up...

 

[Jomungur]

I do think you may have expressed it much better above than I did! Yes, each individual instrument is taking up more "space". I spent about 6 hours listening yesterday after putting in some Japanese tubes and biasing the amp. I was about to sell the CRBN at a loss after the first day, and have since doubled down with an amp! These are keepers, I think. Some day I'll compare to a STAX and I am open minded that I may prefer STAX for this species of headphone. But for now I am addicted and enjoying listening to Lucile Boulanger play viola da gamba, as if sitting 6 feet in front of her.

I'm glad you resolved the issue. I, too, have a tube amp (and tube preamp). Estats are so transparent you can easily hear the difference when you change tubes, or even just re-bias the same ones. If you're experimenting, try running your power tubes a little on the colder side bias-wise, you might be surprised at how much clarity it brings with estats.

I still have this cross channel bleed issue with the CRBNs, but it's not a big deal. It does give you a very immersive feel if you are going for that. And not all tracks have the problem.

Maybe the CRBN does play better with solid state amps.

 

[MokhaMark]

I'm glad you resolved the issue. I, too, have a tube amp (and tube preamp). Estats are so transparent you can easily hear the difference when you change tubes, or even just re-bias the same ones. If you're experimenting, try running your power tubes a little on the colder side bias-wise, you might be surprised at how much clarity it brings with estats.

I still have this cross channel bleed issue with the CRBNs, but it's not a big deal. It does give you a very immersive feel if you are going for that. And not all tracks have the problem.

Maybe the CRBN does play better with solid state amps.

I biased the tube sections also and got everything below 1 volt, after a lot of fidgeting. When you say colder side what does that mean? I am a novice at this......In hind sight I wish I had biased the Russian tubes before changing them out to see if it changed. Next time.

I'll know soon enough how the CRBN sound out of an SS amp, already counting the days until the Mjolnir arrives.

 

[BTD1]

When I read one of the posts above about re-biasing tubes on the cold side and Russian tubes vs something else, I have to ask myself why I'm entering into this complicated world of electrostats! I am just overwhelmed trying to figure out what is the right thing to do just to get the most out of the CRBNs. And I thought the "how much power is needed' debate about the Susvaras was over the top! I will be so interested in how the Mjolnir solid state amp performs.

 

[MokhaMark]

When I read one of the posts above about re-biasing tubes on the cold side and Russian tubes vs something else, I have to ask myself why I'm entering into this complicated world of electrostats! I am just overwhelmed trying to figure out what is the right thing to do just to get the most out of the CRBNs. And I thought the "how much power is needed' debate about the Susvaras was over the top! I will be so interested in how the Mjolnir solid state amp performs.

Ha! Yeah, it seems e-stats are not so simple and are arguably the most amp dependent cans out there. I am more willing having had the Raal which also require a dedicated amp, but in that case it can be had new for $800, so not such a big deal. I do not enjoy tube rolling etc. either, so I am happy to be moving onto a solid state amp.

I have learned a lot from the veteran e-stat clan here, I suspect you are reading also. There is literally decades of experience form folks who have been following every iteration of STAX and amplifier. They do not always agree, but you can learn a lot searching and reading in here.

If I remember correctly, you have the iFi, right? If you feel you are not getting the most out of the CRBN yet, then I suppose your choice is to get a dedicated e-stat amp or up the quality of the amp feeding the iFi. It is confusing because some folks insist the iFi with a great amp is fine, and some insist you need a purpose built e-stat amp. I have no informed opinion yet because I tried and failed to buy an iFi. So I went the other route out of necessity. What is crystal clear from all I have read is that a really good amp is necessary with the iFi, and if an e-stat dedicated amp is the route, the top of the line STAX and the CRBN require a good one and the consensus seems to be the run of the mill STAX amps do not cut it. This could be why so many DIY and custom builders are making amps for this species, is that the commercially available amps are at best only adequate. This is just what I've picked up here over the last two weeks, doing what you are, trying to get the most out of the CRBN.

What I can say for myself though, is that this "complicated world of e-stats" is so very worth it as I have found the sound absolutely transformative and I am just scratching the surface.

I'll be sure to report back to you on the Mjolnir after I listen.

 

[BTD1]

Ha! Yeah, it seems e-stats are not so simple and are arguably the most amp dependent cans out there. I am more willing having had the Raal which also require a dedicated amp, but in that case it can be had new for $800, so not such a big deal. I do not enjoy tube rolling etc. either, so I am happy to be moving onto a solid state amp.

I have learned a lot from the veteran e-stat clan here, I suspect you are reading also. There is literally decades of experience form folks who have been following every iteration of STAX and amplifier. They do not always agree, but you can learn a lot searching and reading in here.

If I remember correctly, you have the iFi, right? If you feel you are not getting the most out of the CRBN yet, then I suppose your choice is to get a dedicated e-stat amp or up the quality of the amp feeding the iFi. It is confusing because some folks insist the iFi with a great amp is fine, and some insist you need a purpose built e-stat amp. I have no informed opinion yet because I tried and failed to buy an iFi. So I went the other route out of necessity. What is crystal clear from all I have read is that a really good amp is necessary with the iFi, and if an e-stat dedicated amp is the route, the top of the line STAX and the CRBN require a good one and the consensus seems to be the run of the mill STAX amps do not cut it. This could be why so many DIY and custom builders are making amps for this species, is that the commercially available amps are at best only adequate. This is just what I've picked up here over the last two weeks, doing what you are, trying to get the most out of the CRBN.

What I can say for myself though, is that this "complicated world of e-stats" is so very worth it as I have found the sound absolutely transformative and I am just scratching the surface.

I'll be sure to report back to you on the Mjolnir after I listen.

Very nice summary. I'll look forward to your impressions of the Mjolnir.

 

[Jomungur]

I biased the tube sections also and got everything below 1 volt, after a lot of fidgeting. When you say colder side what does that mean? I am a novice at this......In hind sight I wish I had biased the Russian tubes before changing them out to see if it changed. Next time.

I'll know soon enough how the CRBN sound out of an SS amp, already counting the days until the Mjolnir arrives.

Most important thing- always follow your amp instructions and guidelines, as different amps have different ways of handling bias and tubes. Please note not all tube types need to be biased, it depends on your amp but it's generally only power tubes. I'm assuming you have an adjustable bias amp, or what is technically called "adjustable fixed bias". This just means the bias is fixed, but adjustable by the user usually through a bias potentiometer. I'm assuming yours is easily accessible on the exterior the amp, which is much safer.

Most amps adjust bias through either voltage or current. Voltage is easier, but less accurate. Because you're talking voltage, I'll assume you are adjusting the grid bias voltage (and not current) through a pot or dial on the exterior of the amp. Think of the bias voltage as the "idle voltage", like how your engine is idling when you are not pressing the accelerator. If you set the idle high, then the car will be like a horse chomping at the bit and jump when you hit the accelerator from rest. If you set the idle low, then the car is less responsive and you need more pressure on the accelerator to increase the speed from rest.

The way tubes work, electrons flow from the cathode (negative charge) to the plate (positive charge). The grid is the thing in between. By making the grid more negative relative to the cathode, it slows down the current (because negative charge repels electrons). That is what people mean by biasing something cold, you slow down the electron flow of the tube by making the grid more negative.

The confusing thing is you'll hear references to "negative voltage" and increasing the "negative voltage" of the grid. Negative here the voltage of the grid means relative to the cathode. The amps I've seen where you test bias with a multimeter test use the ground or reference terminal as the grid voltage and the cathode of the tube as the positive terminal. This means a higher number means there is more 'negative voltage' on the grid, which simply means the cathode has a higher voltage (i.e. more positive) than the grid voltage. If the bias is 0 volts, then usually that means the grid voltage is identical to the cathode voltage, and means the grid is not acting as a brake at all so you are running at full flow or "hot" (I wouldn't try and make the grid voltage positive relative to the cathode voltage unless your amp is designed that way, then it will act as an accelerator). On the other hand, if the bias is, say, 10 volts on your multimeter, that would mean the grid is more negative and running "colder". If your amp has a bias readout, you need to see your manual on how to interpret it.

Why does all this matter? Because if you run the tubes a little hot, your amp is super-responsive to voltage swings in the signal and you'll get more distortion but also more acceleration in the sound, so to speak. Some people like that. If you run it too hot, they will redplate (that usually takes a lot though). If you run the tubes a little cold, your amp is bit less responsive but you get more clarity and transparency in the sound. If too cold, it will be lifeless. Estats are really sensitive so if you are getting a bit too much "fuzz" in your headphones from a tube amp, particularly with high frequency sounds like cymbals, hi-hats, etc. I've found you can fix this by biasing the amp a little colder. Side benefit is you also lengthen the life of your power tubes.

Anyway, if this is confusing forget about it! It's just that you can play a lot with your sound by adjusting tube bias if you have the inclination to try it.

 

[Jomungur]

When I read one of the posts above about re-biasing tubes on the cold side and Russian tubes vs something else, I have to ask myself why I'm entering into this complicated world of electrostats! I am just overwhelmed trying to figure out what is the right thing to do just to get the most out of the CRBNs. And I thought the "how much power is needed' debate about the Susvaras was over the top! I will be so interested in how the Mjolnir solid state amp performs.

I wouldn't worry about it! It's only relevant for tube amps, and only some of them at that. Tube amps can be used for regular headphones, too. You can just ignore it- it's just audiophiles are always searching for the holy grail of sound perfection.

As far as estats, well, I think people do all this because they can be worth it! And this is from someone who thought the Susvaras were my end game. But yeah, they're a demanding mistress for sure, I don't think it's for people who just want to plug and play.

I see you are in NYC- if it wasn't for COVID you could just come over and just listen to some electrostats on my tube amp and see what you think. I know how frustrating it is to figure out how they sound because it's not like stores demo them. Maybe sometime in the future.