[smodtactical]

Speaking of the ZMF pad guide, on the main chart it shows (for the Atticus) the Ori being warmer than the Eikon but then when you go to the Atticus page it shows the Eikon being the warmer of the two. I'm sure one of these must be a mistake, so which one is correct?

Ori is warmer / bassier.

 

[Semper HiFi]

I think I figured it out. For each given material, the Eikon pads are actually the warmer of the two. Yet, the pad sonics guide says the Ori is warmer, which is only be true when comparing the Ori lambskin to the Eikon suede (which are the two recommended pads for the Atticus). Eikon suede is more neutral than Ori lambskin which is what the pad sonics guide shows. Seems the material makes more difference than the actual pad (Ori/Eikon).

 

[Bonddam]

Here’s Atticus I modded. I opened three of the ports and applied small squares of dynamat extreme to wood above the ports then used dynamat to close off two ports. Decoupled the baffle from the cup. It’s all reversible. Just wanted bigger subwoofer performance. I had to play with amount of ports to find the bass I wanted it also helped in higher frequencies adding more sparkle. It was tough getting bass equal on both sides going through trying to use a Polly fill on top of the fiberglass square. In the end just fiber glass was used. I wanted something like TH900’s bass. Increase in ports from 2 to 3 fully open helped the roll off go further down. Now trying different pads but like how it has turned out.

 

[Magol79]

Here’s Atticus I modded. I opened three of the ports and applied small squares of dynamat extreme to wood above the ports then used dynamat to close off two ports. Decoupled the baffle from the cup. It’s all reversible. Just wanted bigger subwoofer performance. I had to play with amount of ports to find the bass I wanted it also helped in higher frequencies adding more sparkle. It was tough getting bass equal on both sides going through trying to use a Polly fill on top of the fiberglass square. In the end just fiber glass was used. I wanted something like TH900’s bass. Increase in ports from 2 to 3 fully open helped the roll off go further down. Now trying different pads but like how it has turned out.

What wood is that and how much does your set weigh? Mg or Alu chassis?

 

[Bonddam]

What wood is that and how much does your set weigh? Mg or Alu chassis?

Burmese Paduak. The weight I don’t know. Does not feel heavy when comparing to Audeze, but could be close.

 

[whirlwind]

Here’s Atticus I modded. I opened three of the ports and applied small squares of dynamat extreme to wood above the ports then used dynamat to close off two ports. Decoupled the baffle from the cup. It’s all reversible. Just wanted bigger subwoofer performance. I had to play with amount of ports to find the bass I wanted it also helped in higher frequencies adding more sparkle. It was tough getting bass equal on both sides going through trying to use a Polly fill on top of the fiberglass square. In the end just fiber glass was used. I wanted something like TH900’s bass. Increase in ports from 2 to 3 fully open helped the roll off go further down. Now trying different pads but like how it has turned out.

So, is this modded bass like the TH900 ?

 

[Bonddam]

So, is this modded bass like the TH900 ?

No not the same it’s more even and doesn’t sound boomy. There’s two port holes on the baffle and I closed the front port. Next I fully opened the top and bottom ports and closed off the remaining in dynamat extreme and applied dynamat extreme over the other ports. Then there is a foam insert behind the speaker which was removed. I kept the yellow fiberglass and added Acousta stuf to the cup.

Changes more crystaline treble not over exaggerated and stronger bass impact. All it was is playing with what I had to work with changing or removing stuff. It’s easy to change back. The one thing that is better then foam dampening is dynamat as it’s an asphalt material is more absorbing.

Last finding the right pads which even means going out of ZMF pads but like using zmf on zmf more natural.

I’m doing two other headphones from Fostex a T60RP and TH610.
Just fun, and T60RP will be painted in automotive paint.
Reason I’m into doing this is because I was into modifying cars for sound systems. One particular was pushing the speakers very far forward by cutting away metal in foot well and installing steal box’s on the outside. Got old and lazy a careless for car audio anymore but that modification bug is hard to get rid of.

I will not do anything to my VC and VO epoxy resin. Headphones above 1800 bucks or ones that will not be able to put back to stock form I will not touch unless some one like Lawton makes replacement parts.
All original parts are in a baggy to put back.

 

[Bonddam]

On your units you have felt material that is glued above the two ports so it’s not fully open so it push close but when driver move up it must get the air to allow the driver to full go up the foam under the driver is applying resistance but seems to hinder sparkly treble. You still keep the same non fatiguing upper mids and treble bass is more sub and mid bass with a grunt added. This wouldn’t be for acoustic music I revamped it for edm my mason genre of electronic produced music. It doesn’t sound v shaped. I would need a analyzer to see the frequency graph to be 100% sure. I’m not knowledgeable in what Zach does but I can have fun and get something more too my liking and have my amazing looking headphone. I’d like to mod an Eikon and see if that headphone isn’t really using the ports like the Atticus stock tuning.

 

[Bonddam]

Last one I’m controlling the speaker with Acousta Stuf polly fill. It’s not perfect but I’m satisfied with how it turned out. I also got my TH610 modded removing material and adding Acousta Stuf and increasing the stock ports. There was a foam material I removed that on TH900 it’s a paper material.

All mods start by removing one thing at a time and listen for good or bad changes. You just can’t do everything at once so very time consuming.

My Atticus still has the ZMF stock tonality just added bass grumble and some increased treble clarity.

Sorry for so many posts, I don’t do one post because ideas are not all concrete at once.

 

[Grothmog]

Hello I'm looking for DAC recommendation for Atticus + WA2 combo. I listen mostly to classic rock /metal (think Queen, Metalllica). I would prefer more budget friendly one (least expensive that won't hołd this combo back)

 

[Bonddam]

Hello I'm looking for DAC recommendation for Atticus + WA2 combo. I listen mostly to classic rock /metal (think Queen, Metalllica). I would prefer more budget friendly one (least expensive that won't hołd this combo back)

Analytical or musical DAC?

 

[Pharmaboy]

Analytical or musical DAC?

smart question!

 

[erics75]

Hello I'm looking for DAC recommendation for Atticus + WA2 combo. I listen mostly to classic rock /metal (think Queen, Metalllica). I would prefer more budget friendly one (least expensive that won't hołd this combo back)

What's your budget? If you can swing a Schiit Bifrost 2, IMO that's the best dac you'll find until you hit 4 figure prices.

 

[jonathan c]

Hello I'm looking for DAC recommendation for Atticus + WA2 combo. I listen mostly to classic rock /metal (think Queen, Metalllica). I would prefer more budget friendly one (least expensive that won't hołd this combo back)

~ First, congratulations on a ‘boffo’ combination! I have a few ZMF and the Woo WA2 also.
~ For a DAC, you can ‘go’ R2R (natural soundstage, attack & decay of notes / chords) or sigma-delta chip (‘technicolour’, ultra-detail, tendency to ‘etch’). What is your DAC budget?
~ On the R2R side, I suggest the Denafrips Ares II (app $800 USD) and the Denafrips Pontus II (app $1680 USD) from Vinshine Audio (Singapore). Within the U.S., I suggest the Schiit Bifrost 2 ($699 USD) and the Gungnir ($1299 USD). These feature the Schiit ‘Multibit’ topology.
~ I wish that I could offer a few ideas on sigma-delta chip DACs: I just have not owned one for a few years.

 

[Grothmog]

~ First, congratulations on a ‘boffo’ combination! I have a few ZMF and the Woo WA2 also.
~ For a DAC, you can ‘go’ R2R (natural soundstage, attack & decay of notes / chords) or sigma-delta chip (‘technicolour’, ultra-detail, tendency to ‘etch’). What is your DAC budget?
~ On the R2R side, I suggest the Denafrips Ares II (app $800 USD) and the Denafrips Pontus II (app $1680 USD) from Vinshine Audio (Singapore). Within the U.S., I suggest the Schiit Bifrost 2 ($699 USD) and the Gungnir ($1299 USD). These feature the Schiit ‘Multibit’ topology.
~ I wish that I could offer a few ideas on sigma-delta chip DACs: I just have not owned one for a few years.

I'm from Europe - Schiit is hardly avaliable. As for budget - Denafrips Ares II is maximum push.