[mihaiil]

Really useful thread, ramchandra, thank you so much for sharing with us. I have  few quick questions. I'm using only the subwoofer of the Z5500's system with "DIY bypass control" cable so I don't have the control pod neither the full-range speakers. My first question is, if I  change the two opamps in the sub, would I be able to hear the difference in the sound (I guess yes?). The second question is can I completely remove the two sub's opamps and replace them with film capacitors and if yes, the third question is which would be better, new opamps or film capacitors?

1.  

 

[ramachandra]

You are welcome.
"if I  change the two opamps in the sub, would I be able to hear the difference in the sound (I guess yes?)" Correct. You will get a clean, integrated bass, no more buzz.
"can I completely remove the two sub's opamps and replace them with film capacitors" No. This OpAmps cut the signal in half, and the two TDA Amps in bridged mode get a different part. After the amplification the signal is put together again. A cost + energy efficient way to drive the Sub. (In the other positions the coming signal set back and re-amplified to the same level. That's why capacitors can replace them.)

 

[mihaiil]

Thank you so much, I'm ordering the parts. I also did the mod for my XtremeMusic by your instructions and I'm very happy with the results. Thank you so much again, I appreciate what you are doing.

 

[Kostas7GTR]

Hello,
 
I tried the mod on  my z5500 also by first replacing the op-amps.
I first replaced the rear speaker stock with OPA1602AID and i reassempled and check if everything was working fine.
It was working ok so i removed the 4 remaining stock op-amps and replaced them with OPA1602AID. Now i have a problem... My soldering skills are exelent and the amps seems they were soldered from factory, amps are on the right direction but when i try to test some music the sub does some sounds that shouldnt. If i test each channel seems to be working ok but the sub channel seems to do some "boom" when not needed. So i replaced the new amps and put back the old ones to check if something is wrong and i have the same problem.. Any ideas ?

 

[ramachandra]

Thoughts: If the soldering is checked OK by instrument, no pad is missing, if the board was not removed probably some SMD component got too much heat. Or there is a drop or fragment of solder somewhere. Or while using a good old fashioned soldering gun the current flown on an unexpected path on the board.
If one of the OpAmps are removed half of the sound remain and will help to narrow down the area of the problem.  

 

[Kostas7GTR]

Hello,
Thanks for the answer, first i have to say i got two z5500 systems.
I tried to mod the first one as i wrote but when i changed the op-amps on the sub i start getting troubles.
I have to say i have a Hakko ESD safe station and my soldering/desolddering was done with quickalloy, amtech flux, i was "grounded" wearing gloves and it was done on 250c with good quality flux (i touched each of the op-amp legs for 1 sec max)
So when i changed the last two sub op-amps on my first Z5500 and plug it back again it start doing boom boom you know like interference cracking noise so i turned it of unplugged it and inspected again.
Cleaned everything checked for small solder balls that might have dropped but nothing. So i cleaned up removed the op-amps reinstalled new ones with same result. Then i desoldered and removed them and had sub channel ofc "dead" but everything else worked ok. Then i reinstalled the stock op-amps that seem to work so i thought that the new ones were faulty either i caused them problem while i did my best not to.
Then i removed those stock that worked and reinstalled again brand new ones but had same result... so i gave up on that system.
Then i took my second z5500 system, i removed the last two op-amps that seemed not to work on my first Z5500 and installed them on 2nd sysytem one by one and guess what op-amps were fine...
After modding the whole 5 op-amps i tested the system for a day and it was working without a prob.
Next day i replaced all the caps with elna and Nichicon and tested the system for two days.
I can say so far difference on sound was HUGE !!! Bass was awesome not boomy like before but fast and accurate. Also my "analog" input game me good sound and my volume of analog part was on pair with the optical. Before i had 4+ lines on analog to get same volume level as i had on 2 lines on the optical.
Today i modded and replaced the caps on the pod but in the end i run into troubles ...
All caps were installed without any problem, i run the system for 2h+ and then my rear speakers start giving me interference... even when not playing anything. It was working fine. The 6 caps were moved in front so they dont cause trouble and all others didnt hit any plastic or something. Anyway  after 3+ of cleaning removing bla bla bla i got pissed and installed the other pod i had and i will check it later. Dunno what might caused the problem but not i got a pair of modded pod that does interference and a sub that does the same. The other system is working fine and im enjoying it atm
 
Here are some pics of the op-amp i installed:
 
https://i.gyazo.com/ec48ea9be29e02d2aebee6e0a15b02a4.jpg
 
And one inside the sub with changed caps and op-amps
 
https://i.gyazo.com/fd71eb297e47413623f6f33b30070193.jpg
 
Hope i find whats wrong with both sub and pod to make my second z55000 working again...

 

[ramachandra]

Just by looking the pictures you obviously work like a pro, and know what to use for the job.
I spotted some differences what I have never tried, and maybe the source of the problem. I had only the two main filters on wires in the first mod and still in that way years later, and giving no trouble since. I never used the 4700uF cap the same way. If you check back around page 17, scratje built a nice capacitor holder for his older version of Z. Later he complained about some distortion and he had to make changes. To keep the story short, the length of this wires possibly play a role. They more likely picking up radio garbage, the main filters less effective to eliminate the transformer's noise, and the regulators need capacitors close as possible in order to function. The LM2172 regulator doesn't have any small electrolyte beside, unlike the the +-18V regulators. It may have an effect on the job it does + produce more heat to keep up whit the needs.
The other tiny detail is, I was using small value film and electrolytes on the main filters, and this caps adjust quicker to the changes. Perhaps I run into complication without them.

 

[Kostas7GTR]

Hello,
Thanks for the good words
Lets talk about the probelm i faced today with the control pod.
I didn't take pictures to show you how i placed the caps but i can tell you they were percect arranged and soldered.
I understand what you say about the 4700 cap but this Nichicon was very fat and there was no way to put him on his original position.
Also i 3d printed a base as well to put them more close but in the end because the main filters are like 8cm tall i ended moving them on the sub and the 4700cap as well.
I can say this can cause problems but atm my original control pod from the 1st z5500 unit works like a charm while the 2nd control pod that i mod today with the Elna caps worked for 2-3h and then the rear speakers only when im on analog input start do some cracking noise even when there is nothing plugged it and even when i power-cycle the system and just turn it on so i guess some cap gone bad or something wrong on that op-amp - cap circuit.
I will check tomorrow to see if i find anything, atm i plug my 1st systems unmodded control pod and i have no problem at all.
I will check the caps for short circuits and measure their capacity.
If problem is gone and i will find faulty cap i will reorder and replace but its like tha same problem i have with the 1st z5500 sub (that happened when i changed the op-amps) and now its on rear speakers (and i know its caused by the control pod i modded).
If you have anything to suggest about the pod im open to suggestions and since i don't have spare new caps i will remove them all check if i have the same problem.

 

[dogchainx]

Great thread!  Wondering if someone can help me with no sound on my system.Lots of information, but I'm not sure where to start. I have a z5500 subwoofer that stopped working on me. Its not the POD, as I have three pods now and all work with my other Z5500 subwoofer.  I opened up the dead z5500 subwoofer and couldn't smell or see anything wrong. No apparently bad caps or dead ICs.  
 
Here's what works and what doesnt:
 
-Pod turns on
-Fuse is good
-No speaker, or subwoofer "TEST" sounds work.  Every speaker does not work.
-Can send sound signal to the pod from the computer, and hook up earphones that'll give sound.
 
So the woofer can turn on the POD, but can not hear anything from the speakers, though hooking up headphones to the POD can give a sound signal. And those three pods all work with another z5500 system woofer.
 
Is there a simple one or two  caps that would probably be the cause for the subwoofer not to respond that I could replace?  
 
I see that there's those two large capacitors, then the other small one on the subwoofer board (which is for the pod?)   
 
Any help would be appreciated.

 

[ramachandra]

Use a multi meter. Probably you will not find +18V and -18V on the D-Sub pins because one or both of 78M18 and 79M18 regulators are dead, or maybe one electrolyte cap failed in short near by. Or damaged trough hole current limiter resistor beside.
If you are really short on luck, there are few dead OpAms on the panel to replace as the result of regulator failure. 40% of the boards I bought to mod&repair in the past had this kind of problems. Images on post 83 and more info on the page.

 

[z5500 digital]

With the holidays )
By year-end received a "Creative audigy RX / 5".
The difference compared to the built in sound is huge.
Read more about this map can be found on our local forum.
http://forum.ixbt.com/topic.cgi?id=12:54830.
I'm willing to do a modification of the "Z-5500".
I use a "direct" connection.
Please tell me.
I need 9 x OPA1602AID and 2 x OPA228P (or 4 x OPA228P) ?

 

[ramachandra]

I think 4pcs OPA1602AID all you need for the Audigy RX.
Inside the Sub: Use a pair OPA1602AID for the Sub woofer. The rest can be 3pcs OPA1602AID, or better if you use 5pcs 0.47uF film capacitors.
Inside the Pod: Use 6pcs OPA1602AID.

 

[z5500 digital]

Первое, что я хочу, чтобы изменить Z-5500.
 
Я правильно понимаю?
Для суб вы рекомендовали заменить операционный усилитель на "Wima MKP 0.47uf 63V"?

 

[ramachandra]

The WIMA MKP certainly do the job, but you may find the bigger axial films more transparent sounding. I was using K73-16 and K73-11 63V in this positions from eBay.

 

[z5500 digital]

Such hard to find.
Tell me please.
I need these?
 
1 x Elna Kenwood 4700uF 75V (or Elna Kenwood 4700uF 71V)
2 x Elna Denon 10000uF 50V