[Cmiky]

Additions!
I made the third mode!

 

[z5500 digital]

I heard a clap near the diode bridge.
But I'm not sure about this, the radiator is screwed.
 
The control panel works and turns on.
The buzz is heard from the subwoofer.
I did not dare to reproduce the sound.
 
I dismantled the subwoofer.
I removed the center channel cable.
I replaced the internal wires for the front two channels and the subwoofer.
I had to enlarge the hole for the wire to 2 mm.

 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
I had to spend a lot of time.
Soldering was of very poor quality.
Wires a little loose.
I think the problem is in them.
 
I redid the work several times.
In addition, I used a bad soldering iron (GJ907) from China.
 
I found a message about rivets.
http://www.head-fi.org/t/657715/almis-logitech-z-5500-mod-high-end-upgrade-for-the-speaker-system/315#post_12072214
I want to try the same thing or find another way for reliable soldering.
Where should I start the test?
 
UPD :
Temporarily removed the wires of the subwoofer.
 
I checked the satellites.
 
Two news, bad and good.
 
The left channel is silent.
The right channel plays =)
 
UPD2 :
Another good news.
The left channel is working.
 
The problem was in bad contact.
I'll try to do better when the solder comes from the store.
 
Now I want to make a subwoofer.
Tell me please.
Does the "R701" have a thin copper leg that goes to the negative wire (WA700)?

I covered it with a layer of solder.
 
When I first soldered the wires, I saw this leg from "R701", but did not attach any importance to it.
The second time, I tried to solder the wire to this leg from "R701".
 
Which option is correct?

 

[z5500 digital]

I increased the holes for the wires.
Now I can insert a 2mm wire.
 
But there were borders of the printed tracks that I damaged.
If you insert a wire, a short circuit occurs.
 
The edges of the holes I insulate with varnish.
The end of the wire (green cross) is soldered to the nearest point, the negative leg of the capacitor is 50v 22uf (red cross).
The remaining elements (the pink cross), I connect by pieces of wire with a green cross.
 
Tell me please.
Are there any errors in my scheme?
 

 
original photo:

 

[Bagheera]

Hello! I would like to attempt this mod and am currently preparing to order the components I need.
 
I am likely not going to do the full mod though - will I get a pretty decent result by replacing only the following?

1. OpAmps (both in the control pod & the subwoofer)
2. 22uF & 47uF capacitors (in the subwoofer)

 
And just to make sure I understand everything correctly, I will need the following parts:

1. 13x 22uF 50V Elna Silmic II
2. 12x 47UF 50V Elna Silmic II
3. 11x OPA1602AID or OPA1612AID OpAmp (likely OPA1612AID, I can't find OPA1602AID for as good a price on eBay)

 
Is all of this correct?
 
This will be my first time modifying audio equipment, though I've prior experience in soldering, I would feel more comfortable limiting my mod to the above as a start.
 
 
 

 

[LeWidget]

Hi Guys,

Newbi here to the forums, electronics and anything Audio related. Came across this Topic and must say, wow!, such a fantastic write up, Im very tempted to make these mods.. which brings me to my question.

I have 2x Z-5500 units...

1st being my primary unit, works fine, PID R938 (control pod), and R834 for other parts (control pod was replaced under warranty many years ago).

2nd unit, having an issue with the centre speaker, its' PID is R710.

With the 2nd unit, no audio comes out of the Centre speaker channel. When I play music or run the 'test', all other speakers and bass work except the centre speaker. I've connected the speaker and the control pod to my primary Z-5500 to help rule them out and they both work fine.

I've also tested the speaker cable, that too seems fine... so it leads me to believe there something wrong with the centre speaker output/circuit etc.., within the sub itself... but Id on't really know where to start looking.

I opened it up and took a pic, but a quick visual, everything looks ok (i'll have another closer look when I get a chance)

Unfortunately I can't post pics (yet).. possibly due to being a newbi and this being my 1st post(?)

http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af101/Widget1983/Electronics/z5500%20wireing%20labeled_zpsqpztgdcy.jpg


Thoughts and suggestions ?

Thanks in advance

[EDIT] Looks like 1x of the 4x TDA7294 IC's has gone walkabout. Going to order one in to replace, will see how that goes.

 

[ramachandra]

z5500 digital
"Which option is correct?" The few old photos I have is useless, no Z amplifier board around to check.
"Are there any errors in my scheme?" If you connected all the pins marked with X together in the square, that should work.
 
Bagheera
"Is all of this correct?" Correct, but do the third mod instead. Lower cost & risk, and give you better result.

 

[z5500 digital]

ramachandra
I'm worried about the back of the board.
I saw there a resistor with a 34C marking.
From him there was a path, thinner than other elements.
I applied solder on top to increase contact, because it was very thin.
I'm not sure that this resistor should connect to the wire.
I'm trying to compare with datasheet, but I do not have enough experience.
Could you tell me?
 
http://www.joyta.ru/uploads/2014/10/mikrosxema-usilitel-tda7294-opisanie-m.gif
 
Hole for negative wire.
 


 
upd:
 
I think I understand.
Wire contact with a resistor 34C should be.
After the resistor there is an inverted input (2 legs on the circuit).
=)
 
upd2:
 
I now have 2 questions.
 
1. How to remove the transformer?
Found inside the mount, unscrewed the bolt.
On the outside of the subwoofer there is a mount, but I could not open it.
I've seen instructions before, but now I can not find it.
 
2. What could explode?
About a month ago, after soldering the wires, during power-up, I heard cotton.
Slightly louder than a blister film burst.
Visual inspection did not work.
 
upd3:
 
I connected everything according to the scheme.
When switched on, I heard a loud buzz about 100 Hz.
After 2-3 seconds turned off.
 
What should I check first?

 

[ramachandra]

"What should I check first?" First you should check who is able to help you there with instruments and experience.  I'm not writing this to discourage you, I want you to able to complete the mod. My ability to help is limited from here.

 

[dragoscojan]

Hello everybody! I'm in need of some help if any of you is kind enough to aid me.

I want to add a small fan to the back of the control pod of my Z5500, but i want to power it directly from the pod itself. I'd also want the fan to turn on and off when i turn the pod on and off. In other words, i need a 5V and Gnd point on the pcb of the control pod that gets powered only when the pod is turned on, and not in standby.

Does anybody here can supply me with a photo of the PCB indicating such a point where i can solder my fan wires?

 

[Abdiel]

Hi guys!
I was not around for several years.
I see modding continues till this day. Great.

Anyways, I found a way how to deal with crossover frequency, and some other things...but it would be an expensive and time consuming path to take.

I still have some Z-5500 control pods at home which I bought in 2013, some are working and will go on ebay and some need repairing.
As I pulled those pods from the box to test them, I remembered this site and people who mod Z-5500, and I also remembered why Z-5500 were bad and why I gave up on modding them.

As several years passed, I googled if someone actually did hack the control pod. Found nothing new.
Searching further for possible solutions brought me to one IC which could change this, STA310. Unlike CS494003 which needs custom programming, STA310 has Dolby Digital and DTS decoding already in it, you just need to control it via I2C. STA310 is an obsolete part and it's hard to get your hands on it, but it could be done. I'm still waiting for some quotes so I may buy few pieces.
Since STA310 is not quite well documented, it's datasheet is in preliminary state, I googled if someone actually did use it for decoding, and I found 2 implementations on http://ep.com.pl/. Just search for DD or DTS decoder and you'll find them.

So basically, one could:
- use CS42526 for inputs (adding up to 8 optical/coaxial inputs, and one analog input)
- use STA310 for DD/DTS decoder (it has a master volume control, bass management(YAAAY!), down-mix to 2 channels...)
- use PCM1680 as DAC from STA310
- use NJW1150 for additional per channel volume control (it also has bass/treble controls for 2 channels which could be used)
...and remake the entire control pod to suit your needs.
Addition to that, one could add USB input and make a control pod on steroids.

It would take several months to complete, it's not an easy task, but the end reward would be very satisfactory, at least for those who still have Z-5500 systems.
I might take this endeavor if I source some STA310, but do note that DD and DTS are kind of old formats, there are new like DD Plus and DTS-HD to name the few, so this would be simply for educational purposes, it has no value in long term since DD and DTS are obsolete.

While searching for STA310, another option which came to mind is using ffmpeg(has DD Plus) in raspberry pi(or something similar) but that's whole another issue.

Anyways, if this info helps someone in any way, great.
Good luck with modding.

 

[ngen33r]

I would like to help with this. I have many broken control pods to play with. Also is there no way to contact cirrus logic to get a copy of the software to modify the settings? We paid for the product which included the licensing. We should be allowed to modify the settings.
I know a development kit is available. https://www.cirrus.com/products/cs49400x/ under the software section. The eval kit would have everything we need to modify the settings. We just need to find a way to get the eval kit.

http://manualzz.com/doc/6567978/cdb49400-evaluation-board-for-cs49400-family-dsp

 

[Chris2017]

Hello ramachandra,

thank you for your great work to improve the Z-5500!

I have read through your whole write-up but I'm not quite confident I understood everything correctly. I'm fairly skilled with electronics and soldering but completely new to audio electronics.

So long story short, basically I'd like to take on your "Third Mod" but additionally change the OpAmps in the ControlPod and the main filter caps.
As far as I believe to understand I need to order the following parts:

13x 22µF 50V Elna Silmic II("Addon", parallel to the electrolytic caps in the sub)
8x OPA1602AID (6pcs for the control pod analog+digital and 2pcs for the sub as 3 OpAmps are replaced by capacitors)
7x 220nF 63V axial film capacitor
6x 47µF 50V Elna Silmic II
5x 0.47uF 63V axial film capacitor
2x 50V 10000µF Nichicon KG,FW or KA series (Main filter caps)
1x 4700µF Nichicon KG, FW or KA series (Main filter caps)
1x 10µF 50V Elna Silmic II

Yet, I'm afraid I still have some questions:

1. In the last section of the Third Mod, you say you used Nichicon KA for the pod. So modifying the pod is still part of the Third Mod and I will need all the capacitors for the pod too? So basically doing the second Mod?
2. Which 0.47µF film capacitors do you recommend for replacing the sub's OpAmps with?
3. May I kindly ask wether it's possible to get a high-res image of the finished third mod with labeling of all the changed parts like you already provided for the first mod?

I'm sorry to bother you with all those questions, any answer is much appreciated!

 

[ravennoir]

Hi Everyone,

I just got a Z5500 from a friend, but it has a issue with the Sub. All the Speakers and Control Pod work fine, just the sub doesnt make any noise

I popped it open and couldnt see anything blown or disconnected

Any tips on troubleshooting what has gone, and if its repairable

Thanks

 

[DrunkenPL]

Hello everyone!
First of all I was amazed how well this mod had been investigated
I alteady bought all of the sub capacitors and OpAmps from TI. I proceed with the mod but it turned out that probably I am missing one, small open-end wrench to unscrew two screws that holds the PCB in those black radiator rails.
Still I wanted to ask you for advice on how to get the PCB safely or just description of next steps that you take to take it out of those radiator rails?

 

[Nilski]

Nearly 6 years later I’m doing this mod. I have 4 Z5500 and 4 Chromecast Audio devices to do multiroom audio.
I have done the 3rd mod on the sub. Still waiting for the big caps to finish it. Then I’ll compare them. So far I didn’t notice much difference. What I hope will help is putting passive coolers on the chips in the pods.
Next what I want to do is get 5V from the pod to power the Chromecasts and I’m thinking of putting in a raspberry pi to control the pods via wifi if I can decrypt the Infra red signals..
I wish I could replace the pod all together with raspberry pi but 5.1 multiroom audio isn’t common