[dstarr3]

As far as I know and which has been confirmed by 1more and users alike, all the silver ones are with the graphene driver and the gold ones come with the titanium driver.

Is one preferred over the other?

 

[aceedburn]

Is one preferred over the other?

as sound preference is subjective, it depends on the listener really. But i have the silver graphene driver version and have also tried the gold titanium driver version. The main difference is in the bass reproduction. Graphene driver produces a firmer yet deeper bass and slightly better clarity and soundstage over the titanium version. Overall sound signature remains pretty much the same. The graphene version is a more refined listening experience, less boomy and more resolute.

 

[Thuckingkeyboard]

as sound preference is subjective, it depends on the listener really. But i have the silver graphene driver version and have also tried the gold titanium driver version. The main difference is in the bass reproduction. Graphene driver produces a firmer yet deeper bass and slightly better clarity and soundstage over the titanium version. Overall sound signature remains pretty much the same. The graphene version is a more refined listening experience, less boomy and more resolute.

Turns out, they have updated the drivers even in the gold ones, so mine has the graphene drivers!

 

[Thuckingkeyboard]

Fellow H1707 fans, I just finished a mod that some of you may be interested in.

This one doesn't mod anything sound related, but rather something that has bothered me since the very 1st time I saw pictures of the H1707 - the grille. To me it looks like a gaudy aftermarket car rim. I know 1More was trying to be "bold" with the design (as well as protect the plexiglass window), and I applaud them for the effort. But it just never did anything for me, and I prefer a more traditional look. So I thought it was time to go ahead and fix that.

I have always thought the Grado grilles were sexy as heck, so I decided to give the H1707 the same treatment. The H1707 still remains a closed design however - I left the plexiglass window 100% intact despite it looking like an open design. The grilles are purely a cosmetic mod.

I actually did 2 different grille configurations:

1. My silver H1707 received a stainless steel grille. The material cost me under $3usd, and is available in a variety of sizes (ie how fine or coarse the mesh is). The stainless mesh comes as a sheet, so it has to be cut to the proper size/shape.

2. The gold H1707 I gave my brother received a more traditional/subdued black grille (which he thought better offset the flashier gold/copper color). Those grilles cost under $2usd, and come ready-to-go (ie drop right in), as they are made for a 1" tweeter. It's the same grilles I've used on countless other headphone mods (open-converted Philips SHL3300, Bluedio T2, Meizu HD50, and Akai Project 50X).

There is a recess machined into the back side of the stock trim ring, and it is important to make sure whatever grille material is used fits unto the recess. The trim ring must sit flush against the plexiglass window to ensure it seals properly.

So without further ado (click photos for larger version):

The before shot (or as I call it, "rollin' on dubs"):



Removing the grilles:



Delete the center 'wheel' section:



Grille version #1 (Gold H1707 and black grille):




Grille version #2 (Silver H1707 w/stainless 'Grado' grilles. Now that's what I'm talking about!!):



So what's it look like when you reverse the grille configurations?

Silver H1707 w/black grille:



Gold H1707 w/stainless 'Grado' grilles (damn that looks nice too!):



Finally, either grille can be painted any color of the rainbow. I may paint the stainless grilles gunmetal or black, making it look like the Fidelio X2. Or maybe a bronze or copper color would look nice too.

Anyways, enjoy!

Does anyone know how to "delete the center wheel" or to separate the two parts? I've been wanting to try this grille mod but I'm not sure how Slater achieved this cuz it looks like they're manufactured in one piece, not 2 separate pieces.

 

[Rundas]

Hello,
I have an issue.
With my triple driver silver model.

I looove the sound of this headphones but I have a issue.
There is a moving part inside the left Pads of my Headphones.
And when there is deep bass I can hear this things moving inside and it's very annoying.
I already order a new one that I received today and I have the exact same Issue.
I'm very disapointed.
And wanted to know if this problem is know inside the community ?

Is there an easy fix about this ?

 

[Rundas]

Hello,
I have an issue.
With my triple driver silver model.

I looove the sound of this headphones but I have a issue.
There is a moving part inside the left Pads of my Headphones.
And when there is deep bass I can hear this things moving inside and it's very annoying.
I already order a new one that I received today and I have the exact same Issue.
I'm very disapointed.
And wanted to know if this problem is know inside the community ?

Is there an easy fix about this ?

Well I found on previous post that the issue can be cause by the Glass and after touching the glass of my 2 headset with a pen the problem is all gone.
Don't know what was the exact cause because the glass doesn't seems to have move a lot. but i'm happy now .
Thanks

 

[theMUKe]

Hello,
I have an issue.
With my triple driver silver model.

I looove the sound of this headphones but I have a issue.
There is a moving part inside the left Pads of my Headphones.
And when there is deep bass I can hear this things moving inside and it's very annoying.
I already order a new one that I received today and I have the exact same Issue.
I'm very disapointed.
And wanted to know if this problem is know inside the community ?

Is there an easy fix about this ?

I noticed the same issue on mine (silver model). I tried to look into it but did not get very far:

After screwing everything together again I could not notice the deep humming sound again. Tested with same setup and same track.

Maybe some screws were slightly loose before… although I did not notice anything when unscrewing.

Other option could be that the glass was slightly deplaced, as indicated in the post before. But again, everything looked tight when I unscrewed.
So overall I’m not sure where that humming sound came from but at least it seems gone now.

 

[aceedburn]

Over the last few weeks, I've been refining my testing with various pads, and wanted to share the results of the pad I have finally settled on.

After additional testing, I ended not being crazy about just slipping new pads over the stock cups (as seen here):

Spoiler

The fit was just too loose to provide a tight enough seal, and bass suffered as a result.

Therefore, I have concentrated my recent testing on pads that reuse the stock plastic mounting ring. This retains the clip mounting system, as well as the stock foam ring, providing a stock-like seal and no loss of bass.

I settled on an oval replacement pad designed for Beats Studio 2.0. I have used these a few other headphone projects, and I like them a lot. They're the most compact oval pad that I've ever found that is truly over ear. While the Beats pad isn't as generously sized as larger pads (like HM5), it has exactly enough room to fit my ear fully inside (YMMV depending on your ear size). It's a bit thicker than stock, which provided me enough room so that my ears didn't rub on the ceramic tweeter (which was worth its weight in gold).

If you want to know how well this pad would fit with your ears, simply go anywhere that sells Beats (Apple store, WalMart, Best Buy, Target, etc) and try on a pair of Beats Studio 2.0 (wired or wireless). You can also have someone measure the H x W of your ears for you.

The Beats pads are available in multiple colors and materials (including protein leather and velour). I got black protein leather, and paid $15.

Here's how the size compares to stock:

• Stock pad - Round, OD (80mm), ID (45mm), Thickness (15mm)
• Beats Studio 2.0 pad - Oval, OD (90mm H x 80mm W), ID (55mm H x 40mm W), Thickness (20mm)

Here's the 2 pads side-by-side so you can visualize the difference:

Spoiler

The Beats pads do require the removal of the stock pad from its plastic mounting ring. Harvesting the plastic mounting rings require destroying the stock pads, so you should consider the stock pads as 'sacrificial'.

However, if your stock pads are worn out beyond saving (as all of our pads will be at some point down the road), this is no big deal. Also, since my ears rubbed the tweeter due to it's poor depth and small ID, I was perfectly fine sacrificing my stock pads (as the result was a usable and comfortable solution).

Perhaps someone can/will come up with a 3D printed mounting ring at some point (maybe even me) so the stock pad/mounting ring doesn't have to be touched at all.

1. Anyways, you start by removing the stock pads from the headphones (by prying w/a credit card, dull non-serrated butter knife, spudger tool, etc).

Spoiler

2. Once you have the stock pads removed, you separate the stock pad from the plastic mounting ring by simply peeling it off:

Spoiler

3. With the stock pad separated from the plastic mounting ring, remove any adhesive residue by rubbing the residue with your thumb in a continuous rolling motion. Here's what you're left with.

Spoiler

4. Before you mount your Beats pad, remove the thin layer of foam from the back of the pad (if you don't, the sound will be veiled). Just tear/peel off the foam layer off and discard. The Beats pad will still have the layer of fabric in the center (like the stock pad where the L and R is written). You can see the foam layer here (the color of the foam can vary):

Spoiler

5. The Studio 2.0 pads come with 3M adhesive pre-attached (the good quality pads at least; the cheap ones have generic adhesive that adheres poorly). You simply peel the backing paper off, center the pad using the 4 clips as a guide (ie like 'cross hairs'), and stick the Beats pad to the face of the plastic trim ring (pressing firmly/evenly to ensure complete adhesion):

Spoiler

6. Now snap the pad back onto the headphone and you're done. Make sure you line up the 2 alignment pins on the plastic trim ring (shown in the top photo) with the 2 alignment holes in the face of the earcup (shown in the bottom photo):

Spoiler

Here's the finished product:

Spoiler

Because the internal volume of the Beats pads is very close to the stock pad, there is virtually no change in sound (other than a slightly wider soundstage). They are now truly over-ears (at least my ears), with no rubbing on the tweeter - success!

I feel this solution supersedes my previous pad replacements I posted a number of pages back. However, if your ears are just too large for the Beats pads, the method I laid out to use the HM5 pads (and example) is still a valid option.

Finally, replacing the Beats pads (when they eventually wear out) couldn't be easier. Just pull them off, pitch them, and peel and stick on a new set.

Followed your instructions to the last word and managed to change the pads to the Misodiko beats studio 2.0 ones. Indeed the comfort is way better and sound remains pretty much the same as with the stock. However my pads do not click on firmly. I can still pull them out fairly easily and I don’t hear a reassuring click whenever I mount them. Am I doing something wrong? Here’s a picture of my mounted pads. Everything else is as per your pics. Stuck on the pads well. And aligned the holes and clips well as well. Any advise?

 

[filthyweeb]

However my pads do not click on firmly. I can still pull them out fairly easily and I don’t hear a reassuring click whenever I mount them. Am I doing something wrong?

Have you found a solution for this?

 

[aceedburn]

Have you found a solution for this?

No, but I’ve been using them for a while now and they never gave me the impression of falling off or anything and the sound is great. So I guess that’s just how it is.

 

[filthyweeb]

Just ordered those they somehow ~100-120EUR in Europe and MSRP was 250? Red version seems impossible to find even on aliexpress and only UK store has it. I afraid that i really gonna struggle with comfort because i gonna use them for 6 hours+ everyday so i gonna swap pads asap and pray to god that drivers wont gonna die in couple weeks.

 

[theMUKe]

Just ordered those they somehow ~100-120EUR in Europe and MSRP was 250? Red version seems impossible to find even on aliexpress and only UK store has it. I afraid that i really gonna struggle with comfort because i gonna use them for 6 hours+ everyday so i gonna swap pads asap and pray to god that drivers wont gonna die in couple weeks.

Got them a while ago for around 80 Euros. But even for 120 Euros it’s a really good deal!

These are pretty bassy headphones but sound quality is still very good, especially if you run them on a decent and powerful source.

 

[Balmoral]

I noticed the same issue on mine (silver model). I tried to look into it but did not get very far:



After screwing everything together again I could not notice the deep humming sound again. Tested with same setup and same track.

Maybe some screws were slightly loose before… although I did not notice anything when unscrewing.

Other option could be that the glass was slightly deplaced, as indicated in the post before. But again, everything looked tight when I unscrewed.
So overall I’m not sure where that humming sound came from but at least it seems gone now.

Do you remember what size allen wrench you used to remove the cover to get to the "glass?" Thanks!

 

[johnjwall]

Do you remember what size allen wrench you used to remove the cover to get to the "glass?" Thanks!

Mine is a Torx (like a star not a 6 sided Allen), the T-5.

 

[theMUKe]

Do you remember what size allen wrench you used to remove the cover to get to the "glass?" Thanks!

Yes, you need Torx. T5 or even T4 work fine.