1MORE H1707 Triple-Driver Over Ear

[Pesado]

All these mods are very interesting and respect goes to all your efforts ,but when i tried the beat pads 2 mod ,with a 3D printed pad adapter which kept the originals intact,
i found great comfort but the sound was changed for me or at least my ears,so left them as they were for now.
I have made an extra pair of 3D printed adapters .black color for the Beatpads if anyone wants it i can send it free no problem,only ask for post cost.
See my previous posts.

Yeah, the sound changes and the result is not always good.

This must be the most sensitive pad rolling headphone ever, i've seen people throwing it away because new pads ruined the unique signature lol.

 

[mbwilson111]

Yeah, the sound changes and the result is not always good.

This must be the most sensitive pad rolling headphone ever, i've seen people throwing it away because new pads ruined the unique signature lol.

I am happy that I have never had any problem with comfort or sound using the original pads.

 

[hp4fun]

Pad journey continued

YMMV and you might disagree, but TL;DR

-- Leather pads are better than pleather, also better than suede ones
-- non-perforated pads are better than perforated. I like the angeled one for Fostex.
-- Bigger pads (e.g., for hifiman he series) might be better than smaller ones (e.g., HM5). However, bigger ones suffer from seal issue from behind.
-- Thinner pads works better than thicker ones. It sounds closer to original when you press closer to your ear
-- To seal the gap between the bigger pads and the smaller (original) plastic plate, I need something that is nice to both skin and plastic, flexible, non-permanent (for testing), fabric (for reflection) and easy cutting. Guess what? KT tapes for physiotherapy

 

[Pesado]

Pad journey continued

YMMV and you might disagree, but TL;DR

-- Leather pads are better than pleather, also better than suede ones
-- non-perforated pads are better than perforated. I like the angeled one for Fostex.
-- Bigger pads (e.g., for hifiman he series) might be better than smaller ones (e.g., HM5). However, bigger ones suffer from seal issue from behind.
-- Thinner pads works better than thicker ones. It sounds closer to original when you press closer to your ear
-- To seal the gap between the bigger pads and the smaller (original) plastic plate, I need something that is nice to both skin and plastic, flexible, non-permanent (for testing), fabric (for reflection) and easy cutting. Guess what? KT tapes for physiotherapy

After countless pad rolling i found that perforated leather pads are the closest to keeping the original sound signature for those who choose to modify them.

In fact the original ones have holes pointed towards the ceramic tweeter, i think that makes all the difference.

 

[hp4fun]

After countless pad rolling i found that perforated leather pads are the closest to keeping the original sound signature for those who choose to modify them.

In fact the original ones have holes pointed towards the ceramic tweeter, i think that makes all the difference.

I do have the one that have inner perforated. The sound is a bit bright than I thought but that could due to 1) thickness, and 2) seal.

 

[Pesado]

I do have the one that have inner perforated. The sound is a bit bright than I thought but that could due to 1) thickness, and 2) seal.

Another finding was that they work better with the driver close to the ear, i think that's why they opted for a thin pad and an on-ear design.

This headphone is unique, don't know why they discontinued it.

 

[hp4fun]

After trying a few pads, I found this the best

https://www.ebay.com/itm/403664349379

1. real leather is better as pleather is a bit hollow and fabric is a bit dry imho
2. Smaller and shallower than full size (hifiman / zmf size)
3. Can fit to the original ring (of course, you need to peel off the og pads). which goes to next point
4. more close than the full size pads and closer to the og closed back sound
5. cheap

 

[waynes world]

This is OT, but I'm just throwing this out there for any 1more fans that love their H1707's as much as I do, and who are looking for a portable bluetooth solution.

In addition to the H1707's, I also have a few bluetooth headphones which have "okay" SQ, but I've been wanting a pair that uses LDAC and has better SQ, and which doesn't cost an arm and a leg. I may have found them!

I got this email from 1more regarding their Sonoflow bluetooth headphones:
https://mailchi.mp/1moreusa/the-highly-acclaimed-1more-sonoflow-is-still-on-hot-sale?e=4124436532

70 hours of playback, apparently very good SQ, supports LDAC, and good noise cancelling (that wasn't really an important feature for me, but it's great to have if it works). The reviews seem pretty positive to me, including the video review from Flossy Carter (man, he likes them lol), and the price seems great.

They are on sale right now, and I was pleasantly surprised that on amazon.ca they ended up costing me only CDN$ 104.99 +taxes. Us Canadians typically get gouged with exchange and duties, so this seems like a pretty good deal to me, even if they are half as good as I'm hoping they are.

I'll let you know what I think of them when I get them

 

[alphaman]

Own the silver.
No mods or cable upgrade. All OEM.

My main negative impression is that they sound quite COMPRESSED. Some may perceive this positively as "tight" bass.
I hear the compression at all volumes, not just high vols.
Hmmm ... not sure ...I haven't gone thru this thread and various mods. There should be some way to have BOTH tightness and dynamics.
Anyone experiment, focusing on reducing "compression."

 

[alphaman]

I bought this last year, no complaints

￡19.81 | LN006456 XLR Balanced 8 Core OCC Silver Mixed Headphone Cable For Oppo PM-1 PM-2 Planar Magnetic 1MORE H1707 Sonus Faber Pryma
https://a.aliexpress.com/_u7yX4p

That cable LOOKs interesting but going to Ali page you linked to reveals the two ends that plug into both drivers are MONO:

Is that what you have?

I assume they work w/o mods?

REASON FOR ASKING: The OEM cables terminate on the driver end as 3-terminal 2.5mm (TRS) . As shown here:

Also, for the amp end, why did you select TRRS (4-terminal)? You don't need it (Mic input).

 

[dstarr3]

That cable LOOKs interesting but going to Ali page you linked to reveals the two ends that plug into both drivers are MONO:

Is that what you have?

I assume they work w/o mods?

REASON FOR ASKING: The OEM cables terminate on the driver end as 3-terminal 2.5mm (TRS) . As shown here:

Also, for the amp end, why did you select TRRS (4-terminal)? You don't need it (Mic input).

The earcup connectors are wired such that Tip is +, Sleeve is -, and Ring is unused. So using a mono connector on each side would be fine and is very common on other headphones

 

[alphaman]

The earcup connectors are wired such that Tip is +, Sleeve is -, and Ring is unused. So using a mono connector on each side would be fine and is very common on other headphones

Cool!
However: There is no MIC controller on the Ali cable So, what's the friggin' LOGIC in choosin' that 4-terminal jack on the amp end?
Other than some kind of proprietary use (double ground, etc).

 

[nraymond]

Cool!
However: There is no MIC controller on the Ali cable So, what's the friggin' LOGIC in choosin' that 4-terminal jack on the amp end?
Other than some kind of proprietary use (double ground, etc).

Looks like that could be a 2.5mm TRRS balanced connector on that cable, which is one of the standards for connecting to a balanced amplifier. You can adapt it to 4.4mm Pentaconn, 4-pin XLR, as well as the more common unbalanced 3.5mm and 6.35mm TRS connections.

 

[Jon995]

Cool!
However: There is no MIC controller on the Ali cable So, what's the friggin' LOGIC in choosin' that 4-terminal jack on the amp end?
Other than some kind of proprietary use (double ground, etc).

That cable LOOKs interesting but going to Ali page you linked to reveals the two ends that plug into both drivers are MONO:

Is that what you have?

I assume they work w/o mods?

REASON FOR ASKING: The OEM cables terminate on the driver end as 3-terminal 2.5mm (TRS) . As shown here:

Also, for the amp end, why did you select TRRS (4-terminal)? You don't need it (Mic input).

Yes, it's a 2.5mm balanced, the mono plugs on the headphone cups end work, I wondered if they would for months before I found that listing stating the cable was compatible with the 1more. The cable is great, I think it's better to buy balanced cables and use an adapter when 3.5mm SE is needed.

 

[alphaman]

" 2.5mm balanced" ....
We assume you mean 2.5 mm (mono) on the ear-cup end.
And 3.5mm ( TRRS) on the amp end.
That's what the photo shows.
Having the amp side termination as PRACTICAL as possible is the best option. That is, the option that does not have you plugging it into various devices that prompt you to use an adapter. There simply is no substitute for an original (soldered) jack. And that jack should be as LARGE as you can tolerate. Optimal: 6.4mm (1/4 inch), because that much surface-contact area is ideal. So forget 3.5mm being default for anything other than IEMs or very small 'phones (like Koss porta pros).

BTW: Ali does have some decent, cheap mono 2.5mm mono jacks that should fit nicely into the 1More if you should DIY some cables. The diameter of the OEM mono jack is 9mm.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832863070404.html